Presented By: WCHS Staff

(509) 332-3422

Vision and Mission Statements

Vision Statement:

Out of deep respect for companion animals, WCHS provides a modern, humane sheltering facility for homeless pets, affordable spay/neuter program, adoption services for homeless animals, and community education and opportunities for community service.

Mission Statement:

WCHS values the human/animal bond, provides stewardship for homeless pets and promotes compassionate treatment of all companion animals.

Some of our programs and services

·  Adoptions

·  Hope Fund

- The Hope Fund is designated for veterinary care of injured shelter (un-owned) animals in the Pacific Northwest, or approved by the selection committee. It provides necessary veterinary care (including surgery), foster care and rehabilitation for treated animals until an adoptive home is found. The fund is completely self-sustaining by donations from the public.

·  SNAP Program
- The Spay Neuter Assistance Program (SNAP) provides financial assistance to pet owners in Whitman County for the spaying and/or neutering of their dogs and/or cats. WCHS reimburses participating veterinarians 75% of the cost, up to $50. Financial support for the SNAP program is generated through private donations and special fundraising efforts in which the revenue is specifically earmarked for the SNAP program.

·  Microchipping

·  Lost & Found Pet Postings

Shelter Information

Staff Hours at the Shelter:

Tuesday-Sunday 8:30am-5:30pm

Monday 8:30-11:30 and 3:30-4:30

When WCHS is Open to the Public:

Tuesday-Sunday 1:00pm-5:30pm

Closed Monday

Volunteer Shifts

·  Based on first come first serve basis; if there is a blank spot you can write your name down

·  1 NAME PER LINE; unless a parent and child come in together

·  To sign up you can come in and write your name down, call us and we’ll write it down, or email us and we will write it down

·  IF YOU CANNOT MAKE A SHIFT CALL US IN ADVANCE AND LET US KNOW

·  If you miss 2 shifts without letting us know, you will be asked to not come back anymore.

Example:

Tuesday 4/14

8:30-11:00am ______

1:00-3:00pm ______

3:30-5:30pm ______

Volunteer General Do’s:

- Do wear closed toed shoes at all times

-  Do direct visitor questions to the shelter staff

-  Do use hand sanitizer between interacting with animals in different enclosures

-  Do notify shelter staff if anything makes you feel uncomfortable

-  Do ask questions

-  Do shut all gates behind you

And Don’ts:

- Don’t approach/ pet any new animals without staff permission

Dog Do’s and Don’ts:

-  Do wait for the dogs to be quiet before you interact with them

-  Don’t bend/hover over dogs

-  Do pay attention to dog body language and react accordingly (staff can help you)

-  Don’t give dogs in group living treats without staff permission

-  Do use positive reinforcement ONLY when interacting with the dogs

-  Don’t allow visitors into dog enclosures

-  Do direct visitors to staff if they need assistance

-  Don’t assume that all dogs are the same, they are each individuals

-  Do understand that shelter dogs come from many different backgrounds

-  Don’t open the gates located in the outside play areas unless directed to by staff

-  do open the gates TOWARDS the dogs, allowing yourself to SLIDE into their enclosure without letting them out

-  Don’t play tug with the shelter dogs

-  Do ask any questions you have about training

-  Don’t push dogs past their tolerance threshold

Cat Do’s and Don’ts:

-  Do use hand sanitizer before, between, and after each of the cages

-  Don’t push cats past their tolerance threshold

-  Do use cat toys and treats to help socialize the cats

-  Don’t introduce cats that have not already interacted

Dog Walking

·  If a volunteer is interested in walking a dog, you MUST talk with a staff member first

o  The Staff will show you how to walk the shelter dogs using our training methods for consistency, and which dogs need it the most.

o  The shelter dogs are always in training so it is VERY important that everyone follows the rules so they continue to learn and improve certain behaviors, making them more adoptable.

o  The program we use is called OPEN PAW. It is highly suggested to read through the handout if you want to walk/train with our dogs.

o  SAFTEY FIRST!

