Mini Float Set for The

Assembly Instructions

Congratulations on purchasing the ultimate upgrade for your r/c airplane! These floats have been designed to be lightweight, effective, easy to install and remove. This document covers the assembly and general installation of all float sizes. Please visit FoamFloats.com for more mounting information – and please send or email us your pictures!

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED

1. For 30” and smaller floats: 2” packing tape or low temp iron-on covering (like Oracover, Towerkote, Superkote, Solite, Ultracote) For 35” and larger floats: Balsa or Obechi sheeting or Fiberglassing materials (like EZ lam). Plastic cardboard (aka Coroplast) can also be used to protect float bottoms from rocky shores.

2. Can of 3M77 FOAM SAFE spray adhesive (if using tape for covering)

3. Epoxy or ProBond glue (24 hr set time) or other foam-safe glue

4. Small hand drill with mini bit

5. Small “flat head” screwdriver

1. EXAMINE FLOATS: The blue foam is waterproof and offers a very smooth exterior. It dings easily, but dings magically disappear when iron-on covering or sheeting is applied - but be careful not to ding your floats! Use the beds the floats came in to test covering materials and glue. Covering the floats makes them quite ding proof, and if you are using a gas engine you will need to sheet or cover them.

2. GLUE AND SPAR FLOATS: 35” and longer floats come in multiple pieces and must be glued together. 25” Wide floats and larger also come with a spar that must be glued into place. Poking small holes in the foam can increase the strength of the bond.

3. COVER FLOATS: Low Temperature Iron-on covering is considered the best way to cover floats 16”-25. If you are planning on flying a float set asap (on a small electric airplane), then you need only cover the float bottoms with packing tape (to allow for greater acceleration). To do this the float bottoms must be prepared with 3M77 spray adhesive (so the tape will adhere). Insert the floats back into their beds so that only the bottom of the floats are exposed. Spray the bottoms well with 3M77 adhesive and ensure you get good coverage. If a drop or glob of the spray hits the foam quickly spread it, as un-spread drops will melt the foam! Let the adhesive dry for 5-8 minutes before covering. You will need to sheet or cover the entire float if you are flying a gas airplane as the fuel will melt the foam. Covering larger floats with fluted plastic (aka Coroplast) makes for an extremely durable bottom (good for rocky shorelines and heavy planes). The raw foam can also be painted with foam-safe enamel (such as Testors). Using 1/32 balsa, Obechi, or fiberglass are other great ways to sheet and cover your floats.

4. MOUNT HARDPOINTS: Deciding where the hardpoints are to be placed requires knowing the float fore/aft position of the float set on the aircraft. To figure out this placement, setup your aircraft on blocks and slip your floats below it. Arrange the floats so the step of the float sits just behind your aircrafts Center of Gravity (CG). The actual distance behind the CG depends on the length but in general ranges from ½” (16” float size) to 1½” (60” float size). The fore hardpoint will then be placed where your main gear wire meets the float set. The aft hardpoint will be placed at a convenient place behind the float step. This point should be chosen for ease of mounting the rear wire to the airplane fuselage. Epoxy (or ProBond) the plywood hardpoints to the float atop the spar (if any).

5. CREATE REAR WIRE MOUNT: Once the placement is found, your current main gear wire will be used for the fore hardpoint, and you will then make a rear gear wire that mounts to the aircraft fuselage and meets the aft hardponit on the float (behind the float step). For tricycle gear aircraft you will need to run a beam between the floats that meets the nose gear. It should be possible to use one of the spreader rods for this purpose. The best placement and way to mount your rear wire to your aircraft depends on the airframe. Find a bulkhead and/or reinforce a point on the aircraft near the back of the wing on your fuselage, and bend the rear wire so that it is similar to your main gear wire (for tail-draggers). Make sure the rear wire is equal to, or slightly lower than your main gear wire. This will give the aircraft a small Angle of Attack (AoA) to allow it to climb off the water. Too much AoA will cause the aircraft to “jump” off the water and it could possibly stall on takeoff – very bad. At the same time too little (or sometimes even equal) AoA can force the model towards the water and cause a very long take-off run – if it takes off at all. Be prepared to experiment with this.

