Coastal Modeling

CE 596-02

Coastal Modeling

Fall Semester 2009

Instructors: Dr. Billy L. Edge and Dr. Margery Overton

Homework 3

1. Given a wave traveling through a water depth of 4.0 m with a period of 12 sec and a height of 0.5 m. Now determine

(a) the wavelength using cnoidal wave theory and compare with length from Airy and Stokes 2nd or 5th order wave theories.

(b) Determine the celerity using the same theories

(c) Determine the distance from the wave crest to trough for each and

(d) Plot the wave profile of each on the same graph

2. A pressure gage located 1 m above the bottom in 10 m of Atlantic water measures an average maximum pressure of 10 N/cm2 having an average period of 12 sec. Find the wave height and wave length using linear theory.

3. Determine the horizontal velocity distribution at x/L=0.00 with the Stokes theory, Cnoidal and the linear (Airy) wave theories. Which would you propose using for calculation of the force on a pile support structure for a coal unloading terminal? Would you have the same answer for a fishing pier?

4. Assume that a square 14 inch concrete pile for the fishing pier experiences the wave above. Determine the maximum force/vertical foot that would occur at the still water line. Use the Morison equation to compute the forces. Provide the answer for the three wave theories in Newtons/ft.

Due: October 28, 2009.