Summary of Crags in the North West – A Personal View
The next definitive Lancashire guidebook is now entering its final preparation stages. However, as it will not be available for a few months, the following summary is provided of the crags in the area. Where crags not previously described in the definitive guidebook are listed, a map reference is also given.
Les Ainsworth
Rochdale/Littleborough Area
Baitings Delph (SD 998186): A small grit quarry on the road between Littleborough and Ripponden, on the left about 2 miles from the White House. A dozen short, clean climbs. 2 mins from a layby.
Blackstone Edge: No developments on the gritstone edge, but plenty of bouldering has been opened up.
Castle Qy: Although this quarry in Todmorden looks rather dank, it contains some excellent E1s. Unfortunately, there is currently no access, but we are working on it.
Cow’s Mouth Qy: A good variety of climbing on a grit quarry which is an easy 20 mins walk from the White House. Little development since Lancs Rock.
Cross Stone Qy: No developments since last guide.
Dean Royd (SD 941 214): 16 low to middle grade climbs. Permission must be sought from the nearby Dean Royd Farm.
Gauxholme Crag: A building directly below the crag makes it unlikely that climbing will be permitted.
Hall Stones Qy: No developments since previous guide.
Leach Hill Pinnacles (SD 956 185): Half a dozen easy grade routes.
Lumbutts: No developments since previous guide. There could be access restrictions for nesting birds.
Pike Hill (SD 941 184): A recently discovered quarry which dries quickly. After much excavation by Bruce Goodwin et al, there are over 20 climbs at up to E2.
Reddyshore: There are now 49 routes here. Over the years, this quarry has been rather neglected, but the climbs are in good condition and it is worth more attention.
Salley Street Quarry (SD 943 185): Ideal spot for beginners. Must ask permission from Mrs Loud (01706 376251).
Shore Qy: This was previously a Minor Crags entry, but development by Bruce and his team has provided 21 climbs at a variety of grades in an upper and lower quarry. 5 mins walk from parking makes it an ideal evening crag for those living in Rochdale.
Summit Qy: This established quarry has been revamped with new climbs, two new buttresses below the pylon and much cleaning by Bruce’s team. A good place for an evening meet for a local club.
Turn Slack Clough (SD 927 182): A beginner’s crag.
Warland Quarry: No developments since previous guide.
Warland Reservoir Crag (SD 955 251): A pleasant new crag with 15 routes, but a long walk in (50 mins from White House)
White House Quarry (SD 968 175): Local climbers have visited this place intermittently for years, but there are now some 20 named routes within 5 mins of the White House. Good clean grit quarry.
Rossendale/Bury Area
Ashworth Moor: Previously a Minor Crags entry. Now gives a little bouldering and some short, easy, named climbs.
Deeply Vale: No recorded developments since previous guide. Some of the routes may have become overgrown, but it should be easy to restore them to give one of the best small grit quarries in our area. Good lines up prominent corners and arêtes at a variety of grades.
Doctor Dam: A small quarry with indifferent climbing. No changes from previous guide.
Harcles Hill: Three useful additions since previous guide and some bouldering in the small quarry on the left. A useful quarry for an evening visit.
Lee Quarry (SD 868 211): A new quarry near Bacup with interesting, but limited potential. The quarry is used for mountain biking and much of the rock is awful, but it is worth searching out the good rock. So far there are 5 routes and this could easily be trebled (don’t say I keep all the potential new routes to myself!).
Pinfold Quarry: Very little development since the previous guide. Some of the tops may need a bit of a clean.
Tonacliffe: No developments since the previous guide.
Troy Quarry: A few additional routes since the previous guide. Surprisingly, none of these were on the North Buttress.
Bolton Area
Anglezarke: Little development since previous guide. Some thinning of saplings needed below Coal Measure, to the left of Golden Tower and below Falkland Walls. An excellent selection of climbs.
Brownstones: As popular as ever, with some challenging bouldering additions.
Egerton Quarry: There has been a massive cleaning effort undertaken at Egerton and climbers have also taken advantage of this to produce over a hundred new climbs since the ‘Brick’. Unfortunately, interest has tended to move over to Wilton and so a few of the routes have become overgrown again and in some parts, the path round the quarry has also suffered. However, although these problems have been more limited than many climbers may think, Grooved Wall and the climbs around Ceremony urgently need a spring clean. If this is done and more climbers visit the quarry, they will be rewarded by a wide variety of climbing.
Jumbles (SD 736138): A new find with nearly 70 climbs and boulder problems.
Lester Mill Quarry: Although this quarry is little more than 100 metres away from Anglezarke, it remains relatively neglected and many visitors to Anglezarke who park directly above Lester Mill appear unaware of its existence. Certainly, the climbing is not as good as at Anglezarke, but there is some worthwhile climbing, especially in the lower grades. Increased traffic would certainly improve many of the routes, as would the removal of some saplings at the foot of the rock.
