Rock climbing competencies: appended

RC1/RC1G (Grigri)

  1. Able to put on a harness properly
  2. Able to tie onto a rope using a follow thru figure 8
  3. Demonstrates the protocol/process for checking the climbing partner
  4. Knows the proper communications for top roping..ie “is that you?”, on belay, climbing, climb on take, slack, got you, falling, lower, secure, ROCK!
  5. Understands the use of a helmet and wearing it
  6. Understands about climbing shoes
  7. Understands about rock wall etiquette ie: trash, washroom breaks, hogging a route, harassing /distracting the belayer
  8. Understands never to use bolts for hand/foot holds
  9. Demonstrates the ability to correctly rig a belay device.. tube or grigri, plate
  10. Demonstrates the ability to properly belay someone on top rope

RC2/RC2G (Grigri)

All of RC1 and the following

  1. Demonstrates the ability to spot a lead climber
  2. Demonstrates the ability to belay a lead climber (alternately feeding and taking rope as needed)

RC3-R/RC3G-R (Grigri)..means able to lead but not able/or comfortable rappelling THIS needs to be communicated before cleaning an anchor

All of RC1 and RC2 plus the following

  1. Demonstrates the ability to correctly clip the quickdraws into bolts
  2. Demonstrates the ability to correctly clip the rope into the quickdraws ( recognize and avoid back clipping and z clipping)
  3. Demonstrate the ability to secure themselves to a belay station using a personal anchor device ( Metolius Person Anchor System, Purcell Prussic, sewn sling (nylon not Dyneema)
  4. Demonstrate the understanding of a good anchor system and how to build one (SRENE) (No Sliding X)
  5. Demonstrate how to securely untie from the rope, thread the rope thru the anchor or bolts (for lowering / rappelling )ie: cleaning and anchor
  6. If being lowered by the belayer must demonstrate the ability to retie into the rope( follow thru figure 8 ) and test to ensure they are securely on belay before disengaging their personal anchor device

RC3/RC3G (able to rappel)

7a. Demonstrate how to correctly rig a rappel device and back it up with a prussic or some other auto-block system and how to find the halfway point on the rope.. Tie knots in the ends (preferably a barrel knot ) and Yell “Rope” before throwing the rope .

7b. Demonstrate how to securely test the rappel system before disengaging their personal anchor.

7c. Demonstrate how to rappel in a safe, slow and steady manner.

MPS1 Multi-pitch sport climbing with bolted routes and belay/rappel stations

(really for those learning how to do multipitch)

  1. Qualified as a “RC3” person ie able to rappel clean anchors
  2. Able to demonstrate the ability to second on a route cleaning the quickdraws as they move.
  3. Should be the basics of understanding how to tie in to a rope for a multi-pitch with a single rope.

MPS2

  1. Able to lead a multi pitch bringing the needed gear ie: quickdraws, slings, biners, prussics
  2. Demonstrates the knowledge on how to stack the rope during a hanging belay (Rope Management)
  3. Able to belay the second from a hanging belay
  4. Demonstrates the ability to secure themselves to the belay station with either a personal anchor device or using a clove hitch and a locking biner
  5. Knows how to setup an acceptable anchor system with atc device ( or redirected tube )

MPS3

All of RC and MPS plus

  1. Able to belay two people using either a single or double rope
  2. Knows basic rock rescue