X. Crete
(Kriti)
Crete is the largest and most important island in the Aegean. Lying across the mouth of the southern Aegean, it both commands the southern approaches to Greece and forms the link between the Peloponnisos and Asia Minor through Kâsos, Kârpathos, and Rhodes. While it is politically and geographically a part of Greece, its inhabitants have always thought of themselves as being Cretans first and Greeks second.
Crete is dominated by the high mountain backbone which runs throughout its length. Approaching from seaward the peaks of the mountains, snow-capped in the winter and well into the spring, can be seen from a considerable distance off. On the western end of the island the LevkaOri(White Mountains) are a mountain range reaching 2,469m (8,100ft); in the middle of the island the IdhiOri (Ida) are three conspicuous peaks with the highest peak (OrosPsiloriti or Mt Ida) reaching 2,456m (8,060ft); and at the eastern end the OrosDhikti (Lasithi Mountains) attain 2,133m (7,000ft).
For the most part the island is rocky and barren except for the plains on the north coast which are cultivated and the high Lasithi Plateau, a fertile bowl in the mountains. On the south coast the land drops away abruptly to the sea except around Ierapetra. The favourable climate enables a wide variety of fruit and vegetables to be grown: olives, grapes, carob beans, bananas, peaches, oranges (said to be the best in Greece), melons, tomatoes (early season tomatoes for Greece are grown at Ierapetra), and a wide variety of other fruits and vegetables. The flora of Crete is varied, with some 140 indigenous species including many varieties of the orchid family.
The history of Crete, both ancient and modern, has often been turbulent. It was inhabited in Neolithic times and again during the Cycladicperiod, but to most people Crete is known as the centre of the Minoan civilization which ruled over the eastern Mediterranean from 2000-1450 BC (middle and late Minoan). Perhaps one of the more gentle civilizations to exist, it gave us the beautifully decorated pottery which can be seen in the museum at Iraklion and the graceful palaces that Sir Arthur Evans lovingly excavated and recreated. The palace of Knossos is the best known, but the palaces at Phaistos on the south coast and Kato Zakros on the east coast, though there is less to see, are worth visiting for both the superb sites and the peace away from the crowds at Knossos. The Minoan civilization disappeared almost overnight around
1450 BC, probably as a result of the eruption on Thira when it is thought tidal waves, earthquakes and ash obliterated the palaces, the fleet, and the land.
By about 800 BC the Dorians had established themselves on Crete and in the classical period small city-states were scattered around the island. There was an orderly progression through the Roman occupation into the Byzantine period. Many beautiful frescoes still exist from the Byzantine era in churches on Crete and a Cretan school of fresco painting flourished - so much so that Cretan artists were in demand all over Greece. Towards the end of the Byzantine period the Saracens occupied Crete and remained for over a century. The island was retaken for Byzantium by the Emperor Nikephoroswho employed the bizarre device of catapulting the heads of captured prisoners into the stronghold of Iraklion (then Kandak or Kandia), so demoralizing the defenders that they eventually capitulated.
After the Fourth Crusade the island was ruled by the Genoese until the 13th century when it was sold to Venice. The Venetians occupied the island until 1669 and most of the castles and forts still standing date from this era. The harbours on the northern coast were of vital importance in the Venetian trade route from the Peloponnisos to Asia Minor and they fought long and hard to stop the Turks taking Crete. The Turks won through in 1669 and were to hold Crete until 1898. For the Cretans it was a time of much hardship and poverty and there were many insurrections, bloodily put down by the Turks. The spirit and the independence of the Cretans in their battle against the Turks is immortalised in the prose of NikosKazantzakis. Crete became a part of Greece in 1913.
The Cretans, battered by the misfortune of history, but never beaten, have today recovered some degree of prosperity through tourism. However much you despise the reinforced concrete dormitories lining the beaches, you cannot at the same time deny the rise in living standards they have brought with them. Crete is a booming tourist island and the yachtsman is lucky enough to be able to explore its more remote parts and so sample something of the island that is denied to most. The Cretan has a certain reserve that can be mistaken for hostility, but once this has been overcome visitors will find they are welcome and will be treated as privileged guests.
