Making Clothes From Patterns – Week One – choosing/adjusting pattern size Sew In Brighton sewing schoolsewinbrighton.co.uk

  1. Measure all the relevant parts below on yourself while wearing waist elastic (see attached measuring guide for help with some of the measurements). For tops use the pattern that fits your high bust, for trousers use the pattern that fits your hips
  2. **Add ease – ‘wearing ease’ is always added to your body measurements (even if garment is fitted), so you can move in the garment, then the style may dictate further ease for puff, gather, loose fit, flare, ruching at back, flared on hip area, looseness, straight tunic, tight, etc – look at the illustration on the pattern envelope for an idea of how the garment was designed to be worn, and also look at what you’re wearing now – how much bigger than your body is the garment? As well as going by the ease guidelines, loop a tape measure around you and take into account both types of ease to see what your finished garment measurements should be. See chart below (8)
  3. If using jersey or stretch woven you may need negative ease - use the fabric wrapped round as you like the fit, then measure the amount of fabric you wrapped round yourself to get measures instead.

Measurements to take – just do the ones relevant to the garment you are making / You in cm / EASE guide. See 2. above and 8. below / Finished Garment Measurements needed Read 2.** above first!
(cm) / Pattern Measures on size: / Add or reduce pattern area by total cm: / Divide adjustment by number of pattern pieces if it’s evenly distributed
High Bust – for tops, dresses and jackets use patt size that fits your HB Finished Garment Measurements closest / For fitted 7.5-10cm + any style ease** / /4:
My Bust/chest circumference (horizontal at nipple height). If you have a large bust also do:
FRONT BUST=
BACK BUST= / ______
F:
B: / For fitted 5-10cm + any style ease**
______
F:
B / ______
F:
B: / ______
F:
B: / ______
F:
B: / /4 if even or /2 if just on front:
My Waist circumference (horizontal , narrowest part) / 1-3cm / /4:
Measurements to take – just do the ones relevant to the garment you are making / You in cm / EASE guide. See 2. above and 8. below / Finished Garment Measurements needed Read 2.** above first!
(cm) / Pattern Measures on size: / Add or reduce pattern area by total cm: / Divide adjustment by number of pattern pieces if it’s evenly distributed
My Hip circumference (horizontal , widest part round bottom – check is not wider on upper thigh height – use that measure if it is). PUT PIN IN CLOTHING AT HIP HEIGHT / 3-16cm + any style ease** / /4:
Waist to hip (on side - waist elastic to the pin at hip) / na / n/a
Desired waist to hem (all gmt types) / na / n/a
Top hip circumference (4” below waist) / 2-4cm + any style ease** / /4:
Mid shoulder to bust / na / n/a
Mid shoulder to waist / na / n/a
Bust to waist calc from 2 above measures(optional) / n/a
Chest / 1-4cm / /2:
Back width / 1-4cm / /2:
Shoulder point to shoulder point / 1-2cm / /2:
Shoulder to waist at back - length / na / n/a
Armscye depth – from shoulder where the armhole will be on garment(different from diagram below which measures from back of neck) / na / n/a
Upper arm circumference 2” from armpit / depends on style and taste / n/a unless pattern on fold
Measurements to take – just do the ones relevant to the garment you are making / You in cm / EASE guide. See 2. above and 8. below / Finished Garment Measurements needed Read 2.** above first!
(cm) / Pattern Measures on size: / Add or reduce pattern area by total cm: / Divide adjustment by number of pattern pieces if it’s evenly distributed
Sleeve length (shoulder point to cuff) / na / n/a
Thigh circumference at widest point (note how far down leg this is) / depends on style and taste / /2
For trousers/jumpsuits: the crotch length from waist to waist / depends on style and taste. Look at garments you have / /2
  1. Now look on your instruction sheets lay plan for cutting out the ‘view’ you’ve chosen in the pack to see which number pattern pieces you will be using (they will be listed in this section)
  2. Roughly cut these number pattern pieces out - not on the lines but in the space around the pieces, leaving as much space as possible.
  3. Find the ‘finished garment measurements’ listed on the pattern pieces you are using, if there are any. You will need to measure the pattern (not inc seam allowance - it’s very helpful to draw in the sewing lines before measuring) for some of the measures above, or if the ‘finished garment measurements’ are not printed on the pattern.
  4. Compare your measurements including wearing and further styling ease to the finished garment measures of your pattern (without seam allowance). You may need to slice open the pattern and add some length in, move a dart, open up the bust, narrow the neckline, widen or narrow the hips, lengthen or shorten the length, adjust the pattern from a 12 bust and waist to 14 hip etc. Whatever size your garment is, the joining parts must match. E.g. a top part of a dress with 12 bust going to 14waist, must be 14 at the skirt waist too, or they will not fit together. Do all this before cutting out your pattern and fabric.
  1. *BUST & HIP EASE: The following chart outlines the amount of design ease for different silhouettes found at the bust and hip:

