Study Notes

Chapter 19: Haircoloring and Lightening

  1. Introduction
  2. Haircoloring: the science and art of changing the color of the hair.
  3. Hair lightening: the partial or total removal of natural pigment/artificial color from the hair.
  4. Reasons for color change: fashion changes, to cover gray hair, or decorative effects.
  5. Characteristics and Structure of Hair
  6. Hair structure: affects quality/success of haircolor service; example: strength of cuticle/elasticity.
  7. Texture: melanin distribution different within different textures; may affect color

saturation/processing time.

  1. Density: affects coverage/amount of product required.
  2. Porosity: level influences hair’s ability to absorb liquids; porous hair/accepts haircolor faster, permits darker saturation; low porosity/resistant, longer processing time; average porosity/ processes in average amount of time; high porosity/indicated by lifted cuticle, may not hold color.
  3. Natural hair color: ranges from black to dark brown to red, and from dark blonde to lightest blonde; determined by thickness of the hair, number/size of pigment granules, and ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin.

i. Eumelanin: gives black/brown color to hair.

ii. Pheomelanin: found in yellowish-blonde, ginger, and red tones.

iii. White hair: is the color of keratin; does not contain eumelanin or pheomelanin.

  1. Contributing pigment: pigment that lies under the natural hair color.
  2. Haircoloring is based on modifying contributing pigment with products to create new colors.
  1. Color Theory
  2. Color is a form of visible light energy; colors seen are absorbed/reflected light rays.
  3. The laws of color

i. Regulate mixing of dyes/pigments to make other colors.

ii. Based in science and adapted to art.

iii. Primary colors: basic/true colors; cannot be created by combining other colors/yellow, red, and blue; all other colors created by some combination of red, yellow, or blue.

1. Blue: darkest/only cool primary color; creates depth/darkness to any color.

2. Red: medium primary color; makes blue appear lighter/makes yellow appear darker.

3. Yellow: lightest primary color; lightens/brightens other colors.

iv. Secondary colors

1. Created by mixing equal amounts of two primary colors.

2. Yellow and blue create green; blue and red create violet; red and yellow create orange.

3. Natural hair color is made up of a combination of primary and secondary colors.

v. Tertiary colors

1. Created by mixing equal amounts of one primary color with an adjacent secondary color.

2. Yellow-green, blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet, red-orange, and yellow-orange.

vi. Complementary colors

1. Any two colors situated directly across from each other on the color wheel.

2. When mixed together, they neutralize each other; example: red and green create brown.

3. Complimentary pairs: red/green; orange/blue; yellow/violet.

  1. Always consist of a primary and secondary color; always consist of all three primary colors; example: red (a primary color), complementary color is green (a secondary color); green is made up of blue and yellow (primary colors); three primary colors are represented to varying degrees.

vii. Hue and Tone

1. The basic name of a color; examples: red, yellow, blue-green, etc.

2. Tone describes warmth/coolness of a color.

3. Warm colors: also known as highlighting colors: red, orange, and yellow.

4. Cool colors: also known as ash or drab: blue, green, and violet.

viii. Level

1. The density of a color; indicates the degree of lightness/darkness of a color.

2. Level system: arrangement of hair colors on a scale of 1 to 10.

3. Crucial to formulating, matching, and correcting colors.

ix. Saturation

1. Also known as intensity; degree of concentration/amount of pigment in the color.

2. Strength of a color; example: saturated red is very vivid; any color can be more/less saturated.

x. Base color

1. The predominant tone of a haircoloring product.

2. Influences final color; example: violet base color produces cool results/minimizes yellow tones.

xi. Identifying natural level and tone

1. First step in performing a haircolor service.

2. Use manufacturer’s swatches/color ring to match client’s hair color/determine level.

  1. Haircoloring Products
  2. Temporary haircolor (non-oxidation color)

i. Pigment/dye molecules: largest in classifications of hair color.

ii. Size of color molecule prevents penetration into cuticle layer; produces a coating action.

iii. Subtle color changes/lasts only until next shampoo

iv. Chemical composition: acidic in reaction; creates physical change.

v. pH range of 2.0 to 4.5.

vi. Patch test: not required.

vii. Types: color rinses, color-enhancing shampoos, crayons, haircolor sprays, color mousses/gels.

