DYEING
Dyeing one’s own feathers, etc., is a most interesting adjunct to the art of fly-tying.
Most tyers are under the impression that it is a messy and unprofitable business, but it need not be so.
The old fashioned methods, although quite effective were very complicated, but the aniline dyes now procurable have greatly simplified matters.
These dyes can be bought from any fishing tackle shop that stocks fly-tying materials, or from the firms specialising in the sale of these items. The range of colours, some two score in number, covers all needs and as these dyes have not been adulterated like most textile dyes, they are very economical to use.
The only utensils necessary for small quantities are a small aluminium milk saucepan and another slightly larger. The small saucepan is first perforated with small holes over the sides and bottom with an awl until it becomes like a collander, or if you wish a wire potato chip basket is ideal. This is for holding the material to be dyed and will stand inside the larger utensil. This collander will take quite a quantity of small feathers and any fur to be dyed. Larger feathers may be cut to fit the receptacle.
The object of the perforated saucepan (or collander) is for the easy control of the dyeing process and inspection of the material while dyeing. Also it is a very clean method as the hands need not come in contact with the dye solution.
Furs and feathers must be treated before dyeing. The usual process is quite simple. Using the larger saucepan, prepare a solution of soap powder or any good detergent. Place the feathers to be dyed in the smaller perforated saucepan (collander) and soak for a few minutes (Waterfowl feathers must be soaked considerably longer to allow penetration of the natural oil coating).
The feathers must now be well rinsed. This is quite simple with the collander. Just lift it out of the larger saucepan and place in a bowl of clean warm water, repeating this until all trace of soap is removed. Held under a hot tap the process is even more simpler.
If the material is only being cleaned, then it should be thoroughly rinsed in warm water before being spread out to dry.
Also to-day we have the added advantage of modern detergents and de-greasers which are thoroughly recommended. They are quick to use and very effective. See directions as follows for the use of VENPOL and DE-GREASER, which are the best in this field.
Draw enough hot water into a bowl to immerse the material. Add VENPOL and swish water into lather before adding the material to be cleaned or dyed. Half fluid oz VENPOL is sufficient in 4 pints of water (1 part in 160). Allow soaking time according to the material. Hackles require only a few minutes but waterfowl feathers, quills and hair considerably longer.
VENPOL is so pure that unless the material is very dirty, rinsing is not necessary prior to dyeing.
VENPOL is not a de-greasing agent but a very effective liquid detergent. Remember to us it sparingly.
The use of a de-greaser is advised for removing the obstinate oil and grease from Hair and Feathers before dyeing and is particularly recommended for Buck Tails, Squirrel Tails, Goat Hair, Seals Fur and all Raw Materials on the Skin, etc.
1. Soak the material in this solution and work the suds through thoroughly. Leave to soak for not more than half an hour then rinse thoroughly again in warm water.
Dye in the usual way and when the desired shade is obtained, add fixative and rinse well in cold running water.
2. To dye the more obstinate types of material, i.e., extremely greasy Buck Tails, etc., a little more de-greaser may be added to the solution. Extreme caution must be used as this agent is extremely powerful.
Used to excess, feather fibres become distressed and hairs tend to soften, with a consequent lack of luster after dyeing.
3. Very greasy hackles on the Skin (Capes) should be processed by soaking in a solution of ½% VENIARD DE-GREASER in water only. Rinse in warm water to remove the surface film before dyeing.
Now for the actual dyeing, which is simplicity itself.
Fill the larger saucepan with water a little more than half full and stand over a gentle heat. Add one quarter of a teaspoonful of dye powder to one quart of water for feathers from land birds, double the quantity for material from water fowl and allow the solution to come to boiling point. Stir thoroughly until completely dissolved then add one tablespoon full of vinegar (to fix colour).
BLACK & DARK SHADES SHOULD HAVE A MUCH STRONGER DYE BATH AND PRO RATA MORE VINEGAR.
Put in feathers to be dyed and return to the boil and simmer gently, keeping the feathers moving all the time.
All dyes are a mixture of 3 colours so it is essential to allow all the colours to penetrate to obtain the desired shade. They do not fix at the same speed so withdrawing the feathers too soon could result in the totally wrong shade (bear in mind feathers appear much darker when wet).
Care must now be taken in order to get the right shade. The collander makes this quite simple. To inspect the material being dyed you lift the collander out of the large saucepan containing the dye solution. The water runs out through the holes, leaving the material at the bottom for inspection. It must be remembered that the material will be a lighter shade when dry and it may be necessary to add more dye to get the deeper shades. This is again quite simple with the collander, as it can be lifted and more dye added to the solution without coming in contact with the material being dyed. You can get a very good idea of what the shade of feathers will be by watching the quill or holding up a single feather before the light.
