Yankee Pot Roast

Yankee Pot Roast

By Charlie Burke

The warm weather this week has us thinking of lighter fare with asparagus and spring greens soon to be arriving. Our rhubarb is up and the first of the peas were planted this week, but we are sure to have a spell of cold weather before spring is truly here, time when a warming dish is welcome. It occurred to me that after nearly two years of writing recipes forThe Heart of New England, onefor old fashioned Yankee Pot Roast was over due.

As with any popular dish, there is no single“correct” recipe, and we each remember our family’s recipe and consider it the best. Common to all is the combination or braising and roasting at moderate heat which slowly tenderizes less expensive cuts of meat. True to Yankee practicality, vegetables appearing in the recipe depend upon what is available and economical, most commonly onions, potatoes and carrots, but turnips, parsnips and even celeriac are not out of place. My mother always included mushrooms, so I consider them essential and include them in my recipe.

I’ve mentioned in other recipes that acidity heightens flavor, and most stews and casseroles contain some acidity, usually provided by wine in European cooking. Wine was certainly not a staple in New England kitchens until recently and never, I am sure, found its way into my mother’s cast iron Dutch oven. In this recipe, tomato paste fills this need and is an ingredient commonly found in New England pantries in the last century.

Economical cuts of meat are actually essential to this slow cooking; the connective tissue breaks down leaving moist and tender pieces which are full of flavor. I prefer bone-in chuck roast and cook it whole. Small pieces of “stew beef” frequently are trimmings from several cuts, some of which are too lean to be cooked this way, and the larger piece better maintains its moistness.

Follow the basics of this recipe, adding your favorite herbs or vegetables. I use garlic, one departure from my mom’s recipe; we grow a few thousand heads every year, so I think she’d understand. Chopped onion, celery and carrot are used at the beginning for flavor; add your choice of vegetables to be served with the meat for the final 40 – 60 minutes of cooking.

Six generous servings:

1 bone – in piece of chuck roast, 4- 5 pounds, trimmed of excess fat

Sea salt or kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Vegetable oil, such as canola

4-5 cloves garlic, sliced

1 large carrot, chopped

1 onion, chopped

1 celery stalk, chopped

2 teaspoons dried thyme or 6 sprigs fresh

2 bay leaves

3 tablespoons flour

3 ½ cups water or half chicken stock, half water. Do not use beef stock.

2 tablespoons tomato paste (I now use imported Italian paste in tubes which have a long shelf life and are of excellent quality)

8 – 10 small onions

5 carrots in 1 -2 inch pieces

1 pound red potatoes or larger white potatoes in chunks

1 pound large mushrooms, quartered

Over high heat, pour sufficient oil to cover the bottom of a large Dutch oven or other large heavy pot (we use a large French enameled iron pot), generously salt and pepper both sides of the roast and sear meat until well browned on both sides. Remove meat and pour off oil. Return pot to medium heat and add chopped carrot, celery, onion and the garlic. Cook stirring, adding a small amount of oil if necessary, until softened but not browned. Sprinkle flour over vegetables and stir for 2-3 minutes. Return meat, adding water, tomato paste and herbs.

Bring to a simmer on top of the stove, cover (use aluminum foil under cover if it does not fit tightly). Place into preheated 325 degree oven and cook for 2 hours. Check at 1 hour and turn meat if it is not covered by liquid; add additional water if liquid is too thick – it should be the consistency of thin gravy.

At 2 – 2 ¼ hours, add remaining vegetables; the time varies according to size. Cook for a total of 3 hours. If the vegetables are not quite cooked, cover and let sit – cooking will continue using retained heat. Check for seasoning, adding salt or pepper to taste.

Skim excess fat from the liquid, cut meat into serving size pieces, arrange on a heated platter and surround with vegetables. Moisten with some of the liquid, pass the remainder at the table and enjoy a true New England tradition.