How was Z1 conceived?
Basically the whole project was launched three years ago, when the development of Zalium was well under way. We needed to create a special watch to fit the alloy. The first objective was to create a Harry Winston sports watch which would stand out, carry the company’s DNA and be positioned very high-end. As we had always refused to craft a non precious metal timepiece, this was a very big step for the company, and we were all slightly nervous.
I find it very fitting that our first non-precious metal watch be made of a unique alloy, which is not only extremely tough and has a very interesting shine/colour, but also that Ronald Winston be the man behind the alloy itself. It just fits perfectly in our vision of how and why a product be created in our House.
On a personal note, I bought my hand winding Panerai Luminor approximately five years ago, just when Richemont relaunched the brand. And, even though I still appreciate this piece for the design icon it represents, and the rich history it embodies, I started growing tired of seeing so many people wearing the same piece. So one of the objectives of Z1 was to try to create a sports watch, which would embody all the attributes we expect of an iconic sports watch, and be RARE.
How the case design became what it is ?
That is really a unique story based on friendship and “generations”.
Jean-Claude Gueit was the designer of the first Harry Winston watches. The House worked with him to launch in 1989 the Premier biretrograde perpetual calendar and the Signature jewellery watch. Jean-Claude thereafter went on to become head of design at Piaget up till end of last year when he retired. And it is our great pleasure to work again together on some high-jewellery pieces.
Emmanuel Gueit, Jean-Claude’s son, has also made a name for himself in horological design. For over ten years he was one of the two designers at Audemars Piguet, followed by four years in the Fossil Group. He has now set up his independent work studio in Paris. I got to know Emmanuel fifteen years ago when I did a six week work mission during my university studies at AP. It was Emmanuel’s first job, and he had just started; we have been good friends ever since.
Emmanuel created of the Royal Oak Offshore ten years ago. He battled and fought with practically everyone to get this project of what seemed to be a gigantic unwearable watch through at the time. He clearly had a vision.
Now, it seemed to the HW team very fitting to ask Jean-Claude’s son, fifteen years after his father, to design a “new generation” Harry Winston watch. And so it was. After our initial brief, Emmanuel came up with four variations, and what was the base of the Z1 immediately hit us all in the meeting. That was it !
Sometimes watch designs need 3 to 5 years of change and refinement, because one is not satisfied. By experience you should immediately stop those projects and get along with something else, and sometimes it just clicks the first time. You know you hold the right design practically from the beginning. This was exactly what happened. Again, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. What seems wonderful to our team, can probably seem very ugly to many others. So we can only speak of what we like.
Why a chronograph vs a simple time only piece ?
Sports watches are immediately linked with chronographs. It was clear from the beginning that the first Z would have to be a chrono, but it could not be a traditional movement, whatever the quality of it. So we set upon creating the triple retrograde excentered chrono with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, based upon the beautiful Frederic Piguet 1185 column wheel movement.
Z1 therefore presents 3 world premieres: the design, the movement and the alloy.
The reasons behind how it got its name ?
PROJECT Z1. Each item in the name is very important.
This piece is a concept watch, so as such PROJECT just seemed fitting. In the next series, it is very possible that the word Project give way to a generic line name. But this first piece was and is “the Project”.
Z first for Zalium. But also as a base for an iteration. Next year will see the production of the Z1 in rose gold and white gold, and it will nevertheless keep the Z1 denomination.
And 1, because similar to the Opus series, there will be each year a new limited edition concept in Zalium. And so yes indeed there will be a Z2, a Z3, and many others over the coming years.
The future of Z projects
The elements are in the previous answer. The Z series gives us a great platform to work a different angle to horology, whilst not competing with our existing lines. We have already the next 4 projects lined up and there will be more innovative complications, and some may even be diamond set pieces, to combine our heritage and our future. All with strong character.