Revision of Kenya Standards

KENYA STANDARDKS 08-1532: PART 1: 1999

ICS 59.080.01; 61.020

Code of Practice for inspection and acceptance criteria for used textile

products (Mitumba)

Part 1. Garments

No copying of this standard without KEBS permission except as permitted by copyright law

REVISION OF KENYA STANDARDS

In order to keep abreast of progress in industry, Kenya Standards shall be regularly reviewed. Suggestions for improvements to published standards, addressed to the Managing Director, Kenya Bureau of Standards, are welcome.

© Kenya Bureau of Standards, 1999

Copyright. Users are reminded that by virtue of section 6 of the Copyright Act, Cap. 130 of the Laws of Kenya, copyright subsists in all Kenya Standards and except as provided under section 7 of this Act, no Kenya Standard produced by Kenya Bureau of Standards may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system in any form or transmitted by any means without prior permission in writing from the Managing Director.

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ISBN 9966-23-426-8

KENYA STANDARD KS 08-1532: PART 1: 1999

ICS 59.080.01; 61.020

Code of Practice for inspection and acceptance criteria for used textile

products (Mitumba)

Part 1. Garments

KENYA BUREAU OF STANDARDS (KEBS)

Head Office: P.O. Box 54974, Nairobi-00200, Tel.: (+254 020) 605490, 602350, Fax: (+254 020) 604031

E-Mail: , Web:

Coast RegionLake Region North Rift Region

P.O. Box 99376, Mombasa-80100P.O. Box 2949, Kisumu-40100 P.O. Box 2138, Nakuru-20100

Tel.: (+254 041) 229563, 230939/40Tel.: (+254 057) 23549, 22396 Tel.: (+254 051) 210553, 210555

Fax: (+254 041) 229448Fax: (+254 057) 21814

©KEBS KS 08-1532: PART 1: 1999

P R E F A C E

This Part 1 of this Kenya Standard has been prepared under the guidance of the National Standards Council.

Used garments have been in the Kenyan market for quite sometime now selling alongside the new garments. In the recent past the proportion of used imported garments sold in the Kenyan market has become quite significant, reducing the market share of new garments from the textile industries tremendously.

To ensure that the consumer gets quality textile goods in an even playground and to stop Kenya from becoming a dumping ground for worn out and worthless textile products, a Code of Practice for inspection and acceptance criteria has become necessary. This Part 1 of this Kenya Code of Practice lays down conformity criteria for used garments and requirements of the relevant Kenya Standards, including other requirements on microbiological examinations, packaging, sampling and acceptance. Appendix A specifies serious, major and minor defects for the purposes of inspection.

KENYA STANDARD

CODE OF PRACTICE FOR INSPECTION AND ACCEPTANCE CRITERIA FOR

USED TEXTILE PRODUCTS (MITUMBA)

PART 1. GARMENTS

1.SCOPE

This Part 1 of this Kenya Standard prescribes a code of practice for the inspection and acceptance criteria for used garments.

2.APPLICATION

This Part 1 of this Kenya Standard applies to used garments of all types, sizes and fibre composition. It also applies to used neckties, leather garments, headgear and belts.

3.DEFINITIONS

For the purpose of this Part 1 of this Kenya Standard the following definitions shall apply:

3.1used garment — A garment which has been used previously and that is likely to be offered to a subsequent user.

3.2defect — A departure of a quality characteristic that results in a textile product not complying with its intended normal usage requirements.

3.3inspection — Activities such as measuring, examining, gauging one or more characteristics of a product or service and comparing these with specified requirements to determine conformity.

3.4grade — An indicator of category or rank related to features or characteristics that cover different sets of needs for products or services intended for the same functional use.

3.5consignment — Part or all of the goods sent to a person or a place for any purpose. All used garments received by whatever means through any port of entry or that are on transit shall be understood to be consignments.

3.6lot — A collection of bales from which samples shall be drawn and inspected to determine conformance to the acceptable criteria.

3.7bale — A collection of used garments packed together in suitable transparent material, and may or may not be bound with metallic or textile strips (see Figure 1).

3.8nightwear — All types of garments meant for use as sleepwear such as pyjamas, night dresses, night gowns and patients’ hospital wear.

3.9undergarments — all types of garments that are worn in close contact with the skin such as ladies briefs, gents briefs, brassieres, camisoles and vests.

4.PACKAGE AND PACKAGING

4.1No package shall contain undergarments, socks, stockings and nightwear.

4.2Each package shall have evidence that its contents have been properly fumigated.

4.3Each consignment shall be accompanied by a health certificate from a recognized institution of the country of origin indicating whether the country has had any epidemic relating to Leprosy, Tuberculosis,

Cholera, Anthrax, Plague, Diphtheria, Tularemia or Pertussis and if there has been any radioactive disaster.

4.4The garments in the consignment shall be clean and free from either domestic or personal hygiene dirt and soiling.

4.5A bale shall have a gross mass of not more than 50 kilograms.

4.6Each bale shall contain garments of the same type.

4.7The bale covering shall be of suitable, transparent material such as polypropylene or polyethylene so as to protect the contents from any type of contamination or soiling.

