Eiki Projectors

EIKI PROJECTORS

We are indebted to the Eiki Owner’s Instruction Manual, Mike Trickett of Reel Deals magazine, Ross Adams of Dress Circle magazine and Michael Allen, author of an article published in Dress Circle magazine, for much of the information contained in this section.

Main parts of the Eiki projector, left: the control side, and right: inside the back cover

Background

Eiki projectors have a reputation as rugged, reliable machines. They deliver high quality picture and sound and are easy to work on. The main criticism directed at Eiki projectors relates to their reliance on drive belts, which tend to expire at unexpected and inconvenient moments, and their relatively high operating noise levels. Vigilance and preventive maintenance can help minimise the belt problem, but there’s not much you can do about noise, unless you build a bio box or sound booth.

Belts

Several different Eiki models were manufactured. Regardless of model, all Eiki projectors have five belts. These are the drive belt, which connects the motor and the main shaft; the rewind belt, which connects the main gear to the rewind drive clutch; two arm belts, which are located inside the arms and drive the spindles; and the main drive belt, which is toothed and travels around the interior of the projector, driving the sprockets in synchronisation. The main drive belt is very sturdy and rarely needs replacement. The other four belts have to be replaced from time to time. Because of the Eiki design, all belts can be replaced quickly and easily.

Eiki belts are readily accessible when they need to be replaced or shifted

In an emergency O rings can work as replacement belts. They are not designed to move, and consequently they lack the flexibility of belts, but they will do the job if the genuine replacements are not available. O rings are inexpensive and readily available from automotive bearing suppliers in a wide range of sizes. Using O rings can be a lottery. You may need to fit and test several before finding one that will last for more than a few minutes. So if you intend using O rings, buy them by the dozen.

Lamps

The only other item you will need to replace regularly is the main lamp. Early Eiki ST models use a 200 watt 24 volt EJL lamp. Later models, from the RT onwards, use a 250 watt 24 volt ELC lamp.

To replace a lamp, loosen the lock screw and open the lamp house by pulling it open from the top.

Opening the lamp house

Removing the heat shield

Remove the black heat shield (not installed on early models) by pulling it straight out. Push the ejection lever to the left and the lamp will come out easily. Replace with a new lamp and be sure it snaps into place.

Do not be tempted to fit a more readily available ELC 250 watt lamp in an ST projector. Doing so will overload the transformer. The transformer will heat up, emit a puff of acrid smoke and die on the spot. Finding a replacement transformer may not be easy.

On the other hand, if your RT or NT model blows your last spare ELC lamp in the middle of a screening, you can use an EJL lamp to get you through to the end of the film without worrying about its effect on the transformer. The only difference will be a marginal loss of picture brightness, which most people will not notice.

Making your lamp last longer

The main switch controls the low and high light outputs. If you use the low light position, your lamp will last about three times as long as using it on high. High position may be needed for special circumstances, such as a very long throw or where the room is not sufficiently darkened.

Top: Low light switch position. Bottom: High light switch position

Exciter lamps

Exciter lamps also need to be changed occasionally. To replace an exciter lamp open the lamp house and slide the exciter lamp cover off. Push in the lamp and twist anti clockwise.

Removing the exciter lamp cover

Insert the new lamp with the notch on the base flange in the upper right position. Press in while turning clockwise. This operation should be performed using cotton gloves, but it can be a bit fiddly. If you touch the lamp, be sure to clean any fingerprints off it before replacing the cover and closing the lamp house.

All Eiki machines use a BRK exciter lamp. This is a 4 volt .75 amp vertical filament lamp. No other lamp will work properly. Do not be beguiled by the similar appearance of the BRS 4 volt .75 amp exciter lamp which has a horizontal filament.

Lenses

Eiki made a wide range of lenses to suit their projectors. The standard lens has a focal length of 50 mm (2”). Other focal lengths include 25 mm (1”), 38 mm (1½”) and 75 mm (3”) to suit shorter and longer throws. Eiki also made a zoom converter lens that screwed on to the front thread of any of their lenses, and an anamorphic lens for screening cinemascope films.

Setting up the projector

The arms swing up into position and lock

Threading

The projector is threaded along the film path illustrated below.

The Eiki film path

Automatic threading

Most Eiki projectors have an automatic threading mechanism. If you absolutely must use the auto thread, set the reels, trim the leading edge of the film, engage the automatic mechanism by pushing the lever indicated and start the motor. Feed the film into the film channel indicated and wait a few seconds for it to emerge over the tension roller at the other end of the projector. Allow a metre or so to emerge before switching the motor off. Give the film a tug or flick the tension roller to release the automatic mechanism. Load the film on to the take up reel. Check the loops and rotate the inching wheel to make sure everything is working before starting.

The Eiki auto threading mechanism

Problems

The following is a list of problems you may encounter with Eiki projectors.

Warning: High voltages are present inside projectors. All work should be performed with the power turned off and the power lead disconnected.

1. Reel arms fail to lock in screening position

The arms are locked in place by spring loaded latches that click home when the arms are moved into the screening position. The latch on each arm is released by pressing a small metal button that protrudes through the casing. If the mechanism gums up the buttons will not release freely and the locking mechanism will not operate properly.

The arm release button should move in and out freely

Open the back of the projector and push the buttons outwards from inside the machine. Shield belts so that lubricant is not sprayed on them. Use an aerosol lubricant (eg Inox, WD40, RP7 etc) with an extension tube to spray the latch mechanisms from inside. Also spray around the buttons from outside. Work the buttons backwards and forwards until they move freely and pop out when the arms are raised.

