NEHRU ARTS AND SCIENCE COLLEGE
COIMBATORE
NEHRU ARTS AND SCIENCE COLLEGE
COIMBATORE
DEPARTMENT OF
COSTUME DESIGN AND FASHION
SUBJECT: GARMENT
QUALITY COST AND CONTROL
STUDY MATERIAL
SYLLABUS
UNIT-I
Definition and scope of quality control – establishing merchandising standards – establishing raw material quality quality control specifications – quality control raw material.
UNIT-II
Establishing processing quality specification – training quality control personnel – the quality standard control – quality control inspection, procedures for processing – quality control of finished garments – quality control and government contacts – quality control for packaging, warehousing and shipping – statistical quality control. Sampling plans – wide quality standards.
UNIT-III
Function of production control – production analysis – quality specifications – qualitative specifications – scope of apparel manufacturing activity – coordinating departmental activities – distribution of document and records.
UNIT-IV
Type of control forms – basic production systems – principles for choosing a production a production system – evaluating production systems – flow process grids for production Control – scheduling calculation, graph methods, scheduling bundles of Varying amounts, mathematical formulas for scheduling – producing many styles simultaneously – producing many styles consecutively in one line.
UNIT-V
Functions of cost control, types of costs and expenses – apparel manufacturing cost categories – sales cost control, purchasing cost control, production cost control, administration cost control – cost ration policies – the manufacturing budget – cash flow controls – standard cost sheet, break – even charts.
DEPARTMENT OF COSTUME DESIGN AND FASHION
STUDY MATERIAL
COURSE : II-B.SC (CDF)
SEMESTER : IV
SUBJECT : GARMENT QUALITY & COST CONTROL
UNIT : 1
SYLLABUS
Definition and scope of quality control – establishing merchandising standards – establishing raw material quality,quality control specifications – quality control raw material.
AIMS AND OBJECTIVES OF QUALITY
In this unit we have discussed about the Quality meaning and definition, Quality control definition, scope of Quality control, establishing merchandising standards and establishing raw material quality. After going through this unit you will be able to
i) Describe the scope of Quality control
ii) List down the three aspect of quality
iii) Benefits of Quality control
iv) Write notes on merchandising standards
INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY
Quality has been with us since the down of Civilization, however, since after second world was it has been used more and more as a competitive weapon an competitive advantage.
Quality is unusually slippery and difficult to come to grips with and therefore, someone has said, “quality is something I know when I see it”. To some, quality defined is like “love” explained. Once the concept of quality is understood fundamentally at stops being slippery and becomes something which you can hold by the tail.
Quality means different things to different people. If we asked several people, “what is quality”, we may get answers line.
The best money can buy meeting a specification of conformance to specifications craftsmanship. The degree of excellence that an item possesses. No more than 1% defective lot
These responses, of course, depend on peoples’ perception of the value of a product (or) service under consideration and their expectation of performance, durability, reliability, etc of that product an service.
Quality can also mean meeting or exceeding customer expectations all the time. The key here is to know accurately customer expectations and a continuing basis because unless you know customer expectations how can you meet or exceed them. The expectations of quality and the ability to distinguish various quality characteristics also vary from one group of customers to another.
Quality escapes definition the term itself implies value. The nature of that value depends up on the purpose for which a garment is bought, pure silk satin is not hardwearing but Christmas sees a lot of means ( and other ladies) happy with its quality. Mostly it adds up to fitness for purpose, with visual appeal coming fairly high on the list of requirements, with a long weans life being more important in some cases and vital to most. It is viewed differently by the designer and the production executive and those aspects which are important to each are set our separately.
DEFINITION OF QUALITY
1) Quality is conformance to requirements (or) specifications (cross by 1979)
2) Quality is fitness for use (June 1974)
3) The quality of a garment is the reason that it is bought by the customer and comprises a set of quality characteristics’ which together make up its ‘fitness for purpose’. The key to profitable garment manufacture is to provide the best combination at the lowest cost, ‘The economic quality level’.
The costs of quality come from:
1 Style
2 Fabric and trimmings;
3 Make, including repairs and rejects;
4 Quality control function.
QUALITY DEFINITION
The fitness for purpose’ is very apt, because at serves as a warning that good quality is aimed at the altimeter customer, the person who buys and wears the clothes. Until recently, menswear appeared to be made more to impress other tailors than to please the customer. Some retail organizations still employ, more than my job’s worth’ buyers, whose concern is for conformance to specification, rather than for a better deal for the customer, A few loose threads may mean less than a lower price, when the buying decision is made.
Fitness for purpose comprises
1 quality of design,
2 quality of conformance
3 quality of performance
QUALITY OF DESIGN
Quality of design deals with the stringent conditions that the product or service must minimally possess in order to satisfy the requirements of the customer. It implies that the product or service must be signed to meet at least minimally the needs of the consumer.
QUALITY OF CONFORMANCE
Quality of conformance implies that the manufactured product or the service rendered must meet the standards selected in the design phase.
QUALITY OF PERFORMANCE
Quality of performance is concerned with the operation of the product when actually put to use or the service when performed and measures the degree to which it satisfies the consumer.
THE THREE ASPECTS OF QUALITY
DEFINITION OF QUALITY CONTROL
1 Quality control may generally be defined as a system that is used to maintain a desired level of quality in a product or service.
This task may be achieved through different measured such as:
· Planning
· Design
· Use of proper equipment and procedures
· Inspection
· Taking corrective action in a case a deviation is observed between the product, service, or process output and a specified standard.
· This general area may be divided into two main sub areas:
· Statistical Process Control involves the comparison of the output of a process or a service with a standard and the taking of remedial actions in case of a discrepancy between the two. It involves the determination of the ability of a process to produce a product that meets desired specifications or requirements.
