Univerita Cattolica Sacre Cuore
Master Food Identity
Promo 3
Protected traditional Italian Product:
Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia DOP
Tutor:Made by:
Gabriele CanaliTina Kocova
February 2012
Piacenza
1. Description of the product and of its production process, with reference to the specific rules defined for PDO if and when applicable.
Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia (ABT di RE) is not truly a vinegar, but a condiment. It is produced by the fermentation of sugar and the acetic browning of boiled grape must, made by pressing the grapes grown in the province of Reggio Emilia. The grape varieties grown and harvested in the area are the following: Trebbiano, Occhio di Gatto, Spergola, Berzemino and all the various Lambrusco Reggiano DOC varieties, namely Marania, Salamino, Maestri, Montericco, Sorbara and Ancellotta. (1) These varieties are given by the Consortium of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia. Besides them, in the Code of Conduct for this product the varieties Sauvignon and Sgavetta are also mentioned. (2) The characteristic parfume of the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar comes from the combination of these highly fragrant grape musts which are rich in esters. (1) Grapes intended for the production of ABT di RE have to produce must with a saccharometer reading of 15O or more, and the maximum production, in the case of viticulture-only holdings, must not exceed 160 quintals per hectare, with a maximum yield in terms of must of 70%. (2,3)
In practical terms, the grapes are pressed and put into vats. As soon as the seeds and stalks float to the surface, the must is drawn off, filtered and boiled over low heat. (1) For the production of PDO balsamic vinegar, the must is cooked at atmospheric pressure in open containers. After the reduction in volume brought by cooking, the minumun sugar content of the cooked must may not have a saccharometer reading of less than 30O. (2,3)
The use of musts with fermentation arrested and/or containing additives or substances is prohibited. (3)
The must is then stored in tanks where the vinegar starts to ferment with the coming of the warm wheather, converting the sugar into alcohol (1). The fermentation rooms have necessary ventilation and a natural range of temperatures (2,3). Once the alcohol content has reached 6 or 7 degrees, colonies of acetic acid bacteria are added to help the acetic browning process. (1)
This is how the base vinegar is prepared, which is used to fill barrels made of different types of wood: chestnut, oak, mulberry, junuper, cherry, ash and locust tree (3), that will give the Balsamic Vinegar its exceptional personality during the long aging phase. (1) The series of barrels is called a battery and needs to count at least 5 barrels (4). At least 12 years are needed for the optimum maturation, ageing and after care of ABT di RE. This process does not involve the use of any substances other than cooked must, or any physical or chemical process.(2,3)
Each type of wood lends its own special note to the vinegar: tannin-rich chestnut helps to enhance its caracteristics dark colour; cherry wood sweetens its flavour; mulberry makes it more concentrated; the strong resins of juniper wood enhace its aroma; and oak generally used for the smaller barrels adds a final touch of masterly flair. (1)
The different types of wood and the barrels in gradually decreasing sizes give stability and intensity to the aroma of the Balsamic Vinegar. There can be up to 20 different barrels that gradually get smaller and smaller. The largest 100-litre barrel contains the boiled must whereas the smallest 10-litre barrel is used for the precious and fragrant outcome. (1) The barrel are not filled to the top, but around ¾ of the entire volume. In addition,every barrel has a hole in the centar-top position. Through this hole air gets to the microorganisms, so that they can continue living and multiplying. However, all the holes are covered with a piece of material in ordre to prevent insects or some particles of entering the barrel. (4)
Traditionally the best place for balsamic vinegar to age and mature is the eaves or the attic of a house because it will be more exposed here to the extremes in temperature with the changing seasons. (1) These extremes allow good and vivid fermentation during the summer, but also stop all fermentation processes during the winter. Thus, the balsamic vinegar cleares itself naturally and all the solids precipitate to the bottom of the barrel. (4) As the vinegar ages, it is important to keep topping it up. This is done once a year to make sure the barrel always contains the same amount of vinegar as it did at the start and compensates for the liquid lost through evaporation. (1) Topping the barrels also gives new food for the bacterias and yeasts, especially in the first barrels of the battery. In this manner, they are revitalised (4). Barrels are topped up with vinegar taken from the next barrel up. The skill, experience, nose and palate of the Master Vinegar Maker are essential elements for the success of topping up. His task is analysing the complexity of the flavour and aroma of each individual barrel and assessing the level of maturity that will be achieved after topping up from the larger barrel, its characteristics revitalized by the younger vinegar. (1) The extraction of the liquide used for topping, or even extraction of vinegar for sensory analysis and bottling, is done from the top hole of the barrel, from the top of the liquide inside. It is never done from the bottom, as the solid deposits are left in the barrels for about 13 to 15 years. (4)
The organoleptic specifications of the vinegar have to be assessed by Master Tasters who award Certification and ultimately decide if a vinegar is worth of being called Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia. (1)
Considering instrumental measurements, the finished vinegar needs to have total acidity of 5Oor more, expressed in grams of acetic acid per 100g of product, and density (at 20OC) of 1 200 g/cm3 or more.
