Welcome to the 2012 Austin Sierra Club Thanksgiving Big Bend trip. Those of you who have been before know the special appeal of the mountain, desert, and river country that makes up the Big Bend. We will be visiting one of the largest and most remote national parks in the country. Since Big Bend contains over 1,200 square miles, many hiking trails, and an unlimited number of off-trail routes, it would require many months to fully explore the park, but we have planned hikes to many of the park's best features; the South Rim hike is widely considered to be the best hike in Texas!
Most of the park is near desert (the official annual rainfall is 13 inches; a true desert gets fewer than 10 inches). The central region is dominated by the Chisos Mountains and its very different mountain plants, animals, and environment. The Rio Grande (or Rio Bravo del Norte) lies on the southern border of the park and the United States.
The desert is full of life and each hike, whether it takes us through the desert or mountains, reveals several unique features. Plant and animal life are abundant in the desert and we will stop to look and listen for ourselves. Waxy leaves, surfaces for reduced evaporation, and thorns are characteristic of desert plants. Thorns may range from " to 3-4 inches. Some plants may contain long spikes; one such plant is the indicator plant of the Chihuahuan Desert, lechuguilla; it is not found anywhere else.
The Chisos Mountains are home to trees and plants which are very different the desert plants. Arizona cypress, oaks, junipers, pines, and madrones are abundant in the cool mountains. Bear and mountain lions sightings have been more frequent in recent years. You probably won't see either, but if you do you should keep your distance. If a bear should approach, you should yell loudly and wave your arms around in an attempt to look large to the bear. Do not run.
Getting There
We’ll travel to Big Bend in rented 15-passenger vans with the rear seats removed to accommodate 10 passengers and gear. Due to limited space, please restrict your gear to one large duffel bag and a day pack. The duffel bags will be loaded in the rear of the vans or in a covered trailer. Keep your daypack with you
in the van and keep a flashlight handy since some of the vans may be arriving in the dark. Each van will have a small cooler on board with limited space for food and drink and the vans will be stopping for gas/restroom breaks along the road. There will be one meal stop somewhere along the way. The van departure times from Austin will be determined by the van riders of each van. In recent years, we’ve often left early in the morning so we can arrive and set up our tents before it gets dark. Its 490 miles to the village campground, so it will take about 10 hours with a stop for a meal along the way, and it will get dark about 6 pm. Final van assignments and the points of departure will be set at the PRE-TRIP MEETING. Please email John Yarber at if you cannot attend this
important meeting.
At Camp
Our main campsite is the Rio Grande Village on the east side of the park, under large cottonwood trees and near the river. Potable water is available from spigots in camp. The restrooms have cold running water, sinks, toilets, and electrical outlets. Hot showers are available nearby at the park convenience store. Bring quarters for the $0.75 showers. Note: The store and showers are now open from 9:00 am to 8:00 pm.
Breakfast and dinner are prepared as group meals by trip participants and leaders. Everyone should sign up for three kitchen crew assignments. Each person prepares his/her lunch from the group lunch supplies.
Visits to the Hot Springs (15 minutes
away by van) will sometimes be offered before and/or after dinner. Park rules prohibit the use of soap in the springs, but a nightly soak is a great way to relieve tired muscles.
Alcohol is permitted in moderation and wine will be served with at least one meal. For those who enjoy socializing in the evening, please observe the park quiet hours from 10 pm to 8 am. Trips to the river to howl at the moon along with the coyotes are not an official part of the trip. Please be back by breakfast.
Weather
The official average minimum/maximum temperature as measured at Panther Junction (3750 ft) in November is 43/68 F. However, the possible temperature range is from below freezing to the 90s. Since there is always the possibility of a cold front coming through, you should be prepared for nighttime lows in the 20s. Be sure your sleeping bag is adequate for the cold nights. Although rain is unlikely (November averages about 0.70 inches), bring rain gear and make sure your tent has a rain fly. Hypothermia is no joke and a cold, wet, windy day can turn a good trip into misery and a health hazard.
About Those Hikes
Each day you will have a choice of 4 or 5 hikes. These hikes range greatly in distance and difficulty. All of the hikes are described below and more extensive descriptions can be found in any of several books about Big Bend. Some of the descriptions here are adapted from The Hiker's Guide to trails of Big Bend National Park, published by the Big Bend Natural History Association ($1.25), the Chisos Mountain Trails map and brochure put out by the same folks ($0.50), and Hiking Big Bend National Park by Laurence Parent. Study the hike descriptions and choose your hikes with care. If you are hesitant about a hike, talk to the hike leaders. Hiking groups will range in size from 4 to 12 people. Hikers are strongly encouraged to stay together. Individuals who choose to venture off may find themselves excused from the official hike group because the club cannot be liable for people the leaders cannot see. Even if you are an experienced hiker, please follow this rule. Your safety is our primary concern and that of the Club. The vans will leave at about 8:30 am each morning for the various hikes. Assigned cooking crews will begin preparing dinner upon return to camp.
