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The Elusive Beast:
Ice Climbing in Washington State
By
Jason D. Martin
(702)262-0058 or (206)5271741
Email:
2103 N. 62nd
Seattle, WA 98103
The Elusive Beast:
Ice Climbing
In
Washington State
Table of Contents:
Introduction
Mt. Baker
Ski Area
Table Mountain
Highway 20
Mazama
North Eastern Washington
Mountain Loop Highway
Index
Stevens Pass
Leavenworth
Palisades
Lake Lenore/Soap Lake
Moses Coulee
Banks Lake
Snoqualmie Pass
Ellensburg
Vantage
Yakima
Southern Cascades
White Pass
Mt. Rainer National Park
Bluewood
Bibliography
An introduction to the draft you are about to Read:
What you have before you is half a guidebook. Think of it more as the notes that will eventually become a real guidebook. There are holes all over the place within this work. Part of the reason I am sending it out is for you to help me fill these holes. If you have information concerning the spots where beta is sketchy, please contact me at: . If you know of places that I’ve missed, please let me know.
Now, why else am I releasing this info ahead of time?
As I continued to develop this work and to see people struggling on internet pages with the locations of climbs, I became guilty. Yep, that’s what happens when your parents put you through eleven years of Catholic School. So as a result, I am offering this information to you the climbing community. I hope it will help in your quest to find climbable ice.
Introduction
Upon beginning the compilation of this book I was absolutely lost. There is actually a great deal of ice in Washington State, but very little information available as to where things are and how to get to them. Because nothing of the sort existed, I decided to do my best to create a comprehensive guide of ice climbing in Washington State. By no means is this book complete. There is a long way to go and any beta that people can provide will be helpful in the next edition.
However, what we do have here is a good start. In this book you will find information on many waterfall climbing routes as well as a few notable alpine ice routes. Included is comprehensive information on climbs that are not listed in other popular guide books of the area. We mention climbs that can be found in other books, but don’t get too lengthy in our exploration of that material. And lastly we include information about possible ice climbs that may or may not have yet been completed.
Ice climbing in Washington State is indeed an elusive beast. By creating this guide we hope to help climbers capture and climb that beast.
RATINGS:
Rating a frozen waterfall is a difficult thing to do in a guide-book. The problem is that routes go through fazes. For example Pan Dome Falls at Mt. Baker Ski area is generally considered to be a WI 3+. However, to get to that rating which was established when the falls were in good condition, the route must go through a series of stages. Early in the season it might be a WI 5, then as it gets colder and there is a bit of freeze/thaw the difficulty rating will drop to a WI 4, then finally to a WI 3+. Be aware of this system of stages before getting on something that is too difficult.
In this guide book one can expect the ratings to reflect the following:
WI 1:An easy ice slope that doesn’t exceed sixty degrees.
WI 2:Relatively easy ice with good protection. The route is generally sustained
in the sixty to seventy degree range. There may be a few more technical
moves.
WI 3:These routes tend to be sustained up to eighty degrees. Protection is
usually not too bad and there are generally decent rests. Be aware that
there may be short sections of vertical ice.
WI 4:At this grade, one can expect sustained seventy-five to eighty-five degree
climbing. More often than not the pro is not as good as that of the lower
grades, it’s usually there, but may be awkward or thin. This is usually
where the climbing really starts to become a bit challenging.
WI 5:These climbs require commitment and skill, they are the 5.11s of the ice
climbing world. Often the ice is not very good and protection is hard to
find. Usually these routes are vertical and strenuous.
WI 6: These routes tend to be extremely technical climbs with vertical and even
overhung ice. The protection is difficult to find and perhaps even more difficult to place. There are usually few rests and thin, often questionable ice.
Beyond the Water Ice ratings listed above, this guide will use the Yosemite Decimal System to indicate rock grades when needed. In some cases, aid climbing grades will also be indicated on some of the more extreme routes.
Within the context of this guide there are a few interesting alpine ice routes that will be mentioned. With them, the alpine grade system will also be indicated. The Alpine Grade system indicates the overall grade, difficulty and time required to complete a route. Roman Numerals I-VI suggest these. Obviously, the lower the number the shorter the time the route takes. Once one reaches grades IV-VI it becomes difficult for any but the most proficient climbers to complete the route in a single day.
On some of the more dubious climbs, an “R” or an “X” might be indicated. Here “R” suggests that one may have some long run-outs and could be seriously injured or killed in the event of a fall. “X” indicates a likelihood of death should a climber come off on lead.
AVALANCHE DANGER:
In this guide you will find avalanche danger broken into three categories. They are as follows:
Minimal:This means that there is little to no avalanche danger on the
approach or above these types of climbs.
Moderate:There is avalanche danger on either the approach or above these
routes. Be wary and take the appropriate precautions.
Serious:Don’t do this climb unless the snow conditions are solid. Turn
back at the first sign of avalanche danger. People have been killed
approaching some of the routes that are listed as serious in
this guide.