Often WCHS dogs will come into the shelter with little to no leash experience. If a staff member denies your request to walk a dog please do not take it personally

LEVEL 1 DOGS:

VOLUNTEER GUIDELINES

Level 1 is essential to our goal: increasing the adoptability of resident dogs! Please continue to do level 1 exercises every time you visit, even if you’ve moved on to higher levels! We will use these basic classical conditioning (forming positive associations) and reward training techniques to achieve god behavior, manners and temperament, and to get the dogs to like all sorts of people; the ultimate goal is a totally quiet kennel! Please carry a leash with you at all times to desensitize the dogs to seeing people with leashes.

Forming Positive Associations (Classical Conditioning)

Use classical conditioning to teach resident dogs to enjoy people approaching their kennel. The dog will progressively form a positive association to people and look forward to seeing people approach the kennel; the dog will then be less inclined to bark, lunge, growl or hide.

· Do approach the kennel and toss or hand-feed kibble to the dog, REGARDLESS of the dog’s reaction.

· DO NOT hover, pressure or encourage the dog to come forward, and DO NOT request any specific behavior.

Reward Training

Use reward-training techniques to teach resident dogs proper kennel presentation, specifically to sit and shush when people approach. On each visit, approach the kennel and stand outside to observe the dog; patience is the key! Wait, WITHOUT saying anything, until the dog does something you like. Then reward the praise and a piece of kibble. Please keep in mind the adoptable traits we are looking to reinforce. (e.g., friendly approach, eye contact, sitting, lying down, silence, etc.) If a dog stops barking or stops bouncing around for a least 3 seconds, reward it.

· DO identify and reward desirable doggy behavior with a piece of kibble.

· DO NOT make a verbal request for a specific position, call the dog or lure him into position.

· DO keep your eyes and ears open for opportunities, particularly with barking dogs: if you hear a dog begin to bark, continue to work at what you were doing, but pay attention for the moment when the dog stops barking (and he will eventually stop). Then hurry over and throw a party!

Shush

We can also actively teach a dog to shush:

· DO put the barking on command, so that you can work with the dog when she doesn’t particularly want to bark.

· DO ask the dog to bark when she is fairly calm and praise her for doing so; then ask her to “shush” and waggle a treat in front of her nose. When she stops to sniff, offer the treat and praise the dog.

· DO repeat this sequence many times- no matter how long it took the dog to shush the first time, it will get shorter and shorter with repetition!

Level 1 Safety

Always read the kennel card and behavior notes BEFORE interaction with ANY resident animal, and please works only with animals designated for, or below, your level of training. Never stick your whole arm or hand through the kennel fence. Remember to follow your local facility’s guidelines (such as dress code) for safety when interacting with the animals.

LEVEL 2 DOGS:

VOLUNTEER GUIDELINES

The goal of level 2 is to desensitize the dog to seeing the leash and to people entering the kennel. This will decrease the likelihood of overexcited displays like jumping, mouthing, pawing, etc. The focus of level 2 training is to teach the dog to display appropriate manners while a person enters and exits the kennel, to teach the dog to sit politely while his collar and leash are attached, and not to jump up.

Entering the Kennel

·  Do wait for (or lure) the dog to sit before opening the kennel door. If the dog jumps up as you are lifting the door latch, step back and wait for him to sit again before attempting to enter.

·  Do repeat this process as many times as necessary until the dog remains sitting while you open the door and enter the kennel. Practice makes perfect!

·  Do Not push the dog aside with your arm or leg as you squeeze in.

·  Do Not open the door and enter the kennel while the dog is jumping up, pushing to get past you or barking.

Once Inside

·  Do wait for the dog to calm down again before interacting with him (i.e., ignore jumping, etc.)

·  Do wait for (or lure) the dog to sit before putting on the collar/gentle leader or attaching the leash.

·  Do start over every time the dog breaks position.

·  Do repeat this process several times in a session.

·  Do Not put on collar/ gentle leader OR attach the leash while he is standing or jumping.

·  Do Not physically push the dog into position.

