MTB SKILLS CLINIC LEADER’S OUTLINE
MASTER COPY – Updated 3/22/14
BASIC MOUNTAIN BIKING SKILLS CLINIC
Leaders Outline
1.Bike Setup
1.1.Seat height positioning
1.2.Gear changing basics
1.3.Brake lever positioning
2.Skills
2.1.One finger braking
2.2.Normal riding position
2.3.Attack position (rolling demo)
2.4.Navigating Obstacles
2.5.Braking
2.6.Ratcheting......
3.Resources for beginners – Handout at Clinic
3.1.Nutrition before and after a ride (tell folks they can sit during the informational section)
3.2.Basic maintenance
3.3.Tools for the trail (links provided in beginners forum of Meetup site)
1.Bike Setup
1.1.Seat height positioning
a)Normal seat height – 1” below stiff leg heel height
b)Technical terrain seat height – low as it will go
1.2.Gear changing basics
a)Try to stay in middle front ring
b)Never cross-chain - DEMO small/small or large large
c)Do not change gears while applying high pedal force
d)Worst case – let up on pressure when changing gears
e)Normal – Anticipate gear changes and shift before you get to hill or obstacle
1.3.Brake lever positioning
a)Urge riders to try this for just this clinic if they don’t want to do it. Offer to set everything back the way it was if they will just try it.
b)Slide the brake levers in so the crook or end lines up with index finger
c)Rotate the brake levers so they are aligned with forearms when seated
d)NOTE: Forearm bones should point straight into the bars. This is the most stable position and helps prevent sprained wrists if you hit an obstacle hard. It can also prevent nerve problems in the wrist over time.
2.Skills
2.1.One finger braking – static demo
Explain that riders get double the grip with three fingers and a thumb compared to two fingers and a thumb. This is the easiest way to increase confidence and stability on the bike.
a)Have riders pull on their finger while holding it with the two smallest fingers then with the three fingers minus the index finger. Grip is about double with the three outer fingers vs. two. Braking with two fingers or with the middle finger doesn't provide good control
b)Monitor and urge riders to use this technique during the whole session. They will naturally want to brake using two or three fingers or whatever they are used to and need gentle reminders.
2.2.Normal riding position – Static demo
Static demo. Hold their bike and have them do each of the following.
a)Pedals horizontal except turns where outside pedal goes down. Prevents catching a pedal on a rock or root which can cause you to crash.
b)Head up - do NOT look down in front of your tire)
c)Scan two seconds ahead (VERY important)
2.3.Attack position – Rolling demo/coaching
Have your assistant demonstrate this to the group for a couple of laps while you explain what’s going on. Then have everyone practice moving from normal riding position to attack position at a fixed point .
Place two sticks or boards on the ground and ask them to move from normal to attack position at the first board then back to normal at the second board. If you have room have the whole group continuously ride in a large circle and stand at the first board to coach them on their back, head, chest, arm and hand positioning as well as one finger braking as they roll by.
a)Back straight
b)Head up – look ahead, not down
c)Chest down - no more than 8” from bars
d)Elbows up and out (push-up position, do NOT put elbows back like on road bike)
e)Balanced on the pedals (very light force on hands) ***KEY POINT***
2.4.Navigating Obstacles
Use this to teach small obstacle timing. Use a VERY small object like a stick so they are just practicing the timing first then increase the object size if they all start getting good enough to warrant it. The idea is to teach them to get the load off the front wheel when going over any obstacle large or small. Let them get their timing down first then move up to not touching the object with the front wheel next. Finally, teach them to get weight off the back tire as they pass over.
a)Attack position technique - Timed compression then pull up
NOTE: (a) may be very difficult for some people to perform. If they can’t get it after a few tries then have them try (b).
b)Seated position (wheelie) technique - Timed pedal and pull to lower pressure on front
c)Larger obstacle – hop front tire over the stick or board without touching it if possible
d)Larger obstacle front and rear hop (remember to use the attack position)
2.5. Balance and Body Positioning
The idea of this exercise is to teach riders to stay balanced on the bike with very little weight on their hands no matter what angle the bike is at. Keep emphasizing that they let the bike rotate under them and not ever let their weight shift forward with weight on the bars.
a)Have them practice pedal balance while holding their bike for them – Emphasize for them to ALWAYS keep pressure light on the hands
b)If teeter is available spot them while moving the teetier back and forth until they get a feel for keeping their weight centered on the pedals and letting the bike rotate under them.
c)If a teeter is not available then perform the next two steps…
d)Uphill static spotted demo – emphasize balance on pedals.
e)Downhill static spotted demo – emphasize balance on pedals.