Though a route may be in the “Minimal” category, that doesn’t mean that it is completely safe. There still may be a bit of avalanche potential. One should always assess the situation before approaching a climb on dangerous slopes or climbing a route that may have avalanche potential above.
ICE CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS:
An extremely strong climber has been quoted as saying that the Pacific Northwest has a higher ice climbing injury rate than any other place because of our conditions. On a day where people in Banff would stay home and watch TV, people in Washington will go climbing. This is partly because of the fact that in Banff they know that the conditions and the ice will eventually get better. In Washington that is not always the case.
We drive for three or four hours to find that the route we wanted to do is in semi-decent shape. We decide to do it anyway. It’s always better to cut the loss and look around for something in better shape to do. A three-hour drive that was for nothing is always better than a three-hour drive that kills your partner and puts you in a wheelchair.
Ice Climbing is a dangerous sport. You should do everything in your power to be sure that you have received the appropriate training to attack these climbs. Beyond the training one must use common sense. Wear a helmet. (I’d be dead were I not wearing a helmet on Shannon Falls in Squamish when a block sheered off above and hit our party.) Pay attention to avalanche conditions. And lastly, listen to your gut. If you don’t feel comfortable, don’t do it. Arrogance will get you killed.
WEATHER PATTERNS AND COMMON SENSE:
A good way to judge whether or not a route is in is to pay attention to the weather in your hometown. If it’s been in the upper fifties in Seattle for the last couple of weeks, one can usually assume that all but the highest routes are NOT in shape. However, if it’s been freezing in Seattle for two weeks or perhaps has been tipping the scales at the upper thirties, it might be a good time to go over to Eastern Washington to see what’s in.
Ice located near Mt. Baker or near Leavenworth tends to hang around a bit longer. Ice near Banks Lake or Vantage is a more difficult proposition. Pay very close attention to the conditions before spending hours upon hours driving to some location that has had weather in the forties for the last three weeks.
We as an ice climbing community have a wonderful resource in the Internet. After you go out climbing log on to Rock and Ice Online’s Ice Conditions page or onto the Cascade Climbers page. Publish what you found when you were climbing on these pages. Before you go out climbing, see what other people have found. Use this tool. It is the only way that you’ll be able to tick any of the more elusive climbs in this state.
Throughout this guide, it will be indicated if a route tends to have a season that is a bit longer or if a route tends to come in early.
EMERGENCY:
In case of emergency, call 911.
NEW ROUTE INFORMATION:
Please send any information about new routes or routes that you know about that are not listed via e-mail to the following address:
Mt. Baker
MT. BAKER SKI AREA:
There is a great deal of false security in climbing at a ski area. Though it would be easier to get an injured person out, don’t take unnecessary risks. I have personally heard more ice climbing horror stories about Pan Dome Falls than any other ice route in Washington.
To approach the ski area, drive the Mount Baker Highway (WA 542) from Bellingham East to the Ski Area. From Bellingham, the drive will take about an hour and a half.
Pan Dome Falls – WI 3+
Length: 160 Feet
Avalanche Danger: Minimal
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: Park in the upper parking lot. Follow the Austin Pass Road until able to cut across slopes toward the climb. The approach takes about ten minutes.
Route: Follow the low angled ice in the center of the falls up to the steep pillar above. Be aware that this upper portion is steep and sustained at about eighty degrees. Often the upper section is in solid WI 4 conditions. One may walk around to the left in order to set up a toprope. Be careful as you approach the top of the falls as it is steep and slippery.
Descent: Rappel the Route
- To the right of Pan Dome there are some interesting climbs. There is generally a short steep pillar just right of the falls that goes at about WI 4 and usually two lower angled routes, often covered by snow, that go at WI 2.
TABLE MOUNTAIN:
Death Picnic – WI 5
Length: Two Pitches
Avalanche Danger: Serious
First Ascent: Mark Houston and Alan Kerney, December 1986
Approach:
Route: (1987 American Alpine Journal Pg. 166)
Descent: Rappel the Route
- Glacier Creek Road just beyond the town of Glacier has seen reports of ice.
- On the Heliotrope Ridge Trail that one uses to access Mt. Baker, there is a short but interesting fall high on the trail. The approach, however, would be very difficult as the approach road (Glacier Creek Road found just beyond the town of Glacier) is unplowed. If you can get up it, park at the trailhead at 3700 feet. The forty foot route can be found a solid two plus hours up the trail.
- Rainbow Falls
From Highway 20 drive the Baker Lake Road to .2 miles beyond the Boulder Creek Bridge. Make a left turn onto Marten Lake Road (#1130). Follow this road for approximately nine and a half miles to a clearcut at 3600 feet. Hike, ski, or snowshoe North to Rainbow Falls. Beware of severe avalanche activity above the falls.
North Cascades Highway
- “Pour Les Enfants Avec Autos” – WI 5+ R This route can be found just past the road cut in Washington Pass. There is a spectacular picture in the 1999/2000 Feathered Friends Catalog. The first ascent was by Andreas Schmidt and Tim Matsui. Other information about the route is currently sketchy at best.