Shades of Red, Yellow, Blue, etc., are quite straightforward but a little experience is required to obtain the delicate shades of Olives and Duns, etc. The tendency is to use too much dye. It is much better to start with a little and add as necessary.
At this stage, Black requires a special mention.
It is necessary to use at least one half of a teaspoonful of powder to one quart of water and the material should be heated for as long as possible. A good tip is to leave the dye-bath standing over-night to cool. By morning a rich glossy black should be obtained.
Having obtained the desired shade, remove the collander from the dye solution and put under a cold water tape until all surplus dye is removed. Press the material between cloth or paper to absorb most of the moisture.
To bring hackles, etc., back to their natural brilliance, they should be partially dried and then placed in a cardboard lid. Hold the lid over a gas ring and shake gently until quite dry. It does not matter how fierce the heat from the ring is, providing the feathers are kept moving continually.
These directions also apply to furs, wools, etc.
It is remarkable how quickly loose feathers and quills regain their natural sheen when this simple operation is conducted.
Likewise, material on the skin, i.e., hackle necks, Buck Tails etc., should be lightly beaten against the palm of one hand, held well above a gas ring or burner.
The range of shades of any particular colour is infinite and doing one’s own dyeing enables one to test ideas with results that would not otherwise be obtainable.
Rhode Island Red Hackles with dye Claret, Purple or Black and to obtain Honey Dun or Rusty Dun shades us a White Hackle with a Honey or Red edge to the fibres. These hackles are freaks but are sometimes obtainable.
Points to remember: (a) Remove all trace of soap from feathers before putting them in the dye bath. (b) Always keep feathers on the move when at boiling point or just under. (c) Always remove the material before adding more dye, as otherwise there is a danger of “spotting”. (d) Do not use a stronger dye bath than necessary. (e) Rinse well after dyeing. (f) Never dry before a fierce heat as it will take all the life out of the material. If you follow these simple rules all your efforts should be successful.
For the best results always use Veniard’s dyes and preparations.
FLUORESCENT DYES
These are quite easy to use except that less dye is required and the following directions must be carefully noted in addition. Pastel shades are best.
Hackles dye up well and fluoresce excellently. However, do not attempt deep shades, for although you can dye the material dark colours your fluorescence will be masked by the depth of shade.
These directions also apply to Furs, Wools, etc... Mohair is the best medium as it is very brilliant. Natural hairs such as Seals Fur, Buck Tail, Goat Hair etc., do not fluoresce brightly so the shades should be kept as light as possible.
It will be noted that the colours are limited to 8 pastel shades and these can be mixed as an artist would his paints. For example, Pink and Orange will give salmon pink. Lime and Blue will give the green for “Teal and Green”, Pink and Blue will give the magenta for “Silver Wilkinson” etc., etc.
White Fluorescent Dye will fluoresce blue, although the white material will not change colour. Grey Fluorescent Dye will also fluoresce a shade of blue and here the colour should be kept as pale as possible, to help get the best fluorescent result. All the other colours will fluoresce a colour close to the dyed shade and in the case of the Fluorescent Pink, Fluorescent Lime and Fluorescent Blue, should be kept as light as possible. A really rich Orange, Scarlet and Yellow can be obtained without fear of masking the fluorescence.
For the best results use only the whitest and brightest of materials for dyeing.
VENIARD
SPECIAL DYES
FOR FLY-TYERS
GREEN OLIVE / YELLOW (GOLDEN)MEDIUM OLIVE / HOT ORANGE
BROWN OLIVE / SCARLET/RED
GOLDEN OLIVE / CRIMSON
DARK OLIVE / LT. CLARET
OLIVE DUN / CLARET
GREY / MAGENTA
BLUE DUN (SLATE / PURPLE
IRON BLUE / KINGFISHER
GINGER / LT. BLUE (CAMBRIDGE)
SUMMER DUCK / BLUE (TEAL AND BLUE0
FIERY BROWN / DARK. BLUE
CINNAMON / BRIGHT GREEN
DARK BROWN / DARK GREEN
BLACK / INSECT GREEN
BRIGHT YELLOW / GREEN HIGHLANDER
FLUORESCENT ORANGE / FLUORESCENT SCARLET
FLUORESCENT YELLOW / FLUORESCENT LIME