What’s What in Aberdeen
Aberdeen is a great place to live and to visit, but you do need some inside information to find the good stuff. Here’s a guide to help you out, and some suggestions of things to do while you are here, especially if you are a free agent while your partner is busy being intellectual at the Library.
Transport: The city centre isn’t very big, and lots of the distances are walkable. Bus services are good but expensive. City buses are run by First bus: There will be route map in your conference pack. Routes 1 and 2 go to the King Street side of the campus. Route19 goes to Bedford Road, behind the Sir Duncan Rice Library. Out of town buses are run by StagecoachBluebird: In town, if there are three or four of you travelling together, it may be cheaper to take a taxi instead. Call Comcabs on 01224 353535 or Rainbow Taxis on 01224 344800.
Safety: Generally Aberdeen is a safe place to roam around. There’s very little petty crime and most folks are friendly and willing to give directions—that is, if you can understand the “Doric” accent. But, as with any city, there’s a huge social mix, and because it’s a small city, you’ll see all sorts of folks. So, don’t be naïve. Stay on main or busy thoroughfares in the evening—even though it isn’t dark until after 10pm. Because of the many pubs and clubs, the city centre can get very noisy, and occasionally rowdy, late at night at the weekend. Scotland’s reputation for hard-drinking is well-earned, but it’s mostly shouting, and you’re very, very unlikely to run into real trouble. I’ve lived here since 1990 and have never even witnessed a proper punch-up. Aberdeen Harbour is a working port, and is also a notorious pick-up zone, day and night. Don’t be tempted to go in search of a scenic marina—there isn’t one. You’ll only find oil silos, tattoo parlours and some very shady pubs. If you are going home late from town to Old Aberdeen, a taxi is a good idea. You can get one at the railway station or at the taxi ranks on Back Wynd or Dee Street, or after midnight on Union Street itself. Please remember that British cars drive on the left. So when you are crossing the road, traffic comes at you from the right, which may not be what you expect. Always look both ways.
Weather: The only predictable thing about a Scottish spring is that it will be unpredictable. It’s just impossible to say what the weather will be like in April. There could be glorious spring sunshine or it could snow. Both of these things might happen in the same afternoon. It will probably rain at some point. So, come prepared for a range of weathers. Pack some warm clothes and a waterproof.
Emergencies: Hopefully, you won’t need any of these contacts, but just in case …
Fire, Police, Ambulance: dial 999
Old Aberdeen Medical Practice: 12 Sunnybank Road, Old Aberdeen, 01224 486702
NHS 24, out of hours health-care line: dial 111
Baird’s Pharmacy, 519 King Street, 01224 483783
Old Town Dental Practice, 519 King Street, 01224 483666
ATMs: On campus at The Hub student centre on Elphinstone Road (see campus maps). You can also find an ATM at Esso/Tesco on King Street. From Crombie Halls, head east along University Road. You’ll also find the pharmacy, and a pub at the end of this road. The Tesco supermarket at the filling station is open until 10pm.
Things to do
Explore Old Aberdeen: Find the High Street on campus and head north towards the Old Town House, once the city’s civic headquarters. It’s now an exhibition space. So, pop in to see some highlights from the University’s collections. Cross St Machar Drive to The Chanonry, Aberdeen’s most exclusive address. You’ll see why. On your left is the Cruickshank Botanical Gardens, seven acres of horticultural splendour. Don’t be put off by the big teaching building at the gate. Be bold, follow the paths and go through all the secret gates. If it’s sunny, bring a coffee and a book and escape. Alternatively, head on up The Chanonry to St Machar’s Cathedral—or what’s left of it. There has been a church here since the sixth-century and a cathedral since the twelfth. Oliver Cromwell pulled some of it down in the seventeenth century, and many of the big houses nearby were built with stone plundered from the rubble. Nevertheless, what remains is worth a visit. The church is open most days from 10am-4pm. Past the Cathedral you’ll find Seaton Park. If you feel adventurous you can follow the river right round to Brig O’Balgownie where Byron used to play as a child. It’s much the same now. Cross the bridge, keep going, and you’ll find yourself heading to the beach. Donmouth Beach on the north of the river is very unspoiled with amazing sand dunes. Or loop back across the big bridge via King Street or Don Street towards the campus. Seaton Park is beautiful, but big and very quiet. So, take a friend and enjoy—but it’s not wise to ramble here in the evening.