The Hikes
First, a few important rules:
Follow the leader. Hike leaders are required by Club rules to dismiss hikers who refuse to remain with the hike group or to follow safety rules.
Pack out your litter. All of it. Pick up someone else's if you have room to carry it out.
Carry adequate water. Drink often, even if you don't feel thirsty. You will not be permitted to go on a hike without adequate water (at least 2 quarts per person for a half-day hike). It's also a good rule to drink up before you leave camp.
Stay on the trail. Big Bend has plenty of gullies; don't start any more by taking short cuts on switchback trails.
Hike Descriptions
Hot Springs Primitive trail (3.5 miles)- A scenic introduction to the desert and river country of the Big Bend. The trail leads past lechuaguilla, prickly pear, agave, sotol, and other desert plants to beautiful overlooks of Rio Grande canyons. The plant and animal life changes dramatically where the desert meets the river.
Rio Grande Village Nature trail (0.75 miles)- Beginning in the southeastern corner of the campground, this trail passes through dense, jungle-like vegetation in the river flood plain, then climbs abruptly into the arid desert environment. A high promontory provides panoramic views along the Rio Grande and south into Mexico. The rock at this point is Santa Elena limestone, the same formation which is in the Sierra del Carmen escarpment to the east. Down river is the Mexican village of Boquillas and Boquillas Canyon. Hot Springs Canyon and the Chisos mountains lie upriver.
This is an excellent spot to view the great sunsets.
Pine Canyon (4 miles) - The trail winds
Through a heavily wooded section where Mexican piñon, junipers, and oaks are common. You will find ponderosa pine, Texas Madrone, bigtooth maple and Emory and Graves oaks. The trail ends at the base of a 200 ft cliff that becomes a delightful waterfall after heavy rainstorms. Longspur columbines grow under tall oak and maple trees near the base of the intermittent waterfall. This trail requires us to drive a few miles down a rather primitive road to reach the trail, but it is well worth it. The views and fall colors are usually very good in the canyon. Highly recommended!
Boquillas Canyon (1 mile)- Close by the campground and offering a very good spot, near the river, for sunset views. The trail climbs over a low hill and drops down to the river near a group of Indian bedrock mortar holes. Just past this point is a huge sand slide formed by down-canyon winds that pile loose sand against the canyon wall on the Texas side, below a shallow cave. Its quite a pretty river canyon.
Ernst Tinaja/Carlota Tinaja (1 mile) - Walk up the canyon to the huge, natural tinaja (Spanish for "big earthen jar") that is carved into the massive limestone cliffs. Part of the Ernst Member of the Boquillas Formation, these cliffs consist of buff, yellow, gray and reddish-brown limestone and shales about 450 feet thick. Notice the fascinating layering along the canyon walls. Just above the tinaja is an even more impressive layering that has been tilted, contorted and broken by faulting. The tinaja itself holds water all year long. Continuing up the canyon requires some canyoneering skills as the walls get increasingly narrow.
Grapevine Hills (2 miles)- This trail leads into the heart of Grapevine Hills, following a sandy wash through massive granite boulders to a low pass at the south end of the drainage. You can find a picturesque "window" of boulders by following the trail another 100 yards along a ridge to the right of the pass. Geologically, Grapevine Hill is a laccolith, a mushroom-shaped igneous intrusion that domed the rocks above and was later exposed by erosion.
Marufo Vega (12 miles)- This trail starts across the paved road from the Boquillas Canyon Overlook, follows the drainage past two wooden towers along the right bank and then climbs a steep hill to a pass about one mile ahead At the top is a good view of Boquillas, Mexico. The trail continues up the ridge and then turns northeast into a rather broad, dissected valley. The trail offers some good views of the river and the Sierra del Carmen mountains.
Lost Mines (5 miles)- This trail serves as an excellent introduction to the plants and animals of the high Mountains. It starts at 5600 ft elevation and leads upward along the northern slope of Case Grande to a promontory high on the ridge separating Pine and Juniper canyons. From the end of the trail, at 6850 ft elevation, you can see upper Pine Canyon to the east, and Juniper Canyon far below to the southwest: the East Rim forms a high backdrop behind Juniper Canyon.
