AGAPE PAWS LABRADOODLES
Getting your new puppy, preparing your home and having what you will need to take care of them!
Agape Paws Labradoodles will supply the following:
1. A puppy that is in good health, has been micro chipped, vaccinated with age appropriate vaccinations, has been dewormed 4 times, has been spayed/neutered and all veterinary health and treatment records, ALCA Registration documents, ALCA Litter Certification and micro chip registration information.
2. A Puppy packet, which includes: 3 days of food they have been eating, collar and leash, toy, blanket with their mother and siblings odors and Puppy Primer Book (may be mailed ahead of time).
3. A lifetime of support for your new family member!
Items YOU will need:
Stock up on the right supplies.
Buy some of the basics ahead of time, so you both and your dog can settle in without too many mad dashes to the store. Here’s what you’ll need:
1. Crate – We like to use Mid-West Wire Crates. You can get them on “Amazon”. Ideally get one big enough to use when the dog is an adult. With an end door, side door and moveable inside divider. Then you can adjust the area to be used to the size of the dog. They like to stretch out when sleeping, but do not give them enough room to potty and be able to get away from it!
2. Food and water bowels. They should be stainless steel, NOT PLASTIC!
3. Small training treats that are soft and chewable.
4. Dog food. Agape Paws Labradoodles feeds all of our dogs and puppies, Life Abundance Dog Food. We use “ALL LIFE STAGES GRAIN FREE”. You can order directly from Life Abundance and they will ship to your home or you can switch to your own high quality brand. If you do, you need to mix the food we supply at delivery, 50/50 for a few days and then switch over completely! You can get to the Life Abundance website directly from our website, by clicking on the food bag/symbol for Life Abundance pictures at the bottom of the “Care & Grooming “ tab. Go to that for specific care & grooming products that we use!
5. You may want to have a second collar and leash, just in case they get wet. Do not leave a wet collar on your puppy! Also, as the puppy grows you will need a bigger collar.
6. A soft pet bed or mat to lie on when not in the crate.
7. Lots of toys, chew bones etc.… We like Nylabones, Best Bully Sticks and especially Elk Antlers. Best Bully Sticks is on the internet and you can also get the antlers from them at a much better price than the pet store. We recommend that you do not give your puppy RAW HIDE chew toys!
8. Stain and odor removing cleaners. A really good disinfectant and odor cleaner is “OdoBan”, this can be use in a spray bottle and in the wash machine. You can purchase this at “Sam’s Club” or on “Amazon.
9. Baby gates are great ways to control access to off limit areas and for containment as they get older.
Transporting your Puppy:
To reduce stomach upsets, bring water along from the breeder's home, and be sure the puppy is not fed for several hours before your trip. Your pup will be more comfortable traveling slightly hungry than on a full, queasy stomach!
If traveling by car, your pup can be held on a passenger's lap if the ride is short, or can alternate between crate and lap if the ride is longer. If you're traveling alone, a crate will be your best and safest solution.
Bring a blanket or two, a roll or two of absorbent paper towels, and some resealable plastic bags to put cleanup materials in. If your puppy has an accident or gets sick while traveling, stop and clean the puppy and crate as soon as safely possible!
Plan to make a bathroom stop every 30 minutes to 2 hours, at the longest, along the way. Your puppy should always be on leash for any bathroom breaks. A good rule is that no car door opens until the leash is securely fastened and in someone's hand! It is so easy for a pup to be out the door before anyone realizes. In a strange area, a puppy new to you may not stay with you or come back to you, and a moment of panic could cause him to get injured or lost.
If traveling by air, you will need to purchase an airline approved soft crate. The biggest you can fit under the seat in front of you. Bring Baby wipes, collapsible water/food bowel. Use a toy and blanket with mother’s smells that we provide and maybe some soft training treats. Plastic bag to put soiled baby wipes. Be sure to check with the specific airline for rules, available flights and cost for taking a puppy with you in the cabin.
When you arrive home with the puppy?
Your pup should be given some time to relieve himself outside first, before bringing him inside. If he's too distracted and doesn't go, take him inside, but carry him, or only set him down for brief periods, then take him back outside. It's important that any elimination gets done in what is to be his regular potty area, or at the very least outside, that first time. Once your pup has relieved himself, feel free to allow him to explore a bit - carefully supervised, of course! He doesn't need to see the whole house, but an exploration of the main living areas will help him orient and adjust. It's fine, then, to offer a drink of water, but hold off on giving any food. Your pup will most likely need a nap after all the excitement, and very likely his stomach won't be ready for food until after that.
Housetraining:
Three important things to remember about housetraining are: Schedule, Supervise, and Reward the response you like. Feed meals at regular, predictable times every day. It's best to avoid free feeding until fully trained, since a puppy who eats at random times during the day will need to "go" at random times during the day. A puppy on a regular feeding schedule will also get on a regular schedule of elimination. Your puppy must go out immediately upon waking up, then out after every meal, when he wakes up from naps, and after play. Train yourself to watch for telltale signs of needing to potty: sniffing, circling, hunching; a sudden burst of activity can indicate a need to defecate. Don't count on a baby puppy knowing how to come and get you, or go to the door. Over time, you and your pup will figure out how to communicate those needs, but for now, be ready to take him out at any sign! Housetraining is really a habit, as opposed to a conscious choice. That first week, I recommend getting your pup's bodily functions on a regular schedule, and concentrating on establishing the habit you want your pup to get into - relieving himself, for example, only on grass, or gravel, etc. Be generous in your praise for all good efforts outside, and try not to draw attention to accidents inside.
If you see the pup start to go, by all means interrupt him, with a noise or by scooping him up, and get him outside to his potty area to finish. Don't go so far as to frighten him, and do not punish him! Housetraining is a learning process, one that counts on your pup being able to trust you; he must want to seek you out when he needs to go. A pup who fears punishment for his mistakes is much more likely to simply avoid you when he feels the urge to go.
Tips that can help make this a success?
Be consistent, develop a routine, and be diligent in your supervision. Have some confinement options available for when you can't supervise, or just need a break. Don't take good behavior for granted -- actively let your puppy know that you appreciate every desirable behavior you get from him. Realize that both you and your pup will make mistakes! He'll be patient with you, if you are with him. Determine to have fun, take the occasional bumps in stride, and most of all, enjoy your puppy!
All the best to your family and your new puppy. We are always available to assist with any questions!
Jim & Shannon Collins
Agape Paws Labradoodles