Homemade Mayonnaise
By Charlie Burke
www.TheHeartofNewEngland.com
Every serious cook should be able to make mayonnaise. For some reason, I hadn’t made it for some time but was reminded by this dish how much the rich, tart flavor of real mayonnaise differs from the supermarket brands.
Once the making of the initial emulsion is mastered, it really is not difficult, although Julia Child in her wonderful memoir, “My Life in France” (Knopf), gives a riotous and detailed account of her developing a recipe for mayonnaise for her first cookbook. She sent it to the publisher marked: “Top Secret”! This recipe is decidedly less complicated.
Your own mayonnaise will raise everything from potato salad to lobster rolls to a new level, and simple additions or herbs, garlic (with fish soups) or even curry will adapt it to many meals.
Mayonnaise (approximately ½ cup):
1 yolk from an extra large egg (or 1 large yolk plus a teaspoon of a second)
2 teaspoons lemon juice
¼ teaspoon dry mustard or ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup vegetable oil, such as canola or grape seed oil
Sea salt or kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
2-3 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh basil (parsley, thyme, tarragon work, as well, but do not use dried herbs)
Separate the egg(s), reserving the white. Place the yolk, mustard and lemon juice into a small bowl and whisk together until well blended. Add oil a couple drops at a time and whisk until blended. Continue adding slowly until about a tablespoon has been added. At this time the emulsion is established, and the oil can be added in a thin stream with constant whisking. If you see oil that is not incorporated, mix it in before adding more oil. When all the oil is added, continue mixing for a minute or so, add salt and pepper to taste and mix in herbs. Cover tightly and refrigerate until serving. A food processor or blender can be used, following the same procedure, but I enjoy seeing it come together by hand, and any time saved by the machines is lost in the cleaning.