Exiting the Kennel

·  Do lure the dog to sit and back out carefully OR toss a few pieces of kibble to the far side of the run and slip out backwards.

·  Do always face the dog when entering and exiting the kennel.

Level 2 Safety

Enter and exit the kennel quickly and carefully, ad always keep your eye on the dog. Be sure that your dog’s equipment fits properly. We recommend practicing level 2 with partner; consult your local facility for guidelines. Once inside the kennel, NEVER turn your back on the dog. If you are feeling overwhelmed, shout for help. In an emergency, toss all of your kibble AWAY from you, scattering it over the floor, and exit promptly.

LEASH ETIQUETTE FOR SHELTER DOGS

GOAL: Our focus is to walk the dogs safely and comfortably through the shelter and on the street. Training shelter dogs to walk on a loose leash may increase their chance of being adopted. It is more fun taking a stroll in the park with a dog that does not pull on leash than with a dog that has no leash manners. We hope to teach our dogs that there should always be slack in the leash. We control how much freedom (leash length) the dog has, but no matter the leash length, the dog is taught not to pull into the leash.

EQUIPMENT: Shelter dogs are fitted with a no-slip collar, also known a Martingale collar. Some might need a head halter, like a gentle leader. Others might be fitted with easy-walk harnesses. All the necessary training equipment is stored in the dog’s designated area. Leashes shouldbe4-6 feet long. Do not use a retractable leash.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR MANAGING DOGS ON LEASH INSIDE THE SHELTER:

1.  Have treats and the necessary training equipment with you when entering the kennel.

2.  Use the Kennel Protocol (see document) beforeputting on the dog’s equipment.

3.  Dogs are walked on the left side.

4.  Have both hands on the leash at all times except when feeding the dog a treat.

5.  Keep the handle of the leash in your right hand, thumb through the loop. Fasten the rest of the handle in your right fist, or slide your right hand through the loop holding the leash. The right hand is your “anchor”.

6.  The left hand is the hand closest to the dog. Use your left hand to control the length of the leash. You also dispense treats to the dog with your left hand.

7.  The dog is kept close to your left side when going in and out kennels, through the shelter rooms, and hallways. When needed (for dogs who lunge at other dogs or cats), keep the dog distracted with a treat, peanut butter on a spoon, or a toy.

8.  If another dog is being walked down the hallway, wait until the dog is out of sight before you enter the space with your shelter dog.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR WALKING DOGS ON LEASH OUTSIDE THE SHELTER:

1.  Once outside the shelter, give the dog a chance to eliminate. “stand like a tree”; Don’t engage with the dog and give the dog enough leash to sniff.

2.  Keep both hands on the leash. The left hand controls the length of the leash. The right hand is the lifeline holding the leash loop.

3.  Praise the dog and reward him every now and then if he is walking on a loose leash by your side. Loose leash means that there is slack in the lead and the leash is forming a letter “U” or “J”.

4.  Always reward the dog at your left side, facing the same direction you are. In time, the dog will start gravitating towards where the treats are dispensed.

5.  “Give and Go”. The instant that the dog starts forging ahead, release the leash from the left hand, turn abruptly and go the opposite direction. Ask the dog to follow you with a “Let’s go” as you are turning. “Let’s go” means “catch up with me” or “keep up with me”. When the dog is back on your left side facing the same direction as you are, take the leash back with your left hand, while simultaneously praising and rewarding the dog for keeping up with you. Once you are walking forward, be prepared for another “give and go”, as soon s the dog starts to move ahead of you.

6.  Some dogs tend to cross in front. If the dog begins to cut you off, turn into the dog (to your left) and walk in the opposite direction. As you turn cue the dog with a “Let’s go”.

HELPFUL HINTS:

·  Before the walk, some dogs might need a short play session t burn off some energy.

·  A few attention exercises, like “look” will encourage the dog to focus on the handler. Bring a treat from the dog’s nose up to your eyes, saying “look”. If he makes eye contact following your hand, mark the behavior with a click or a “yes” and reward the dog with the treat.