5.MARKING

5.1Garments

5.1.1Each garment shall be properly marked with the size in accordance with the relevant Kenya Standard and care instructions according to KS 08-68[1]*.

5.2Bale — Each bale shall be marked with the following information:

(i)Mass of bale in kilograms.

(ii)Type of garments.

(iii)Grade (Super, First or Second. No grade shall be designated Gold, Diamond or Silver).

(iv)Supplier’s name and address.

(v)Consignee’s name and address.

(vi)Country of origin.

(vii)Size category (whether for adults or for children).

6.SAMPLING AND INSPECTION

6.1Sampling

6.1.1The number of bales shall be selected at random from each lot in accordance with the sampling plan given in 6.1.3.

6.1.2Each bale in the sampled lot shall be opened and 10 (ten) garments shall be drawn at random for inspection and testing.

FIG. 1 — BALE

6.1.3Sampling plan

Volume of Consignment (bales) Lot Size (bales)

1 to 31

4 to 92

10 to 273

28 to 814

82 to 2437

244 to 72910

Above 73015

6.2Inspection

6.2.1The inspector shall use Appendix B to assess and certify whether the garments are new or used.

6.2.2If the inspector’s assessment reveals that the garments are new or a mixture of used and new garments, the whole consignment shall be rejected as comprising used garments and all requirements for new garments shall apply, including 8.1 of this Part 1 of this Kenya Standard.

6.2.3All samples shall be inspected for defects specified in Appendix A. If they are found to comply with Table 2, the samples shall then be tested in accordance with 7 and 8 of this Part 1 of this Kenya Standard.

7.COMPLIANCE WITH KENYA STANDARDS

7.1Visual Examination

7.1.1 The garment samples shall be examined for visual defects listed in Appendix A to ascertain conformity with Table 2.

7.2Physical Tests and Chemical Analysis

7.2.1When physical tests and/or chemical analysis specified in Appendix A are carried out on the fabric of the used garment sample, the values obtained shall be not less than 90% of the values for new garments specified in the relevant Kenya Standard.

7.3 Workmanship (Garments’ Making up) — The used garment sample shall be examined for the specification requirements of the relevant Kenya Standard.

7.3.1Shirts

7.3.1.1Shirts shall comply with the requirements given in KS 08-5042) except 8 on packaging.

7.3.2Men’s and Boy’s Jackets and Coats

7.3.2.1Men’s and boy’s jackets and coats shall comply with the requirements of KS 08-5603), except 8 on packaging.

7.3.3Ladies Cardigans

7.3.3.1Ladies cardigans shall comply with the requirements of KS 08-5984), except 6 on packaging.

7.3.4Women’s and Girls’ outerwear garments (Dresses, Skirts and Blouses)

7.3.4.1Women’s and girls’ outerwear garments shall comply with the requirements of KS 08-5055),except 5 on packaging.

7.3.5 Sweaters

7.3.5.1Sweaters shall comply with the requirements of KS 08-6296) except 8.2 on packaging.

7.3.6Neckties

7.3.6.1Neckties shall comply with the requirements of KS 08-11267): Part 1 except 3.5 on packaging.

7.3.7Trousers

7.3.7.1Trousers shall comply with all the requirements of KS 08-6878): Part 1.

7.3.8Headgear

7.3.8.1Headgear shall comply with all the requirements of KS 08-14029).

7.3.9Belts

7.3.9.1Belts shall comply with all the requirements of KS 08-…10).

8.MICROBIOLOGICAL EXAMINATION

8.1Each garment shall comply with the microbiological requirements in Table 1 when tested in accordance with KS 08-…11), Kenya Standard Method for microbiological examination of textiles and leather products.

TABLE 1 — MICROBIOLOGICAL LIMITS

SL. No. / CHARACTERISTIC / ACCEPTABLE LIMIT (count/gram)
(i) / Total plate count / 300
(ii) / Candida albicans / Nil
(iii) / Streptococcus feaecalis / 50
(iv) / Trychophyton Sp. / Nil
(v) / Microsporum Sp. / Nil

9. CRITERIA FOR ACCEPTANCE

9.1The consignment shall be declared as acceptable if it complies with the following requirements.

9.1.1The consignment shall be accompanied by a fumigation certificate as per 4.2.

9.1.2The consignment shall comply with 4.1.

9.1.3The mass of the bale shall be as per 4.5.

9.1.4 The consignment shall be accompanied by a health certificate as per 4.3.

9.1.5Certification of being used garments as per 6.2.1.

9.1.6The samples shall comply with Table 2.

9.1.7The samples shall comply with the relevant Kenya Standards in accordance 7.

9.1.8The samples shall comply with the microbiological requirements as per 8.

