Mochapet ReptiGuide
A Comprehensive Guide for Reptile Care
*This guide is based on the needs of a single full-grown adult.
General Care Requirements
Regardless of species, all Mochapet Reptiles have some similar care requirements:
1. All reptiles should be on a roughly 12 hour day and 12 hour night cycle. DO NOT keep terrarium lights on constantly.
2. All reptiles require calcium in their diet. Food dusted with calcium powder, or exposure UV lighting will provide ample calcium in the reptile’s diet. While UV lighting is not always required, it is highly recommended. Dusting insects/veggies/fruits with calcium powder before feeding is required. Calcium powder WITHOUT vitamin D3 is preferred.
3. It is important to consider the room temperature of your house when deciding on proper bulb wattage. A Mochapet Team Member can assist you in choosing the right bulb. Many reptiles require nighttime heating as well; these bulbs should be a slightly lesser wattage than those used during the day in order to achieve a natural day/night temperature drop.
Pacman Frog
Place of Origin: South America
Diet: Crickets, Meal/Super Worms, Small Mice (adults only)
Heating: Tropical Heat Bulb/Pad
UV Lighting: Tropical (optional)
Substrate: Repti-Bark, Coco Husk, Plantain Soil, Moss
Housing: 10-20 Gallon Terrarium/Aquarium
General Info: Pacman frogs are notorious eaters, and will consume anything that fits in their mouths. This includes other pacman frogs. Pacmans are tropical frogs, so they require constant humidity of no less than 40-50%. Pacmans are also terrestrial, so plenty of substrate to burrow in is needed. A large water bowl is recommended, as Pacman frogs often submerge themselves in water. They should be fed 2-3 times weekly. Daytime temperatures should be in the high 70’s to low 80’s, and nighttime temperatures should not get below 72 degrees. Adult Pacman frogs are roughly the size of a softball when fully grown.
Leopard Gecko
Place of Origin: India/Pakistan
Diet: Crickets, Meal/Super worms
Heating: Desert Heat/Basking Bulb or Pad
UV Lighting: Desert
Substrate: Walnut Shell, Calcium Sand, Excavator Clay
Housing: 10-20 Gallon Terrarium/Aquarium
General Info: Leopard geckos are excellent reptiles for beginners. They do not require much humidity, only adequate heating. Babies will eat 2-3 times weekly, but adults can eat only once per week. Leopard geckos are terrestrial, so plenty of substrate should be provided for burrowing. Multiple leopard geckos can be housed in a single terrarium; provided that there is enough territory for everyone and that there are more females than males (2 females to 1 male). Males can be kept together, but they require lots of room so that they will not fight each other. Leopard geckos kept together should be roughly the same size. Daytime temperatures should be around 80 degrees and nighttime temperatures should not get below 72 degrees. Leopard geckos are largely nocturnal, so it is important that a hide of some kind is provided so they can sleep during the day undisturbed. Although their tails regenerate when dropped, they grow back much shorter and plumper (roughly shaped like their heads). Females reach a length of 5-7” and males can be as long as 8” fully grown.
North American Corn Snake
Place of Origin: United States/Mexico
Diet: Crickets (hatchlings), pinkies/fuzzies/rat pups (juveniles), adult mice (adults).
Heating: Tropical Heat/Basking Bulb or Pad
UV Lighting: Tropical
Substrate: Walnut Shell, Repti-Bark, Coco Husk, Plantain Soil, Aspen Chips
Housing: 55 Gallon Aquarium/Terrarium
General Info: Corn snakes are excellent starter snakes. They are easy to handle and are quite docile. Since they are found in a variety of habitats, temperatures and humidity levels vary. Generally, daytime temperatures should be in the high 70’s to low 80’s, and nighttime temperatures should not get below 72 degrees. Misting the terrarium once or twice daily will provide enough humidity, although it is recommended that more humidity is provided while the snake is shedding. Hatchling corn snakes will eat crickets, but should be switched to pinkies as soon as possible. Corn snakes can eat frozen mice or live mice, although frozen mice are much easier for them to swallow and digest. It is important to thaw frozen mice in warm water for 10-15 minutes prior to feeding. It is also important to feed in a separate container than the terrarium the corn snake is housed in, as this will reduce aggression towards people. After eating, the snake should not be handled for at least 6 hours. While hatchlings should be fed 2-3 times weekly, juveniles and adults can be fed weekly. Adult corn snakes can reach a length of 4-6’. Corn snakes can be terrestrial and arboreal, so a variety of decorations should be provided to climb on and burrow under. It is also important that some decorations are abrasive so that the snake can rub against them in order to help remove skin while shedding. Snakes can be very temperamental while shedding, and shouldn’t be handled during the course of the shed.
