TRAIL WORK TOOLS

Introduction

Tools used for trail work are, in general, those used by farmers, gardeners, landscapers, woodsmen, forest firefighters, and homeowners. Which you prefer to use will come from experience; you are encouraged to try out various kinds and to experiment with new tools you may find (or make yourself).

A tool is part of a system – you and the tools you have with you. Your understandings of how to use the tool and of the job you intend to do, the skill and experience you develop, and your physical abilities to function are key to effectiveness. You and only you are responsible for this part of the tool system. The Club can provide training, but it is you who does the learning and preparing for action.

No tool is worth its weight if it isn’t taken care of. The Club maintains caches of tools for use by overseers and trail crews. When trail workers open the cache, they should find tools ready-to-use. This means that hand tools are clean, sharpened and lubricated if necessary, and with unbroken handles. Tools do get dirty, lose their edge, and occasionally break. If they break, inform the tool cache custodian and he or she will get them repaired or replaced.

Tool caches have wire brushes to remove dirt from tools, and cans of WD-40 to spray on metal surfaces to prevent rust. They should also have files to sharpen the edges of dull tools. If each tool user touches up the edge of a tool he or she uses, then sharpening takes little time. If edges are not touched up, they curl over and have to be grinded down and the bevel re-established, a time consuming affair.

To sharpen a hand tool with a file, wear gloves to protect your hands. Look at the tool edge and you will see a bevel, or part of the tool edge that is at a different angle from the rest of the metal part of the tool. File at the angle of and straight across the bevel and toward the tool. The file cuts on the push stroke. After each push, lift the file and bring it back to a push position. If you pull and push, the file can be ruined. Bring the tool to a reasonable edge. (NOTE: If sharpening an ax other than a Pulaski, use stones designed for axes. Don’t use a file.) (NOTE ALSO: Some Pulaskis are sharpened and honed by trail crews so they can be used to cut trees or as an adze to level logs. They should be marked. Don’t use such tools if present in a cache.)

Linseed oil should periodically be rubbed into wooden handles to prevent them from drying out.

Overseers are encouraged to buy some of the tools they use regularly (or to use their personal pruning and gardening tools). This will save time needed to obtain tools from caches, and allow picking tools they prefer. Suggested tools include a set of hand loppers and folding pruning saw, or a slightly larger set of loppers and 13 inch tri-cut pruning saw (with scabbard), a small hand ax, a swing blade for clearing vegetation, and perhaps a rogue hoe or small McLeod (The Club sells tools at a discount to overseers).

Layout, Measure and Map Trails

Tools to layout trails include such things as contour maps, satellite or aerial photographs of terrain, inclinometers, flags, compasses, and flagging tape. Basically, the route is planned using maps and photography, then walked and marked. Not until “feet are on the ground” can an actual route be determined.

Measuring is easily done using a measuring wheel. GPS readings can also provide distances. Sometimes GPS readings and on the ground measured distances differ due to dips and hills in the trail; the GPS measures a flat over the ground distance. The GPS however can give you location and altitude information at key points, with reasonable accuracy.

Guidance for laying out trails is contained in the current Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) “Appalachian Trail Design, Construction, and Maintenance” manual and the Student Conservation Association (SCA) “Lightly on the Land” manual.

Mapping can be done in two basic ways.

Walk the trail and note distances to various landmarks on the trail, steep areas, trail structures, and turns in the trail, and sketch the route on a contour map or piece of paper. Altitudes can be obtained from contour maps, altimeters, or GPS readings, or can be dispensed with. Access points should be shown and noted. Such a rough map is often adequate to report trail conditions and plan work trips.

For a smoother map, a GPS can be used to mark and trace the route, and transcribe it to paper using a PC and suitable program. Waypoints should be identified, showing landmarks, turns, and access points.

The Club keeps measuring wheels in the tool room and the staff Trail Coordinator maintains custody of a GPS for use on trails. These can be checked out to layout and measure trails and to make maps. You are responsible for returning them promptly.

Digging in the Dirt

A prudent practice when using tools to dig, cut, etc., is to wear safety glasses. For some reason unknown to mankind, stuff likes to fly up and get in peoples’ eyes.

Digging in the dirt in various ways is fundamental to constructing and repairing or maintaining trail tread and erosion control structures. Sometimes you will use your hands “the first tools” to pick up stuff or yank on roots. For safety and as a precaution, keep tetanus shots up to date and wear work gloves. Until your hands are hardened, this will also protect against blisters.

Digging tools have four basic design features, often combined in different ways, i.e.:

  1. Raking features to remove leaves, organic cover (“duff”), and loose rocks,
  2. Spike-like features (picks) to dig into and break up compacted or rocky soils,
  3. Wider flattened features to cut into and move soil (mattocks or hoes), and
  4. Ax-like features to cut roots.

