Textile Fiber and Fabric Production

Fibers

The conversion process

______refers to any material that can be made into fabric by any method

oTextile Industry covers the entire apparel industry: production and marketing from raw material to the retail store.

Fibers

______

Fabrics

______

Production and Marketing Chain [insert chain]

Fibers

Hair-like materials which form the ______elements of fabrics and other textiles

All fiber producers must fill consumer needs

o, moisture regain, elasticity, , or crimp

Classified as

o______fibers

Natural Fiber Production

Natural Fiber Categories

Natural Fibers

oPlants –______

Cotton

Flax

oAnimals –______

Wools

Silk

Cotton

World’s major fiber

o______is leading country; US is second

oCotton Belt: 17 ______states

Vegetable fiber

oGrows best in ______and subtropical climates

Fiber grows in ______(green pods)

oOnce ripe and open - ready to be picked

Manufacturing

oBased on production system used and quality of ______desired

o______: an operation that separates the fiber from the seed.

Cotton Production Process

Grows

______

Ginned

oSeparating the fiber from the seed

______

Carded (straightening the fibers)

Combed

oRemoves short fibers, resulting in a smooth, uniform yarn

Quality Factors

Quality determines end use and price

o______

oStrength

oFineness

oMaturity

o______

Why cotton?

Washable

______

oWrinkle-resistant properties have been added

Absorbent

oAbsorbs ______easily

oAbsorbs ______, which makes you feel cool in hot, humid weather

Can be light or heavy weight

oLight and sheer (______and batiste)

oHeavy and thick (corduroy, ______, and chenille)

oStrong and sturdy (______)

Flax

Flax is made from the fibrous material in the ______of the flax plant.

oFiber is flax and the fabric is ______

Linen is the ______known textile

oDates back to the stone age

Stem of plant

Length of fiber affects ______

______% is grown in Russia

o______is the largest producer in the Western world.

France and Belgium grow the best flax

Cool summer clothing

Flax processes

______

Removal of adhesive substances and flax seeds that bind fibers together

Breaking

______

Fibers are separated from the outer bark and woody inner core of the stem

______/combing

Ramie

Ramie is a ______

fiber similar to flax

oGrows best in subtropical climate

Stronger than ______

Imported from India, China, and the Philippines

Smooth, lustrous appearance

______% ramie very difficult to spin

oBrittle, often mixed with cotton to soften

Wool

______and renewable resource

Absorbs up to 30% of weight in moisture

Returns to natural position after stretching

______

Resistant to wrinkling

Thermal properties means warmth

Absorbs dye easily

Other fibers classified in the wool family

Specialty wools

______

Camel’s hair

Cashmere

______

Llama

______

Vicuna

Wool cleaning process

Scoured

______

Combed

oWoolens

o______

Silk

Only natural fiber considered a ______filament

______is secreted from head and wound around the silk worm to form a cocoon

Silk is steeped and boiled in soap baths to remove sticky substance and allow unwinding

Triangular and reflects light

______properties

oCool in summer and warm in winter

Drapes well

Types of Silk

______silk

Wild or Tussah silk

______silk

Schappe and bourette silks

High-Tech Natural Fibers

______Silk

oTo capture strength of spider filaments for use in fabrics

oNexia Biotechnologies (Montreal, Canada)

______Fiber

oA protein found in cows milk

oToyobo of Japan

The following are in the experimental stages of development today:

oFibers from the sasawashi leaf, lenpur, ______, and soybean

Man-Made Fibers

The Industry of Man-Made Fibers

Dominated by large ______companies

Industry requires mass production for purposes of efficiency

Strong competition from ______

Requires marketing of fiber product to consumers

Blended with ______fibers to achieve final product with positive characteristics of both fibers

Man-Made Fiber Production

Extruded from a ______solution of cellulose (purified ______pulp) or from chemical raw material

oThen converted to a liquid state

Raw materials are converted into ______, chips, ______, or pellets

oThen dissolved in a solvent, melted with heat, or ______converted into a syrupy liquid and pumped through tiny holes of a spinneret

______- the process of extrusion and hardening

Man-Made Fibers

Origins as replacement for expensive fibers (silk)

Two types:

o______

oSynthetic

The MM Cellulosic fibers

Rayon

______

Triacetate

Rayon

Sourced from wood pulp, cotton linters,

______matter dissolved

Formed into fibers (process discussed later)

Expensive to produce to environmental standards, limited worldwide production

Led to development of ______

Synthetic Fibers

Also known as ______fibers

o______

oPolyester

oAcrylic

o______

oPolypropylene

Nylon

Strong

______

Flexible

______

Colorfast

Polyester

Most popular

______resistant

Easy care

Often blended with

natural

______

Forms

oFilament

o______

oTow- short or broken fiber

Acrylic

High bulk-to-weight ratio

Provides ______

______, fleece active wear, ______, coats, and fake furs

Spandex

Unequaled elasticity

Does not ______

Usually blended in amounts of ______%

Swimwear, hosiery, activewear

High-Tech Man-Made Fibers

Companies such as ______, Nomex, and Zylon

oStrong of have high-temperature resistance

oFor use in the ______, firefighters, outdoor recreation and apparel

New generation of synthetic fibers based on ______and biodegradable materials instead of oil