Redfoot/Yellowfoot Tortoise
Place of Origin: South America
Diet: Variety of Fruits and Veggies
Heating: Tropical Heat/Basking Bulb or Pad
UV Lighting: Tropical
Substrate: Repti-Bark, Coco Husk, Plantain Soil, Moss
Housing: 40 Gallon Breeder Aquarium/Terrarium
General Info: Redfoot and Yellowfoot tortoises have a lifespan of several decades when properly cared for. These tortoises reach a size of 12” (dinner plate size). Veggies should be provided daily, and fruits 2-3 times weekly. These tortoises also require high and constant levels of humidity (no less than 50%). Daytime temperatures should be between 80 and 85 degrees, and nighttime temperatures should not get below 75 degrees. Since these tortoises are terrestrial, ample substrate for burrowing is needed. Younger tortoises without proper diet/calcium intake can develop soft spots on their shells and crusted-over eyes. While these conditions are treatable, they are easily prevented.
Bearded Dragons
Place of Origin: Australia
Diet: Fruits/Veggies, Crickets, Meal/Super worms, pinkies
Heat: Desert Heat/Basking Bulb or Pad
UV Lighting: Desert
Substrate: Walnut Shell, Calcium Sand, Excavator Clay, Coco Husk
Housing: 40 Gallon Breeder Aquarium/Terrarium
General Info: Bearded dragons are extremely friendly reptiles. They are easily handled, docile in nature, and are great with children. Adults can reach a length of 2-2.5’. Males and females cannot be kept together as adults due to their tendency for fighting, but males can be kept with other males and females can be kept with other females provided that they are introduced at a young age. Daytime temperatures should be between 85-95 degrees, and nighttime temperatures should not get below 75 degrees. Since Bearded Dragons come from arid environments, no humidity is required. Bearded Dragons are terrestrial, so ample substrate is needed for burrowing. Hatchlings will almost exclusively eat insects, but the sooner veggies and fruits can be introduced the better. Bearded Dragons will need some form of food everyday. Younger Bearded Dragons will eat insects daily, but adults will eat veggies daily and insects weekly. Fruits should be provided 1-2 times weekly. Pinkies can be fed to adults as treats 2-3 times monthly. Due to constant exposure to high-wattage lighting, bathing Bearded Dragons every other week is recommended.
Halloween Crab
Place of Origin: Mexico/Panama
Diet: Variety of Fruits/Veggies
Heating: Tropical Heat Bulb/Pad
UV Lighting: Tropical (optional)
Substrate: Walnut Shell, Sand/Calcium Sand, Coco Husk, Plantain Soil, Moss
Housing: 10 Gallon Aquarium/Terrarium
General Info: Halloween crabs are land crabs that live on beaches and in rainforests close to water. These crabs are nocturnal, and remain burrowed for most of the day. Because of this, ample substrate is required. It is recommended that the day/night cycle of Halloween Crabs be the opposite of yours; use Infrared Heating Bulbs during the day and regular Tropical Heat Bulbs at night so that the crab will be more inclined for activity when you are able to see. These crabs are found in tropical regions, and therefore require a moderate and constant humidity level (40-50% at least). Daytime temperatures should be between 75-85 degrees with nighttime temperatures not reaching below 72 degrees. Halloween crabs should be given access to food daily. Halloween crabs also require sponges to be able to drink. Simply place a hermit crab sponge in the water dish. Halloween Crabs can be kept together, but can fight when not given enough space. Crabs kept together should be of a similar size.