Lawn and garden rakes work well to clear leaves and loose duff. But, in general you will be carrying tools to the work site, so combination tools offer advantages.

One of the most versatile is a forest fire-fighting tool called a McLeod. This is a tool designed specifically to clear leaves, duff, and soft soil quickly. One side is a rake with large, rounded teeth. The other is a large hoe with a sharp edge. McLeods come in two sizes, large and small. They are best in wooded areas where soil is not too rocky. They are also very useful after soil has been broken up to rake out rocks and roots, to shape tread, and to compact soil. Other than avoiding blisters, McLeods are safe tools to use. (NOTE: The McCleod is not designed to pound on hard and rocky dirt to loosen it. It this is done, the handle or teeth of the tool will be broken.) (NOTE ALSO: The McCleod is not a pry bar. It will break if you try to pry rocks or stumps out of the ground. Use a pick mattock or rock bar instead.)

Another rake that is used in trail work, another forest fire-fighting tool, is called a fire rake. This rake has sharp triangular teeth and is used to clear duff and organic soil, cutting roots that are in the layers. It is also used to clear vegetation. The fire rake is a safe tool to use.

Mattocks and heavy duty hoes come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. The difference between mattocks and hoes is basically width, with a mattock being narrower. Both have sharpened edges with small bevels to cut into soil.

Combination Mattocks

  1. Three combination mattocks are used for trail work. One is a combination of a long pick and a long mattock (called a pick-mattock). Another is a combination of a short ax and a long mattock (called a cutter-mattock). The third is a combination of a full ax and a short mattock (called a Pulaski after the inventor, a forest fire-fighter).
  2. Pick and cutter mattocks are rugged tools intended for heavy work in breaking up soil, and to a limited degree to move soil. They come in two sizes, about five and three pounds. The heavier tool requires more strength to use and is more difficult to carry in, but it does a more effective job and puts less strain on shoulders. The pick mattock is the more useful in that compacted and rocky soils are frequently encountered, and the pick is the more efficient tool to break up the soils. The cutter mattock is designed for softer soils such as are found in wooded areas. The cutter is used to cut roots (NOTE: It is wise to sharpen the ends of mattocks, not to a knife-edge, but reasonably sharp. Otherwise, you will be using something like a hammer to dig into the soil. That is a lot of work!) (NOTE ALSO: Pick and cutter mattocks are not fixed on the handle, the head slides off. You can take the head off and carry it in your pack. (When taking heads off, keep your jaw out of the way of the handle, sharp force is applied to the tool to remove the head and the handle can deliver a blow to the jaw if it is in the way). To use, simply slide the head on the handle, and thump the handle on the ground to fix the head in place.)
  3. The Pulaski mattock is designed to cut and move duff and organic soil, and can be used in more compacted soils. But, the tool is not designed for heavy work like the mattocks. The ax part of the Pulaski is used to cut large roots, or can be used to cut tree and branch sections and remove bark for trail structures. (NOTE: If a lot of force is used when swinging a Pulaski, the ax head tends to become loose, or to come off. If it hits you or someone else, it will smart or inflict severe cuts.)
  4. One problem frequently encountered when using combination mattocks is that they become entangled in tree roots. Rather than whale away at them with the mattocks, it is far more useful and quicker to cut roots with loppers.
  5. Several safety concerns must be addressed when using these tools. First, they are all designed to cut through things. They are safest and most effective when the edge is maintained. When using the tools, you will be swinging them towards your body (generally your feet and shins). Try and swing the tool so your legs aren’t in the way. Wearing sturdy leather boots and shin guards (such as those worn by soccer players) is a good idea, particularly if working on steep slopes.
  6. To maintain control of the tools and not hit yourself, lift your hand on the end of the tool handle no more than just shoulder height. The other hand should slide along the handle as you bring it down to control its direction (The same technique used when cutting with an ax). Let the tool weight create force needed to cut into the dirt. As you gain experience, you will know how much force to impart to the tool so it does what you want.
  7. The ax side of a Pulaski should be used by people who have previously used an ax, or under close supervision of an experienced person. Large roots are often at sharp angles in the ground, they must be cut as squarely as possible to avoid being struck by a glancing blow. Even more important is to ensure the edge of the ax is sharp; carrying a small bastard file for sharpening is wise.

Heavy Duty Hoes

  1. There are a lot of different type hoes, e.g., grub, acorn, hazel, and rogue. The first three are designed to dig into soil, cut roots, and move dirt. The rogue hoe is a new design and appears well fitted for trail work.
  2. The rogue hoe is a large, medium weight hoe sharpened on three sides. Its bevel makes it knifelike so that it can cut through soil and roots easily. It is an excellent tool to clear, shape, and compact soil behind erosion control structures, and to shape the edge of trails. Because it is very sharp, it can be used to a limited degree to clear vegetation. Care should be taken to avoid cutting yourself, although generally it is a safe tool to use.

