GOA - INDIA
21 February - 7 March 2002
Itinerary
21 February Arrival from Kastrup, Copenhagen (Alletiders rejser) at Vasco da Gama airport, Dabolim, Goa at 3:45 pm. Transfer by bus to Chalston hotel at Calangute.
22 February 5:30 -10:30 Walk along the beach to the ariers north of the hotel and through Baga fields to the bridge over Baga river. Photographed different species at a red silk cotton tree. 13:00-18:00 - by taxa along Baga fields to "London bridge" at River Baga including a short stop at salt pans. Walk along the river and the coast.
23 February 7:00- 13:00 visit to Carambolim Lake in a foggy morning. Fort Aguada 13:30 - 14:30 with a short stop at the bridge over River Mandovi, Panjim. Beira Mar hotel 15:00 - 19:00
24 February Morji Beach (6:00 - 10:00.) Parshem, an area with tide close to River Chapora (10:30 - 15:30 ). A locale, which we did't know, from any triprapport, but told us by the driver.
25 February Visit to Chorao Island most of the day. Next to the ferry landing on the island we walked at east along the Mandova River and the marshy fields. Later in the mornig a short walk over the fields west of the church. 11:00 - 13:00 to the wiewpoint at the shrine on hilltop. Here we found a little shadow. Maem Lake 14:00 - 16:00
26 February Transfer from Calangute to Tambdi Surla (Back Woods camp) arrival 8:00 for a threedays overnight.
27 February Birding at Tambdi Surla from early morning to 19:30.
28 February Birding at Tambdi Surla from early morning to 20:00.
1 March Tambdi Surla from (8:00-16:00) Arrival Chalston hotel 18:30.
2 March Baga Hill (7:00 - 10:00) Indeed a foggy morning with high humidity.
Morji Beach 11:30 - 15:30. Parshem 16:00 - 18:30.
3 March 7:00 - 11:00 Walk around the hotel, the beach and Baga Filds. Chapora Habour14:30- 17:00 and to hotel Beira Mar 17:30- 19:00.
4 March Panjim Salt pans 7:30- 10:00. A short stop at Santa Cruz, then Dona Poula
and Aggasaim. 17:30-19:00 hotel Beira Mar.
5 March Carambolim Lake 9:00-17:00.
6 March Bondla 7:30- 17:00. Walk from the gate to Zoo.
7. March Birding from 7:00 - 11:00 in Baga fields. Only Einar was birding.
The other two were lasy.
Return flight 17:00 to Copenhagen.
Introducing Goa
Goa is a state within a state, with a unique, fourcentury-old Portuguese heritage which sets it apart from its partners in the vast patchwork of cultures, traditions and religions that is modern India.
The finest beaches on the subcontinent, a climate which is at its best when the European winter is at its worst and spand of accommodation which ranges from the cheapest of guesthouses to the most luxurios of resort hotels, have made this state on the Arabian Sea one of the world's fastest-growing tropical tourist destinations, attracting many holiday-makers every year. Citat: Robin Gauldie: "GOA and BOMBAY", Globetrotter.
But Goa is more than golden sands and winter sunshine. For birdwatchers Goa offers a very wide range of accessible habitats in a quit samll area. Lakes, Salt pans, mangroves, estuaries, tropical forest, beaches, dry filds etc. The resident Indian birds, including several found ounly in this region, are joined by winter visitors from far away, and many rarely seen species have been found in Goa.
Transportaition
Mostly the day before birdwatching we hired a taxi. Rates for a hole day 5:30 - 19:00 was 700 to 900 Rupees depending on service and kindness. Almost all drivers know the main sites for birdwatching.
Hotel
We stayed at hotel Chalston Cobra Vaddo, Calangute Tlf. 0091832276080. A familial hotel near the beach. The restaurant is laying direktly on the sand. From here you can se the Arabian Sea, but unfortunately there are a very few birds. Look for dolphins and other whales.
Areas visited and major species seen.
"The independent birders' guide" by Peter Harris is highly recommende. This booklet contains many detailed maps of all major birding spots in Goa exept "Parshem" not long from Morji Beach. This place is worth to wisit in low tide.
