Spring 2011 - College of Southern Idaho (CSI)

PHYA146– Intermediate Rock Climbing

Spring 2011 - College of Southern Idaho (CSI)

Instructor:Shawn Willsey, Certified Single Pitch Instructor (AMGA)

Office Phone: 732-6421

Office: Evergreen A-18

Email:

Class Meeting:Wednesday, March 16from 5:00 to 6:50pm in Evergreen A06

Class Trip: Monday, March 21 to Saturday, March 26. Travel to southwestern Utah.

REQUIREDText:Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills, Luebben, The Mountaineers Books, 2004

Optional guidebook: Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah, Goss, Sharp End Publishing, 2006

Prerequisite: Successful completion of PHYA 145 or approval of instructor. Students need to have a solid foundation of basic climbing skills such as belaying, tying in, and fundamental climbing movement.

Course Description: This course prepares the student to safely climb on their own in an unsupervised setting and builds upon the basic skills learned in PHYA 145. Course content includes safely evaluating a climb, building anchor systems, rope management, rappelling, self rescue, and improving climbing technique. The course includes at least one multi-day trip to local climbing areas. Students must furnish or rent his/her basic climbing equipment.

Welcome to intermediate rock climbing. The primary goal of this course is to enhance your basic climbing skills and provide you with the skills and techniques needed to climb safely on your own. Lead climbing will be demonstrated and discussed, but students will not participate in lead climbing in this course. Students should develop a fitness regimen that will improve their overall climbing improvement including coordination, strength, endurance, and flexibility.

Climbing is dangerous!! CSI faculty and staff will do all possible to minimize the risk associated with this course. We however cannot eliminate it. By participating in this class you are accepting substantial risk and are personally responsible for your safety and that of others. If you are unsure of your ability perform any task in this class ask before you expose yourself or others to this risk.

Course Objectives and Evaluations:

1)Outcome:Be proficient at tying basic and advanced knots used in rock climbing.
Assessment:Students will take a knot test where they must successfully demonstrate
approximately ten important knots used in climbing and explain the use of each knot.

2)Outcome:Be able to safely establish a variety of anchorsystems using natural and artificial protection.

Assessment:Students will take an anchor test where they must build a safe, equalized anchor system using a limited amount of gear. Each anchor will be inspected and evaluated by the instructor.

3)Outcome:Be able to safely descend a cliff using various methods.

Assessment:Students will practice these skills with classmates and the instructor.

4)Outcome:Learn basic rescue skills used in emergency situations.

Assessment:Students will practice these skills with classmates and the instructor.

Grading:

Attendance:200points90% to 100% = A

Knot Test: 50points80% to 89% = B

Anchor Test: 25 points70% to 79% = C

Daily Quizzes (5 @ 15 pts): 75points60% to 69% = D

TOTAL: 350points60 to 0% = F

Class Rules: Smoking, profanity, tobacco, alcohol, drugs, firearms, and fireworks are strictly prohibited at all class activities and at all times during the week-long trip.

Attendance: Attendance is a large part of your grade. You will need to be present and participate for all class activities during our week together in southwestern Utah. All students must ride in CSI vans.

Knot Test: All climbers should know how to tie and use several basic knots. Through practice and repetition, you will learn about 12 knots and their applications. Your text is a good resource for most of these knots or you can also go to the following site which shows step-by-step animations for tying these knots: At the end of the trip, you will be asked to demonstrate these knots with no hesitations or difficulties, dress and set them appropriately and explain their specific purpose. The knots you will need to know are listed below. Additional knots may be assigned.

• Figure Eight Follow Through (tie-in knot)
• Figure Eight on a Bight
• Overhand on a Bight
• A knot to tie two ropes together for rappel (several options exist)
• Stopper Knot
• Prusik Hitch
• Clove Hitch
• Munter Hitch
• Girth Hitch
• Mule Tie-Off
• Butterfly Knot
• Water Knot (aka Ring Bend)

Anchor Test: Establishing safe, sound anchors is an essential component of climbing. For this test, you and a partner will be given a limited amount of gear and asked to establishone or more solid, appropriate toprope anchor(s) using natural and/or artificial protection. The safety and integrity of each anchor system will be evaluated by the instructor. The time and date of the anchor test will be given in the field.

Quizzes: Each morning will consist of a (closed-book) quizfrom assigned chapters of the text. These quizzes will be taken prior to our climbing activity. Be sure to have a pen or pencil handy in camp to take these quizzes. No late or make-up quizzes will be given.

Required Equipment:Students will need to bring the following climbing equipment to class: climbing helmet, harness, and climbing shoes. Climbing equipment will be provided by the PE department or students may wish to purchase their own gear locally at RiverRat (735-8697). Students will need to wear comfortable, loose-fitting clothing appropriate for climbing outdoors under diverse weather conditions.A backpack to carry gear, food, and water is also required.

Recommended Equipment: Students who plan on climbing in the future may wish to invest in some or all of the following gear. If you have any of the following gear, please bring it on our trip. Be sure to mark your gear with colored electrical tape (or nail polish on hard goods).

• Two cordelette (~20 ft of 7mm nylon accessory cord)
• 4 or more locking carabiners
• 6 or more non-locking carabiners.
• Standard climbing rack (cams, wired nuts, etc.)
• Slings
• Two Prusik loops (~4 feet of 5 mm accessory cord)
• Releasable locking belay device (Gri Gri or Cinch)

Other Requirements:

1)Health History Form (return promptly to instructor): If anything on the health history changes during the course of the semester (pregnancy, medications, injuries, etc.), please notify the instructor immediately.

