Spring 2009 THEA 2373

COSTUME TECHNOLOGY I

Fall 2009 THEA 2373

MONDAY AND WEDNESDAY 8:00 TO 10:30 am.

IN WORTHAM ROOM 140

INSTRUCTOR: CLAREMARIE VERHEYEN #29625

OFFICE: ROOM "D" IN WT. 133 PHONE NUMBER 743-2918

“E”

COSTUME STUDIO SUPERVISOR: George Curry

OFFICE WT. 140 STUDIO PHONE NUMBER: 743-2108

OBJECTIVES:

1. encourage your ability to analyze, examine and solve costume complications that arise in performance situations.

2. familiarize you with the vocabulary, equipment, materials and skills useful in the organization of a theatre costume facility.

3. introduce you to the basic materials, supplies and crafts utilized in basic theatrical clothing construction.

4. expand your understanding and appreciation of the art of design as well as the craft and technology of costume construction, alterations and fittings.

5. achieve an elementary skill level in clothing technology.

6. sharpen your ability to recognize and appreciate the contribution of the craft of costume in the performing arts.

7. nurture your capacity to execute survival costume technology.

TEXT: THE COSTUME TECHNICIAN'S HANDBOOK, 3rd Edition

BY ROSEMARY INGHAM AND LIZ COVEY.

MATERIALS NEEDED FOR CLASSROOM PROJECTS ALL CLEARLY LABELED WITH YOUR NAME AND AVAILABLE AT THE SECOND CLASS MEETING.

THE KIT:

1. A CONTAINER, CIGAR BOX, BREAD TIN OR PLASTIC BOX TO SERVE AS YOUR SEWING CONTAINER...... identified

2. A PAIR OF FABRIC SHEARS WITH 7" TO 8" BLADE...... identified

3. A CLOTH MEASURING TAPE...... identified

4. A SEAM RIPPER. …..identified

5. A PIECE OF WHITE MARKING CHALK, EITHER WAX OR STONE.

6. A 6 SIX INCH "C" THRU RULER OR STRAIGHT EDGE.....identified

7. A BOX OF STRAIGHT PINS WITH OPTIONAL PIN CUSHION....identified

8. A NOTCHED TRACING WHEEL...... identified

9. HAND SEWING NEEDLES, (Mixed "Sharps" or Mixed "In-Betweens".)

10. A COLOR CODED PLATOON APRON WITH IDENTIFICATION INSIGNIA

GRADES:

THERE WILL BE POINT VALUES ASSIGNED TO EACH PROJECT OR SUBMISSION.

YOUR GRADE WILL BE BASED ON THE PERCENTAGE OF THE POSSIBLE POINTS AVAILABLE THAT YOU EARN DURING THIS SESSION.

ASSIGNMENTS ARE GIVEN AS INDICATED IN THE SYLLABUS AND, UNLESS OTHERWISE INDICATED, ARE DUE AND CREDITED TO YOUR ACCOUNT AT THE CLASS MEETING ASSIGNED.

N.B. An important aspect of WORKING for the theatre is meeting deadlines. There will be no exceptions. Work will be graded as submitted on the due date. Failure to submit a project on time is heavily penalized.

A PROJECT TURNED IN LATE MAY RECEIVE ONLY A MAXIMUM OF 50% OF ITS POTENTIAL VALUE.

Your grade will be based on the number of pts. you EARN during the semester: 90-100% = A; 80-89%= B; 70-79% = C; 60-69% = D; 59% or less = F.

ATTENDANCE: You are required to attend each class meeting and the departmental guidelines will be followed relative to a three unit class. AFTER accumulating three absences in this course your grade will be dropped for each additional absence. .

TWO TARDIES WILL EQUAL ONE ABSENCE. LEAVING CLASS EARLY WILL COUNT AS A TARDY.

YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO SEE ALL DEPARTMENTAL PRODUCTIONS AND TYPE A REVIEW FOR EACH OF THE MAIN STAGE PLAYS.

Classes will begin promptly as scheduled. Attendance will be taken in the first 10 minutes of the class meeting. You will be assessed a tardy if you arrive after attendance is taken. You will be counted absent if you are over a half hour late.

Storage:

Each of you will be assigned a space on a designated shelf in the classroom. Please keep all of your materials, equipment and "project in progress" in your space when they are not in use. If a project must be left out and not disturbed, you need to do two thing: first, clear it with a studio officer and then announce to the class that you are delayed in completion: second, tag the project with your name and projected completion so that others are aware of your predicament. No project qualifies for this status after the studio closes in the afternoon at 6PM

Clean up.

