Understanding Paper Patterns
Commercial patterns are a marvellous aid for the home dressmaker.
Today’s range of patterns is reliable and easy to use. Whether you require a simple, casual style or an elaborate, fashionable creation, there is a wide choice available, and all patterns are produced in a range of sizes for different types of figures.
If you are a beginner at dressmaking, start by choosing a simple design. Many patterns are labelled “east to make”, and these are safe to choose. Remember to consider your figure when choosing a style, and try to pick a pattern that will enhance your good features and disguise any bad ones.
Pattern size measurements are printed on the back of the pattern envelope and these are standardised for all pattern firms. Decide first which figure type you require. Then choose in the appropriate figure type.
If your body measurements fall between two standard measurements, choose the larger of the two. It is easier to reduce a pattern than enlarge it. Most patterns indicate where pieces to should be shorten or lengthened. This is shown by two continuous lines. Any alteration to the pattern pieces should be made along these lines, so that the balance of the garment is not destroyed.
Some points to remember when altering the size of a paper patter:
- To reduce any particular measurements, make a pleat by creasing the pattern neatly in the required position. The depth of the pleat should be half the amount to be reduced. Alteration in the width of a pattern should be divided equally between front/back and right/left sides of the garment.
- To shorten a bodice piece, make the correct pleat below the bust line. Skirt pieces are shortened between the hip and the hem measurement.
- To enlarge any particular measurement, cut through the pattern and insert an extra strip of paper to give the required width. Remember to divide the extra width equally between front/back and left/right sides of the garment.
- To lengthen a bodice piece, make the insertion below the bust line. Skirts are lengthened between the hip and hem measurement.
Having selected the pattern you require, and then you can choose a fabric. Fabrics are sold in various widths e.g. 90cm, 115cm, 120cm, 140cm and 150cm.
Check the grid on the back of the pattern to find out how much fabric you will need to buy. The grid will list the various styles included in the pattern (these are usually referred to as View 1, view 2, view 3, etc) and will then give a choice of fabric width. Select the view and fabric width required. Read along the line until you come to the size of the garment you are making.
The amount of fabric required will be indicated. When choosing a fabric, do:
- Check if the fabric is shrink resistant
- Look for flaws which might spoil your finished garment.
- Buy any buttons, zip, trimmings necessary whilst you are buying the fabric
- See if printed patterns have been printed straight with the thread of the fabric
- Remember to buy extra fabric if choosing stripes, checks, large patterns, one-way designs or napped fabrics
- Choose colours and patterns that suits your colouring and figure
- Find out from which fibres the fabric is made
- And ask advice about home laundering
Preparations for cutting out
- Unpack your paper pattern and sort out which pattern pieces you will require
- If you need to alter any particular measurements, make the necessary adjustments to the paper pattern now.
- Look at the suggested pattern layout and choose the correct one for your style, fabric, width and size.
- Press the fabric carefully. Loosely woven fabric should be pre-shrunk
- Straighten edge of the fabric
- Fold the fabric, as directed by the pattern layout and spread it smoothly on the cutting out table
- Sometimes pattern pieces are cut from single thickness of material, and the fabric is opened out, right side upwards
- Study the key to the symbols and pattern markings. These marks are important and are meant to guide you when cutting and sewing the pattern
- Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric, as directed by the layout
- Pin securely in position
- Check that the necessary pieces to the fold?
- Is the straight grain parallel to the markings?
- Is there enough space for pieces which have to be cut a second time?
- Have the correct pieces placed on double/single thickness of material
Cutting out
Always use a good pair of cutting sheers. Spread the left hand flat to keep the pattern and fabric in position, and cut with long, even strokes round each of the pattern pieces.
Most commercial patterns show the cutting line as a thick black line. Do not be tempted to lift up the fabric during cutting. All balance marks should be cut outwards, so that the seam allowance is not spoiled.
Leave the pattern pieces pinned to the fabric unless you need to cut a second, reversed pieces on single-thickness fabric.