Starting and finishing lace
My beginner patterns at http://gwydir.demon.co.uk/jo/lace/begin.htm explain exactly how and where to start these simple patterns. The other patterns require you to work out how to start them yourself. First, decide what shape the start should be.
Shape of start: You can have a diagonal, a point or a horizontal line.
Starting strip: Possible starts:
A diagonal start may tend to curl at the point. Points and horizontal lines are more robust. However, diagonal lines are easier to work out how many bobbins you need.
Filling in after start line: You can’t just draw a starting line anywhere. It’s OK to start anywhere on simple ground or on the edge of most shapes, but there can be problems elsewhere. You can’t start in the middle of a spider, or diagonally across a diamond, for example. The starts above have either done a line of ground stitches next to the start of the spider, or, for the horizontal start, there are extra ground stitches just to start off the pattern. This can be done anywhere, and in fact makes an attractive start to the pattern.
Number of bobbins: This often worries beginners, but it’s quite simple. A normal pin has the same number of threads arriving at a pin as leaving it (for Torchon, usually 2 pairs in, 2 pairs out). For starting pins, either there is 1 pair in and 2 pairs out, or no pairs in and 2 pairs out. The threads have to come from somewhere! So if there is 1 pair in and 2 pairs out (diagonal start and pointed start), you will need to hang an extra pair from that pin. If there are no pairs into the pin and 2 pairs out (horizontal start), then you will need 2 extra pairs from that pin. You will also need 2 pairs at the point pin of the pointed start. The edge needs more care, as there are the footside passives to think about, and it might not be obvious where the actual edge of a headside is. But once you start to work the lace, either you will have enough pairs at each pin to make the stitch, or you won’t – in which case, hang another pair!
Looping starting pairs: If you are stating by hanging two pairs from a pin, then it is a good idea to make sure that they are looped round each other. Hang the 2 pairs and make sure they are in order, then twist the middle two bobbins twice (one from each pair). This will loop them together, and make sure they are back in order. Check it by gently lifting one pair and see if it has caught the other. If you don’t do this, then when you remove the pairs the two loops of thread will separate, which makes the start looser and doesn’t look so nice.
False start: Sometimes you hang a starting pair from a pin, then discover that you need that pinhole to make a stitch. You can take that pin out to make the stitch, then put it back again, but you have the pair of bobbins hanging from it which tend to drag it out of shape. It’s easier to make a row of pinholes above the real starting row of holes. Hang the bobbins from these false start pins, work the first row, then remove the false start pins and gently pull the loops through, which will make a neat start.
Lines of cloth stitch: If you find that the start of your lace is too floppy, then you can do several rows of cloth stitch before you start the pattern (see right). This works well, especially for a horizontal line start.
Finishing lace - shapes: The shape of the finish can be a diagonal, point or horizontal, like the start. You can mix them, such as a point at the top and a horizontal line at the end. You either draw a line across the lace where the pattern allows it, or draw a line and fill in the awkward area with simple ground stitches, like the start. If you did a few lines of cloth stitch at the start, then you can do the same at the end, if you wish, to balance the start and finish.
Working a finish: Starting lace is easy – hang a pair on a pin. But you have think how you’re going to cut off the bobbins at the end. You can just cut the threads and allow it to unravel a bit. Lace is sold by length and it just gets cut, after all. But that means you lose a little of your hard work! It is more usual to tie the threads together, usually at a pin. There are two knots for doing this. The reef knot (see left) means a knot parallel to the end of the lace, and if you trim it carefully, the knot will be almost invisible. Or you can do an overhand know (see right) and make a feature. The knots make a small fringe at the end of the lace.
Making a mat: If you make a mat, then you need to decide where you start working it. Work the lace up to a corner, taking out the pins as usual, but leaving a couple of rows of pins right at the start. Push these pins up to the heads, or they may catch on future threads. When you get to the corner, turn the pillow through a right angle, and carry on working. When you get to the end, the finish of the lace should end up in the same place as the beginning. Now unwind a bobbin, thread the end through a needle, and use that to get it through the corresponding start loop at the pinhole. Tie that to the other thread in the pair with a reef knot.
For more info see http://gwydir.demon.co.uk/jo/lace/start.htm or http://gwydir.demon.co.uk/jo/lace/corners.htm