Each of you is responsible for helping to maintain order. This means turning off any equipment you have turned on, (including lights), clearing work stations and returning supplies that you have utilized. This is essential not only for efficiency; but, both neatness and order is an aspect of your craftsmanship and will be taken into account in your grade. We all share this studio. Respect for others work is a reflection of your artistic integrity

SHOP REGULATIONS

WILL BE REVIEWED AND EXPLAINED IN THE FIRST WEEK OF THE CLASS AND WILL BE STRICTLY OBSERVED. PLEASE NOTE. DURING THE SCHEDULED WORKSHOP MEETING THERE WILL BE NO EATING, DRINKING OR CELL PHONES IN THE STUDIO SPACE. VISITORS WILL NOT BE ALLOWED. USE OF THE TELEPHONE IS PROHIBITED DURING SCHEDULED WORK.

Books of special interest to costume technology and introduced in the pattern session are as follows:

HILL AND BUCKNELL. THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.

MOTLEY. DESIGNING AND MAKING STAGE COSTUMES.

WAUGH, NORAH. CORSETS AND CRINOLINES.

WAUGH, NORAH. THE CUT OF MEN'S CLOTHE

WAUGH NORAH. THE CUT OF WOMEN'S CLOTHES.

DREHRER, DENISE. FROM THE NECK UP.

ARNOLD, JANET. PATTERNS OF FASHION VOLS, 1 ,2, AND 3.

HOLLEN. PATTERN MAKING BY THE FLAT PATTERN METHOD.

SHAW, WILLIAM. BASIC PATTERN DRAFTING FOR THE THEATRICAL COSTUME DESIGNER.

KOHLER, CARL. HISTORY OF COSTUME.

Wk. Day Events

1. W. INTRODUCTION: the process; the purpose; the challenge;

Syllabus introduction, supplies and text discussion.

Assign aprons and platoons,

Assignment: Read pp. 1-58, Chapters #1 & #2 in your HANDBOOK

Acquire supplies by next class. 10 points if labeled

N.B. PROJECT pts. AT CHECK IN.

Explanation of tools and variations Q and A.

Tour costume. facilities,

Assignment of platoon sergeants, corporals and privates.

Scavenger Hunt

Buy Pull or Find 2 ½ yards of 100 % cotton for your apron project

2. M. CHAPTER I Costume shop organization and equipment.

Handouts on health and safety. Discussion and demonstrations.

Check in supplies already properly labeled for 10 pts.

Check in fabric for apron needed in two weeks for project launch

Hand out of machine stitching exercises.

Demonstration of threading, bobbin and basic operations

Each student will thread a machine and thread a bobbin

W/ Hand out of hand sewing sampler fabric

Demonstration hand sewing tools and equipment, basic basting, half back full back and whip stitch.

Assi. Review for quiz on M 50 point on H. & S.

. Discussion of Chapters 1 and 2

W. Discuss the machine and hand sewing check sheet

Rehearse machine threading, bobbin winding and basic operations

Continue on paper and clothe samplers.

Review hand sewing lock stitch and cross or catch stitch.

Samplers will be due in class on Monday of week four

and are to be completed outside of class time as needed.

3. M. QUIZ 50 POINTS on health and safety chapter.

Apron introduction

Pattern terminology and demonstration.

Pattern layout

Demonstration of apron layout with pattern schematics

Handout pattern schematic and apron instructions

Assi. read apron instructions

W/ Layout marking and cutting

hand sewing samplers due next M.. (50 pts.)

machine sewing samplers due next M.. (50 pts.)

Students will complete apron check sheet #1

Assi: Finish cutting out pattern by next Monday’s class meeting.(20pts)

4. M Samplers due, total 100 points. 50 pts. @.machine & hand.

Preliminary construction demonstration of apron parts.

Demonstrate serging , apron ties and pin cushion

Demonstrate bib construction: work on these steps.

W. Pleats and top stitching

Demonstration of edge stitch foot

check in all marked pattern pieces (20 pts.)

Discuss pleat preparation

Completion of check sheet #2

5. M. OVERVIEW OF COMMERCIAL PATTERN

TECHNOLOGY, JARGON AND INFORMATION;

Distribute first of commercial pattern projects and discuss.

