Modest Man & The Victorian Era
By: Amsal Rahim
When the Industrial Revolution emerged, it brought in its wake changes that metamorphosed technology and the way products were brought to the market. These advancements dramatically and drastically altered fashion and consequently led to the emergence of the electric sewing machines that endowed men of all social stratas in the Late Victorian Era the ability to access and own ready-to-wear garments readily available at department stores. This stimulated a new wave of merchandising and every man, whether belonging to the affluent Whitechapel; a wealthy governor or the blue collars: butchers, butlers or indentured servants of the former, nearly every man could cache a sober wardrobe without burning holes in his pocket.
Menswear in the Victorian Era was heavily culled by societal norms, culture and tradition and the upperclass men always stayed abreast with latest trends in English fashion. The reverberations and remembrances of the 17th century are vividly depicted in the iconic way in which European men would dress and carry themselves. AilenRiberiro, a fashion historian is known to have shed light on the French and Parisian influences that supremely inspired menswear in the Victorian Era and how it still lingers in Europe, till date.
Style of dress in the Victorian era sings of a theatrical sophistication and sensuality that is unparalleled. Corseted waists, top hats, overcoats and steam punk clothing, Sherlock Holmes inspired attire and long-sleeved shirts were the hallmark of the “Victorian look”
Lapels – Signposts of sophistication
Lapels allude to the folded flaps appearing on the front of a formal jacket or waistcoat. Lapels are “notched”, divided into different levels and consisted of pockets on each side of a buttoned centre whereby men could store their pocketwatches and handkerchiefs. The three main kinds of Lapels were notched, peaked and shawls.
Tailored Waiscoats – The Victorian man’s go-to
Long overcoats were just as much of a prominent feature in a male’s wardrobe as they were for women amidst the Victorian era. King Charles II of England is known to be the pioneer of the waistcoat and introduced it as the correct clothing to be donned by European men in a bid to align with the restoration of the British monarchy. It isn’t commonly known that exposure to the first waistcoat was in actuality acquired by from the Persian vests who visited the court of Shah Abbas as seen by some English men. The waistcoat prevailed to serve as the “staple” in the Englishmen’s wardrobe and a man dare not ever be caught “baresleeves” by a single soul other than their immediate family – something that was considered against the norm back in the Victorian era. Dark vest were typically matched with dark hues and shades of waiscoatsthat were favored for conservative affairs and business meetings. Coats were frequently seen to be tight-fighting, giving the men a ‘long’ and ‘lean’ profile.
Frock and Cutaway coats – Business-esque all the way!
The Frock/Cutaway coat was the utterly classy knee length skirt that would cut just above the knee. These coats were marked by scrupulous attention to detail in their making and donning. These coats were ideally tight-fitted and were seen with lapels and sharp reverse collars that lent a figure-hugging appearance.
Trousers – The era of Dickens
Men in the Victorian era wore high waisted pants that loosely fell onto the ankles in a plethora of colors fastened by suspenders that were typically made of elastic or braces. These trousers were seen to be of a tubular shape and were widened at the ankles. Trousers gradually leveraged into the emergence of patterns that gained popularized over time.
Ties – Of class, cultural refinement and exclusivity
Victorian menswear was rarely seen void of different variations of ties: The classic silk puff, silk imperial and the English square were some of the most preferred ones of them all and were available in an abundant of designs and patterns. The “four-in-hand” and “ascot” exponentially gained popularity towards the end of the Victorian era. Neckwear was seen as a means for men to channelize and manifest a sartorial sense of style and when Edward has ascended to the throne, much of men’s fashion mirrored his sense of style such as the tweedy (synonym) Norfolk jackets and Homburg hats.
The indomitable Inverness Cape
The one piece of clothing that makes most 21st century folks reminiscent of Sherlock Holmes and his vintage-esque, dreamy Victorian era sense of style, the inverness cap always is always associated to the character. The cape is a once piece weatherproof outer coat that was frequently seen worn by men on a typical damp evening in the late 80s in London and was worn in a variety of ways most commonly the formal take with short lapels and the informal take: the one sans the lapels.
Boots – Taking on the wheels’
Men wore a variety of boots in the Victorian Era including Toe Spat Boots, Chelsea boots amongst others but the most authentic style of Boots that scream “Victorian” in essence are studded with buttons coupled with a low heel or lace, toes pointed at the front and are typically mid to high calf – the size on contingent on whether you’re a western man or a gentleman belonging to the upper echlon of society. The colors black, grey and brown were seen as befitting for men in the Edwardian/Victorian era and the distinguished feature was the smooth leather sole that was perfect for dancing and also had the durability for daywear and rough usage.