475
Weather patterns in Crete
In the summer the prevailing wind is the meltemi blowing from the NW-WNW. In common with the rest of the Aegean it blows strongest in July and August. It does not usually blow more than Force 5-6 off the northern coast and is more often Force 3-4. In the spring and autumn the wind is predominantly from the S, about Force 2-4.
The southern coast is notorious for the squalls that blow off the high mountains with the prevailing summer winds. The Admiralty Pilot tersely warns that: 'Strong squalls blow down from the mountains during northerly winds. These squalls often begin suddenly, and they may be violent close inshore.'
In the summer months Crete is very hot: the average temperatures often get to 35°-36°C in July and August and can reach 40° at times. In the winter the mountains are covered in snow down to the lower slopes, but the coastal plains have a mild winter climate and the coastal towns are agreeable places to winter afloat.
Routes
Routes in the summer are fairly straightforward. Along the northern coast you can proceed quietly along from W to E with the prevailing wind, or with a little more effort proceed from E to W. Although the meltemi tends to come from a westerly direction, there are usually enough days when the wind is light or there is a morning calm to make reasonable progress from E toW.
On the S coast the ferocity of the gusts off the mountains mean that it can be difficult whichever way you go. The wind also tends to blow around either end of Crete so you will have a bit of a bash getting out from either end.
In the winter, southerlies set large seas onto the S coast and the preferred route has to be along the N coast.
Data
PORTS OF ENTRY
KhaniaIraklionÂyios Nikölaos
PROHIBITED AREAS
1.Navigation is prohibited in an
area extending 500m N, NE and
E of Âk Maleka.
2.Navigation and anchorage are
prohibited in Örmos Soudhas
except for the channel running
up the middle of the bay (not
marked) and at LiminSoudhas.
It is prohibited to enter at night.
3.It is prohibited to anchor in an
area extending 0.75 mile E and SE
of Âk Soüdha.
4.Navigation and anchorage are
prohibited in the areas shown
around Âk Sidheros.
MAJOR LIGHTS
NisisGramvoüsa (NW point)
FI.WR.10s17/13M
Âk Maleka FI(2)12s10M
Âk Dhrepanon FI(3)30s20M
NisisSoüdha FI.G.4.8s6M
Rethimon FI.G.3s12M
Âk Khondrös Kâvos FI.WR.6s12/8M
ÂkStavrös FI(2)14s11M
Iraklion(N mole head) LFI.G.6s9M
Iraklion(Pier head) LFI.R.6s7M
NisisDhia(N point) LFI.12s9M
Nisiş Dhia (Âk Stavrös) FI.6s12M
ÂkÂyloânnis FI(2)12.8s11M
CRETE 476
Northern coast of Crete
KISSAMOS (Kavonisi, Kastelli) Approach
The harbour lies in the SW corner of Kölpos Kissamos to the E of a rocky spur. The town of Kastelli and the harbour mole are easily identified. By night The entrance is lit: Fl.G.2s3M/Fl.R.2s3M. Note If there is a blow from the N you can get stuck in here for a while. The bay is around 14 miles deep before you can get out to turn the corner.
Dangers Care is needed of the shoal water extending NNE from the headland the harbour is built under. There is 4m shoal patch approximately 600m N of the headland and a 2m shoal patch approximately 400m N of the headland.
KISSAMOS
@ 35°31'.0N 23°38'.4E
477
Mooring
Berth alongside or anchor off inside the mole.
Shelter Good shelter from the W and NW although
there is often some surge inside. Open to the E and
SE.
Authorities Port police.
Facilities
Water standpipe. A taverna/cafe and a telephone at the harbour. Bus to Kastelli. In Kastelli fuel and provisions can be obtained.
General
Kissamos is the harbour for Kastelli town about one mile to the E. The harbour is used by a few fishing boats and coasters and the ferry.
