to build a Mithrim throne

Materials required

0.5”(12mm) thickness plywood of 2772”2 surface area.

If your using several smaller pieces, you need the following:

20.5” x 40” for the back piece

17.5” x 20.5 for the seat

20.5 x 36” (twice) for the sides

Jigsaw

Wood file

Glasspaper (at least 4 sheets)

Wood seal in your choice of colour

Paintbrush

Drill

12mm wood-boring bit

24mm wood-boring bit

Step 1

Cut the back piece and seat out (figure 1). Use figure 2 for detail on the pegs.

Cutting plywood

When marking out the lines to cut on the wood, always draw on the same side and cut while looking at the lines. This is because plywood splinters easily on the top side when using a jigsaw, but the underside is relatively smooth. By always marking and cutting on the same side, it means one side of the wood will be neat and useable as the presented side.

Cutting the peg holes

Place the 24mm wood-borer in the centre of the peg and begin drilling. When the centre pin (not the main blade) of the wood-borer pierces the other side, stop and start drilling again from the other side, using the small hole as a guide. This will stop any splintering.

When the back and seat are done, cut out the outline of the sides (figure 3). At this time don’t worry about any decoration. Now draw the line of the side piece. The line should start 6” from the base of side, and 3.5” in from the edge. (NOTE: the back piece does not go all the way to the ground!). The line should terminate out the top of the side 2.5” from the edge.

To mark the seat line, it will begin 17” up from the base on the side, and terminate where it reaches the back piece (this should be 16” up from the base). The seat and the back should be at an approximate 90° angle to each other.

Marking the peg slots

(NOTE: complete these instruction for one side, not both!).

Although the peg slots should be exact distances along the back and seat lines, always draw the outline of the pegs by laying the back and seat over the lines. This will account for any errors made in cutting out the pieces. At this point label each peg and (soon the be) slot. The slots will take a lot of fiddling to get right, and each will be slightly different. When marking the pegs, make sure the best looking sides are the ones you’ll be seeing. The slots are initially 0.5” wide and 2” in length.

Cutting the peg slots

Use the 12mm wood-borer to drill 2 holes at either end of the slot marking (figure 4), drill halfway, then switch to the other side as described above. Make sure to inset the wood-borer 6mm from the end. Clear the slot with the jigsaw. Now fiddle, file and cut the slot so that the peg fits into it, but doesn’t rattle around. This bit is rather difficult and annoying. With the peg slots cut, lie the first side on the second and draw around the inside of the slots onto the other side. Now cut and clean the slots as before.

Now the chair can be assembled for the first time. If you use some off-cuts as wedges for the peg-holes, it will be as strong as it ever will be.

Step 2

Compose and cut into the chair whatever design you wish. Remember not to weaken the chair by leaving large pieces supported by thin pieces of wood. Also, make sure to draw and cut on the non-neat side as described above.

Step 3

Clean the wood by first filing the edges so that they are slightly rounded. Then go over every edge and surface with the glass paper. There must no rough patches or edges left, as the woodstain will harden these and they will always look pooh.

Step 4

Woodstain the throne. Do each piece individually, as they will stick together otherwise. Do at least 2 coats, but you don’t need to sand in between them.

Leave the stain to dry overnight (regardless of “dries in 60 minutes” labels) – as even touch-dry stain will still stick the wood together.

Step 5

Enjoy.

Dan Townsend