Easy Passap Socks
shared by Vera Hutton, North East England. Email her at
MY SOCK PATTERN the easiest you will ever make FOR PASSAP MACHINE. No grafting and a novice can do it without trouble Knit this sock as is then change to suit yourself, ie different yarns, fairisle tuck or slip ribs , longer ribs, the only finishing is sewing the rib which is knitted last. Takes about 30 minutes to knit and 5 minutes to finish sewing the welt sides.
2 ends silky or what have you in 2/30s. Or 3 ply yarn no thicker for this test. Only use cones not wound off yarn, as wound off yarns slows you down as it keep looping up and if you do not notice you have lumps in your knitting. Two colours knit together great. And only small amounts are needed as it is so thin. My husband likes fine socks without any lumps for his tender feet.
.Put 36 sts on each bed (my sock)
first row orange strippers n/n tension 1. tight row knit across on each bed, zig zag row,
second row orange strippers cx/cx tension 3 back bed only knit to right right change back bed to GX and tension 5
Third row change front bed to N tension 3 still orange strippers, knit this row to left, fourth row put front bed to tension 5 knit to right.
FOR TOE change to black strippers
introduce pushers under all front bed needles, E6000 change to LX (duo 80 BX) front bed only back bed still GX knitting on front bed only toe shape by pulling pusher at outside left back into rail on E6000 (down to rail on Duo 80) knit to left, put pusher at the outside right into rail and knit to right pusher at left down into rail knit to left pusher at right into rail knit to right, carry on until you have 16 needles with pushers under them still in working position carriage at the right, 20 rows shaping knitted. Still working on front bed only, now take the pusher nearest the knitting at the left, back up into working position, knit to left then the pusher at the right nearest the knitting up into working position and knit to right continue until all pushers are back in working position. 20 rows knitted
Put pushers away on E6000. they must be put away otherwise even with CX on the lock the lock will knit when the pushers are up in working position. onto rail with duo 80. Put a little weight on the heel under the machine
HANDLE UP Change locks to CX both beds still tension 5 both beds now knit the foot
Knit 140 rows circular making sure first row of back bed knits cleanly
Now do the heel exactly like the toe. Change back bed to GX front bed to LX (BX on duo)
Put up pushers under every needle. Starting with carriage at right which is where it is now
Put the far left pusher into rail (onto rail for duo80) knit to left, put far right pusher into rail knit to right continue as you did with the heel 20 rows knitted. Replace pushers putting the 1 nearest the knitting up into working position knit to left, put pusher nearest knitting up into work at right side and knit to right continue until all pushers are back in working position. Put pushers away on E6000, right into rail, its easy.
Duo 80 can leave pushers on rail
Change locks to CX both beds still tension 5 both beds put weight up to heel part, make sure back bed knits off cleanly first row.
knit 40 rows. Still tension 5 both beds this is the ankle bit.
Remove back bed stitches on decker combs, or waste yarn, back bed only.( Waste yarn N back bed GX front bed Say 10 rows, do not stint here as you are handling the knitting later) ,. open beds and remove back bed stitches. Gently push the back bed knitting between the beds. Put the beds back together. I use decker combs, it is a good time to get used to them if you have avoided them until now.
Change the black strippers to orange strippers knitting is still on front bed, put handle down
Locks on N both beds. On back bed bring every other empty needle into working position starting with the one slightly to the left of the knitting this will make the last needle on the back slightly to the right of the knitting. 18 needles Tension 3 both beds Knit 40 rows. Then knit 1 row tension 4 and last row tension 5. Take off on waste yarn knit say 10 rows tension 3. I always take off on waste yarn at the end of a garment. It is easier to sit in comfort and link off.. This rib looks like 2 x 1 on one side and 1 x 2 on the other. This is a very stretchy rib and is comfortable, needs no elastic. No need to transfer stitches from one bed to the other, you will use this rib on lots of things in the future, its easy.
Now second half of rib, open beds, replace stitches from waste yarn or decker combs onto back bed making sure that the knit side is facing outside and the purl side faces you. This is the only tricky bit, do not do this when you are in a hurry, take your time Add a little weight, stops stitches from jumping off the needles . Leave waste yarn on until sock finished if used. Close beds. Place empty needles on front bed 1 x 1 opposite working needles on back bed starting with needle slightly to the left knitting at the right hand side and finishing with needle slightly to the right of knitting at the left hand side 18 needles. Exactly opposite to what you did on first side of welt. Lock on N and Tension 3 on both beds knit 40 rows, then 1 row tension 4 and the last row tension 5 take off on waste yarn knit say 10 rows tension 3.
Place last row of knitting onto a knitting needle , remove waste yarn and link off the stitches, the T5 row makes this easier. Do the same with the other side of welt.
Sew up welts and sock is finished. If your size make another one, this is for a size 7 (41) ladies foot,if not keep as a reference. Now knit a pair that will fit you. This means more or less rows in the foot no need to change anything else.
Vera Hutton, North East England