- Immediately after the North Cascade Highway has been plowed and opened, there is tends to be a large amount of ice just off the road along a good portion of the highway. The plowing usually takes place in April or May.
Mazama
Rumor has it that Mazama has a nice long solid ice season. Though the information about particular routes remains scarce. Not only that, but Mazama can be a difficult and remote place to get to in the winter. Usually Highway Twenty closes in late November. As a result the drive from the West Side of the mountains becomes incredibly long.
There are about a dozen and a half routes that come in throughout the Mazama area each season. However, only a few of these routes are done on a regular basis. This is all changing as the new wave mixed scene has an effect on the small community of local climbers. Mazama residents, Steve House and Shawn McCabe are currently putting up a slew of new routes all over the area.
To approach Mazama after the North Cascades Highway is closed drive Highway Two to Leavenworth. It is approximately one-hundred and twenty-nine miles from Leavenworth to Mazama. From Leavenworth continue to follow Highway Two for approximately 19.4 miles. Turn left ontoUS-97 and follow this through Entiat and Chelan for approximately fifty-three miles. Turn left (North) onto WA-153 and follow this for approximately 55.3 miles. At 30.8 miles WA-153 will join with Highway Twenty.
If you wish to avoid cold camping after a good hard day on the ice, there are a few Hotels and Motels in the Winthrop area.
The highway is generally closed at the Early Winters Campground just a few miles West of Mazama throughout a good portion of the winter.
Goat Wall
Goat’s Beard – WI 6+
Length: 13 Pitches
Avalanche Potential:
First Ascent: Tom Kimbrell?
Approach: Directly to the left of this, Bryan Burdo bolted a nice long sport climb.
Route:
Descent:
Mixed Route to the Left of Goat’s Beard put up by locals.
Gate Creek – WI 3
Length:
Avalanche Potential:
First Ascent:
Approach:
Route:
Descent:
- Foggy Dew Falls
From Pateros on the Columbia River, drive the Methow Valley Highway (Highway 153) seventeen miles toward Twisp. You will cross the river six times before turning off on Road #4340. The road includes a sign that says “Foggy Dew.” Some maps call this road the “Gold Creek Loop Road.” At the five mile mark on this road, turn left onto Road #4340. In 3.7 miles the end of this road and the trailhead proper will be reached at an elevation of 3490 feet. Follow Foggy Dew Creek for two and a half miles until one reaches the base of the falls.
North Eastern Washington
- There are reports of ice in the Northeastern most corner of the state. However, at this time information is scarce at best.
Mountain Loop Highway
NOTABLE ALPINE CLIMBS IN THE AREA:
North Face of Big Four Mountain, Spindrift Couloir
Grade: IV+ 5.9 WI 5 Mixed
First Ascent: Bart Paull and Doug Littauer, March 1996
Perhaps one of the boldest alpine climbs to be done in the Cascades in recent years, the Spindrift Couloir’s thin mixed ice up to 95 degrees is definitely not for the squeamish. Perhaps the most amazing part about the route is not the difficulty but the climbing prodigies that put it up. Believe it or not, this route was completed by two teenagers, one of which was not yet old enough to drive. Not only that, but they did the route in a single one day push and didn’t even rope up until they were half way up this four thousand foot face!
Avalanche Danger: Serious
Approach: Drive to the end of the Mountain Loop Highway (State Route 530), or at least as far as it is plowed. Usually, it is plowed to within three miles of the ice caves on Big Four Mountain. Park in the Sno-Park facility on the North side of the highway. Hike, snowshoe, or ski the remaining two miles up the road alongside the Stillaguamish river to the Big Four Picnic Area. From the Picnic Area continue for another mile on the Big Four Ice Caves trail to the base of the mountain. Usually this trail is well tracked by snow-shoers. The route ascends the rightmost couloir, just left of the North Face Bowl.
Route: From the base one can see three steps to the summit. Here, the steps will be the means to explain the route. Cross the moat beneath the rightmost couloir (the Spindrift Couloir) and ascend thin seventy-five degree ice with a few 5.8 moves thrown in for good measure to easier ground above. Climb easy snow fields to the couloir proper. Climb two pitches of steep (WI 3 5.7) mixed ice to the top of the first step. Ascend fifty degree snow for another two pitches to the base of a steep mixed section. Climb one full pitch of 5.8 WI 5 to easier ground above. The next two pitches should be in the WI 3 range and put a climber on top of the second step. Following this there will be approximately three pitches of steep snow until one reaches the base of the third pitch. This is where things get really difficult. Climb the third mixed step at 5.9 WI 5. The top of this pitch exceeds 95 degrees! From the top of the third pitch climb seventy degree ice and up to sixty-five degree mixed ground to the summit cornices. Tunnel through a cornice and you’ll be on top! The first ascent party descended from here. If you would like to attain the true summit, ascend the ridge line to your left across dangerous cornices.