KHANIA (Khania, Hania)
BA 1707 Imray-Tetra G37
Approach
Conspicuous The town is visible from some distance off. Closer in a white mosque on the waterfront, the lighthouse on the E side of the entrance, and a number of chimneys in the town are conspicuous. By night Use the light on the E side of the entrance Fl.R.2.5s7M and the lights on either side of the entrance to the inner harbour: F.G.3M/F.R.3M. The buoy off the detached breakwater is lit Q(3) 15s. Dangers The approach is difficult with strong onshore winds. A dangerous sea heaps up on the
shoal water at the entrance and care is needed in the
immediate approaches. The new detached
breakwater improves matters, but it is still difficult
with onshore winds.
Note It is reported that the new detached breakwater
has subsided somewhat and is now only lm above
water.
Mooring
The E basin is now a marina. Berth stern or bows-to or alongside where directed or where convenient. Laid moorings at most berths.
Shelter Good all-round shelter, although strong northerlies cause a surge in the harbour and spray comes over the outer mole. A number of yachts have wintered afloat here, but in bad northerly gales additional lines are needed.
Authorities Port of entry: port police, customs, and immigration. Harbourmaster. Charge band 2.
Facilities
Services Water and electricity at or near every berth.
WC and shower block.
Fuel In the town. A mini-tanker can deliver to the
quay.
Repairs Mechanical repairs. Some light engineering
work. Good hardware and tool shops. Chandlers at
Skrydlof 26 near 1866 Square.
Provisions Excellent shopping for all provisions. Ice
available.
Eating out Good tavernas near the waterfront and in
the town.
KHANIA
@ 35°31'.2N 24°01'.0E
478
Khania looking W from the yacht harbour towards the entrance
Nigel Patten
Other PO. OTE. Banks. Greek gas and Camping Gazin 1866 Square. Hire cars, motorbikes and bicycles. Buses to Iraklion. Ferries from Soüdha. Internal flights to Athens.
General
Khania was for centuries the capital of Crete and was only recently demoted in favour of Iraklion. The Venetian city around theharbour is a fascinating place - cobbled streets, imposing Venetian houses, mosques and minarets, and the market. The lighthouse on the mole is of Venetian-Turkish origin. None of this has been tarted up and turned into a toy town - the city exists with modern additions and crumbling edges and a bustling, busy life to it. In recent years it has become popular with tourists, but the harbour provides a sanctuary from the hurly-burly if you need it.
Everyone who has wintered here has recommended it, even though the harbour can be uncomfortable at times. The town has a buzz to it that is there even when the tourists have departed and, unlike many other tourist spots, doesn't die in the winter.
ÖRMOS SOÜDHAS
BA 1706 Imray-Tetra G37
Approach
Conspicuous The high plateau of Akrotiri peninsula is easily recognised from the distance. Atop the peninsula are a number of high towers with military scanners. NisisSoûdhas, with a fort and naval buildings, is conspicuous. The narrow entrance to the channel free for navigation is marked by two light buoys (F1.R/F1.G) which are difficult to pick out. On either side of the light buoys and extending to the shore are large black mooring buoys holding the anti-submarine net. The channel free for navigation which runs down the middle of the bay is unmarked. A large flour mill near the harbour is conspicuous. Proceed to the harbour taking care to avoid the restricted area around the naval dockyard.
AKROTIRI PENINSULA
@ 2 1M N of Âk Maleka light 35°36'.3N 24°10'.5E
By night It is prohibited to enter Örmos Soûdhas at night.
Caution Örmos Soûdhas is the Greek navy's southern base and care must be taken to avoid the prohibited area to the N and E of the Akrotiripeninsula (extending out approximately 0.75 to 1 mile from the coast) and the prohibited area N and S of the channel free for navigation in Örmos Soûdhas (the channel runs 283° true from the buoys at the entrance and is .0.2 mile wide).
Mooring
Go alongside or stern or bows-to on the S quay. Shelter Good shelter - so much so that the wind in Örmos Soûdhas is generally no indication of conditions outside. Authorities Port police, customs.
Facilities
Water On the quay.