Madagascar Ground Gecko
Place of Origin: Madagascar (Africa)
Diet: Crickets, Meal Worms
Heating: Desert Heat/Basking Bulb or Pad
UV Lighting: Desert
Substrate: Walnut Shell, Coco Husk, Plantain Soil
Housing: 5 Gallon Aquarium/Terrarium
General Info: An excellent reptile for beginners; Madagascar Ground Geckos are small, terrestrial geckos found on the beaches and scrub of southern Madagascar. These geckos grow to a length of 4-6”. These geckos are strictly insectivores; smaller geckos should be fed 2-3 times weekly, adults can be fed weekly. Humidity levels should be relatively low but constant (no less than 15-20%). Daytime temperatures should be kept between 75-80 degrees, with nighttime temperatures of at least 72 degrees. These geckos are nocturnal, and should be provided a hide to shelter in during the day.
Hermit Crab
Place of Origin: Tropical Environments
Diet: A Variety of Fruits/Veggies, Freeze-Dried Protiens
Heating: Tropical Heat Bulb/Pad
UV Lighting: Tropical (optional)
Substrate: Sand, Walnut Shell, Coco Husk
Housing: 5-10 Gallon Aquarium/Terrarium
General Info: There are 1100 species of hermit crabs. Most terrestrial hermit crabs are found in tropical environments along shores and beaches. Hermit Crabs are nocturnal, and require ample substrate to burrow during the day. A mix of fruits and veggies should be provided daily, with a protein such as krill or shrimp 1-2 times weekly. Hermit crabs require constant humidity levels of no less than 50%. Terrestrial Hermit Crabs often submerge themselves in water, so providing a large water dish in which the crab can be fully covered with water is recommended. Some enthusiasts keep hermit crabs in aquariums with a sand bank on one side and a small water pond on the other (see a Team Member for more details). Hermit Crabs are also excellent climbers, so it is recommended that decorations such as driftwood, rocks, and vines are provided. Healthy Hermit Crabs will always carry a shell with them, only leaving it to search for a bigger one. It is very important that you provide a few varying sizes of shells at all times. The Hermit Crab will switch shells when it is ready. Daytime temperatures of 75-80 degrees should be maintained, with nighttime temperatures reaching no less than 72 degrees.
White’s Tree Frog
Place of Origin: Australia/ New Guinea
Diet: Crickets
Heating: Tropical Heat Bulb/Pad
UV Lighting: Tropical (optional)
Substrate: Coco Husk, Plantain Soil, Moss
Housing: 10 Gallon Aquarium/Terrarium
General Info: White’s Tree Frogs are excellent starter frogs. They reach a maximum size of 4” and can be kept with other frogs of a similar size without issue. White’s Tree Frogs are nocturnal. During the day, these frogs will seek to hide in dark, damp places; so moss caves/logs or frog plants should be provided. White’s Tree Frogs should be fed 2-3 times weekly throughout their entire lives. As they are extremely sensitive to drops in humidity, high and constant humidity levels should be maintained (no less than 60%). Daytime temperatures should be 75-80 degrees, with nighttime temperatures reaching no less than 72 degrees.
Pink Toe Tarantula
Place of Origin: South America
Diet: Crickets, Meal/Super Worms, Small Pinkies (adults)
Heating: Tropical Heat Bulb/Pad
UV Lighting: Tropical (optional)
Substrate: Repti-Bark, Coco Husk, Plantain Soil
Housing: 5 Gallon Aquarium/Terrarium
General Info: Pink Toe Tarantulas are arboreal tarantulas that require somewhat tall habitats in order to climb. When molting, however, these tarantulas will want to hide inside or under something. Therefore, plenty of branches and hides are needed. Pink Toe Tarantulas come from very tropical areas, and should be kept in relatively high and constant humidity (no less than 50%). Though not nocturnal, Pink Toe Tarantulas are not often active, and typically wait for prey to come to them. While their first mechanism of defense is attempting to flee, Pink Toe Tarantulas can bite and shoot their quills like projectiles. Tarantula venom is akin to that of hornets; only those allergic will need immediate medical attention. Being stuck with the quills of the tarantula causes burning and itching sensations underneath the skin. Daytime temperatures should be between 75 and 80 degrees, with nighttime temperatures of at least 72 degrees. It is not recommended that multiple tarantulas be kept together. These tarantulas can reach a size of 6”. Crickets should be fed 2 times weekly. Pinkies can be fed occasionally, but not as a staple diet.
