Transfer markings:

Straight of Grain line: Parallel to center front.

Waist: #18 parallel with hemline (dashes)

Center Cross Point: Parallel with waistline. See Lengthen/Shorten.

Waist Dart: Draw a straight line parallel along the center front same distance from center front as bust point.

Sewing Sequence: “A” under armhole, Sew A to A – B to B etc.

Lengthen/Shorten: The body length is not adjusted at the waistline. In order not to change the shape of the waistline, draw a straight line across the center cross pivot point (pinhole on your draft) parallel with waistline. This will be your adjustment line.

Fitting The Basic Vest:Finish the vest front and back. Fold and pin shoulder dart in place. Fold waist dart in half along the solid line. Pin fit or tape front and back pieces together at shoulder and size seams. Check the following points for a proper fit:

Center Front.

Shoulder

Dart: Use pen to mark bust point at Apex (nipple). Measure 1” to 1-1/2” back from bust point. Redraw the dart lines. Fold new dart and adjust shoulder seam line.

The basic vest is your master. Any adjustments you make, you would make these changes throughout the Lutterloh System.

Fabric Width Conversion for the 3 pattern designs

90 cm = 35/36” 140 cm = 55”

Meters to Yards:

You can take your pattern pieces with you to the fabric store and lay it out on your fashion fabric to determine your yardage.

The Vest and Shirt take 1-3/8 yards each. The Walking Shorts will take 2-1/3 yards.

Fabric/Cutting:

All pattern pieces are placed on double fabric using straight of grain arrow. Chalk each pattern piece on your fabric. Add seam allowance. I suggest you do the seam allowance in chalk as well so you don’t cut the wrong line. Your first chalk mark is your stitching line. Fast, easy and accurate.

Nancy Kanaval

Sew Be It.com

112 Robert Road

Nicholasville, KY40356

Sew Be It.com

Nancy Kanaval
Authorized Distributor/Instructor

Lutterloh System International

“The Golden Rule”

2010DEMO NOTES

FOR YOU:

3 Designs: fitted vest with shoulder and waist dart, loose fitting shop shirt, fitted walking shorts with waistband and zipper fly front.

Read the 3 easy steps in the Learn pattern-making in minutes leaflet. All Lutterloh patterns have wearing ease included. All drafts are done without seam allowances. Seam allowances will need to be added prior to cutting the fabric. German symbols relating to the three designs are as follows:

A Front B=Back Z=Trousers

E Sleeve Front G=Collar, K=Pocket H=Waistband NN=Blouse VM=Center Front HM= Center Back

------=Place on fold (no seam

Arrow = straight of grain

Wear proper undergarments when taking measurements.

Vests, Jackets and Coats: Measure over blouse, pullovers or dress.

Bathing Suits, Lingerie: Measure over bare skin.

Dresses, Blouses, Tops Skirts and Pants: Measure over undergarments.

Drafting paper: recycled newspaper is inexpensive and comes in a roll. Check

your local office supply companies. Fabric stores also carry drafting notions.

Sizing Scale

Find the sizing scale on the left inside in your leaflet. It starts at 50 cm and goes up to 140 cm.

You will be working in centimeters. Check with your fabric store for a 120”quilter tape measure. It has inches on one side and centimeters on the back. It is the same width as the paper template. If you use a measuring tape with centimeters that is not the same width as your template, line up your tape with the black solid line on the right of the paper scale. Cut the sizing scale off. Attach the 8 cm of your cutout on top of the 8 cm on your tape measure. Back with cardboard and laminate it.

Bust Measurement (All pattern parts above the waist – includes sleeves, collars, etc.)

Start with the Vest template. This will be your master reference for all Lutterloh patterns. Refer to the leaflet instructions for taking your proper measurements. Forget sizes. The “Golden Rule” is based on two measurements to enlarge the Lutterloh patterns: Bust & Hip. The waist is a variable measurement. Some like fitted clothes and others like a loose fit. I will explain waist adjustment below.

You will be working on a flat surface. Place a small block under the paper so you do not put holes in your table when placing the pin in the center cross point. Remember you will be removing the template so you only need to scotch tape two corners when placing it on your drafting paper.

Refer to the leaflet instructions for taking your proper bust and hip measurements. Find your bust measurement on the sizing scale. You will note that there are red and black numbers. This is for ease of reading only. Follow the arrow to the right of your bust measurement and place the pushpin in the dot. Place sizing scale and pushpin in the center cross point of the template and drafting paper.

Make sure your sizing scale pivots freely when you pin it to the center cross point of your template. Starting at the waistline dashes, line up your scale to the black dot with the black radiating line to right of the tape with the#18. Keeping the tape measure taught, match the #18 cm on your tape measure and draw a dot on your paper.

Continue enlarging this template working above the waist using your bust measurement in the center cross point and drawing dots accordingly on your paper.

Note #11. This is your bust point. It is not connected to the template and you do not see a black dot connected to the pattern. Line the #11 to the right of the tape and match the #11 cm on your tape and draw a dot on your paper. If you look inside the template at the dart, there is a black dot at the bust point. Trust me this will work. Continue on drawing dots; stop after you draw the #19 dot.

Hip Measurement (All pattern parts below the waist)

If your hip and bust = same cm, then do not remove the sizing scale in the center cross point. If your hip measurement is different than your bust measurement, take out the pushpin and sizing scale and find your hip measurement. Follow the arrow to the right and place the pushpin in the small dot on the scale. Put sizing scale and pushpin at your hip number back in the same center cross point on the template. Line up and draw a dot at number 26, 21, & 20 accordingly.

Congratulations! You just enlarged the template to fit your individual measurements.

Take out the pushpin and sizing scale and draw the cross point using the pinhole in your paper as the center. This will be a reference later.

NOW connect the dots. Connect straight lines first (connect two dots together) Next connect curves (connect 3 dots or more for curves). You may be able to connect 4 dots at armhole and front neck curve.