Last Updated: 2/1/07

WestKingdomDriving FAQs for Equestrian Marshals

Special Thanks to the American Driving Society Safety Committee and Lady Rachel of Bhakail (Rebbecca Morris) for text and insight.

What are the important items in terms of safe harness fit?

Collarsallow the horse to pull the vehicle forward with its shoulders. It is important that the collar fit relative to the shoulder: Collars should neither obscure the movement of the forelimbs nor impinge upon the trachea. If a full collar is used, it should be the proper size and fit well - it should rest on the shoulders and not be pinching the neck. The force of draft is distributed across the shoulders so these types of collars areused commonly with heavier vehicles and vehicles that have a fixed trace attachment (lack a single tree). In contrast, Breast Collars were originally designed for use on lighter vehicles that have a single tree, since the shoulder and the collar slide relative to each other and since the collar distributes the force of draft across a narrower area. There are period collar designs that do not fall into either of these to groups (for further information, please check out: J. Spruytte, Early Harness Systems, Hyperion Books (December, 1990). ISBN: 0851313760). When in doubt, remember, collars should neither obscure the movement of the forelimbs nor impinge upon the trachea.

Breechingacts as the brakes for the vehicle when the horse takes the weight of the vehicle upon its haunches. It is important that breeching fits relative to the haunches. The breeching should not sweep the hind legs from the horse/pony when in use, and it should not slide up under the dock when not in use. It should also be tight enough to act as a breaking mechanism (about a hands breadth of space is recommended). For singles, there are other braking systems such as wrap straps, tug stops, or thimbles. For multiples, the collar maybe fastened to the pole via a pole strap or yoke. These are safe systems as well as long as they are sufficiently tight and the vehicle is sufficiently light. When braking or backing modern vehicles, the horse’s rump should never touch the dash of the vehicle. For a quick and dirty method of assessing the braking ability of a harness, ask the driver to back. If the horse does not have enough reverse leverage to back readily on good ground they do not have enough braking power based on harnessing. For some period vehicles there is evidence that having the dash press on the rump was part of the braking mechanism. As long as the horse has been trained and there is adequate hock clearance, this method maybe appropriate.

Blinders/Blinkers/Winkers serve a dual purpose. They were initially used on multiples to protect the wheelers in particular from being hit in the eye with a lash directed at the leaders. They have the additional benefit of blocking the horse’s view of distractions such as the whip sailing over his/her head or the vehicle coming from behind. If used, the eye should be centered within the blinder. The cheek pieces should be tight to the sides of the horse’s face so there is no gap and the horse can not see between his cheek and the blinders. The blinders should not press against the eyes – if they do try re-bending the wire in the bridle to correct the problem.

Saddle/back pad serves as the attachment point for portions of the harness and may be involved in draft, braking, or none of the above. It rests behind the withers in roughly the same place as a ridden saddle. The girth may not need to be as tight as on a riding saddle. The gullet of the harness saddle should not press on the horse’s spine. Two wheeled vehicles will place more weight on the back pad than four wheeled. If used with a 2 wheeled vehicle, the saddleshould be wide enough to carry the additional weight. The Back strap helps keep the saddle from sliding forward and helps keeps the crupper flush against the horse’s dock. It should be tight enough that both roles are fulfilled but not so tight that is places undue stress on the tail.

Bridle fit: It is extremely important that bridles stay on hitched horses. At the same time, hitched horse have access to lots of stuff to rub on, thus a snug fit is imperative and driving bridles may fit tighter than riding bridles. The Crown pieceis frequently rigid on driving bridles to maintain blinder position. This characteristic makes it easier to slip the bridle off particularly if little pony ears are the only thing holding it on. As a result many drivers keep the Throat latchtighter than you would on a riding bridle. As long as it is not impinging on the trachea, this snugness is not a problem. Other solutions include braiding the bridle into the mane or forelock or adding a gullet strap that runs between the nose band and throat latch.

The Nose bandmay serve the purpose of maintaining blinder position if it runs through the cheek pieces. It may be involved in keeping the mouth closed or in keeping the bridle on the horse depending on design. In any case, nosebands should fit snugly but not inhibit breathing much like on a ridden bridle. Some bridles do not include nosebands. As long as the bridle stays on the horse’s head, the cheek pieces do not gap, and the driver has adequate control, this arrangement may be acceptable. Some drivers use drop, flash or figure-eight nose bands. This arrangement may also be acceptable also long as it does not inhibit breathing. The combination of a drop nose band and a leverage bit may indicate a problem.