When using any digging tool, try to cut into the dirt at an angle. If you dig straight into the soil, you may make a small hole or break the tool. As you gain a feel for the tools you use, and experience in digging and shaping soil, you will learn to cut just the right amount of dirt you want where you want to cut it, and with just the right amount of force.

Another tool used is a spade (pointed) shovel, along with a pail. These are used to move dirt from one place to another, or to obtain and move small rocks to compact and harden tread or to fill drainage traps. If putting in posts, post-hole diggers and digging bars are used. Sledgehammers of various sizes are used to drive steel splitting wedges into logs so they can be leveled for use in trail structures, break up rocks, and drive stakes into the ground. Wear safety glasses when using a sledgehammer.

There are small hand tools that can be useful for basic maintenance, or to assist in using such things as chain or cross cut saws, i.e., small entrenching tools that can be broken down and carried in a pack (pick mattocks, pick-shovel-hoe). A folding U-Dig it hand held shovel, usually used to dig a cat-hole, can also be used to dig a trench under a log that is on the ground and that you want to saw through.

Clearing Vegetation and Cutting Trees

Extremely useful are lopping shears (loppers). Their purpose is to cut branches and woody vegetation. There are two types, anvil and bypass. Anvil loppers stand up better to the demands of trail work and are recommended (The cutting blade cuts into a flat piece of metal (usually copper or some such surface) called an anvil). Some anvil loppers are made from composite material (Fiskars produces a medium length very light weight lopper that is very effective. It fits in a pocket or pack easily.). Loppers range in size from single hand operated to two-handed tools with several feet of length. Some have adjustable length handles. For cutting higher limbs, cutters are mounted on poles and operated with a rope.

Frequently you will find that a branch just will not cut easily using loppers. You will be tempted to twist the loppers to force the cut. Don’t do it. It breaks the loppers. A better way to cut larger branches is to use a pruning saw.

To cut grasses and other soft vegetation, the most practical hand tool is what is called a swing blade. This is a serrated blade mounted on a triangular metal brace at the end of a handle. The blade is sharpened on two sides (The metal is soft, so carrying a bastard file or stone to re-sharpen the blade during a work trip is a good idea. It is also a good idea to carry extra bolts and lock-nuts. The blades have a habit of coming loose). The swing blade is held in both hands and swung to cut vegetation. Cutting with the blade at a slight angle across grass works best. Generally, swing blades are safe to use as long as you don’t hit someone else. Smart overseers cut vegetation early in the growing season, and periodically cut it back before it can become thick. Thick vines, thorns, briars, poison ivy, and grass are a bear to cut!

Power brush cutters and power trimmers are useful in clearing large areas of vegetative growth. A brush cutter has bicycle handlebars and is designed for metal blades that can cut woody vegetation in addition to cutting grasses. A trimmer has a loop handle and is designed to cut grasses. A metal blade should not be used with a power trimmer as control of the tool cannot be assured. Unless you are skilled in the use of a brush cutter with metal blades, string or plastic are recommended. Required personal protection equipment includes safety goggles, gloves, and earplugs or muffs. If using a metal blade, wear also shin guards and stout leather boots. Long sleeve shirts and long trousers are recommended. Read manufacturer’s instructions, they will indicate why safety guidelines are in place and what they are. (NOTE: Power brush cutters throw up a lot of vegetation and small rocks. Included may be Poison Ivy. Wearing a face shield can save you from some itchiness and protect your face. But, a face shield does not replace safety goggles.)

To cut trees and larger branches, the most useful tool is a saw.

Pruning saws are now produced in what is called a tri-cut blade. This is a very sharp and hard toothed saw. They are designed to cut across the grain of wood (cross cut). To a degree they can cut with the grain of wood (rip cut), but not efficiently. They come in folding handsaws 6” to 8” lengths, and fixed saws 13” to 26” lengths. 13” blades can be mounted on pole saws to reach higher branches or to cut branches at the side of a trail (Useful and practical for trail work is a 1” by 1” piece of wood, about 3 to 4 feet long, with a 13” tri cut saw blade fastened with bolts and nuts to the end. This is a light tool, easily carried, and can make pruning easy). Tri-cut saw teeth are sufficiently hardened that the saw can be used to cut roots in the ground without appreciably dulling the saw. They are also sufficiently sharp and effective that they can be used to cut downed trees up to about 8” in diameter (Larger trees can be cut, but it is time consuming). They are safe to use, except that cuts on the hands from the sharp teeth are frequent. Be careful and cover the blade when not in use, and use gloves when handling the saw. Tri-cuts can be sharpened, but it is very time consuming, better to simply replace blades if they ever become dull.