TABLE 2 — PERMISSIBLE NUMBER OF DEFECTIVES

CONSIGNMENT

(NUMBER OF BALES) / SAMPLE LOT SIZE (BALES) / NUMBER OF SAMPLES (GARMENTS) / PERMISSIBLE NUMBER OF DEFECTIVES
Defectives with Visually Observed Defects / Physically Tested / Chemical Analysis
Serious / Major / Minor / Nil
Nil
Nil
1
2
3
4 / Nil
Nil
Nil
Nil
1
2
3
1 to3
4 to9
10 to 27
28 to 81
82 to 243
244to729
Above 730 / 1
2
3
4
7
10
15 / 10
20
30
40
70
100
150 / Nil
1
2
2
3
5
7 / 1
2
3
4
5
7
8 / 2
3
4
5
7
10
15

A P P E N D I X A

DEFECTS

CLASSIFICATION / VISUALLY EXAMINED DEFECT12) / OTHER PHYSICAL DEFECT / CHEMICAL ANALYSIS
Serious / Holes
Tear
Ladder
Stain
Missing Component
No Care Label
No Size Designation
Abrasion Mark
Burns
Broken Yarn
Blot
Colour Smear
Crease Streak
Misregister
Spirality
Bursting
Open Seams
Fading
Open Folds / Breaking Strength13)
Tear Strength14)
Stretch Recovery
Shrinkage15)
Abrasion16)
Pilling17)
Crease Recovery18)
Mass/Unit Area19)
Bursting Strength / Blend Composition20)
Colour Fastness to:
- laundering21)
-washing22)
-Drycleaning23)
-Weathering24)
-Light25)
-Rubbing26)
-Bleaching27)
-Perspiration28)
-Hot Pressing29)
-pH Value30)
-Chlorinated Water31)
Major / Neppiness
Stain
Terry off
Terry-on-Plain
Under-raising
Water Mark
Reppiness
Weft Crackiness
Wrong Yarn
Warp/Weft Bow
Skewness
Pilling
Shading
Finger Marks
Bad Odour
Mottled Appearance
Strippiness
Dropped Stitch / Odour
Minor / Gout
Slub
Warp/Weft Bar
Double Yarn
Thick Place
Misdraw
Reediness
Reed Mark
Coloured Flecks
Start/Stop Mark
Needle Line
Straying End
Bruise

A P P E N D I X B

INDICATORS OF NEW GARMENTS

Garments shall be considered new on the basis of the following characteristics:

B1. Texture: Stiffness, feel, handle, fabric texture.

B2. Colour: Shade uniformity or sharpness of prints.

B3. Design: Patterns, alignment of components.

B4. Appearance: Lustre, tailor's indicators of newness (closed pockets, tags, etc.)

B5. Odour: Odour peculiar to new garments.

Kenya Standards Referred to in this Standard:

KS 08-68Textile care labelling code (First Revision).1)

KS 08-504Specification for men’s and boys’ shirts, Part 1. Making up Requirements.2)

KS 08-560Specification for boys’ and men’s jackets and coats,

Part 1. Making-up requirements for unlined jackets for Men and boys3).

KS 08-598Specification for ladies’ cardigans 4).

KS 08-505 Specification for women’s and girls outer-wear garments (First Revision ) 5).

KS 08-629Specification for sweaters 6).

KS 08-1126Specification for neckties, Part 1: Neckties made from woven fabrics 7).

KS 08-687Specification for men’s uniforms 8),

Part 1: Uniform trousers.

Part 2: Uniform coats.

KS 08-1402Specification for size designation for headwear 9).

KS 08-…Specification for belts (under preparation) 10).

KS 08-… Methods for microbiological examination of textiles and leather products (under preparation)11).

KS 08-207 Glossary of terms for defects in fabrics

Part 1. Woven fabrics (First Revision).

Part 2. Knitted fabrics.

KS 08-119 Method for determination of breaking load and elongation (Strip method) of woven fabrics13).

KS 08-437Method for determination of tear resistance of woven fabrics by falling pendulum

(Elmendorf) apparatus 14).

KS 08-66Dimensional changes of fabrics cold water immersion15).

KS 08-115Methods for determination of resistance to abrasion of fabrics16).

KS 08-438Methods for determination of pilling resistance of fabrics (Brush Pilling Tester) 17).

KS 08-269Method for determination of crease recovery of fabrics 18).

KS 08-120Method for determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area of woven or knitted fabrics 19).

KS 08-127Methods for the quantitative chemical analysis of binary fibre mixtures 20).

KS 08-888Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to domestic and commercial laundering 21).

KS 08-123Methods for determination of colour fatness of textile materials to washing 22).

KS 08-122Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to dry cleaning 23).

KS 08-263Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to weathering, Part 2. xenon arc lamp 24).

KS 08-359Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to artificial light: Xenon arc fading test (First Revision) 25).

KS 08-266Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to rubbing: Inorganic solvents 26).

KS 08-215Methods for determination of colourfastness of textile materials to bleaching 27).

KS 08-129Methods for determination of colourfastness of textile materials to perspiration 28).

KS 08-130Methods for determination of textile materials to hot pressing 29).

KS 08-360Determination of pH of values of aqueous extracts of textile materials 30).

KS 08-440Determination of colourfastness of textile materials to chlorinated water (Swimming bath water) 31).

1

[1]* Standards referred to in this Kenya Standard are listed at the back of this standard.