· Acceptance Sampling Plans is a plan that determines the number of items to sample and the. acceptance criteria stipulated conditions
· Such as the risk of rejecting a good lot or accepting a bad lot.
Quality Assurance
The objective of the quality assurance function is to have a formal system that will continually survey the effectiveness of the quality philosophy of the company. All those planned or systematic actions necessary to provide confidence that a product or service will satisfy given needs.
Quality circle
Quality circle is typically an informal group of people, which may consist of operators, supervisors, managers, and so on, who get together to seek improved ways of making the product or delivering the service.
A quality circle tries to overcome barriers that may exist within the prevailing organizational structure so as to foster an open exchange of ideas.
The group members feel a sense of insolvent in the decision making process and develop a positive attitude toward creating a better product or service.
QUALITY SYSTEM
• Quality System: the collective plans, activities, and events that are provided to ensure that a product, process, or service will satisfy given needs.
• Generic guidelines for quality system ( ANSI/ASQC Standard Z-1.15 1979)
• Policy, planning, organization, and administration.
• Product design assurance, specification development, and control.
• Control of purchased materials and component parts.
• Production quality control.
• User contact and field performance.
• Corrective action.
• Employee selection, training, and motivation.
• Legal requirements - product liability and user safety.
• Sampling and other statistical techniques.
QUALITY IMPROVEMENT
Quality improvement is a never ending process, and efforts to reduce the variability of a process and reduce the production of nonconforming items should continue forever.
Whereas process control deals with identification and elimination of special causes that force a system to go out of control, in order to bring the process to a state of statistical control, quality improvement relates to the detection and elimination of common causes.
Quality control is the process of maintaining the merchandising values in the product from the designing phase to the delivery of the product to the purchaser. This process is composed of four basic functions:
(1) Formulating the acceptance. standards,
(2) formulating inspection procedures
(3) selecting inspection stations, and
(4) Establishing procedures for detecting and correcting causes of unacceptable quality. The fourth function is often delegated to personnel directly responsible for machine performance and personnel performance. In some sewing rooms, this function may be divided between the mechanic responsible for the maintenance of the machines and the supervisor responsible for methods. In small plants, both of these activities would be the responsibility of one individual.
The function of formulating acceptance standards consists of setting the acceptance and tolerance limits for the following factors:
(1) raw material standards
(2) design standards re: style factors, and
(3) Design standards re: durability. These acceptance standards, quality specifications must always be stated in terms of objective physical units used for measuring mass, time, and space relationships.
The function of formulating inspection procedures consists of selecting the most economical inspection plan. There are two basic approaches for quality inspection:
(1) 100% inspection: inspect every item produced ; and
(2) Statistical quality inspection: the approach developed by Dr. Walter A. Shewhart (inspects a percentage of a production lot and accept or reject the lot on the basis of the inspected percentage). The less the productive time and the greater the inspection time, the greater the need for statistical quality control plan. The greater the loss per unacceptable product, the greater the tendency that a / 100% inspection plan is the more economical of the two approaches. Regardless of which approach; is used, the principles governing inspection procedure per unit product are alike. Each inspection procedure presented to an inspector for examining finished stock, should contain the following:
(1) acceptance standards and tolerance limits per operation or job quality, (labor),
(2) acceptance standards and tolerance limits for raw material defects (raw material)
(3) methods for measuring the products with the unit of measurement in these acceptance standards and
(4) Acceptance standards arid tolerance limits for the, sum total of imperfection per finished product. For example, 20 operations: In a garment are inspected. What totality of defects in these 20 operations and the raw material makes the finished garment unacceptable?
The selection of inspection stations is governed by one fundamental axiom Inspection stations must be placed at those points in the production system where detection and correction yields the lowest total cost per product If it is exceedingly more expensive to detect and/or correct, unacceptable quality in the armhole operation of a sleeve of a lined garment before the lining is attached, then the armhole operation should be inspected before the lining is attached. Hence, inspection stations are placed preceding those jobs, after which detection and inspection costs rise sharply to the point of creating an appreciable increase in total inspection cost if the inspection stations were placed after the job instead of before the job.
In many plants, the size of the plant, the supervision load, and the type of products permits one to do away with inspection stations between processing jobs. There is only one final Sometimes even this is lacking because inspection may have been included in the final presser’s job or the packer’s job.- In such cases where there are no formal inspections among the processing jobs, the quality inspection is usually a part of the supervisory work load. The supervisor actually does intuitive statistical sampling without the benefit of statistical quality control formulas for accepting or rejecting a production lot. If in his (or her) rule-of-thumb estimation, the percentages of imperfections in the lot are too high, he will have the whole lot inspected. Inspection only by supervisors is inadvisable for situations in which the following holds true: (1) a high production per unit time, and (2) a large loss per unacceptable product which must be sold as a “second” or,” imperfect.”
QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT
The main function of the ‘Quality control Department’ is not to control quality but to provide a service which allows other people to make good clothes. Their main concern must be to do this at the minimum cost, balancing the expense of the department against the savings it makes possible in terms of reduced repairs and rejects. The raising of quality levels requires a major project which involves investment in machinery and training and it cannot be done quickly.
Today it is usually possible to reduce the lost of the quality control function and to improve the proportion of bad work leaving the factory.
Extra loses / SavingPlanning / Delays in delivery
Prevention / Repairs
Inspection / Remarks
Monitoring the effects / Repairs
Extra costs Planning
• definition of required quality characteristics and quality level by market research;
• establishment of revised quality control procedures;
• evaluation of sampling levels and selection of examination points;
• Calculation of appropriate manning levels.
Prevention
• specifications with tolerances;
• fabric and trimmings to specification;
• appropriate machinery in good condition;