Here is the residue my leaking water pump shaft seal caused. This has been leaking vapor since new 63k miles ago. It always took a little coolant addition to maintain level.

This was the easiest pump and thermostat I have ever changed.

Here are the basic steps…

Disconnect negative battery terminal. 10mm

Place front of car on jack stands.

Remove radiator drain plug and cap.

Remove passenger side lower engine plastic cowl. (2) 10mm bolts in wheel-well and a handful of plastic rivets.

Remove drive belt. (19mm) See forum thread on drive belt if you need more info.

Remove the 3 electrical connectors on the alternator. Squeeze then pull the two lower connectors to remove, upper connection cover slightly pull while pushing it towards battery. Then remove connection nut. 10 mm Tie wires off, out of the way.

Remove the two alternator bolts. 12mm & 14mm (12mm/18ft-lbs & 14mm/39 ft-lbs for installation)

Pull alternator up and toward front of car to remove.

If you are replacing the lower hose, then remove it from the thermostat housing.

The thermostat is now easily accessible, use a 10mm socket to remove the two nuts.

Note position of old thermostat, there is a small hole in it at the top (jiggle valve) to aid in removing air from the system.

I always test my new thermostats in a pan of water using a candy thermometer before installing them. I have found several that did not open and quite a few that do not close all the way.

Install o-ring on new thermostat and put a small amount of o-ring grease on it. Remove old stat/o-ring and place new one into place. Note; the new thermostat I got from NAPA did not have the small air purge hole (jiggle valve). I had no problem purging the system though.

I would suggest buying the OEM thermostat on the left; it appears to be a far better quality than the NAPA brand on right.

Put anti-seize on the thermostat housing studs and install the two nuts. 10mm, 96in.lbf.

If you are replacing the water pump…

Place new water pump in the same orientation as the one on the car, remove the six WP bolts one at a time (10mm), clean the threads and place them into the corresponding holes in the new pump. Several of the bolts can be reached easily from under the car.

Wipe off any dirt/oil that could get into WP cavity from the timing chain cover, then pull pump out. Swap bolts from new pump to old one, making sure they are in the correct hole. There are several different lengths.

Remove old o-ring from timing cover and clean o-ring cavity. Wipe a small amount of o-ring grease onto new o-ring and insert it into groove.

Replace WP being careful to tighten the bolts up equally and not to over torque them. I put a small amount of loc-tite on mine, but am unsure if this is necessary (there was some type of sealant on the threads when removed). I am pretty sure it was not anti-seize.

Note; the torque specs for the WP bolts are 80 in-lbs for 4 of them and 96 for the other two. I do not have a torque wrench small enough to fit in this tight area so I just used good judgment. You can set your torque wrench up in the vise at these settings and get a pretty good feel for it. These are very small diameter bolts and it would be easy to strip or break one.

Now just install the alternator, drive belt, radiator drain plug, battery terminal and fill the coolant system. Run/drive it until the coolant system is pressurized (upper hose will feel solid), then let it cool down completely and top off your coolant recovery tank as necessary. Mine took two cycles to get consistent level.

After a good check for any leaks, replace lower passenger engine cowl.

Now for the disclaimer…I may have forgotten something (I am an old fart) or typed (pecked) in incorrect info, so please think for yourself and be careful.