I did not include any information on teaching lines or handling. Put this off for a while until your dog gets his basics down pat. (Example, he must set firmly on the whistle at a distance before he learns to handle.)
Some general comments: I like to compare dog teaching as to building a chain. Notice I said teaching as opposed to training. To me “training” is a misnomer; we should think “teach”.
We build each link in the chain (commands) before proceeding with a new link. Each link must be complete and strong, completely learned, so there is no weakness going forward. As an example: for a new puppy I teach “sit by voice and whistle until firm. I then add “heel” combined with “sit”, then “here”, combined with the other two, all on the leash.
These three basic links are started when the pup is eight weeks old and continue and are reinforced for his entire life. These are the solid foundation links of the chain. As we progress we add additional links, never trying to build two links at the same time. This does not mean that occasionally we don’t have to go back and reinforce these commands. Our dogs are smart. They will use us if we allow it. But it very important that we maintain control and insist on their known lessons when they are working. Again this does not mean they are under the gun all the time. They need their play, affection and praise! Dogs are happy when they know their place. It also does not mean that these commands can’t be taught to an older dog. It may take longer with more firmness but it can be done.
I am going to elaborate on the three basic must commands, “sit”, “heel” and “here” please bear with me.
The command: SIT
Because it is the most important command a dog will ever learn I start with “sit”. I teach the sit first by standing with my dog on leash. Say “sit” and push his butt down, making him keep it down for say a count of five. Move, stop and repeat gradually increasing the butt ground time. When he starts to understand walk slowly and repeat sit, if necessary push the butt. When you get success, praise him and then repeat several more times with success. Quit the session & praise and maybe throw him one happy bumper. Don’t overdo it.
Start the next lesson by reviewing the previous session. A good rule for all teaching is if he sits properly, great, if not repeat to get success. Repeat several times to make sure he fully understands. Next, we build in the whistle command. Repeat the steps as before but as you command sit and get a positive response, blow one blast on the whistle as he is starting to sit. Sit, blow. Move, sit, and blow several times. Now blow first then set then progress to just the whistle. The extra time spent on this command will pay off many times in the future. Don’t rush it, make sure it is firm!! Backup up when necessary. If it is not firm in the yard training it will not be firm in the field with all the excitement.
The command: HERE
I use “here” instead of “come” as some trainers do, don’t ask why, to me it just works better. To start, sit your dog and repeat “Sit”, “Sit”, “Sit” as you slowly back up away from the dog. Initially use your right hand with your palm out towards the dog as you move back repeating “Sit”. If he starts toward you walk him back to the starting point, firmly command “sit” and start again. Keep the distance between you and the dog short at first. When you have backed up a short ways pause briefly then call him to you with “here”. Praise him. Do maybe three or four sessions, each time backing up a little further and pausing a little longer. Always try to end a session with success. Build on this until you can back away quite a distance, say fifty yards. When he understands, sit & here we start teaching the command with the whistle. Go through the same procedure but this time command “sit, sit, sit” -- pause then “here” and blow three or four short blasts, toot, toot, and toot. Repeat this several times then use just the whistle. Repeat until it is firm.
The command: HEEL
Walk your dog at your side on a short leash repeating “heel, heel, heel” as you walk. He should not be pulling on the leash, if he does jerk him forcefully back to your knee. For this lesson I use a choke collar to maintain better control. As you progress change directions guiding him to turn with you. Stop, command “sit”, and then start again with “heel, heel, heel” One word commands only. When he is comfortable at your side after several sessions, gradually release the pressure on the leash as he walks at heal until it dangles freely in your hand. When he has got this try it without the leash, but be prepared to go back to the leash.
Now we have taught our three basic commands. Let’s link them together. Walk him at heel with “heel, heel, heel” (start this with a long leash or rope) Command “sit” and step forward several steps. Command “here” and gently pull on the rope if necessary to align him at your side. Repeat several times. Set him in front of you and step back several yards and command “here” as he approaches you command heal and have him set at your side with “sit”. Initially for this use a rope lead to maintain control and to help guide him to your side.
The key to teaching these commands is repetition and patience. No session needs to last more then fifteen minutes. But in any teaching or action with our dogs it is vital that bad habits are not permitted. It takes many sessions of re –teaching and a lot of frustration teaching a good habit to overcome a bad habit.
As example when teaching young dog water entries: start with the dog held at your side, at the edge of the water using a short lead that he can swim with. Throw the dummy near the center of the pond and quickly let him go. It should be a square entry, no angles. Just before he picks up the dummy, command “here” then whistle “toot, toot, toot”, “good boy!!” to encourage him to come directly back to you.
If he starts to come to your left or right move over so he lands directly in front of you. Praise him. Next, throw the dummy two thirds across always moving to him if he veers off coming back. Next throw to the edge of the pond, still in the water. After success throw it on land several yards beyond the waters edge. We are building a positive habit. In this drill I use a lot of verbal “good dog!” That’s a-boy!” praise and other encouragements to bring him directly back.
As he progresses move back away from the water. It is much easier to teach water entry this way then it is to try to break a cheating habit. If he has been taught to “Hold” make him deliver to hand. Use fetch if he drops it assuming he has learned “Fetch”. This is just one example of breaking steps down in their simplest form and then building on them. It applies to many situations in teaching. You never want to throw a mark for a young dog where he has the opportunity to cheat, but if it does happen yell to the thrower to pick up the dummy BEFOR the dogs gets to it. You don’t want that kind of success. Simplify, shorten the test, move up, etc. so you get positive results and avoid bad habits that have to be corrected later.
