Day 1:Route description detail
Leave the car park NE direction, past Heiligeist, then climb across the flank of the hillside to gain the subsidiary valley marked Windtal on the map. Follow this SE easily until 2100m where you must climb more steeply SSE to bypass a step in the valley floor on the west hand side. Gain a flattening in the valley floor above the step marked Grunbichl Oberstall 2220m. The final climb to the Hinter Umbartorl now follows a vague spur leading eastwards from the point 2273m marked on the map. Above 2700m you cross the vague spur and ascend more directly to the col which can be gained easily on ski.
Descend from the Col somewhat more steeply in E direction to gain the lower section of the Umbalkees Glacier at about 2520m. (Be aware of crevasses on the glacier!) From here you must put skins on again and ascend the gradual glacial slopes, in beautiful surroundings directly to the Reggentorl. From the final Col it is also possible to take in the nearby summit of the Vorderer Gubachspitz 3318m if you have spare energy for the extra 262m.
From the Reggentorl descend the small glacier in a NE direction to avoid the worst crevasses, until you pass point 2670m. Now descend E, then SE past the small Simonysee before gaining the Essener- Rostocker hut which is tucked out of sight behind a small spur at 2208m.
Day 2:Route description detail
Leave the Essener-Rostocker hut on skins following the practically flat valley floor of the Stredacher Winkle north until about 2340m where the head of the valley kicks back more steeply. Now continue north until below a small spur on the right which drops down from the point marked 2926 on the map. Now ascend more steeply NE below the spur to gain the glacial slopes on the SW of the Gross Geiger. Be aware of avalanche risk or ice sections depending on conditions. The summit can be gained (albeit steeply!) on skis by approaching the summit obliquely from the SE. However it is simpler and sometimes faster to ascend by boot-pack with skis on your pack from a snow-scoop below the West ridge. The descent, though steep for a short section and with some rocky sections below is usually skied given good conditions.
From the summit, descent SW steeply at first and then traverse SSE skirting the main line of the ridge towards the Grolles Happ. Try to keep your altitude where possible, with several nice skiable sections where you lose a little altitude. You must cross over the SW ridge of the Grosses Happ and it is likely that the broken rocks may force you to take off your skis for a small section. A short steeper section allows access to another bowl which is traversed in the direction of the spur dropping from point 3051m. Cross this spur through scenic rocky terrain and continue more easily to the Turmljoch at 2790m.
This Col allows impressive views eastwards to the peaks above the Mauertal. From here there are two possible descents. Given good snow conditions the steeper option descends directly to the hut down a couloir called the “Cannon”. Totally recommended! The somewhat less steep option vaguely follows the summer path in the lower section and eventually gains the hut from the north. This also involves steep sections and is not entirely obvious in poor visibility.
This less obvious option is described here: Leave the Turmljoch descending gentle slopes NE and find the best line towards point marked 2494m on the map. Cairns are sometimes visible marking the summer path and aid identifying the best line of descent. Avoid a rock band to the north and find a series of descending scoops which return you south towards the hut. Once off the steeper ground, cross the bridge directly to the north of the hut- (avoiding the barbed wire!) and from this point quickly gain the hut.
Day 3:Route description detail
Immediately after the hut there is a short steeper section waiting for you. After that follow the direction NE until the lower lift station of the material lift, and pass this on the Right, continuing more steeply up. Follow the scoop and easy walkable scoops… passing a hump until a significant lateral moraine at about 2500m. Then go left of the moraine, direction NE traversing a slope until you reach a knoll. Follow some depressions and humps to 2800m, until for the first time you see the Defreggerhaus. After crossing a steep east facing slope right of a steep ridge you gain the hut after some kick turns. Take care here in case of bad snow conditions.
From the Defreggerhaus you reach in some minutes the entrance to the glacier. The track starts flat until you reach the Rauerhorn. Then after some kick turns you gain the bowl west of the Rauntorl. Follow gentle terrain, slightly uphill to the summit slopes. In some kick turns the ridge after a steeper part, becomes narrow and quickly you gain the summit of the gross Venediger. 3666m Est 51/2-6hrs
Descent: From the summit, return on foot along the ridge to where it is possible to put your skis on. Descent in the direction of the Venediger scharte staying left of the main NE ridge. There are crevasses below the summit and most notably from the Vendiger scharte to when you leave the glacier! Particularly if you choose to descend past the Alte Prager hut. From the Venediger scharte continue NE inding the best line until the glacier diverses at around 3000m. Here you drop into a subsidiary section of the glacier labled Niederer Zaun, which though steeper, is north facing, holds excellent snow and is less crevassed than the descent further East. Descend obliquely NE at first until you access the lower, steeper slopes at around 2830m. Now come more northerly and find the best way through the steeper terrain below, normally using a short exit gully. After enjoying this steep descent, hopefully in good snow conditions, you gain the very gentle valley floor, which now leads you easily eastwards all the way to where it flattens at 1735. Now, with a little bit of skating and double poling if the snow conditions are good enough you can cruise along the valley floor basking in the satisfaction of a fantastic ski touring journey through some of the best the Tirol has to offer. There is a little altitude to be gained along the summer track at Aubergschloss 1680m, but this can be gained easily without skins and then the final descent down forrest tracks to the immensely hospitable Matreier Tauernhaus at 1512m. For any cross country skiers out there this final section is great fun!