Baga Fields (BF) on February 22 and March 07.
Total 53 species seen. Comparatively few. But our birdig here was not optimal. To late we found out that this area contains many different habitats and therefore many birds too. Before noon on our last day March 07 only Einar was birding, and most of the birds listed here is from his notes.
Birds seen:
Little Cormorant, Little Heron, Indian Pond Heron, Cattle egret, Great white egret, Intermediate egret, Little egret, Wester reef heron, Black kite, Brahminy kite, Wite-bielled sea eagle, White-breasted waterhen, Pacific golden plover, Little ringed plover, Kentish plover, Common redshank, Marsh sandpiper, Greenshank, Wood sandpiper, Little stint, Spotted dove, Rose-ringed parakeet, Koel, Coucal, Palm swift, White-breasted kingfisher, Little green bee-eater, Brown-headed barbet, White-cheeked barbet, Malarbar crested lark, Red-rumped swallow, Longtailed shrike,
Golden oriol, Black drongo, Ashy drongo, Brahminy starling, Rosy starling, Jungle myna, Rufous treepie, House craw, White-browed bul bul, Plain prinia, Ashy prinia, Common tailorbird, Orietal magpie-robin, Stonechat, Pied bushchat, Tawny pipit, Purple-rumped sunbird, House sparrow, Chestnut-shouldered petronia, White-rumped munia, Black-throated munia.
Baga Hill (BH) One visit on March 02. A foggy and very warm morning. High humidity.
Booted eagle, Osprey, Spotted dove, Blossom-headed parakeet, Koel, Alpine swift, Palm swift, Brown-headed barbet, Golden oriol, Black-hooded oriol, Black drongo, White-throated fantail, Plain prinia, Oriental magpie-robin, Yellow-cheeked tit, Purple-rumped sunbird, Purple sunbird.
Beira Mar (BM) Late afternoon, on February 23 and March 02, 03
Behind the Hotel Beira Mar, the edges of Baga fields are rather marshy. The vegetaition here hides different species, which usually appear only at dusk. Some birdwatchers told that they'd stay here severel times hoping get a sight of Ruddy crake. On March 03 we vere lucky. From the swimming pool area of the hotel you have a good sight and the bar very close. It is real life to watch birds sitting with a cold Kingfisher.
Birds seen:
Indian pond heron, Cattle egret, Ruddy crake, White-breasted waterhen, Red-wattled lapwing, Pintail snipe, Painted snipe, Coucal, Spotted owlet, Little swift, Palm swift, White-breasted kingfisher, Black-caped kingfisher, Little green bee-eater, Golden oriol, Black drongo, Chestnut-tailed starling, Rosy starling, Jungle myna, Rofus treepie, House crow, Glamorous reed wabler, Oriental magpie-robin, Stonechat, Pied bushchatYellow wagtail, Grey wagtail, White browed wagtail, White rumped munia, Scaly-breasted munia.
Morji beach (MB), the Chapora Estuary and Chapora harbour (CH). Wisit on February 24, and March 02, 03.
River Chapora's Estuary has low islands and sandbanks. At its mouth is a tall rocky headland to the south, on which stands Chapora Fort, and wide sandy beach to the north. Just east of the Fort is the harbour of Chapora. A good place for different gulls, Brahminy Kite, Black Kite and Western reef heron. Especially when the fishermen are landing their catch.
Birds seen:
Grey heron, Little heron, Nigt heron, Western reef heron (both white and dark phases),Black kite, Brahminy kite, Booted eagle, Osprey, Red-wattled lapwing, Greater sandplower, Sanderling, Herring gull, Great black-headed gull, Brown-headed gull, Black-headed gull, Slender-billed gull, Gull-billed tern, Lesser crested tern, Sandwich tern, Coucal, Blue-tailed bee-eater.
Bondla (BL) One visit, on March 06.
Bondla with 8 square km represents by far the smallest of the three reserves in the Western Ghat Mountains (Cotigao Sanctuary in the south 86 square km and Mahaveer Sanctuary usually known as Molem in the east 240 square km of which Tambdi Surla is a part).