Rose Hair Tarantula
Place of Origin: Chile, Bolivia, Argentina
Diet: Crickets, Meal/Super Worms, Pinkies (adults)
Heating: Desert Heat Bulb/Pad
UV Lighting: Desert (optional)
Substrate: Walnut Shell, Coco Husk
Housing: 5 Gallon Aquarium/Terrarium
General Info: Rose Hair Tarantulas are found in arid desert environments, and do not require much humidity. These are terrestrial tarantulas, and require ample substrate to burrow in. Additionally, caves and other hides are recommended as this spider is somewhat nocturnal. These will also allow the tarantula to hide while molting. Crickets should be 2 times weekly. While their first mechanism of defense is attempting to flee, Rose Hair Tarantulas can bite and shoot their quills like projectiles. Tarantula venom is akin to that of hornets; only those allergic will need immediate medical attention. Being stuck with the quills of the tarantula causes burning and itching sensations underneath the skin. Daytime temperatures should be between 80-82 degrees, with nighttime temperatures of at least 75 degrees. Rose Hair Tarantulas reach 6”. They should not be kept with other tarantulas.
Kenyan Sand Boa
Place of Origin: Northern Africa
Diet: Crickets (hatchlings), Pinkies (juveniles), Fuzzies/Rat Pups (adults)
Heating: Desert Heat Bulb/Pad
UV Lighting: Desert (optional)
Substrate: Walnut Shell, Calcium Sand
Housing: 20 Gallon Aquarium/Terrarium
General Info: Kenyan Sand Boas are small constricting snakes that are easily cared for. They reach a maximum length of 2’. Kenyan Sand Boas remain completely buried under the ground during the day, and come out at night to hunt and feed. Because of this, ample substrate is required in the enclosure. Kenyan Sand Boas are desert-dwelling snakes, so humidity is not essential. Daytime temperatures should be between 80-85 degrees, with nighttime temperatures of at least 72 degrees. Kenyan Sand Boas, like most constricting snakes, prefer live food over frozen. It is important to feed in a separate container than the terrarium the sand boa is housed in, as this will reduce aggression towards people. After eating, the snake should not be handled for at least 6 hours. While hatchlings should be fed 2-3 times weekly, juveniles and adults can be fed weekly. Abrasive surfaces should be provided in order to help remove skin during the shedding process. Snaked can be very temperamental during shedding and should not be handled until the shed is complete.
Ball Python
Place of Origin: Africa
Diet: Pinkies (hatchlings), Fuzzies/Rat Pups (juveniles), Mice (sub-adults), Rats (adults)
Heating: Tropical Heat/Basking Bulb or Pad
UV Lighting: Tropical
Substrate: Repti-Bark, Coco Husk, Plantain Soil, Aspen Chips
Housing: 55 Gallon Aquarium/Terrarium
General Info: Ball Pythons are somewhat tropical constrictors that are found in grasslands and sparsely-wooded areas. They require somewhat constant levels of humidity (no less than 50%). Both arboreal and terrestrial, Ball Pythons require plenty of branches/vines to climb on, and rocks/caves to hide in. These hides will be especially useful after the Ball Python eats, or during its shed. After eating, Ball Pythons should not be handled for at least 6 hours, and should be handled as little as possible during the course of the shed. It is also important to feed in a separate container from that which the Ball Python is housed in regularly. This helps reduce aggression. Ball Pythons typically reach a maximum size of 6’, but can grow as large as 8’. Ball Pythons, like most constricting snakes, prefer live over frozen food, and should be fed weekly.
Fire-Bellied Toads