Day 4:Route description detail
Leave the Matreier Tauernhaus and walk back up the road about 100m before putting your skis on. From here climb steadily ENE through larch and fir trees, linking some old tracks and clearings, leaving the Felbertauern tunnel entrance far below. Stay left of the Daberbaches stream, and from an altitude of @1780m the terrain is reasonably gentle until towards 1900m you reach a steeper area of slope in the region 30-40⁰. (Be careful here. With new snow due there is potential avalanche risk, and this sections can be icy and require ski crampons). Cross this steeper section until at around 2050m you are able to continue more pleasantly over small undulations and hence gain the flat area of the Daubersee. This is a great place to stop for second breakfast and check out the next section of the route. Leave the Daubersee on your left and climb steadily up the glacial slopes NE to the col between the Amertaler HÖhe (2784m) and Sillingskogel.
From here you must make a short, steep descent into the Landeck valley before the final climb to the Granaterscharte and the summit of the Stubacher Sonnblick. It is best to head as far left as possible, negotiating some short steeper sections through crags in order to avoid losing too much altitude. As soon as it is possible to easily gain the slopes leading to the Karl-furst hut put your skins back on and start ascending in a NE, then E direction passing under the Rabenstein and then over the Pragrat Kees Glacier, making best use of the terrain to the Granatscharte at 2974m. From here, on the East side it is possible to easily ascend the final slopes of the Stubacher Sonnblick. Several descents are possible from here to the Alpinzentrum, the best choice should be made according to the current conditions. We passed SE through some challenging snow before swinging N for a short section of powder keeping south of the Weißsee and gaining the small ski area below the hut. Thankfully the nice man at the lift allowed us to take the button lift the final 100m and finish the day in descent on the piste.
Day 5:Route description detail
Day 6:Route description detail
From theStudlhutte ascend in a ENE direction over gentle terrain beneath the cliff band marked Salzkopfes on the map and gaining the Kodnitzkees glacier. Climb N across the glacier to an altitude of about 3200m. In stable snow conditions it is possible to continue ascending the glacier in steep switchbacks. The upper part is very steep, and requires confident kick-turning and ski crampons. A short rocky section must be overcome to gain the moderate slopes of the shoulder rising from the Adlersruhe. Alternatively, if snow conditions are uncertain, or you prefer to avoid such committing kick turns, you can traverse the glacier more easily to the ridge descending south from the Erzherzog Johann Hut 3454m. This is the normal summer way up the Gross Glockner. Once at the ridge you can put your skis on your rucksack and climb the ridge direct to the Erzherzog Johann Hut. (This involves easy but exposed scrambling, assisted by wire cables.)
The hut is closed in winter, but offers a small winter shelter for emergency purposes. From here you can put your skis back on and skin up the more moderate slopes of the shoulder between the hut and the main peaks.
It is normal to make a ski cache at the base of the rocks of the Kleinglockner, where steep but easy scrambling leads to its summit. Protection can be arranged using the metal spikes. From the summit of the Kleinglockner you must descend with the aid of a steel cable to the Obere Glocknerscharte, or notch between the two peaks. This notch is where the Pallavicinirinne from climbing on the north face meets the summit ridge. The final section to the summit is somewhat exposed and technical grade II over compact rock. There is fixed gear in place to protect the climb well in ascent and descent as it is often guided.
The summit at 3798m is a very satisfying climb and a fitting finale to a challenging but immensely enjoyable week. Descend the route of ascent to the ski depot. From here you have another descent of about 2000m. You must ski the upper slopes of the Glocknerleitl before considering the best point of entry depending on the snow conditions to the Kodnitzkees glacier. The upper part give a brilliant steep ski descent, from which you continue the line of ascent or other variants to the Lucknerhaus and final destination of this Hoch Tirol tour.