I am including the procedures for Force Fetch. Make sure he knows his three basics before starting this.
Hold & Force Fetch (Bob Byrum Method)
This procedure should not be started until the dog has his permanent teeth, about six or seven months old.
Needed:
1. Any collar that you can grab with three fingers of your left hand to maintain control. I don’t use a choke collar.
2. A leash or rope, attached to the collar, long enough so it can be placed over your shoulder and stepped on while kneeling in order to free up your right hand. (reverse if left handed)
3. Initially one small diameter dummy. More to use later.
4. Sessions: at least two short (ten to fifteen minutes) per day. Three is even better. Once this process is started there should be no interruptions. Keep at it until finished. For my dogs I don’t work them at all during this period except for play, no marks, retrieves, etc.
5. One word commands only! Always end a session on a positive note with success. Briefly review the previous lesson when starting the next session.
6. Hold sessions in and area with no distractions. Other dogs, kids Etc.
7. Try to start force fetching as soon as he has his permanent teeth, don’t wait any longer.
8. Sometimes these lessons, depending on the dog, can get a little rough, but stay with it, be firm and insist on the performance. We are not asking we are demanding!
The command: HOLD
While kneeling with the dog on leash, place three fingers around the collar to maintain control, freeing your thumb and index finger. Press your thumb against lower lip and rear teeth until he opens his mouth. Inset the dummy into his mouth while repeating “hold!”, “hold!”, “hold!” You will (may) have to cuff him under the chin while repeating hold. Lengthen the time he holds while repeating “hold” along with praise. While he is holding tug slightly on the dummy again while repeating hold. If he drops it start over. Maintain control with the three fingers of your left hand around the collar. After he understands hold introduce the command “drop”. Now we have linked two commands: Hold, Hold, and Hold then, Drop. Depending on the dog, sometimes these procedures can get a little nasty
Keep teaching hold until you can stand and walk him at heel (on leash) while he is holding. Keep repeating hold, hold, and hold as you walk. If he drops it pick it up, place it in his mouth commanding hold, and hold with a cuff under the chin. Say, “sit” heel’, sit, heel, each time taking a few steps, while holding. Do not advance until this phase is solidly learned.
The command: FETCH
Again on one knee with leash over shoulder and left hand (three fingers) on collar press with the thumb and forefinger nail on the inside of his earlobe, pressing until he opens his mouth. Hold the dummy in front of him with the right hand and when he opens his mouth say “fetch!” and insert the dummy quickly into his mouth while immediately releasing the pressure, (there should be pain!) then command “hold, hold, hold” and cuff his chin if necessary. Make him hold briefly then increase the length of time he holds. Then “drop”.
Repeat this until he will open up and take the dummy on his own on fetch. Repeat several times. He is learning to get free of the pain (pressure) by accepting the dummy. When he is doing this well, slowly lower the dummy towards the ground while repeating this step. You may have to force his head down with your left hand with the leash or rope. The next step is to rest the end of the dummy on the ground, keeping it raised slightly so it is easier for him to grab. Lower his head with the ear pinch commanding “fetch”, “fetch”, “fetch”. Release the pressure when he grabs the dummy. Then “hold, hold, hold” then slowly “drop.” Praise him when he does well but don’t overdo it.
Repeat these steps several times until he is reaching for the dummy on his own without the pressure. Now lay the dummy on the ground, command Fetch, Fetch with pressure until he picks it up. Again,” hold, hold then drop.” Then try it without pressure. If necessary always back up and repeat a step. When he starts picking it up on his own you are over the hill but no where near finished. Note: some dogs react harshly to the ear pinch so be prepared for a battle but don’t back down, hold on firmly.
Next, place a pile of dummies (4 to 6 small) in front of him. Command; “fetch, hold and drop” as you pick up each dummy. Don’t be in a hurry. Make him hold a reasonable amount of time. Move the pile to another location and repeat several times until it is very solid. Now lay four dummies in a row about eight feet apart. Walk him on leash and command “fetch, hold and drop.” Replace the dummy and pick up the rest, then turn around and go the opposite direction. Repeat several times.
After he has done this several times without failing I do the previous two sequences with birds. Be prepared to enforce what he has just learned. Dead pigeons are best for this but ducks are OK. Firmly say fetch, hold and if he picks up the bird and tries to mouth it repeat Hold, Hold with a cuff under the chin. If he refuses to pick it up go back to the ear pinch forcing all the way down with “fetch, fetch, fetch.” When he is holding it, lightly tug on the bird commanding “hold”; do not be in a hurry to take the bird, and then “drop.” Then praise him and if available I will also use a shackled live pigeon as a final challenge.
This portion of our chain is now complete. The links “hold, fetch and drop” have now been added to the early links “sit, heel, and here”. Another comment: the “sit” command is the foundation of all our teaching. If that link is week it is very difficult to advance. If necessary go back at a different location and re-teach sit by voice and the whistle and light pressure until it is very solid and it becomes an automatic response.
This all seems very difficult but it really is not if taken one step at a time. Depending on the dog it usually takes about two weeks with two or three daily sessions. This may seem like a long time and a lot of work but the enjoyment you and your dog receive over the time you will be together will be worth the effort. With patience and a lot of praise it will go together and you will notice improvement as you go along. That’s your reward.
Good Luck
Bob Byrum
PS. I cannot express this to much. You have taught the dog his commands, he knows what is expected. It is now your responsibility to make dam sure he complies at any time a command is given. If you give a command enforce it. The dog will be happier knowing his place and you will be pleased with his response. No back peddling!!