Early in the morning at 5:30 we started from our hotel whit a "newborn" taxidriver. It was an exciting experience, especially in the afternoon when we went back in a very heavy traffic with traffic jame. At 7:30 we arrived at the gate and then walk to the Zoo.
Birds seen:
Shikra, Greater spotted eagle, Green sandpiper, Grey fronted green pigeon, Stork-billed kingfisher, Little green bee-eater, Malarbar grey hornbill, Rufous woodpecker, Back-rumped flameback, Greater flameback, Brown-caped pygmy woodpecker, Hart-spotted woodpecker, Longtailed shrike, Black-hooded oriol, Ashy drongo, White-bellied drongo, Greater racket-tailed drongo, Brahminy starling, Jungle crow, Bar-winged flycatcher-shrike, Scarlet minivet, Small miniwet, Common iora, Golden-fronted leafbird, Red-breasted flycatcher (albicilla) Tickell's blue flycatcher, Asian paradise flycatcher, Greenish wabler, White-rumped shama, Orange-headed ground thrush, Purple sunbird, Common rosefinch.
Tambdi Surla (TS) A four-days visit on February 26 ,27 and 28; and on March 01.
During the four days we stayed in Tambdi Surla we noted 87 species. And we found how difficult birdwatching is in a jungle. We spent four days ( three nights) in "Backwoods Camp" in the forest approximate 3 km SW of temple Tambdi Surla. The camp is runed by three Indian birdguides: Zupeleio De Sourza (Leio), Pramods Madkaikar and Loven Pereira. You can book for three days (two nights) for 3500 Rupees per person include transportaition from your hotel and back, and all meals.
Address: BACK WOODS E-499, Travasso De cruz, 31st January Road, St.Tome, Panjim- Goa 403001, Ph 436109 Fax 91-832-224904. E.Mail: .
A stay here in Back Woods is highly recommended. Indeed it is a must!! Because of the many birds, the exellent guids, the good food and the pleasant atsmosphere.
Birds seen:
(Woolly) White-necked stork, Oriental Honey buzzard, Shikra, Crested goshawk, Chestnut-bellied hawk eagle, Black eagle, White-backed vultur, Crested serpent eagle, Kestrel (the only bird we saw on the trip), Red spurfowl, Grey junglefowl, Grey-fronted green pigeon, Mountain imperial pigeon, Oriental turtle dove, Spotted dove, Blossom-headed parakeet, Vernal haging parrot, Common kingfisher, Blue-eared kingfisher, White-breasted kingfisher, Chestnut-headed bee-eater, Little green bee-eater, Malabar grey hornbill, Malabar pied hornbill, Great pied hornbill, Crimson-fronted barbet, Lesser yellow-naped woodpecker, Black-rumped flameback, Greater flameback, White-bellied woodpecker, Hart-spotted woodpecker, Idian pitta, Malabar crested lark, Dusky crag martin, Asian house martin, Longtailed shrike, Golden oriole, Ashy drongo, White-bellied drongo, Bronzed drongo, Spangled drongo, Greater racekt-tailed drongo, Ashy woodswallow, Jungle crow, Bar-winged flycatcher-shrike, Large woodshrike, Common woodshrike, Large cuckooshrike, Black-headed cuckooshrike, Scarlet minivet, Small minivet, Golden-fronted leafbird, Fairy bluebird, Grey-headed bulbul, Black-crested bulbul, White-browed bulbul, Yellow-browed bulbul, Puff-throated babbler, Dark-fronted babbler, Jungle babbler,
Asian brown flycatcher, Brown-breasted flycatcher, Red-breasted flycatcher, Red-breasted flycatcher, White-bellied blue flycatcher, Tickell's blue flycatcher, Asian paradise flycatcher, Black-naped monarch, Common tailorbird, Greenish wabler, Western crowned wabler, Oriental magpie-robin, White-rumped shama, Blue-capped rock thrush, Malabar whistling thrush, Orange-headed ground thrush, Blackbird, Velvet-fronted nuthatch, Forest wagtail, Grey wagtail, Thick-billed flowerpecker, Plain flowerpecker, Crimson-backed sunbird, Loten's sunbird, Purple sunbird, Little spiderhunter, Chestnut-shouldered petronia.