When the product satisfies the minimum requirements set out in the rules of production (Code of Conduct) and has passed a series of analytical and organoleptic tests, it is put in special 10-25 cl glass bottles shaped like an inverted tulip. (2,3,5) The dimension of every aspect of the bottles is defined in the Code of Conduct, for instance the hight of the bottle, of the neck of the bottle, maximal diametar of the bottle, minimal diametar of the neck of the bottle etc. (2) The bottling process take place also in the province of Reggio Emilia. (2,3) When packing takes place a seal and a stamp with a number belonging to a series are attached to the bottle. No indication may be given as to the year of production, the age of the product or the date on which production began at the vinegar production premises. The following may however appear on the label, tag or neck label: general historical information on the origins of the product and its consumption, the date of bottling, and possibly an indication as to the barrels of origine and some technical information on production. (3) The words Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia (the adjective “tradtional” must always appear), are put on the label (5).
Sometimes, the vinegar may be considered unfit. In that case, it is poured back into the barrels and allowed to age more before subject to the certification procedure at a future date (5).
2. Description of the geographical area where the product can isproduced with reference to main social, environmental and economic aspects (number of producers, their economic dimension, …)
The geographical area of production is Reggio Emilia and its province. ABT di RE is one of the most important typical and traditional food stuffs of the Regio area. Its characterisics and the fact that the production is fairly limited, have helped to forge the economic success and reputation of the product in Italy and abroad. (3) All the grapes are grown in the province. The obtaining of the must, its cooking, fermentation and aging are also done there. And finaly, the bottling of the final product and its labeling are performed in the same area (1,4).
Picture 1 – geographical location of Reggio Emilia
a) the link between the teritory and the product from an environmental point of view
The province of Reggio Emilia has specific climate that allows the production of this high quality balsamic vinegar. The summers are hot and dry giving perfect conditions for the browning of the vinegar, for its evaporation and then its concentration. The winters are cold and as such help the processes of sedimentation and decantation necessary for the pureness and clarity of the vinegar. (1)
The close links between the product and the local conditions in terms of soil and climate are confirmed and underpinned by the ban on accelerated and/or artificial aging techniques, including those based on induced changes in temperature, humidity and ventilation in the vinegar production rooms.
The fact that the raw material comes solely from Reggio Emilia vineyards that produce quality wines psr precludes the possibility of the characteristics of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia being reproduced anywhere else in that area. (3)
b)the link between the territory and the product from a social point of view
ABT di RE is a product with a rich history associated directly to the region of production and the families from that region. One of the basic reasons for this is the fact that the process of production takes from one to several decades. Besides that every family adds its specificity to the production process that represents their unique product.
The earliest ancient writings in which the product Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia is mentioned date back to the year 1046. That is when the Emperor of Germany, Henry III was traveling to Rome for his coronation. He made a stop in Piacenza and wrote to Boniface, Marquis of Tuscany, asking for a gift of a special vinegar which “he had heard flows in the most perfect manner”. Boniface had a cask made out of silver to contain the precious nectar and sent it on a carriage, and the king “was quite pleased with this magnificent gift”. It was said that within the walls of the Canossa castle a formidable array of barrels used for making balsamic vinegar existed and a vinegar, like and elixir and balsam, was produced which was craved desperately by the royalty. All of this history can be found in the poem “Vita Mathildis” by the monk Donizone. He was the main biographer of the Great Countess Matilde, daughter of Boniface, Marquis of Tuscany. (1,3,5)
In addition, it is also known that during the 12th, 13th and 14th centuries, in Reggio Emilia, Scandiano and in the other main towns of the territory, the vinegar producers organized themselves in consortia where all members jealously guarded the secrets of production. The members had to swear that they would never reveal the secrets of the precious elixir. (1,3,5)
The main usage of the vinegar was mostly medical, such as when Lucrezia Borgia was giving birth, or as a remedy for sore throats, difficult breathing, indigestion, to cure bites by poisonous animals, fainting, as a hearth tonic and perhaps surprisingly as a powerful aphrodisiac. In that connection, the name “balsamic” suggests the idea of a prodigious medication kept by the more fortunate and considered a cure for any illness and a wholesome balm capable of invigorating delicate stomachs and reviving the appetite. (1,3,5)
In the Renaissance period, after the imperial approval this product was often enjoyed by kings and nobility, in particular by the Dukes of Este. In 1476, when Alfonso I, Duke of Ferrara, came to reign, the history of balsamic vinegar received a decisive boost. The whole of the ruling dynasty in the duchy of Modena, Reggio Emilia and Massa, across the centuries up until 1859, enriched the accounts of the history of the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar. (1,3,5)
In the third Satire (1518) by Lodovico Ariosto (who was born in Reggio Emilia and is considered greatest secular poet of the Italian language) dedicated to his cousin Annibale Malaguzzi, it is written: at home, I prefer a cooked turnip that I stab with a stick and peel and sprinkle with vinegar and saba (cooked must). (1,3,5)
During the 1800's, the Balsamic Vinegar was found in the archives of local notaries often as part of the dowry lists. At that time it was a custom to enrich the dower of noble women with jars of the precious balsamic vinegar and sets of little barrels with the same product. Besides that the sets of barrels used to make Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia were considered important enough to be included in wills and passed down through the generations. The barrels were often specifically mentioned in wills drawn up by local notaries. (1,3,5)
Nearer to present day, in 1986 (5)/ 1987 (1) the Consortium of Producers of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia was founded with the purpose of presenting excellent products to the market. Thus, it started planning production regulations in order to define methods and assure quality. It decided that the identification of the quality of the products, before sale, would be done by a “boards” of independent tasters, whose judgment would be final. (1) The Consortium was liable to inspection by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies (5). When the product was placed on the list of PDO products, on 20th March 2000 (3) , the Consortium of Producers of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia was exonerated from carrying out checks, as having the sign of quality set the rules (1,5).