  1. Semipermanent haircolor (non-oxidation color)

i. Also known as direct dyes; does not develop color/partially penetrates into cortex.

ii. Pigment molecules are small enough to diffuse out of the hair during shampooing/will fade.

iii. Lasts from six to eight shampoos.

iv. Chemical composition: mildly alkaline; swells cortex and raises cuticle; allows some penetration.

v. Process known as self-penetrating; mild chemical change/physical change.

vi. Most do not contain ammonia; may be used right out of the bottle.

vii. Requires a patch test.

viii. pH range: 7.0 to 9.0; formulations with salt bonds, 7.0 to 8.0.

ix. Follow with mild, acid-balanced shampoo and conditioning to neutralize residual alkalinity.

x. Uses: cover/blend partially gray (up to 25 percent) hair without affecting natural color; highlight, enhance, or deepen color tones in the hair; ss a non-peroxide toner for pre-lightened hair.

  1. Demipermanent haircolor (oxidation color)

i. Also known as no-lift, deposit-only haircolor/called semipermanent by some manufacturers.

ii. Longer lasting than traditional semipermanent color.

iii. Deposit color without lifting natural/artificial color; use low-volume developer

iv. Requires a patch test before application.

v. Uses: imparts vivid color results/cover non-pigmented hair; refresh faded permanent color/deposit tonal changes without lift; reverse highlighting or corrective coloring.

  1. Permanent haircolor (oxidation color)

i. Is mixed with a developer; color remains in hair shaft/new growth requires a retouch.

ii. Usually contain ammonia, oxidative tints, and peroxide.

iii. Lightens/deposits color in one process; can lighten natural hair color 1 to 2 levels.

iv. Amount of lift: controlled by color pH/concentration of peroxide in developer.

v. Usually mixed with equal parts of 20-volume peroxide/some products a 2:1 ratio.

vi. Can lift up to four levels with higher-volume developer.

vii. Always read the manufacturer’s directions.

viii. Considered a penetrating tint/penetrates through cuticle into cortex of hair shaft.

1. Aniline derivatives diffuse into the cortex/form larger tint molecules that become trapped.

2. Produces permanent chemical/structural change in cortex.

3. pH range: 9.0 to 10.5; alkaline.

4. Color may fade and require refreshing/new growth creates line of demarcation.

5. Generally the best products for covering gray hair remove natural pigment/add artificial color to gray/pigmented hair.

6. Requires a patch test.

  1. Types of permanent color

i. Oxidation tints: also known as aniline derivative tints, penetrating tints, synthetic-organic tints, and amino tints/also toners.

ii. Vegetable tints: permanent/non-oxidation; made from plants; example: henna (has a coating action).

iii. Metallic/mineral dyes: advertised as color restorers/progressive colors; not professional products.

iv. Compound dyes: metallic/mineral dyes combined with vegetable tint; not used professionally.

  1. Hydrogen peroxide developers

i. Oxidizing agent that is mixed with an oxidative haircolor.

ii. Creates color change when oxidizer combines with melanin in the hair.

iii. pH range: 2.5 to 4.5.

iv. Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2): primary oxidizing agent used in haircoloring.

1. Diffuses/lightens melanin within cortex/diffused melanin called oxymelanin.

2. pH level for use in haircoloring: 3.5 to 4.0; mild acidic.

3. Strengths of hydrogen peroxide are identified as percentages

4. Volume: term used in haircoloring to denote different strengths

  1. Lower the volume, less lift achieved/higher the volume, greater lifting action.
  2. Permanent haircolor products use 10, 20, 30, or 40 volume for proper color development.
  3. 10-volume: for less lightening; 20-volume: usual strength; 30/40-volume: for high lift.

5. Hydrogen peroxide: also known as developer, oxidizer, generator, and catalyst; available in three forms.

  1. Dry peroxide: tablet/powder; dissolved in liquid H2O2 to boost volume/somewhat obsolete.
  2. Cream peroxide: contains additives for stabilization/control/moisture regulation.
  3. Liquid peroxide: contains stabilizing acid/pH 3.5 to 4.0; convenient/used with most bleach/tint formulas.

6. Hydrogen-peroxide safety precautions

  1. Use clean implements when measuring, using, and storing hydrogen peroxide.
  2. Do not allow hydrogen peroxide formulations to come in contact with metal.
  3. Avoid breathing in vapors caused by mixing hydrogen peroxide and haircolor products.
  4. Dispose of plastic bottles that develop a bulge. Warning: Open with extreme caution!

