S2 Purple
Sorely Missed
Raasay is best known as the view from Skye but for reporter Morag Fleming it is an unmissable and unique getaway.
*broch - a prehistoric, dry-stone circular tower
*souterrain – an underground room
Most people only see the island of Raasay from somewhere else. It is situated between Skye and the mainland and to get to it you get a ferry from Sconser on Skye. Many people have said to me over the years that they have seen the island but never thought to take the trip across which I just can’t understand. But then, I know what they are missing. I have been visiting the island since I was five years old and there is something special about it that has built up over the years, mainly due to the fact that very little has changed on the island in all that time.
That first time we stayed in Inverarish, the village which was built to house those working in the mine in the Twenties. We landed at the old jetty at Clachan – the Gaelic word for village – which was the focus of the island before the new pier was built opposite Sconser. It nestles in the bay below Raasay House, once the home of the Macleods of Raasay, then a hotel and now an outdoor centre offering a huge variety of activities in the perfect location. I now sit in the café remembering when, as children, we explored the house as it lay empty and neglected for years.
There’s a museum in the house now, too. There’s a broch*, Pictish stones and St Moluag’s chapel, believed to be pre-Christian. Bonnie Prince Charlie spent a couple of nights hiding out near Inver and the present royal family used to picnic on the beach when Britannia was on the go. During a jolly visit to the island, Johnson and Boswell danced a reel on the flat top of Dun Caan and discovered a prehistoric souterrain* near Raasay House.
Pretty good going for somewhere no one has really heard of. But the island is also the famous home of the late Sorley MacLean, the poet largely responsible for reviving Gaelic literature in Scotland. He was born on Raasay, but lived across on Skye for much of his later life. He was often caught gazing across at the island he loved and which figures in so many of his poems.
My favourite place on Raasay was also Sorley MacLean’s. I love the view from Hallaig where you look across a vast sea to the Five Sisters of Kintail away in the south. On a good day the blue of the sea and the haziness of the land on the horizon is breathtaking.
For such a small island, there is lots to do in the way of day trips. Oscaig was the favourite as a child because there was lots of sand and rocks to climb on to reach an island when the tide was low. Brochel had a ruined castle, rock climbing, swimming, beautifully patterned pebbles and submarines, because they were trained in deep waters on the east of the island.
From Brochel we used to walk on Calum’s road which now stretches all the way to Arnish where Calum Macleod lived. He was so fed up waiting for the council to build a proper road he did it himself and now visitors can drive to the end with ease. From Arnish there are some fantastic walks to the north tip of the island, Eiliean Tigh, or to Fladda, both accessible by the causeway at low tide. My parents saw a sea eagle there this year.
Nothing has changed since those days as a child. That is the wonderful thing about the island. There is a hotel now, and the outdoor centre, but still only one shop and no petrol. The most touristy thing that has ever happened was the horse-drawn wagon offering rides to the pier. That lasted just the one year.
The island just doesn’t need any of that stuff. It sells itself with its seclusion and beauty. It’s lower than its next door neighbour so misses the worst of the weather, making it lusher and more varied than other Hebridean islands. Everywhere you go you are met with yet another staggering view. The vista from the top of Dun Caan is 360 degrees: with Skyeand far off to the outer Hebrides on one side, the north west coast of Scotland on the other, the Torridon hills to Kintail. Some have called it the best view in Scotland.
But Raasay doesn’t even need good weather to cast its spell. After severe withdrawal pangs, I popped up there for a long weekend one February. I stayed in a wonderful bed and breakfast and watched hailstones and huge waves batter the island. Through the rain I visited all the old haunts and realised that I could never leave it so long again before my next visit.
And I never have.
How to get there
From the Skye Bridge head towards Portree, passing through Broadford on the way. Before you reach Portree there’s a sign for the Raasay ferry at Sconser.
Where to stay
There’s a Youth Hostel on the island plus camping and bunkhouse accommodation at the Raasay Outdoor Centre (01478 660266). You’d be hard pushed to get a warmer welcome or a better meal than at Churchton House B&B (01478 660260). The Isle of Raasay Hotel is a welcome addition to the island (01478 660222). Call the Tourist Information brochure hotline for details of holiday cottages on the island (08705 143070)
From an article by Morag Fleming first published in The Sunday Herald 19/11/00
©Morag Fleming
Section A
With reference to the passage, choose a phrase from the list below which describes or explains each of these Raasay landmarks. Write the correct letter beside each landmark.
- Arnish
- Brochel
- Clachan
- Dun Caan
- Inverarish
- St Moluag’s
- built for minersF. ancient chapel
- birthplace of Sorely MacleanG. origin of Calum’s road
- also known as villageH. flat topped hill
- standing stonesI. location of new pier
- outdoor centreJ. ruined castle
Section B
Underline the correct ending for each sentence.
- The author can’t understand why anyone would want to go to Raasay.
why anyone would want to go to Sconser.
why nothing has changed on the island.
why people don’t think to go to Raasay.
- When the writer was young, Raasay House wasa hotel.
an empty house.
the Macleod’s’ home.
a café.
- Raasay House is nowan outdoor centre and museum.
an outdoor centre and hotel.
a café and new ferry dock.
a hotel and home.
- Today access to Raasay is bybridge
air
ferry
bus
- Which accommodation gets the highest recommendation from the author?
Raasay Outdoor Centre
Isle of Raasay Hotel
Raasay Youth Hostel
Churchton House B&B
- The content of this passage is most likely froma newspaper travel feature.
a book about Scottish history.
a tourist guide to Scottish walks.
a memoir of a poet’s childhood.
Section C
The author’s feelings for Raasay are similar to those of Sorley MacLean.
Complete the paragraph by putting one or more words in each gap. You may use words from the passage or your own words.
One of the many [] 1 people with a Raasay connection was Sorley
Maclean. He was a [] 2 who was well known for [ ] 3 people’s interest in [ ] 4 writing in Scotland. Although he lived in [ ] 5 later in his life, Sorley always [ ] 6 the island where he was [ ] 7. His favourite spot on Raasay was [ ] 8. Like the author, Sorley must have enjoyed the [ ] 9 toward [ ] 10.
Section D
- Quote a word or phrase from the first paragraph that conveys the author’s enthusiasm for Raasay.
- Find a word or phrase that tells us Sorley MacLean is no longer alive.
- The writer starts the fourth paragraph, “Pretty good going…”
Explain what she means by these words.
- Give the word that describes the beauty of the view from the writer’s favourite place.
- Another paragraph begins, “The island just doesn’t need any of that stuff.”
Explain what the author means by this.
- List two aspects of the island that make it special for the author.
1.
2.
- The author uses a pun in the title.Explain why the title is appropriate.
[END OF QUESTIONS]