Bitsshould fit correctly in horse’s mouth and bit fit is similar to ridden disciplines. If the bit is too low, the horse can get its tongue over a bit. Leverage bits with adjustable rein settings are common. Reins in the bottom slot may be indicative of a problem Snaffles may be used as well. Some checks fasten on the main bit. Others fasten to a bridoon used as a check bit.

Condition - Harnesses should not show evidence of excessive wear or cracking. Pay special attention to where the reins attach to the bit, any straps made of lighter weight leather than the rest of the harness, breeching straps, wrap straps, and pole straps. Buckles should not show evidence of wear.

What are the important items in terms of vehicle fit and safety?

It is safest to inspect unhitched vehicles. If someone brings a homemade vehicle that you are unfamiliar with, ask if they have hitched and driven it at home before the event, with this horse.

Wheels should be firm with all hub bolts present. Spoke fit is tricky and may be beyond woodworkers skilled in other areas. Spokes that are loose in the hub may indicate a problem. The expression “kicking the tires” probably refers to spoke fit. To check,push sideways onwood spokewheels. If the wood wheel flexes, then the joints aren't tight enough. Look for dry rot in the joints as this can contribute to laxity.

Metal tires should fit snugly against the felloe (rim)and should not be loose.Solidrubber tires should not be loose in the metal tire channel.The rubber should be supple and not dried out.Therubber tirechannel should fit snuggly against the woodfelloe (rim)and should not be loose. Solid rubber tires have one or two wires down the center. The tire rubber is cut slightly longer than the diameter of the wheel. The tires are wrapped around the metal tire channel and the rubber is pulled back from the wire. The wire is twisted together and the rubber edges are released.This set up puts the rubber tire under slight tension allowing it to resist nicks and stresses.The tire edges (seam) should be tight and not have a gap.There should be no large chunks of rubber missing from the tire. Theinner tire wire shouldNEVER be exposed.

Shafts and poles should not be so long that they present a catching hazard. How long is too long may depend on the activity. Generally speaking, poles and shafts should follow a straight line from the point of draft to the point of the horses shoulder. There will be some otherwise safe exceptions to this guideline. Poles and shafts that are low enough that a horse could step over them could indicate a problem. Cracks in the wood could indicate a problem. Again, check for dry rot. For further information on shaft fitting, download Dog Carts and Draft Dog Training, Tournament Illuminated Magazine, spring 2004, by Rebecca Morris (

King bolts and singletree bolts should be present and in good condition.

Clearance between the hocks and front of the vehicle and shafts should be maintained at all gaits. The horse’s hocks and rump should not touch the carriage. See comments under breeching for period exceptions.

What is the purpose of having and displaying three trots?

Slow trot - There are occasions where proceeding at a slow trot is better/safer than a walk: Driving a tandem or four, deep footing, heavy vehicles, traveling up hill, and matching pace with a group of horses. The slow trot is a nice adaptable pace and may have use in processions.

"Working" trot - In dressage, this means that the rear hoof is tracking up into, not beyond, the foot print of the front hoof. A laid back, possibly sluggish, horse may not quite achieve a true "working" trot, but it will have an intermediate gait that it can sustain all day that is faster than its slow trot and slower than its fast trot.

Trot-on - This is the gait (that is not a canter) that is likely to be used in a timed event. In an authorization it is good to see that a driver can push the horse with out creating a run away.

Top caliber driving horses have about 6-8 "gears" at the trot. Which three "gears" of those 6-8 get used at any given time is a function of vehicle, footing, number of horses in the hitch, the combination of individuals in the hitch, and how is everyone feeling at that moment. More limited driving horses will have fewer gears, however they should still display 3 distinct speeds. Newer drivers may not be able to find all the gears the horse has, but they should be able to find 3 distinct ones.

How do gaited horses fit in?

A flat walk is a walk. A canter is a canter. Everything in between (running walk, racking, tolting, fox trotting, stepping pace, paso double, pacing, ...) is a trot for the purposes of our rules. To get the three “trots”, the driver may use a combination of gaits of varying speed or one gait at three different speeds or at three different levels of collection and extension.

What are the concerns in regards to Cantering?