7. Activators

  1. An oxidizer added to hydrogen peroxide to increase its chemical action.
  2. Effects: increased lifting power/controlled by number of activators added.
  3. On-the-scalp applications: up to three activators
  4. Off-the-scalp processes: up to four activators.
  1. Lighteners

i. Chemical compounds that disperse, dissolve, and decolorize natural or artificial pigment

ii. A bleach formula and hydrogen peroxide produce chemical heat

iii. Has a pH level of about 10.0 when mixed for use.

iv. Hair pigment goes through different stages of color as it lightens; change depends on amount of hair pigment, strength of lightening agent, and processing time.

v. May go through ten stages of lightening: black to brown, to red, to red-gold, to gold, to yellow, to pale yellow.

vi. Lighteners are used to create blonde shades that are not possible with permanent haircolor and to achieve the following effects:

1. Lighten the hair to the final shade

2. Pre-lighten the hair to prepare for toner or tint

3. Lighten the hair to a particular shade

4. Brighten/lighten an existing shade of color

vii. Types of lighteners

1. Oil: mixture of H2O2/sulfonated oil; on-the-scalp lightener/mildest form/lifts one to two levels.

2. Cream: most popular; on-the-scalp lightener/easy to apply/will not run, drip, or dry out.

3. Powder: quicker/stronger action; off-the-scalp lightener/will hold but dry out quickly.

viii. Contribution of Underlying Pigment

1. Definition: natural pigment that remains in the hair after lightening.

2. Contributes to the artificial color that is added.

  1. Toners

i. Definition: haircoloring product applied to pre-lightened hair to achieve desired color/tones.

ii. Contain aniline derivatives.

iii. Differ from tints in degree of color saturation/available in pale and delicate colors.

iv. Require a patch test and a strand test is recommended.

  1. Dye removers

i. Also known as color or tint removers.

ii. Oil-base dye remover: lifts trapped color pigment from cuticle; does not create structural change in hair/will not make drastic color-level changes.

iii. Dye solvent: produces strong lightening effects; non-allergenic/does not require patch test.

  1. Fillers

i. Dual-purpose products; create a color base/equalize excessive porosity.

ii. Protein and non-protein: available in gel, cream, and liquid forms.

iii. Available in clear, neutral, and a variety of color bases.

  1. Stain removers: solutions designed to remove color product from the skin.
  1. Haircoloring-Procedures Terminology
  2. Patch test

i. Determines the reaction to aniline derivative tints.

ii. Given 24 to 48 hours prior to haircoloring

iii. Also known as predisposition test

  1. Strand test

i. Determines hair reaction to color product, processing time, and look of final outcome.

ii. Next step after the patch test

  1. Soap cap

1. Definition: equal parts of a haircolor product and shampoo.

2. Applied like a regular shampoo.

3. Used to brighten existing color, reduce yellow tones in gray hair, or blend demarcation lines.

  1. Tint back: the process of returning hair to its natural shade with haircoloring products.
  2. Record keeping

i. Client record card: used to log all haircoloring service information.

ii. Release-statement form: used when client’s hair may not withstand chemical processes; a requirement of most malpractice insurance although it is not a legally binding contract and may not fully protect against liability

  1. Client Consultation

i. First step in a haircoloring service.

ii. Should be performed in a well-lit room with strong natural light/incandescent lighting; fluorescent lighting is not suitable for judging existing hair colors.

iii. Consultation guide

1. Drape client/fill out client record card with client name, address, etc.

2. Perform hair/scalp analysis; determine natural level; log on record card.

3. Ask client leading questions about desired end result.

4. Show examples of appropriate colors/make a determination with the client.

5. Review the procedure, application technique, maintenance, and cost.

6. Gain approval and perform patch/strand tests/record results on client record card.

  1. Haircolor Application Terms

i. Virgin application

1. Application of haircolor to hair that has not been previously colored.

2. Product is applied to entire hair stand, from scalp to ends.

ii. Retouch application

1. New hair growth becomes obvious when using permanent color/lighteners.

2. New growth or regrowth: section of hair shaft between scalp and previously colored hair.

  1. Creates line of demarcation/requires blending with color/lightener application.
  2. Retouch: application of color/lightener to new growth.

