Directions for Raglan Sleeve Coat

Directions for Raglan sleeve coat

The coat is re-drafted from the 1949 pattern. The front seam for the sleeve has been re-shaped to actually fit the sleeve. The original pattern had the front seam line being straight so the sleeve would not fit into it. The dress pattern has been drafted using the coat as a guideline.

The sleeves have a deep hem in them. On mine I took some of my dress fabric and sewed wrong sides together with the sleeve and made it turn to the outside for the look of a cuff.

Cut 1 back on the fold, cut 2 sleeves, 2 collars and 2 fronts.

Pin the sleeves matching front and back seams then sew the sleeve seams.

Sew the collar around the outside edge then turn right side out and stitch to neck.

Finish the neck with a piece of bias cut from the coat fabric.

Hem the front edges and turn them to the inside. They should be sewed at the top and the bottom to hold them down.

Turn under hem on sleeve end (¼”for now) you will turn up the hem to the inside after you have stitched the side seams.

Turn under hem at coat bottom and sew in place.

Pockets: fold pockets in half. Sew the ends then turn right side out. Place the pocket on the coat about 2” below the sleeve seam and 1 ½ inches in from the side seam facing to the bottom of the coat. Sew in place. Turn the pocket up and stitch down the sides.

The front has three snaps one at neck then the other two place one inch below the one above. You could also sew small buttons to the outside of the coat.

If you choose to line the coat modify the front pattern by cutting off the ½ inch on each side allowed for the turn under. You may also want to cut the bottom hem off so the coat hem will go over the lining. The sleeve lining will need to be cut have the hem cut off and that amount above it so the lining will meet the hem.

Raglan dress

Cut 1 front bodice on fold, cut 2 sleeves and 2 backs. Cut skirt 5” by 22”.

I did not line the dress. I tried that and the sleeves were too bulky. If you choose to line the dress keep this in mind.

Pin the sleeves to the front and back matching respective seams. Sew the sleeve seams.

Hem the bottom of the sleeve then sew the side seam.

Hem around the back and neck edges in one seam.

Make to rows of gathering stitch at the top of the skirt (there is ½ inch allowed for the seam line at the waist and the skirt.). Pull up gathers to fit the bodice of the skirt. Pin the gathers in place then sew the skirt to the bodice.

Sew up the back seam of the skirt leaving 2” open.

Turn up hem on bottom of skirt and sew in place.

Sew snaps at neck and waist.