Promenade like an Aberdonian.Take the No 17 or No 18 bus from Union Street near Waterstones, or from Powis Place off Bedford Road—go out behind the Library, turn left and then left again at the intersection. This bus will take you all the way to Duthie Park. This is the gem of Aberdeen’s many Victorian public parks. There is a boating pond, two play parks, a massive Winter Garden, a café, and if you’re lucky you’ll even catch a cricket match on the green. Buy an ice cream and just wander about. If you want a proper walk, you can head west along the riverfront to the old Bridge of Dee—medieval and still in daily use. Or if you want to eat nearby, try the Inn at the Park on Polmuir Road. Alternatively walk back up Polmuir Road, turn left at the church, and right at the lights onto Bon-Accord Street. You’ll find Ferryhill House Hotel on your right, which has a big garden to sit in if it’s sunny, or a very snug restaurant and bar if it’s pouring.
Visit the Maritime Museum on Ship Row. Over the centuries, Aberdeen’s wealth has been based on fishing, whaling, ship-building and oil. This place would be nothing without the sea. The Maritime Museum tells the story of the city’s shipping and industrial history in a wonderfully quirky and stylish building with spectacular views of the boats in the harbour. Opposite Broad Street (and the Aberdeen Town House) cut through the wee lane towards the harbour and turn right down the hill. It’s a compact museum which takes less than an hour to do properly, but it’s the best way to get a feel for the city and its past. And, yes, there is a tea shop.
Shop, shop, shop. Despite the downturn in global oil prices, Aberdeen remains a wealthy city, and shopping is the local sport. Union Square is a big, glossy mall beside the railway station. It’s great for restaurants (see Where and What to Eat), a multi-screen cinema, and has chain stores such as Zara, Next, Joules, H&M etc. There are lots of shoe shops here, if that’s your thing. Closer to the Art Gallery on Schoolhill, you’ll find the Bon-Accord Centre, also mostly chain stores, but there is better clothes shopping here for those of us over forty, including a John Lewis department store. There are also good cafes in here for lunches, although everything closes at 6pm. If you are feeling rich, or just like looking at fancy stuff, head for the West End of Union Street and the area around Thistle Street and Chapel Street. There are some very exclusive boutiques and galleries up this end of town. Nova is a great shop for gifts and posh kitchenware. Walk out a little further to the solid granite “West End” and view some of Britain’s most expensive real-estate—but maybe you weren’t thinking of spending quite that much money? For books, head to Waterstones on Union Street, perched on the edge of Union Bridge, the largest single-span iron bridge anywhere in the world. (Some new-fangled thing called steel came along next.) Also explore Books and Beans on Belmont Street for second-hand books, coffee and cake. There are some nice independent shops and cafes nearby, including MacBeans speciality coffees and teas, and a great art-house cinema, The Belmont. If you want to buy Scottish souvenirs, head to Alex Scott the Kiltmakers, 43 Schoolhill, opposite the Art Gallery.
Dust off the sports kit. The University of Aberdeen has recently invested millions in new sports facilities near the campus at Aberdeen Sports Village. International sports squads now come here to train. However, the buildings were part-funded by the city council and are open to the public. There’s everything you can think of, including squash courts, gym facilities, a full-sized indoor football pitch, and a competition-grade Aquatics Centre. If you show a student or staff card from any university you can get concession rates. Enter from King Street for the Aquatics Centre or Linksfield Road for other facilities. For times and prices, visit If you are here with kids and just want a splashy family swim, head for The Beach Leisure Centre, at (guess where) the Beach, where the pool has flumes and a wave machine.
Go paddling: Talking of the Beach, it’s also well worth a visit. There’s a three-mile stretch of sand and an old-fashioned boulevard (known locally as “The Boulie”). As is traditional in Britain, there’s also a tacky games arcade and fun-fair (take your kids, if you have some—they’ll love it) and a strip of cheap and cheerful cafes.I’m partial to a bacon softie (that’s a bacon roll to you) and chips (err, fries) at the Washington Café. Follow this up with some Irn-Bru flavoured ice-cream. If you don’t know what Irn-Bru is, order some of that too. If you’re eating out-doors, watch out for the seagulls. They’ll take a sandwich out of your hand if you’re not concentrating. There’s also a cinema nearby, a bowling alley, crazy golf and some big chain restaurants.Or your can dip your toes in the water. Swimming here is only for the brave—though you will see folks doing it, even in April. The water is very, very cold. If you prefer your seaside experience a little more nostalgic, walk along the waterfront towards the pier, ramble around the little old fishing cottages in Footdee (pronounced “Fittie”) and watch the boats leaving for the oilrigs. You can often see dolphins and porpoises here leading the boats out. Right beside the harbour quay, you’ll also find The Silver Darling, one of Britain’s best fish and seafood restaurants in an old harbour office with spectacular views of the bay and the lighthouse. Not cheap, but if you feel like blowing the budget, this is a good place to do it.