2. When auto threading, film does not feed through the gate.

Possible causes: (a) the pressure plate springs are exerting too much force, (b) creased or thin leader, (c) incorrectly cut leading edge, (d) gum or adhesive residue on film or in the gate, (e) build up of dirt or emulsion scrapings baked on to the gate by the heat of the lamp.

Remedies:

(a) Slightly reduce the pressure exerted by the pressure plate springs. Take a half turn off the springs, but beware of taking off too much. You should be able to slide the film through the gate smoothly. The pressure plate is designed to keep the film in a flat plane while it is drawn past the lamp aperture and as it is pulled down by the claw. If not enough pressure is applied, the film can move about in the gate and prevent the claw doing its job, leading to film damage and loss of loop. The film will wobble in and out, making the image unstable and impossible to focus.

It is possible that the original springs may have been replaced by stiffer ones that apply too much pressure, which causes excessive wear on the gate and pressure pad, and a higher risk of damage to the film by scratching. By fiddling with the replacement springs you may be able to obtain a satisfactory temporary result. A better long term solution is to fit genuine replacement springs and adjust them until you are satisfied. The traditional rule of thumb for clearances along the film path is two thicknesses of film.

(b) Thin film does not have the stiffness needed to automatically feed through the gate and rollers. Cut off any damaged or thin leader and replace with thicker leader.

(c) Eiki projectors require a round cut leading edge. Each projector is provided with a special trimmer for this purpose. Use the trimmer to shape the leading edge correctly.

(d) Remove gum with a suitable solvent.

(e) Use a stiff toothbrush to clean the gate and pressure pad. If residue is difficult to shift, soften it with solvent then use a plastic scraper, match, toothpick or ice cream stick. Never use metal.

3. Film does not take up

Causes: (a) take up belt may be stretched, faulty, cracked or broken (b) oil on belt and/or pulleys is causing slippage (c) slipping clutch, or (d) warped or buckled film.

(a) Replace the take up belt.

(b) Clean and dry the take up belt. Clean the pulleys and the interior of the arm thoroughly.

(c) A slipping clutch may be due to oil on the surface or a build up of contaminants forming a hard shiny laminate on the cork. Take the clutch to pieces and bathe it in kerosene or similar solvent. Before reassembling, allow the cork to dry completely. If take up is still not satisfactory, use light sandpaper to gently roughen the surface of the cork. If all else fails, remove the cork lining, clean the inside of the drum thoroughly, and cut and fit a new cork lining.

(d) There isn’t much you can do about warped film, except keep a close watch on the take up to make sure it isn’t producing a sloppy wind. If the machine isn’t coping, you may have to help it by manually assisting the take up reel to maintain constant tension on the film as it comes off the take up sprocket.

Note: Even if the take up is not causing concern, it’s worth inspecting and cleaning the belt, clutch and pulleys from time to time, as preventive maintenance.

4. Take up not working in rewind or reverse

If you have a rewind bench you should never need to rewind on the projector. However, one day you may need to do so. The reverse and rewind mechanism is driven by two belts. The first is in the arm and drives the spindle. The second connects the main gear to the pulley that drives the arm belt.

(a) Inspect belts and replace if necessary.

(b) Dismantle the clutch on the pulley. Clean, allow to dry, then reassemble.

(c) Adjust the clutch for correct torque.

5. Focus: Focus knob doesn’t work

The focus mechanism is simplicity itself. The focus knob is attached to a metal shaft. About half way along the shaft is a rubber bush that presses into the ribbing on the lens barrel. When the knob is rotated, the rubber bush moves the lens barrel towards or away from the film plane. Over time the rubber perishes, becomes brittle and disintegrates. The solution is to replace the rubber bush.

Remove the lens from the lens bracket. Remove the two small screws that attach the shaft retainer to the lens bracket. Remove the retainer. Draw the shaft and what remains of the rubber bush from its sleeve. Clean out all remnants of the old bush from the sleeve.

You can replace the rubber bush by using 4 mm thick wall rubber tubing. Clear plastic tubing also works. Cut a piece to fit. Apply a small amount of adhesive to the inside surface of the rubber tubing and fit to shaft. Replace the shaft in the sleeve (getting it back in can be a squeeze) and reassemble the retainer and lens. Test the movement of the lens by rotating the focus knob. If movement is unsatisfactory, start all over again. You may need to put a shim between the bush and the shaft to ensure a close fit.

6. Focus: Lens incorrectly aligned

If you’ve tried everything else and still can’t get sharp focus, try adjusting the lens alignment. If the lens is only slightly off square it is impossible to obtain sharp focus across the whole of the screen.

The small screw under the lens allows you to align the lens so that it is square to the film plane. Adjust very slowly and in small increments while viewing a projected image. At the same time, adjust frame and focus until you are happy with the result. Some films are so badly warped or buckled it is possible to achieve sharp focus across only a small area of the screen. Don’t use one of these films for your test.

7. No sound

Possible causes: (a) Amplifier not turned on, (b) Amplifier not working or faulty amplifier switch, (c) blown exciter lamp, (d) blown fuse.

Remedies:

(a) Switch amplifier on.

(b) Early ST and RT models did not have an internal speaker connected to the amplifier. You can blow transistors in these models by switching on the amplifier before plugging in the external speaker. Later RT and NT models with internal speakers do not have this problem. If the amplifier is switched on and there is still no sound, the problem could need expert attention. After eliminating other possibilities, refer to a qualified technician.

(c) Check exciter lamp and replace if necessary.

(d) Check fuse and replace if necessary.

8. Low level and poor quality sound