Montcliffe: A small crag, with little development since the previous guide.
Ousel’s Nest: This is a virtually forgotten quarry that contains a selection of some steep, sustained routes. Although it is easily accessed, many climbers have avoided the place either because the climbs are too hard, or because of memories of a pond at the foot of the rock which previously made access very difficult. However, the water has now gone as the pond has been dammed well to the left of the climbing. Unfortunately, ferns and brambles now provide the main obstacle. If these can be removed, and this should not require that much effort, Ousel’s will again become a place to test the hardest climbers.
Wilton One: Now owned by the BMC. Steady development since the previous guide, and some short possibilities at the far end of The Allotment. Some climbs on the Allotment and the Pitface need a clean. It would also be good to see a pipe installed near Deodand.
Wilton Two: Little recent development.
Wilton Three: A sprinkling of new climbs and a new section developed to the left of 30 Foot Wall. Plenty of variety and still a great place to learn the skills required to climb natural rock.
Wilton Four: Shooting ranges have impinged on the Right Cocktail Wall.
Blackburn Area
Billinge Hill Quarry: This small quarry is a pleasant spot for locals.
Cadshaw Small Quarry: No recent developments. Some good clean bouldering.
Cadshaw Quarries: The Main Quarry had entered a downward cycle of being neglected and routes becoming overgrown and by summer 2011 was virtually unclimbable. However, Dave and I have now completed an extensive cleaning of the Yarnsdale Delf, States Wall and Weasel Quarry, which has revealed three new routes. All the routes are now clean, but as the cleaning was done on damp winter days, it would be advisable for visitors this summer to take a stiff hand brush. The previous classic VS’s have been restored and the quarry should be ideal for summer evening visits.
Cadshaw Rocks: A traditional, small gritstone edge in Central Lancashire, though some of the climbs are getting a little polished.
Central Quarry: Despite the substantial gates at the entrance, this quarry is designated as Open Country and entry is possible round the gate. The climbing is generally better than it looks, but one visit will probably be enough.
Denham: Little recent development, though the bouldering near the pool has now been recorded in more detail, which means that the quarry offers plenty of variety. Some limited cleaning is required on the Intermediate area ledges and tops, and on some ledges on the right side of the Overhang Area. Crap Pot, a boulder problem near the pool has recently suffered fire damage and should be avoided until the rock has stabilised.
Hoghton: Still probably the best grit quarry in the North. The access situation has improved, and extends from the beginning of June to the end of August, but the peregrines often take up much of June. There has been some extensive cleaning and though there is still some work to be done, most of the routes are now in the best condition that they have been for years.
Kemp Delf: A Minor Crag near Stanhill, that will have half a dozen short named climbs.
Round Barn: Little development since the previous guide. The grotty tops on have now been virtually eliminated and the routes have all been cleaned. There is a good range of climbing, mostly up to about Hard VS, and the routes are generally solid and relatively short. This makes Round Barn an excellent place for climbers to take their first steps from Indoor Walls to real rock.
Stanworth: This once substantial quarry has now lost the climbing on South Pole Buttress, leaving only two main buttresses. Though the quarry is now somewhat limited, there are still some worthwhile climbs and recently there has also been some challenging bouldering. Currently, there is no access, but we are working on this.
Stronstrey Bank: Little recent development. Most of the climbing is in the top quarry, but there are also two other isolated buttresses. The climbing is varied, but the rock can get green, so visits are best on summer evenings, when it can be idyllic.
Withnell Quarry: Most of the climbs that were previously climbed have now been quarried away, but Brick Buttress still provides some good climbs. This is a working quarry, but climbers visiting Brick Buttress are unlikely to be disturbed, especially on Sundays.
Pendle Bowland Area
Cardwell Quarry: A small grit quarry which faces north, giving excellent views, but little sun. A small amount of development since the previous guide. Surprisingly, Cardwell was very popular as an evening crag last year.
Cold Stone Crag: A small grit outcrop with a 30 minute walk in.
Craig Y Longridge: Now owned by the BMC and a popular bouldering venue. There are also some trad climbs at the far right end, for which some lower-offs are being arranged.
Dunnow: A Minor Crag which has just three named sport routes.
Finlandia (SD 687 405): Bouldering, just over the road from Kemple End.
Kemple End (SD 688 405): A few short climbs on good quarried grit at a local beauty spot. The aspect of the climbing provides some protection from the elements. It can be surprisingly dry and sheltered even on autumn days when everything else is still wet.
Sweden (SD 643 400): A bouldering quarry hidden in woods.