iii. Single-process haircoloring

1. Processing that lightens/colors hair a single application; example: virgin/retouch applications.

2. Also known as single-application coloring, one-step coloring, one-step tinting, and single-application tinting.

iv. Double-process haircoloring

1. Processing that requires two separate applications to achieve desired color.

2. Hair is lightened before depositing color is applied.

3. Allows independent control of lightening/coloring actions.

4. Also known as double-application coloring, two-step coloring, two-step tinting, and double-application tinting.

5. May include use of lighteners and toners, pre-softening and tinting, or fillers and color.

v. Pre-softening

1. Process of treating gray/resistant hair to facilitate better color penetration.

2. Softens/opens cuticle.

3. Use 1 ounce of 20-volume peroxide/8 drops of 28 percent ammonia water; or oil/cream bleach product.

vi. Highlighting

1. Process of coloring some of hair strands lighter than the natural color.

2. Examples: frosting, tipping, and streaking.

vii. Lowlighting

1. Also known as reverse highlighting.

2. Process of coloring strands/sections darker than the natural color.

viii. Cap technique

1. Involves pulling strands of hair through holes of a perforated cap with a plastic/metal hook.

2. Number of strands pulled determines degree of highlighting/lowlighting that is achieved.

ix. Foil technique

1. Involves slicing/weaving out sections of hair to be placed on a piece of foil.

2. Color/lightening product usually brushed onto the hair section.

x. Free-form technique

1. Also called baliage.

2. Process of painting lightener/color directly onto clean, styled hair for subtle/dramatic results.

  1. Haircoloring Product Applications
  2. Temporary color rinses

i. Applied at the shampoo bowl/remain in the hair with no rinsing/little color change.

ii. Uses: bring out natural highlights; temporarily restore faded shades; neutralize yellow tones in white/gray hair; tone down over-lightened hair.

iii. Perform a preliminary strand test to determine proper color selection.

  1. Semipermanent haircolor

i. Deposit-only colors/final outcome depends on hair’s color/texture, applied color, and development time.

ii. Available in liquid/cream forms in a variety of colors.

iii. True semipermanent tints do not require the addition of hydrogen peroxide.

iv. Color is self-penetrating/applied the same way each time; retouching is eliminated.

v. Lasts through 6 to 8 shampoos.

vi. Requires a 24-hour patch test.

vii. Some require pre-shampooing, others do not/follow manufacturer’s directions.

viii. Selecting semipermanent color

1. Artificial color added to natural pigment creates a darker color; consider natural color as half of the formula.

2. Hair with no gray: select color that is two levels lighter than desired shade.

3. Ash/cool shades create colors that appear darker than if a warm shade is applied.

4. Less than 50 percent gray: select a shade that matches the natural hair color.

5. 50 percent or more gray hair: select a color one shade darker than the natural hair color.

  1. Demipermanent haircolor

i. Deposit-only color/use same procedures as for semi-permanent haircolor.

ii. Follow manufacturer’s guidelines for application, color selection, and processing time.

  1. Permanent haircolor

i. Contains aniline derivatives; penetrating tints/single-process or double-process tints.

ii. Single-process haircoloring

1. Does not requires pre-shampooing, pre-softening, or pre-bleaching.

2. Most formulated for use with 20-volume hydrogen peroxide.

3. Characteristics of single-process tints

  1. Tint is applied on dry hair.
  2. Colors the hair lighter or darker than the natural color.
  3. Blends in gray/white hair to match the natural hair color.
  4. Tones down streaks, off-shades, discoloration, and faded hair ends.

4. Color selection of singe-process tints

  1. Porosity important in color selection.
  2. To tint darker

(i)Normal porosity: 1⁄2 level lighter than desired color.

(ii)Slightly porous: 1 level lighter than desired color.

(iii)Very porous: 1 to 2 levels lighter than desired color.

  1. General rules for gray hair

(i)To match natural/cover gray, select color closest to natural shade.

(ii)To brighten/lighten hair color/cover gray, select shade lighter than natural color.

(iii)To darken hair/cover gray, select a color darker than the natural hair color.

  1. To tint lighter

(i)Identify the desired level

(ii)Identify the natural level

(iii)Subtract the natural level from the desired level

(iv)Add the level difference to the desired level

(v)Total is the level of color needed

iii. Double-Process Haircoloring

1. Begins with hair lightening.