Carambolim Lake (CL) Two visits, on February 23 and on March 05.
This lily-covered lake and its surroundings reminds you of Keoladeo National Park at Bharatpur especally because of the Purple Gallinule, and a lot of different waterbirds. The level of the lake is determined not only by the rains, but also by the local community. It is used as a reservoir for the paddyfields to the south of it. At this time, late February and March the lake is low and looks like a large green lawn. And we had been told that the plants which are growing very fast is a threat to the lake.
In the morning the east site of the lake is best for birdwatching. There is a footpath here and some wonderful big trees with shadow. From the embankment at south you too have a good view. From here the paddyfields can also be viewed.
Birds seen:
Little grebe, Little cormorant, Grey heron, Purple heron, Little heron, Indian pond heron, Cattle egret, Great white egret, Intermediate egret, Little egret, Western Reef heron, Asian openbill stork, Glossy ibis, Lesser whistling duck, Pintail, Spotbilled duck, Garganey, Shoveller, Cotton teal, Comb duck, Oriental Honey buzzard, Black kite, Brahminy kite, Booted eagle, Marsh harrier, Crested serpent eagle, Whit-breastede waterhen, Moorhen, Purple gallinule, Coot, Phesant-tailed jacana, Bronze-winged jacana, Red-wattled lapwing, Common sandpiper, Pintail snipe, Spotted dove, Rose-ringed parakeet, Common hawk cuckoo, Lesser pied kingfisher, Common kingfisher, White-breasted kingfisher, Little green bee-eater, Coppersmith barbet, Barn swallow, Wire-tailed swallow, Streak-throated swallow, Red-rumped swallow, Golden oriole, Ashy prinia, Greenish wabler, Oriental magpie-robin, Stonechat, Pied bushchat, Yellow-cheeked tit, Tawny pipit, Yellow wagtail, Citrine wagtail,Purple-rumped sunbird, Purple sunbird.
Chorao Island (CI) and Maem Lake on February 25.
Chorao Island between the two rivers Mandovi and Mapusa can be reached by the ferry from Ribander, west of Old Goa. The western part is covered with Goa's largest stand of mangroves. Here you find The Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary. If you want to visit this area you had to go in by boat because of the mud.
We made only one visit on February 25 from early in the morning to 14:00. After that we went to Maem Lake.
Next to the ferry landing on the island we walked at east along the Mandovi River and the marshy fields to the fish traps. From here we saw over 1500 Pintails on the water. Later in the morning a short walk over the fields west of the church towards the mangrove. In the distance we saw a Lesser Adjudant sitting in the top of a tree, and on the dry ground a lot of Little ringed plover. Two Brahminy kites sitting in a silk cotten tre with a blue sky in the background was a beautiful sight.
At noon we tryed to find some shadow bihind the shrine on hilltop at the north west part of the island.
At Maem Lake we visit a very dirty restaurant. But the local bread was perfect.
After that we walked along the lake for two hours.
Bird seen:
Little heron, Indian pond heron, Western Reef heron, Lesser adjutant, Pintail, Black eagle, White-bellied sea eagle ( to birds was sitting on stakes at Mandova River), Grey plover, Little ringed plover, Whimbrel, Common sandpiper, Gull-billed tern, Lesser pied kingfisher, Common kingfisher, White-breasted kingfisher, Little green bee-eater, Hoopoe, Golden oriole, Black-hooded oriole, Greater racekt-tailed drongo, Common iora, White-throated fantail, Ashy prinia, Oriental magpie-robin, Purple-rumped sunbird.
Panjim salt pans (PS) on March 04.
South to the river Mandovi between Panjim and Ribander lie the salt pans. There is a network op footpaths round the pans, and these can be accessed from the end of Panjim. The salt pans are good for waders at high tide when the birds are forced off the river margins.