c) the link between the territory and the product from an economic point of view
The data that are given here are statistics for the years 2006 and 2007.
Concerning the number of enterprises that are involved in the production of this product and the quantity that has been produced, a slight decrease can be seen from 2006 to 2007. That is shown in table1. (6)
Table 1- information about the enterprises involved in the production of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia (6)
Enterprises of interest / 2006 / 2007Number of agricultural enterprises / 19 / 27
Number of artisan/industrial structures / 46 / 46
Number of enterprises with a certified product / 65 (of which 28 can do bottling) / 63 (of which 33 can do bottling)
Number of enterprises connected to the Consortium / 65 / 63
Produced and certified quantity / 581 000 L / 543 000 L
Quantity of potentially certifiable product in the area of production / 150 000/200 000 L / 150 000/200 000 L
Today, the number of enterprises which have a certified product and are connected to the Consortium counts only 25 producers (1). That means that the production of this balsamic vinegar is facing problems. One of them may be the production of a very similar product, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena (ABT di M). The number of producers in the mentioned years was almost 3 times bigger (6). Nevertheless, the certified quantity produced was around 11 000-10 000 liters for the years in question and the area of production for ABT di M is bigger that Reggio Emilia. Besides that, the producers of ABT di M might be prospering better because they have bigger revenues, as their product is being sold with somewhat higher price and it is mostly sold in the sector of the market where it has a bigger price. The price of a book package 100ml bottle of ABT di RE in whole sale was 35 euros in 2006 and 2007. In wholesale ABT di M, is sold in two forms: affinato and extravechhio. The first one had a price similar to ABT di RE, but the second one was 55-85euros and 55-65euros for each year respectfully. In retail the three types of ABT di RE (Lobster red, Silver and Gold Label) are all sold at a price of 60 euros both years. However, ABT di M has higher prices: affinato 70-100 euros in 2006 and 70-90 euros in 2007; extravecchio 120-160 euros in 2006 and 100-140 euros in 2007. In direct sale, the book package 100ml bottle of ABT di RE is 65 euros for both years, where as for ABT di M affinato is 40-45 euros and extravecchio is 70-85 euros also for both years. (6)
Apart from the price of the product, what is important is also the sector of the market where the product is mostly present. For ABT di RE, it was mostly sold in the external market in 2006 (60% of production), where as in 2007 it was the opposite. In the internal/Italian market, this product was mostly sold in traditional distribution (around 80%) in 2006. Still, in 2007, probably because of better promotion and organization, the role of the direct sales and other types of sales augmented (together around 60%). That could be the cause of higher revenues in 2007, despite lower production. The markets of ABT di M are more or less stable. The sales are equally divided between the internal and external market. In the internal market the product is mostly presented in direct sales. The second place is taken by the traditional distribution. (6)
All in all, the revenues for ABT di RE for 2006 were 800 000 euros in wholesale and 1 050 000 euros in retail and in 2007, 900 000 euros in wholesale and 1 200 000 euros in retail. For ABT di M, the revenues are almost 10 times bigger in whole sale and 16 times bigger in retail in 2006 and 9 and 14 respectfully in 2007. (6)
In the end, it is odd that ABT di RE produced in a smaller area, by a smaller number of producer has a significantly higher produced and certified quantity than ABT di M. And still, their revenues are significantly lower.
Another problem that the producers of ABT di RE might have is the production of fake balsamic vinegar. Those products steal the market, destroy the reputation and damage the economy of the producers, but also of the country. (7)
3. Description of different varieties of the products and of different identification / traceability system, and/or branding strategies