Fuel In the town. A fuel tanker can be arranged.
SOÜDHA
@ 35°29'.5N 24°04'.7E
479
Provisions Good shopping for provisions. Ice
available.
Eating out Tavernas ashore.
Other PO. OTE. Bank. Greek gas. Ferry to Piraeus
- this is the ferry port for Khania. Regular bus
service (every ten minutes) to Khania.
General
Soüdha is a naval base so it does not have any of the trappings of a tourist resort. For many this is a blessing and the simple homespun pleasures of Soudha are a relief from the touts outside tavernasin some of the large Cretan resorts. Khania is nearby if you need an injection of pace into your life.
YIORYIOUPOLIS (Georgioupolis)
BA 1707 Imray-Tetra G37
A small harbour at the mouth of the Almiros river in the SW corner of Örmos Almirou. From seaward the church on the small island connected by a causeway to the land and a hotel on the beach are conspicuous. Care must be taken in the approach because of the shoal water and underwater rocks in the bay. The approach has depths of 1.5-2.5m, but it would be wise to reconnoitre in the dinghy before entering. Moor alongside. Good shelter except from strong N-NE winds.
Water in the town. Most provisions can be obtained and there are several tavernas in the village. Buses to Khania and Iraklion. An attractive friendly little place well worth visiting.
YIORYIOUPOLIS
@ 35°22'.1N 24°16'.0E
RETHIMON (Rethymno)
BA 1707 Imray-Tetra G37
Approach
Conspicuous From the W the fort on the headland and the buildings of the town are conspicuous. From the E a white church on a hill to the E of the
Rethimon. The old Venetian harbour
town and two minarets in the town stand out clearly.
Closer in the breakwater is easily identified.
By night Use the lights at the entrance:
Fl.G.3sl2M/Fl.R.4s6M. The mole sheltering the
inner harbour is lit on the extremity: F.G.3M.
Dangers There is often a rolling swell at the
entrance.
Mooring
Go stern or bows-to the inside of the jetty on the E side or alongside the quay on the N. Note A marina is under construction in the SE corner of the main harbour at the time of writing and it may not be possible to berth here while works are in progress. When complete it is expected that there will berths for 400 yachts and all the usual facilities, including water and electricity at all berths and a shower and toilet block. A charge will be made. Completion is envisaged for 2001-2. Shelter Good shelter from the meltemi tucked under the jetty on the E. Authorities Port police and customs.
Facilities
Water On the quay.
Fuel In the town, but a mini-tanker can be arranged.
Repairs Some mechanical repairs. Hardware shops.
Provisions Good shopping for all provisions. Ice
available.
Eating out Excellent tavernas including several good
fish restaurants around the Venetian harbour.
Other PO. OTE. Banks. Greek gas and Camping
Gaz. Hire cars, motorbikes and bicycles. Buses to
Khania and Iraklion.
General
The old Venetian town and harbour is one of the most attractive spots on Crete. The town also shows signs of the Turkish occupation with wooden balconies on some of the houses and two well-preserved minarets. In the last week of July the Cretan wine festival is held here.
PÂNORMOS
35°25'.3N 24°41'.6E
A small harbour approximately 2M E of AkLianosKâvos. The entrance is lit Fl.G.3s3M/Fl.R.3s3M. Go stern or bows-to or alongside the outer end of
480
RETHIMON
@ 35°22'.5N 24°29'.0E
PÂNORMOS
@ 35°25'.3N 24°41'.6E
the mole. Reasonable shelter although the harbouris open to N-NE and would likely be uncomfortable and probably untenable with strong winds from this direction. Water ashore. Some provisions and tavernas.
ÖRMOS BALI
35O24'.9N 24°47'.1E
A large bay approximately 16 miles E of Rethimon. Care is needed of the rocks extending out from the W entrance to the bay. The two coves on the W side of the bay are reported to afford good shelter from the prevailing winds. The more northerly of the coves has a short breakwater providing additional shelter. The end of the breakwater is lit Fl.G.3s3M. Tavernas ashore.