A Method To Introduce Unfamiliar Cats Or Re-Acclimate Feuding Cats After A Period Of Separation:

Counter-conditioning (CC), Desensitization (DS):


Counter Conditioning CC and Desensitization (DS) is not a quick or easy process and it is not for every cat caregiver. Many cat caregivers chose to manage the problem of frightened or feuding cats through physical separation of the cats into different zones of the home on a permanent basis.

However for cat caregivers who want to do their best to blend their cats peacefully together, it is necessary to do the work required for CC and DS to both change the emotions of the cats as well as change their behavioral responses. This requires caregiver commitment because it takes time, effort and patience to do CC and DS effectively.

So the cornerstone of a behavior modification program is to change the cats’ perception of each other.To do this, we want the cats to be exposed to one another in a very minimal and gradual manner so that they do not becomeoverwhelmed, anxious or frightened (desensitization). We also want them to learn to associate the other cat being around with very positive things (counter-conditioning).If this is done successfully,the cats’ underlying emotional feelings about each other will change and with that their motivation for choosing behavior changes and soon more desirable behavioral interactions will follow.

Punishment or aversive techniques (such as squirt bottles) and even verbal reprimands must be avoided. Anything aversive will create a negative emotional response and stop the process of peaceful introductions and cohabitation.

Ability to recognize and read all types of feline body language will be crucial to performing the gradual steps of CC and DS successfully. Cat caregivers need to recognize stressed feline body language to know when to stop and give their cats more distance and time. They also need to recognize relaxed cat body language to know when the cats are ready to progress to the next step of the DS & CC program. Caregivers should definitely become fluent in reading cat body language before starting this process.

Here are some resources to learn how cats communicate with their bodies:

Feline Quick Fun Fact:A cat's tail held high means happiness. A twitching tail is a warning sign, and a tail tucked in close to the body is a sure sign of insecurity.
Click below for Feline Body Language resources:

  • Cat Body Postures
  • Feline Illustrated Language Glossary
  • Catster Cat Body Language
  • Conscious Cat Feline Body Language
  • Cat Signaling: Learn the Behavior Dance
  • Watching the cues will help unlock the clues to feline communication
  • Fear Aggression and Body Language in Cats Article by Dr. Seksel
  • What is My Cat Saying? Order the ultimate DVD reference at this link! Highly recommended!

To make this a gradual process, we start by introducing by scent rather than by sight at the beginning. The way to do this is to have the cats interact with things they each enjoy on either side of a closed door.

Food is the most powerful motivator and emotion changer in the animal world so start by feeding the cats on opposite side of the door. Cats who a fed multiple small meals throughout the day will be much better able to be successful with this process than cats who have food left out free choice all of the time.

Start with the food dishes several feet from the door, and move farther away if a hungry cat will not eat by the door. Find a starting point distance were both cats are willing to eat. You can also provide other things your cat enjoys on each side of the door such as toys, comfy cat beds and scratching posts. Plugging in a Feliway Multicat Diffuser near the introduction area is another way to make the area a positive and friendly meeting place.
View: Multicat Study Participant Testimonial Videos


The main focus of a CC/DS exercise is to bring the cats together peacefully by creating a positive associations and gradual slow introductions done to keep the cats BELOW their threshold of threat and aggression.

  • The goal is to slowly bring the cats together without any aggressive behaviors (growling, hissing, chasing, staring, swatting etc.)
  • Introductions MUST be done SLOWLY, using highly palatable food to facilitate calm, non-anxious behavior (counterconditioning).
  • The cats need to be far enough apart so that both are relaxed and only moved toward each other in tiny steps that they can tolerate without reaction (desensitization).
  • If reactions such as hissing, tail thrashing, hair on the back raised, ears back, growling etc. are seen that is an indication of moving too fast. Stop the interaction and let the cats calm. The next time you try the exercise start at a farther distance.
  • A safe first step is to start feeding delectable food treats and/or their meals on opposite sides of a closed door so visual stimulation is blocked.


Introducing by scent across a closed door

  • Eventually the door can be opened a crack and finally fully opened with the cats at a distance far enough apart where they will not react while in visual view of each other.
  • Gradually the distance is decreased until they can continue to calmly eat in the presence of each other at a reasonably close distance.
  • The key to success is to not push ahead to quickly. If you do go to fast, go back to below the last successful distance and again move forward but more slowly.

Another way or another step could be to use a baby gate across the door with a covered sheet or towel over it which can be raised just an inch at a time to gradual increase the visual introduction in a manner similar to the cracked door opening.

  • The next step would be to have both the cats together in one large room.
  • For safety, it is recommended to have each cat wearing a harness when first brought together into the same room.
  • Alternatively, one cat can be in a large carrier with food treats and the other cat is loose with caregiver supervision.
  • Positions in and out of the carrier can be swapped in subsequent session.
  • The caregiver’s role is to keep the cats at far enough distance that neither cat reacts with hissing or body language or fear or aggression.
  • Again it can help to do this work when the cats are hungry and before meal time.
  • Each cat is then offered an absolutely delectable and irresistible food treat/meal that they will eat.
  • If either cat will not eat, then they are still too anxious and too close together and should be moved further apart.
  • If the cats still will not eat they should be separated and try again when the next feeding is due.
  • If the cats do eat, they are allowed to remain together until finished eating and then separated again.
  • The next feeding is at the same distance.
  • If things go well with this feeding, the next time the dishes can be moved closer, but only by about 6 inches.
  • If the cats are becoming comfortable being in the room together, they can remain leashed or confined in the room at opposite ends and allowed to groom post feeding, and then separated again. Caregivers should remain in the room to observe behavior.
  • Two feedings where no aggressive or anxious behaviors are expressed are done at the same distance before the bowls are moved closer together.
  • It is so important NOT TO RUSH this process.
  • If the cats return to aggressive behaviors (hissing, growling, staring) the program must go back to a level where there is no such response.
  • Moving too fast makes resolution much more difficult and time consuming. Think SLOW is FAST!
  • During this process the cats are kept separate except during the supervised introduction and feeding sessions.

Here is a simple game to try to get you started with counter conditioning:

  • Create a toy the spans both sides of a closed door.
  • This can be like a rope like tug toy with a cat like toy on the end.
  • Or you can have a cat on each side with a toy that is linked to the other toy with a string.
  • When a gate is across or if the door is closer, if one cat plays with the toy, the other toy will move stimulating play with the other cat.
  • If a game gets started, hopefully the cats can experience something fun together while still being fully separated.

Video Examples: These videos illustrate what this handout has been discussing. Words sometimes cannot express what the eyes can see. Watching these videos may help solidify the techniques in your mind.

  • Here is a short video to watch that explains some CC/DS examples.
  • Video: Celebrity Cat Behaviorist Jackson Galaxy Describes how to introduce cats

Some more of our favorite Cat Introduction Resources are below

  • How to Introduce a Second Cat by Pam Johnson Bennett
  • Fighting Cats Leave Family Frazzled
  • Cat to Cat Introductions
  • Cat-Aggression-Toward-Other-Cats
  • To learn more about Cat Behavior, an excellent website to follow is
    Pam Johnson Bennett's Cat Behavior Associates.
  • Also books on feline behavior from Pam Johnson Bennett are excellent.