Dart terminology and technique

Review of Closures

Discussion and demonstration, snaps, hooks eyes and bars.

W. Apron work session

begin work check sheet #3

Assi; complete closures 20 pts by next Monday.

Attend a performance of DEPARTMENTAL MAIN STAGE PRODUCTION and type the critique with formal evaluation of MSP.

Review due at the class meeting following production’s closure.

Read chapter on Fabric in Handbook.

.

6. M. Overview and discussion of Fabric.

Show and Tell Fabric session in Swatch Barrel.

discussion of bias binding Lecture on" FABRICS"

Demonstration of buttons and buttonholes

W. Apron work session

Check sheet #4 completed by Monday 25 points.

Assi: prepare for midterm examination. Focus will be on fabric.(100 pts).

7. M Fabric burn test and demonstration

Review health and safety, sewing terminology and fabric facts for midterm examination (100 pts.)

W. Apron work session, apron complete for 100 pts. Worn at final examination

Review due (25 pts).

Midterm exam will be written and apx. one hour in the classroom prior to the apron work session in the studio.

8. M. Commercial Pattern section. A 2nd garment pattern will be distributed and discussed.

The garment will have a details outlined in pattern packet TBA.

Fabric will be approved, washed and pressed

Seam Sampler demonstration and discussion

A discussion of the instruction sheet will follow.

W/ The garments will be laid out during the studio session and labeled

They will be cut by next class meeting

9. M. Garments cut out and checked at the beginning of the class. 50 points. Markings checked and verified and Patterns removed from the cloth and returned to the platoon leader. Begin first steps of garment pattern construction.

Garment will be complete and submitted as part of Final Examination and will be worth 100 points.

W. Discussion of pattern project #1 . Measurement demonstration

10. Spring break.

11. M. Work on commercial pattern projects as needed

W. Work on commercial pattern projects as needed

12. M. Work on commercial pattern project.

W. Work on commercial pattern projects as needed

13. M. Fitting demonstration check the partners fit and switch to partner

W.

14. M. Work on commercial pattern projects as needed

W. Work on commercial pattern projects as needed

15. M. Work on personal garment

W. Work on personal garment

16. M. Review Health and Safety materials, fabric and machine information

in preparation and review for the final examination

W. Q and A on final examination and project work.

Final Exam as published in University Schedule May 13 11 am to 2 am Final presentation and Exam

Wearing personal apron project,

N.B. Only the instructor may change dates and project assignments

Always wear your labeled team apron to class.

Always bring your textbook and sewing kit to classroom and studio sessions unless otherwise instructed.

Remember these skills are cumulative and they are built on each other.

Missing a session can jeopardize your progress and your grade.

Quizzes can and will be given at any time.

COSTUME STUDIO RULES/REGULATIONS

1. ATTENDANCE AT ALL CLASSES IS EXPECTED.

2. CLASSES BEGIN PROMPTLY AS SCHEDULED EXCEPT WHEN ADJUSTMENTS ARE ESTABLISHED BY THE INSTRUCTOR.

3. SMOKING, EATING AND DRINKING IN THE STUDIO OR CLASSROOM DURING ANY ACTIVITY OR WORK SESSION IS PROHIBITED.

4. VISITORS ARE NOT ALLOWED DURING EITHER THE WORKSHOP OR LECTURES.

5. EMERGENCIES EXCEPTED, THE USE OF THE TELEPHONE WILL NOT BE ALLOWED. THIS INCLUDES PERSONAL CELL PHONES & TEXT MESSAGING.

6. PERSONAL PARAPHERNALIA MUST BE STORED IN ASSIGNED SPACE OR IT WILL BE CONFISCATED.

7. THE LECTURE PORTION OF THE CLASS IS INSTRUCTION FOR THE STUDIO SESSION. YOU WILL BE GIVEN INSTRUCTION SHEETS THAT YOU WILL BE EXPECTED TO APPLY TO EACH OF THE ASSIGNMENTS.

8.  A WORKROOM IN THE MEN'S DRESSING ROOM, ROOM WT118, WILL BE AVAILABLE IF NECESSARY TO KEEP CURRENT WITH EACH ASSIGNEMENT. THE KEY MUST BE CHECKED OUT FROM THE SHOP SUPERVISOR AND RETURNED IMMEDIATELY. A $25 FEE WILL BE CHARGED FOR IT’S LOSS.

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