Rear wire mount example

6. ATTACH STRAPS: Lay one of your landing gear straps atop a ply/balsa hardpoint and use a small hand twist drill (with tiny bit) to start a hole in the plywood to get your screw started, Be sure when screwing in your straps to place your fingers tight on each side of the screw so it is supported and the screwdriver won’t strike your float when it slips out of the screw head.

7. INSERT SPREADER RODS: Now slip your spreader rods under the straps, leaving at least ½” out the other side of the strap. Having the same distance of rod outside the straps both fore and aft can allow you to judge any toe-in or toe-out you might have in your floats. You can use rubber bands (for smaller models) and/or wheel collars to ensure the rods and wire don’t slip out of the straps.

8. MOUNT FLOATS: Slide in your main gear mounting wire into the straps with your spreader rods and screw down tight. Then using rubber bands and/or wheel collars make sure the mount is tight. Wrapping the rubber band over and around the strap/wire/rod will keep the mounting tight. Then repeat this procedure for the rear wire attach points.

16” float main gear mounting wire

9. FINAL CHECK: That’s it! Take one final check to be sure your float mounting is secure and tight. Ensure your AoA is slightly positive (rear wire is slightly shorter) or equal and your prop has ample clearance from the waterline. Take the aircraft to the water and do a floatation test. If the rear of the floats are totally submerged then your floats are too far forward. Bending the fore/rear mounting wires can (usually) move the floats aft for quick adjustment. Ensure your aircraft is balanced correctly with the floats on, and if not, move equipment in your aircraft to achieve balance across your aircrafts CG. Also be sure that the tail of your aircraft stays out of the water when it is tapped down, and that your floats extend just beyond your airscrew (in standard tractor type aircraft).

Float Flying Tips

1. Wear trunks or have a recovery method ready such as fishing pole (with tennis ball “sinker”) or boat (r/c boats work great!). Float flying is for intermediate and advanced pilots only and not for the faint of heart.

2. One way to first fly a lightweight floatplane is to check balance and hand launch the aircraft from the shore (if possible) for the first flight. Fly it about, trimming as necessary to get a balanced and trimmed aircraft. Now land it in the water. You should then be ready to attempt your first ROW (Roll off Water). For larger aircraft, the first flight should be a short “hop” that gives you an idea how much room it takes to get on step and break free from the water. Once airborne a short circuit around the lake is suggested to see how the aircraft handles with the floats.

3. TAKING OFF: Taking off and landing a floatplane can be a challenge. If flying lightweight floatplanes try to fly with the wind at your back – that way when the aircraft “weathervanes” it will point towards you for an easy taxi back to shore. Prepare for difficulty in steering very light models on water with wind. Always take off into the wind and slowly advance your throttle (especially for high torque motors). Keeping your elevator slightly in the “up” position while you accelerate can help keep the nose of your floats out of the water during the take off run. Relax the up elevator and your aircraft should rotate up “on step”. It will then only take a small touch of up elevator to begin a climb out. Do NOT climb too steeply on take off. Don’t try to wrestle a float plane from the water. You probably have an AoA or power problem and things will go from bad to worse if you try to force it into the air. Taking off from very calm water is more difficult than with chop in the water. You can taxi around to disturb the water so taking off is easier (or throw some rocks in!).

4. LANDING: Follow the best landing procedures you have learned as an rc pilot. Always land into the wind and give yourself a long approach route. Take a wide final turn and slowly decrease throttle while keeping your nose level - allow the aircraft to sink gently in. Land under a bit of power rather than plopping the plane down – skid it in! Flare the aircraft only if you have mastered landing your heavier aircraft in this way.

5. First-time float flying should be in little to NO wind for lightweight aircraft. It’s worth waiting for. Float flying lightweight aircraft is difficult when you can gain/loose many feet of altitude from downdrafts. Also wind can easily get under a lightweight planes’ wing and flip it over while it is taxiing on the water. See it as a challenge and treat it with respect!

6. Taxiing float planes without a water rudder takes some practice. Lots of throttle will sometimes not give you the desired turn so experiment with your rudder throw and work with the aircraft to turn it. Consider adding a water rudder for perfect taxiing.