Thorn Crag: A fair bit of development on the crag itself, though much of this has been in the higher grades. The bouldering at Thorn has also been extensively developed.
Trough of Bowland Quarry: A small limestone quarry. Probably a single visit crag for mid-grade climbers. There could be peregrine restrictions.
Witches Quarry: A few recent developments. A pleasant quarry, but please adhere to the access arrangements. Over the past few years we have almost lost access on more than one occasion because of some thoughtless climbers causing problems such as too may cars in the quarry or parking/turning that inconveniences the locals. Some bolt belays have been replaced and there is an ongoing programme to also replace some belay stakes.
Carnforth Area
Barrow Scout Cove: A sport crag, which also has some easier bolted routes. Please note that the cave at the far right of the crag is a designated paleolithic site and climbers have agreed not to climb or go to the right of Pincher.
Crag Foot: Very accessible crag which really catches the sun after midday. Tree felling by the RSPB has improved the crag’s outlook. A small outcrop a little nearer to Warton, known as Far Crag Foot provides two sport routes.
Cringlebarrow (SD 498 756): A new, small bouldering crag (though there are some bolt runners).
Deepdale (SD 498 749): Previously mentioned as a Minor Crags entry, this is an esoteric spot in the woods near to Cringlebarrow, but generally at easier grades. It can be pleasant given the right conditions, but its location within the woods means that it will often be damp.
Fairy Steps: Lots of short trad climbs and some interesting new bouldering. A pleasant place to spend a summer evening, but it is rather spread out, which is a two edged sword. If meeting someone there. be sure you specify the buttress where you will meet. Unfortunately, after years of unrestricted access, the new owners now wish to severely restrict the areas where we climb to 50 metres either side of the Steps through the Upper Tier (i.e. only 18% of the number of recorded climbs and none of the best or longest ones). However, many climbers have found that they have been unchallenged when climbing elsewhere.
Farleton Crag: Excellent limestone, just a pity it doesn’t extend a bit higher. There have been very few new traditional routes, but there is some impressive bouldering. In particular, boulderers should venture about 100 metres past the top end of the crag and level with the crag top, where they will find New Rose and some other problems set back a little way.
Farleton Upper Crag: A neglected crag which is probably due to the grassy appearance of some sections. However, it is worth trying out. Hawthorn Wall is very clean rock.
Farleton Quarry: A one visit limestone quarry. If you do want to climb, please ask Mr and Mrs Twinami at Marsden Farm, (015395 67699), beforehand. They are very helpful and will let you climb provided that they are not using the area themselves.
Heysham Head (SD 407 617): A small amount of bouldering and some tough trad climbs on a sandy crag in the woods to the landward side of the main historic site. Climbers must not climb on the boulder directly below the Viking Graves (even if there is no-one else there), but it is worth having a look at the graves and imagining what it was like there when they were created.
Hutton Roof: Pleasant climbing on some small limestone buttresses in a lovely location. Lots to go at, most of it at the lower grades, but there is also some good bouldering.
Jack Scout Crag: Our only sea cliff, though only part of it is tidal. There have been some limited developments since the previous guide. Please ensure that you keep to the access rules to avoid damaging the whitenbeams on the crag.
Jackdaw Quarry: An interesting little quarry behind a Dive Centre. The local youths used to jump into the flooded quarry over the climbers, which looked real hairy. The Dive Centre were going to allow climbing, but changed their minds, so perhaps some climbers should revisit and try again.
Millhead Quarry: A small quarry behind the football pitch at Millhead near Warton. Don’t go on football days, but there is a rather interesting E1.
Scout Crag: A very limited quarry just above the low road from Warton to Crag Foot.
Trowbarrow: A small amount of recent development and Red Wall and the Shelter Stone have become bouldering Meccas. Please note that a large block at the left end of the crag has recently been dropped because it was starting to move. Climbers are advised to leave this part of the wall for a couple of months for the top to settle, before climbing anything hereabouts.
Warton Main Quarry: A big limestone quarry with many pretty serious routes that will sort the men from the boys. The Terrace Wall has now been thoroughly cleaned and bolted to provide some sport climbs mainly around F6a. There are also some good new climbs to the right of the end of the Terrace. There is currently a bird ban on the quarry and this usually lasts between early March and early June, but check signs in the car park.
Warton Pinnacle Crag: A good selection, with something for most climbers. Recent clearing by the RSPB has really opened up the place.
Warton Small Quarry: This place used to stay rather damp and gloomy, but tree clearing by Bruce Waddecar and Pete Simpson has really made a huge difference. The place is now much more open and much more pleasant. Not many recent developments, but an interesting find was an unlikely looking VS between Townie and Movie Maker. Beware of car thieves who do operate in the car park and like breaking car windows. Put everything you are not taking with you into the boot.