Silhouette / Dresses, Tops, Shirts, Vests and Blouses / Jackets / Coats
BUST Ease in CM’s / BUST Ease in CM’s / BUST Ease in CM’s
Close-fitting / 0 – 7.3 / Not Applicable
Fitted / 7.5 – 10 / 9.5 – 10.7 / 13.3 – 17
Semi-fitted / 10.4 – 12.5 / 11.1 – 14.5 / 17.4 – 20.5
Loose fitting / 13 – 20.5 / 14.8 – 25.5 / 20.7 – 30.5
Very loose-fitting / Over 20.5 / Over 25.5 / Over 30.5
Silhouette / Shirts, Pants, Short and Culottes
HIP Ease in CM’s
Close-fitting / 3-4.75
Fitted / 5 – 7.5
Semi-fitted / 8 – 10.1
Loose fitting / 10.5 – 15.25
Very loose-fitting / Over 15.25

Crotch Depth

It is important to check and adjust the crotch depth first, before checking and adjusting the crotch length. Otherwise, it’s a sure bet that your pants won’t fit properly!

  • To find your body’s crotch depth

Sit on a hard, flat chair. Using a straight-edge ruler, measure from the side of your waist to the chair. This will be your body’s crotch length.

  • To find the crotch depth of your pattern

Measure from the crotch line up to the waistline seam. Your measurement line should be close to the side seam, but parallel to the grain line. Pants crotch depth should equal your body’s crotch depth, plus 1/2” (1.3 cm) of ease for hips up to 36” (91.5 cm) wide. Larger sizes may need to include up to 1 1/4” (3.2 cm) of ease.
TIP:Many pants in today’s styles are worn up to 1 ½” below the natural waistline; if this is the case, it will be marked on your pattern. When measuring the crotch depth of your pattern piece, you will have to add this measurement to the top at the waistline. This will give an apples-to-apples comparison, with both measurements beginning at the natural waistline.
To lengthen or shorten the crotch depth, use the lengthen/shorten line printed on your pattern piece. Slash and spread the piece to lengthen, or fold to shorten – check your pattern guide sheet if you need additional information about using this line.

Crotch Length

Once you have checked and adjusted the crotch depth, you can further fine-tune your fit by adjusting the crotch length, as needed.

  • To find your body’s crotch length

Using a flexible tape measure, measure from center back at your natural waistline, between your legs, to the center front at your natural waistline.

  • To find the crotch length on your pattern

Using a flexible tape measure, measure along the stitching/seam line of the center front and center back seams of your pants pattern. Measure from the waistline seam to the inner leg seam on both front and back. Add these two measurements together to get the pattern’s crotch length. The pattern’s crotch length should be equal to your body’s crotch length plus 1 1/2” (3.8 cm) to 2” (5 cm). This extra amount is the ease you need to be able to sit down.
Before you make any adjustments on the pattern tissue, stand sideways and take a look at your figure in the mirror. You can divide the difference in half and make an equal adjustment to the front and the back, adding or subtracting the same amount. Depending on your figure, you may want to divide it unevenly; for example, if you are round in the front, you may prefer to add most or all of the difference to the front piece. Experience, and your own good judgment, are your best guides.
Lengthen or shorten the crotch by adding or subtracting half of the adjustment amount at the inner leg seam; you may need to add a piece of tissue or tracing paper to the piece if you need to make a significant addition. After making your crotch length adjustment, blend the inner seam into the new inner seam/crotch point, to ensure a smooth seam line.