2.6. Rolling Drop
a)Demo how chest and butt position dictate how much of a drop you can do without being thrown. While in the attack position, have them take one had off the bar and extend that arm. The distance their hand reaches past the bar is the height of a drop they can clear before the bike will throw them.
b)Drops – rolling spotted demo. off of a small or medium size drop then move to larger drop as they get confidence.
- Emphasize chest 6” from bar then push front of bike down when it drops.
- Butt low and back
- Attack position
- Chest WAY down. 6” from bar.
- Elbows bent, up and out (push-up position)
- Bike rotates – your body does NOT rotate
2.7.Braking
a)Normal braking
b)Straight line – balance on pedals, mostly front brake (75%), the less grip the less you can use the front brake
c)Curves – weight a little forward, use rear brake for balance, use front brake only if you have to
d)Emergency braking
e)Straight line, compress tires, weight way back, BALANCE ON PEDALS
f)Always look ahead for oncoming cyclists, hikers and obstacles
g)Demo how far it takes to stop at 10 mph and 15 mph. Discuss importance of being a responsible rider and what it means to the freedom we enjoy at local parks.
2.8.Ratcheting
a)Up`hill tight obstacle course
3.Resources for beginners – Handout at Clinic
For more resources, go to “Beginners” section of the discussion board of the Louisville Mountainbikers Meetup site.
3.1.Nutrition before and after a ride (tell folks they can sit during the informational section)
a)You will burn between 300 and 1000 calories per hour mtb'ing
b)Do not ride on an empty stomach. You WILL become miserable very quickly
c)Eat plenty of calories which include carbs 1.5-2 hours before a ride (makes a big difference)
d)For example, a Subway chicken sandwich works well for me.
e)Try to not eat simple sugars or a lot of fat right before a ride
f)Energy gels and SHOT blocks help maintain energy on rides longer than an hour
g)Drink plenty of water the day before and the day of a ride
h)Your body can process about 1 liter per hour
i)Try to drink 1 liter 30 minutes before I start
j)Add electrolyte tabs, powder or liquid to your water for rides over 2 hours to help prevent cramps
k)Eat something with protein and carbs WITHIN 45 minutes AFTER your workout. This will help build muscle and lessen soreness
l)Low fat chocolate milk happens to be a great recovery drink (2:1 carb:protein ratio is considered good)
3.2.Basic maintenance
a)Normal tire pressure is between 25 and 35 psi for mtb. Too low = pinch flats. Too high = rough ride and harder to clear roots and rocks
b)Check for loose parts
c)Make sure wheels and brakes are secure
d)After each ride, wipe chain with a rag and lube
e)Clean cassette, derailleur and front gears as needed using a cleaner and brush (do not lube)
f)A well-kept chain should last around 500 trail miles under local conditions (not a lot of mud or sand). Check using a chain wear tool
g)The cassette should be replaced every other chain replacement
3.3.Tools for the trail (links provided in beginners forum of Meetup site)
a)Helmet – for safety
b)Biking gloves – protect hands from falls and numbness
c)Multi tool – prevents having to walk your bike back if a screw comes loose.
d)Quick link that fits your chain (7, 8, 9 or 10 speed) – fix broken chain while on trail
e)Tire levers – needed to remove most tires from the rim to fix a flat
f)Tube – best way to fix a flat tire
g)Pump and/or CO2 cartridges – needed to reinflate tire after changing tube
h)Patch kit – needed in case you get a second or third flat tire on the same ride
i)Valve stem adapter if you have a Presta valve