MOUNTING THE WHISKER POLE

Constructing a mount

Note: The drawings that follow are drawn for a mast that has an effective radius of 1-1/2". (3" diameter) If your mast has a different size, make adjustments accordingly. Some masts are elliptical in shape. So just follow the shape of the mast.

Take a piece of 1/32" stainless steel sheet, 1-1/2" x 4". Drill a 17/64" hole 2" from the end and 1" down. With tinsnips, cut a slot from the top edge to the hole. Drill four 1/8" holes, in the corners, 3/8" in from each edge. Round out the corners at the entrance to the slot. Deburr this piece very carefully! This piece will be called the mounting bracket. You will need two of these.

Take another piece of 1/32" stainless steel sheet, 1-1/2" x 4". Drill two 1/8" holes, at two of the corners, 3/8" in from each edge. Make sure that these holes match two of the holes in the first piece. This piece will be called the backing plate. You will need two of these.

Take a backing plate and carefully bend it to match your mast size. When finished, the inside radius of the backing plate should match the mast radius. Do the same for the other backing plate.

Take a mounting bracket and carefully bend it to match the outside of the backing plate. Then, bend the middle portion to a radius 1/4" - 3/8" smaller that the mast size. Leave 3/4" on each end at the first radius, and put a bend 3/4" from each end so as to match the backing plate. The effect will be to leave a gap between the backing plate and the mounting bracket. Do the same for the other mounting bracket.

This next step is easier when the boat is on the trailer and level fore and aft and port to starboard. Set the jib and run it out with the whisker pole set at the proper length. Mark the elevation on the mast that is the same as the elevation on the clew. This is where you will set the mount. The purpose of this is to keep the whisker pole horizontal when in use.

If you have two jibs, like a 110% and a Genoa, check the elevation of both of them. If they are not at approximately the same eleva

tion, you will need to construct and mount a set of mounts for each.

Put a line on the mast that marks the straight forward position. It is important that the edge of the backing plate and the mounting bracket do not pass that line, as there is another set that has to go on the other side of the mast. Hold the backing plate in position so that the bottom edge is 1/2" below the elevation mark, and the front edge is on or back of the line. The idea is to put the slot at 60º to 75º from straight ahead.

Using the upper forward hole in the mounting bracket as a guide, drill a hole for a pop rivet. Put the rivet in place, but do not set it, yet. With the first rivet in place, hold the mount and backing plate in place and horizontal. Mark and drill the hole below the first hole.

With the two pop rivets in position, set them both. Using the remaining two holes in the mounting bracket as guides, drill the other two holes through the backing plate and mast. Insert pop rivets and set them.

Now repeat the process on the other side of the mast. The two sets of mounting brackets and backing plates will probably butt up against each other at the straight forward line on the mast.

If there is need of two sets of mounts, take the elevation measurements with each jib and set the mounts accordingly.

To mount the whisker pole, first set it to the proper length. Then, put the spike through the grommet at the clew, and slide the bolt head on the lower end of the pole into the slot on the mount. Tighten the jib sheet and you are set to go. To release the whisker pole, take a firm grip on the pole, release the sheet slightly, and pull outward on the pole. The spike will come out of the grommet and the upper end of the pole will start to drop. Lift the lower end out of the mount and that's it.

Mounting Page 1