______(polyactic acid)

oGeneric classification for ______-based polymer

oCross between natural and man-made fiber

Generic and Brand Identification

US Federal Trade Commission assigns all new fibers a ______name

Brand Name or ______is an identifiable symbol

The Textile Fibers Products Identification Act

oAll textile products must follow the law

oIn general,

Use of generic fiber name

In ______descending order

______are specialty fibers for special occasions

Textile Yarn and Fabric Producers

Textile Mills

Mills are the producers of ______

May sell ______(pronounced gray) goods to converters to be finished or produce both

Small mills specialize in one fabric

______Mills

oGrowth of firms forward or backward into the production or marketing chain

Mills increase purchasing of the latest technology to offset the low ______cost advantage of importing

Most US mills are suited to ______-volume production

oIn recent years due to competition from imports, many have begun to do small runs and more design changes

Converters

Only do ______stages of production

Fewer converters exist due to importing of goods

Large companies do their ______conversion

Numbers are declining

May ______outside USA

Source- finding the best quality goods at the best price

Yarn Production

Filament Yarn Processing

o______Filament: twisted in a specialized silk spinning process

o______Filament: textured to provide bulk, loft, or elasticity

______is a process used on filament yarn to change the shape or characteristic into some form of crimp, curl, or coil

Spinning Staple Fibers

______Fibers

oCotton, flax, wood

oEach fiber has its own ______system

oGives them strength to withstand the spinning process

______Fibers

oCut into staple and spun on the same conventional spinning system used for cotton or on a new high-speed system to make yarn

Fabric Production

Fabric

A cloth or material made from yarns

Most popular

oWovens

o______

oBonding

o______

oLaminating

Weaving

Interlacing of warp and ______(filling) yarns

o______is a process which yarns are wound onto a beam

Warp yarns run ______, parallel to selvage (the edge of the fabric)

Weft yarns are filling yarns and run perpendicular to selvage

Loom speed and weave complexity are inversely related

Warp yarns separate alternately (called ______) to allow the filling yarns to interlace with them as they pass through the warp.

Plain weaves

One warp over one weft

Most ______

Easy to manufacture

Twill weaves

______passes over a number of warp yarns

Repetition shifts each weft row

Diagonal weave created

______

Denim most popular

Satin Weave

One warp over a number of warp yarns

Floats create ______, luster

Floats susceptible to damage

Creating Patterns in Wovens

Yarn-dye Patterns:

oDistinguished differently from prints because the patterns appear on ______sides of the fabric

Plaids, stripes and checks

May also be produced by reversing the direction of the weave in certain areas or in alternate rows (______)

Variations of the 3 basic weaves are called ______weaves

______:

oCam, dobby, or Jacquard looms

Knits

______continuous yarn or combination of yarns

Loops drawn through other loops

Stretch depends upon ______, yarn construction, and knit production

______= number of needles per inch, the more needles the finer and closer knit the loops

o______-cut machine has 10 needles per inch

o5-cut machine with 5 needles per inch is the most common

Warp and Weft knitting are the ______basic methods of ______fabric

Weft Knitting

Loops run ______across width of fabric

oMade on either a flatbed or circular machine

______machines produce single or double knits

Generally more stretch

______most popular

Variations on Jersey Knit

Purl-knit: reverse side of jersey; sweater knits

______-knit: distinctive lengthwise rib on both sides of the fabric for added stretch

Interlock: looks like jersey on both sides of the fabric

Knit and welt: front and back beds of the knitting machines to create a welt

______Jacquard: pattern on the face side

Full Jacquard: full pattern on the face side, simple pattern on the back

______: include tuck stitches, miss stitches, and pointelles

Nonwoven Fabrics

Nonwoven (______) fabrics are made by bonding or interlocking fibers, filaments, or yarns into a web or sheet by

oMechanical (pressure, needle punch, or needle tufting),

o______

oThermal (heat)

o______

oSolvent

Examples include nonwoven interfacings and nonwoven felt

Production Centers

______produces the most woven woolen apparel fabrics

oItaly is next

Hong Kong produces the most woolen knitwear (varies year to year)

o______

oChina

oItaly

Better ______come from Italy and Switzerland

The US produces more ______than any other country

oLargest cotton producer is ______, followed by eastern Europe, India and then the US

______- Italy

oBelgium

oNorthern Ireland

oFrance, China and Poland

Dyeing

Dyeing

Most lustrous and most ______to least (follows the production process)

oProducer colored-dyed in chemical solution

o______dyed-in raw fiber form

oYarn dying

oPiece dying-fabric

o______dying

oAlso: cross dyeing

Printing

Printing

Wet Printing

oEngraved roller printing

o______printing

Flatbed Screen Printing

Rotary Screen Printing

Dry printing

o______/Paper printing

Digital Printing

Finishing

Finishing

Processes used to enhance the fabric

o______

oAppearance

o______

Physical means

Chemical means

Physical Means

______

Heat setting

Napping

Shearing

______/sueding

Shrink control

Chemical methods

Caustic reduction

______

Durable press

______

______repellency

Other Finishes

Flame retardant

______light resistance

Fade resistance

Mildew resistance

______resistance

Stain resistance

Eco-Friendly Fibers

Environmental Concerns

New emphasis on ______measures

New standards for production

______of fibers

R&D activities

______passed to consumers

Countries vary in requirements

Textile Fiber and Fabric Production