Visit a castle: Aberdeenshire has some of the most stunningmedieval castles in the country, ranging from the romantically ruined to the endearingly domestic. Crathes Castle and Fyvie Castle are both easy to visit by public transport and have hardly changed since the 1300s, except for the soft furnishings. For Crathes Castle on Deeside, take Stagecoach Bluebird bus numbers 201, 202 or 203 from Aberdeen bus station to the bus stop at the entrance to Crathes Estate (c. I hour). From here walk through the grounds to the castle—about a mile, but it’s a gorgeous walk. There’s a visitor centre, a café, a play-park and a walled garden. If I was filming Alice in Wonderland, I’dshoot here. For more info and prices see: Fyvie Castle take the 35 or X35 to Fyvie. Stop in the village centre and follow signs to the castle, again a 15-20 minute walk through the grounds. It’s a bit more rugged than Crathes and has a dark, troubled history—supposedly both cursed and haunted. Definitely worth the trip. Find out more at
Ifyou have a car or decide to rent one for the day you can range a little further. The closest car hire companies to the campus are: Arnold Clark on Canal Street or Enterprise Rent-a-Car at Skene Square: on the left, remember. Dunnottar Castle just south of Stonehaven is mostly ruined, and sits up on a cliff-top overlooking the sea: Take the A90 going south, follow signs for Stonehaven town centre (which does have a pretty traditional harbour) and you should get signposts from there. You need to walk a steep path to get there. So, this isn’t good if you aren’t too steady on your feet. Avoid high heels. At the other end of the luxury spectrum, you can visit the Royal Family at Balmoral Estate: Actually, they don’t usually come up here till August, which means you are free to enter the grounds without being taken down by Special Forces. Drive out Great Western Road (A83) through the towns of Royal Deeside. After Ballater (stop here and mooch about) follow the signs with Queen Victoria’s head. You won’t miss it. On the way home, stop in Aboyne at the Boat Inn near the river for the best fish and chips on Deeside.
Where and What to Eat
Fish and Chips: Unless you’re on a medically restricted dietyou really ought to have this at some point while you are here. It’s the local thing. Lots of places serve it, especially pubs, and it’s often pretty good there. You’ll get haddock, rather than cod, which is what you would get in England—but it’s just as tasty. The Bay chip shop in nearby Stonehaven (see above) recently won some national award—deservedly so. Get your fish and chips here if you can, and eat straight out of the paper wrapper on the beach. In the city centre, head for the Ashvale Fish Restaurant on Great Western Road. Head to the top of Union Street, left at Holburn junction and right at Archibald’s furniture store. Glamorous it ain’t, but it’s good value and a lot of fun. Just don’t count the calories.
Here are some more places worth knowing about that you might not find by yourself.
Café Boheme, Windmill Brae: very nice French restaurant. Mid-range prices, but they do very good value lunches and early suppers.
Café Fifty Two, The Green: From Union Street head down the steps opposite Belmont Street and turn left at the bottom. It’s a great little restaurant—verygood food for what you pay.
Carluccio’s at Union Square: Offshoot of the London Deli. Mostly Italian food, and again a great two-course bargain early in the evening. Gluten free pasta can be available for those who need it.
The Manchurian, Powis Place: Has an unprepossessing view of a plumbers’ yard, but who cares? The food is brilliant, and there’s a proper Chinese menu on request, if you know how to read it. The local Chinese community comes here to eat. Need I say more?
Musa, Exchange Street: Near the Railway station, but tucked away behind the Tivoli Theatre, this is a gallery, restaurant and sometimes a music venue.
Nargile, 77 Skene Street: Amazing Turkish restaurant. Have the Meze or Vezirbanquet. Also good for vegetarians.
Prince of Wales, St Nicholas Lane opposite M&S: A traditional pub which opened in 1850. Real ales and very good value lunches and suppers. It has the longest pub bar in Britain.
Rustico’s Italian Restaurant, Summer Street: Another good option for non-meat eaters and those eating gluten free. Don’t be fooled by how small it looks. There’s a big roof-top conservatory. Great food and hilarious waiters.
The Grill, on Union Street opposite the Music Hall: Best selection of malt whiskies on the planet. Good for a late-night glass of something.
There are also loads of good places to eat on Union Street or at Union Square. Explore and enjoy. HH