Casa Grande (5 miles)- This unmaintained trail branches off of the Lost Mine trail and continues steeply upward to reach the top of Casa Grande. The trail is closed from January to May to avoid disturbances of the peregrine falcon nests. There is a lot of risk to the hikers since the trail is very steep and the surfaces are very loose, including 100 feet of loose shale. Hikers will usually receive some cuts and bruises from passing close to cactus thorns and plants. The views at the top are quite spectacular, with dramatic cliffs on most sides of the peak. This hike is suitable for experienced hikers only, due to the degree of difficulty. Gloves are recommended.
Boot Spring (10 miles) - Starting at the Basin Trailhead, this trail follows Boot Canyon up to the junction with Emory Peak Trail. The spring itself is located at about the center of Boot Canyon; a little flat above the spring contains a cabin and corral. The Boot Canyon area contains numerous interesting plants and animals, many of which are not found elsewhere in the US, including the Colima warbler. The upper parts of the trail wind through beautiful stands of Piñon pine and oaks. The top of the trail offers an excellent overlook into Boot Canyon and a great view of the Boot itself.
Emory Peak (7 miles) - This trail leads to the highest point in Big Bend National Park - elevation 7,835 ft. The last 15 feet require a scramble up a sheer rock wall, but the view is superb in all directions. Boot Canyon lies along the south side of the peak and Laguna Meadow is situated at the base of the talus slope to the west. The antenna and other instruments at the summit are part of Big Bend's two-way radio system. The equipment is powered by solar cells.
South Rim of the Chisos Mountains (13 miles) or South and East Rims (14 miles) - A long loop hike with many interesting highlights, this trail is one of the finest in the park. Few other hikes in Texas can surpass the quality and sheer quantity of views along the trail. A steep and rocky trail with several switchbacks ascends from the Basin on the Pinnacles Trail. The trail levels out for a breather at Juniper Flats and Boulder Meadow, but generally keeps climbing at a moderate but unrelenting grade. After switching back steeply up the rocky wall of the Basin, the trail tops out with great views back down the way you came. After reaching the top, the trail starts down a tributary of Boot Canyon. At the 3 mile mark is the junction with the Emory Peak Trail which leads to the highest point in the park (see Emory Peak description) Boot Canyon is oneof the lushest areas inthepark with Arizona cypress, bigtooth maple, and even a few Ponderosa pines and Douglas firs. Just past Boot Canyon, the trail forks off to the East Rim. The trail continues on for spectacular views of the East and South Rims. Shortly after the junction with the Blue Creek Ranch trail, the trail passes through Laguna Meadow, a lush , grassy valley with scattered pines and junipers. After the meadow, the trail begins the long descent into the basin. The South Rim is often considered to be the best hike in Texas!!
The Window (5 miles) - The trail descends through an open area of grasses and chaparral into shaded Oak Creek Canyon. A variety of birds may be seen and heard in these different habitats. The canyon narrows down, and the trail eventually gives way to polished bedrock. The view of the desert from the narrow rock Window is impressive, and the sunset view from the Window is legendary as uniquely Big Bend. On the return hike, Casa Grande forms an impressive backdrop.
Burro Mesa Pouroff (1 mile) - This is an easy primitive hike which leads to a narrow box canyon to the right. The canyon offers much to those interested in the geology of Big Bend. Burro Mesa is a downfaulted block, a large landmass that dropped along a fault line about 26 million years ago from the same rock which is found at the top of Emory Peak. The darker volcanic rock at the top of the canyon is Burro Mesa rhyolite. The thick yellow band beneath it is the Wasp Spring flow breccia. The tall, white formation which is exposed on the right of the trail is volcanic tuff. The pour-off is a long, narrow chute which has been formed from sudden rainstorms rushing through Javelina Wash.
Blue Creek Ranch (3 miles) - This trail passes from high woodlands through sotol grasslands, along the oak-covered canyon bottom, and into the drier desert grasslands. The trail originally was built by ranchers to move sheep from a lower winter range to the cooler, higher summer range. The myriad pinnacles and balanced rocks are collectively called Red Rocks Canyon. The hike will end at this point unless the group should want to continue on through the dry but rocky creek bed to the higher elevations.
Cattail Falls (4 miles) - This trail begins on the desert-side of the Window . It follows a small butte decorated with cactus leading down to a streambed hidden by rock ledges and trees. The trail continues along the streambed to a box canyon where the falls drop 30 feet into a pool. The wall behind the falls displays a unique color pattern.
Chimneys Trail (5 miles) - The trail follows an old roadway to a series of chimneys - high rock outcrops that are visible to the west of Kit Mountain. Indian petroglyphs can be found on the walls of the southernmost chimneys, and the remains of shelters used by herders and a large earthen tank are located nearby. You can have views far into the distance by climbing on top of the Chimneys.