2)Comfortable clothing that allows freedom of movement.

3)Additional course fee of $100.00 (paid with tuition).

4) Once the course is completed,you will either be asked to complete the online course evaluation at you will be given a written evaluation during class time. Completing the evaluation will earn you five extra points.

CSI Email:Since email is the primary source of written communication with students, all registered CSI students get a college email account. Student e-mail addresses have the following format: <address>@eaglemail.csi.edu where <address> is a name selected by the student as a part of activating his/her account. Students activate their accounts and check their CSI e-mail online at Instructors and various offices send messages to these student accounts. Students must check their CSI e-mail accounts regularly to avoid missing important messages and deadlines. At the beginning of each semester free training sessions are offered to students who need help in using their accounts.

Disability Statement: Any student with a documented disability may be eligible for related accommodations. To determine eligibility and secure services, students should contact the Coordinator of Disability Services at their opportunity after registration for a class. Student Disability Services is located on the second floor of the Taylor Building on the Twin Falls campus. 208-732-6260 (voice) or 208-734-9929 (TTY) or email .

On-line Course Evaluation Statement: Students are strongly encouraged to complete evaluations at the end of the course. Evaluations are very important to assist the teaching staff to continually improve the course. Evaluations are available online at: Evaluations open up two weeks prior to the end of the course. The last day to complete an evaluation is the last day of the course. During the time the evaluations are open, students can complete the course evaluations at their convenience from any computer with Internet access, including in the open lab in the Library and in the SUB. When students log in, they should see the evaluations for the courses in which they are enrolled. Evaluations are anonymous. Filling out the evaluation should only take a few minutes. Your honest feedback is greatly appreciated!

Intermediate Rock Climbing – Spring 2011

Tentative Class Schedule

Day
Date / Topics / Activities / Text Reading / Location
Wed
3/16 / Course intro
Trip Logistics
Food Survey / Course overview
Climbing discussion
Review of climbing gear
Basic knot tying
Rope management / Syllabus / CSI gym, room 236
Mon to Sat
3/21 to 3/26 / Review of basic skills
Climbing gear
Belaying
Knots
Cleaning a route
Placing Gear
Creating Anchors
Getting down
Self rescue skills
Preparing to lead / Daily quizzes from chapters
Toprope climbing
Placing and cleaning gear
Building toprope anchors
Anchor Test
Rappelling
Knot Test / Chap 3, 4, and 6
Chap 5 and 7
Chap 1 and 2
Chap 11
Chap 14 / Various climbing locations in southwestern Utah

Southwestern Utah Trip Information

Weather: Expect mild days (~65° F) and cool evenings (~35° F) at Snow Canyon State Park. Some crags may be at lower or higher elevations and may therefore be a bit cooler or warmer. We will try to climb in the sun when we can. Rain or even snow is a possibility this time of year so be prepared.

Transportation: Students may only ride in the CSI van during the trip. CSI can only be driven by a CSI instructor (or other authorized person).

Accommodations: We will be staying in tents at Snow Canyon. The campground has restrooms and showers on site. Tents may not be co-ed unless students are married. In order to save space at the campground and in the van, tents will need to be shared. We will respect and observe all campground rules, including quiet hours from 10 pm to 7 am.

Food: We will be preparing meals together as a group in camp. We will discuss food specifics at our first meeting. You will be placed in groups and assigned meals to prepare or cleaning duty. In general, breakfast will be light, sack lunches will be taken with us into the field, and we will cook dinners as a group. You should bring any snacks you will need to supplement this.

Money: You will need to bring some money to purchase snacks and a few dinners in town or on travel days (see itinerary).

Cell Phones: Cell phone use is not allowed during the day when we are climbing. Save your texts and calls for downtime (after dinner).

Safety: The desert environment of southwestern Utah has several hazards. You must completely adhere to any safety rules provided by your instructor or park personnel. Rock faces and cliffs are no place to behave carelessly. Be sure to stay with the group and notify the instructor of where you will be. Everyone must adhere to the buddy system and never venture anywhere alone. I will not take you anywhere that I am not comfortable with, but if you are uncomfortable at any point, please let me know.

PERSONAL EQUIPMENT CHECK LIST

These are some suggested items for you to take on the trip. Place all items (except tents and sleeping bags and items to go in your climbing daypack) inside one soft duffel bag or backpack.

____ Harness, helmet, climbing shoes

____ Climbing daypack

____ Fleece Jacket

____ Rain Jacket – light weight, weather-proof, large enough to go over several layers

____ Clothing

____ T-shirts (short and long sleeved)

____ Climbing pants

____ Climbing shorts

____ Beanie or other warm hat

____ Hiking/Approach shoes or boots

____ Towel

____ in-camp shoes

____ Socks

____ Sunglasses and sunscreen

____ Climbing textbook, paper, and pencils/pens

____ Camera and film (extra batteries and memory cards)

____ Sleeping bag, sleeping pad, and pillow

____ Tent with full coverage rain fly (may be sharing this with classmates)

____ Toiletries (soap, shampoo, lotion, toothbrush, toothpaste, wash cloth, prescription medications)

____ First-aid items (Band-Aids, chap stick, Tylenol, antihistamines)

____ Water bottles (2)

____ Extra cash/credit card

____ Headlamp with new batteries

____ Insulated mug with lid

____ Silverware (fork, knife, and spoon)

____ Sack lunch and snack foods for first travel day

____ Snacks for the week

____ Camp chair

______

______

______