At the canter, the motion of the horse tends to roll from side to side. This shifting momentum translates down the shafts and the vehicle tends to rock from side to side. The resultant motioncontributes to turnovers, particularly when combined with rapid changes of direction. Singles to two-wheeled vehicles are particularly susceptible. Pairs/teams, cut-under-four-wheel vehicles, and modern CDE vehicles are all more resistant to turnovers secondary to cantering. Cantering on straight-aways or up-hill tends to be safer than cantering through tight turns, particularly if on a slope.

What are the concerns in regards to led or postillion-driven hitches?

Leading of hitched horses was common during some portions of period. It is seen less commonly today.

When leading a hitched single, you are in a perfect position to get skewered by the shaft if the horse jumps towards you (and withblinkers they can't see that you are there). It is much easier for the horse to wrench the reins out of yourhand if you are on the ground than if you are driving them, particularly if the shaft gets in the way. Two leaders – cross-tie style - or a well-trained horse and crew can minimize these problems.

If a led horse does get away from the handler, this circumstance creates a few concerns. Loose, hitched horses are "being chased" by thecarriage and tend to dart through openings that they fit through, butthe vehicle does not. Hence the concern with bridles remaining on hitchedhorses.

If there are passengers that do not have access to the reins, there is also a concern for the people on the vehicle without a means of regaining control. If a postillion falls, the same concern exists. Thorough training reduces the risk. If a passenger is on a vehicle without an on-board driver, it is possible to run a second set of reins that are taped in place and that the passengers can grab in case of emergency.

Modern vehicles are most stable when there is weight on the seat. Even at a walk, they bounce more when empty which complicates a runaway. This tendency is most noticeable whensomeone ground drives a hitched horse. If individuals are recreating period vehicles that are designed to be controlled from off the box, paying attention to suspension and center of gravity should reduce the risk.

What are the concerns in regards to whip handling?

Drivers do not have their legs to steer or encourage the horse to travel forward. Consequently, most but not all, drivers carry a whip. The drivers that do not carry a whip use their voice or slapping the reins to encourage the horse forward. Slapping the reins on the rump makes the bit wiggle in the mouth and will frustrate some horses. However this is more of a horsemanship than welfare or safety issue.

Drivers that do carry a whip may use it a lot. Frequently, more experienced drivers use the whip more than less experienced drivers. Experienced drivers are asking for bend and lateral work in addition to just “go forward”. Active use of the whip does not equal excessive use of the whip. Leaving welts or whipping of a visually exhausted horse could indicate a problem.

What are the concerns in regards to weapons handling?

The concerns are similar to a ridden horse that does not neck rein, with the added complication of the driver not have legs to steer with either. Many drivers are used to holding a whip and can steer with the reins held mostly in one hand (Aachenbach). The second hand is used to make minor adjustments to the reins. If taught to drive this way from the beginning, even beginners can learn this skill rapidly. However not all drivers have been taught this way. In authorizations, evaluate whether or not the driver seems like they could use the spare hand independently from the rein hand. If they can, weapons handling should be fine.

What are the concerns in regards to archery?

The driver should not be the one shooting since one-handed archery carries some significant challenges. If the passenger is shooting the concerns are similar to ridden archery.

What are the concerns in regards to combat?

All of the ridden combat forms currently allowed carry too high a risk of knocking someone off a carriage. This occurrence would be disastrous for a driver and not good even for a passenger. All the forms also carry too high a risk of brushing or tangling wheels and contributing to a turnover.

What are the concerns in regards to disabled drivers?

Those with hand and arm disabilities should still be able to drive. They may or may not be able to handle a whip or weapons. They may want to carry someone on the carriage to serve as a second set of hands. Weakness in the hands and arms is more of a challenge than absence of a hand or arm as driving can require hand, wrist, and shoulder strength.

Those with loco-motor or balance disabilities can drive well even if they can not ride. Mounting and dismounting from the carriage tends to be the challenge. Those who can not walk or bend well may want to have someone strong to help lift them up or down. It also helps if someone is in the carriage with the reins and if there is a header in front of the horse to keep the carriage still. Use caution with mounting blocks or stools since these can become tangled in the wheels.

Those with developmental disabilities drive well too as long as they are capable of understanding our rules and following a marshal’s instructions. Having an experienced driver accompany them, possibly with a second set of reins attached to the bridle works well.

If a mundane disabled driver comes with a trained horse and specialized equipment, take the opportunity to see how they do it. There are some fantastic modifications to vehicles to create wheelchair accessible carriages. The driver, horses, and service dogs each know how to help and keep thing safe.