The two wires with the white connector for the ECU go to your two distributorconnection wires.
If you have a connector from and old distributor you could use that would be great.
Wire connectors can be used if need be.
Don’t seal up those wires permanently just yet.
They may need to be swapped to correct rotor phasing.
Generally the red wire will go to your distributor positive lead, but the wire colors vary for different years. (most of the time the black goes to black)
If you try to fire up your motor and it does not start or runs crappy, then swap the two wires connected to the distributor.
The ECU must be grounded by mounting the aluminum back to a ground. (Coil does not require grounding)
Large red wire from coil is 12 volt + and should be hot (12v) during start and run positions of ignition.
(If you are running a ballast resistor you will need to bypass it with a jumper, or eliminate itas this system uses a direct 12 volt connection)
Small white wire from coil is the tach lead.
This would be the usually green tach wire that used to go to your coil negative terminal.
You don’t need to ground anything but the ECU
Use the supplied screws, or sheet metal screws to mount the ECU in a convenient spot that is grounded body metal, or by connecting a ground to one of the screws holding the ECU to the aluminum.
Try not to disturb the heatsink compound between the ECM and the aluminum heatsink on the ECM.
Put the supplied coil wire on the coil and into the distributor cap.
(you will need to use one of the end contacts and cover from your original coil wire)
Just bend the center wire core over and crimp the metal piece onto the new wire.
Fire up your car to test, then check your timing and readjust if necessary.
Change the gap on your plugs to .045and you are done. (This gap is mandatory, as the ignition system will not be as efficient without doing it)
AGAIN If the engine misses and runs bad, or fails to start, then reverse the two wires at the distributor.
NOTE
You may want to readust your idle mixture, as this system requires a little less fuel. (Not critical)
To keep your existing system intact for now.
Jump both connections (if ballast is a two wire design) across the ballast and use your existing coil positive wire to power the new coil at the red wire. (You can leave the original coil ground connected for now)
Then mount the new coil to one of the stock coil bracket bolts, or to the firewall or fender.
Stabilize the ECU so it doesn’t just flop around. (Remember, the ECU MUST be mounted to a grounded surface)
When you want to mount it to more permanently pull the two screws that hold the ECU and heatsink together and put sheet metal screws through the holes and mount it.
(Be a little careful about the compound between the ECU and aluminum when you do, as to not disturb it too much)
Once you are ready to change over to the HEI permanently, then you can run a dedicated ignition power wire to the coil, and take the screws out of the ECU and heatsink, then screw them to the firewall or inner fender for mounting and grounding of the ECU.
Thank you for choosing the Classic HEI system.
You now have one of the most powerful and reliable ignition systems ever designed.
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