Some Roadside Field Notes: Tucson to the Rio Rico Resort
Note: Here are a few stray thoughts that it occurred to me to share with you. I made the drive down to the Rio Resort last week and I was struck, as I am every time I’ve ventured through Santa Cruz County, by how much I like the country down there. Since getting back to Tucson I’ve dug up a few random factoids and included a smattering of links to websites that might enliven your trips up and down I-19 as you journey to and from the Resort. I’ve suggested some side trips along the way that you might pursue if you’ve got a little extra time in transit -- or for when you need a break from the heavy duty ‘regional science’ being presented in the sessions.
–Dave Plane (January 21, 2003)
…From the airport, stay on the exit road (Tucson Boulevard) north.
You’re now currently positioned at the southern edge of the Tucson Urbanized Area. Navigation in Tucson is generally pretty straightforward – once you get yourself orientated… The ‘Old Pueblo,’ aka ‘Sunshine Factory,’ aka ‘Sunshine Capital of the World’ boasts an extensive grid system of north-south and east-west streets, a large number of which do double duty as storm-water runoff drains. Luckily you aren’t here during the summer ‘monsoon’ thunderstorm season when it becomes clear why in wealthier parts of the world below-ground storm sewers exist. Tucson’s major arterials follow the one-mile squares of the township and range system of land subdivision common throughout the western United States. And, get this, there are even some northeast/southeast roads called “Stravenues”! Hey, as someone said to my then future wife back when she was debating moving here from the San Francisco Bay Area: “Any town with major thoroughfares named ‘Speedway’ and ‘Miracle Mile’ can’t be all bad…”
In addition to the street layout, the mountains surrounding the Tucson basin provide easy directional fixes once you’re familiar with their characteristic profiles.
The high mountains directly ahead of you as you leave the airport (those to the north) are the Santa Catalinas. Highest point – not visible from this side, but rising to about 9,150 feet – is Mount Lemon. (The elevation of the City of Tucson ranges from 2,250 to 2,950 feet.) There’s a ski area up there that is putatively the southernmost in the northern hemisphere. The skiing conditions generally reflect that. My wife Kathy has a partially artificial front tooth as testimony to what southernmost skiing is like… (For today’s snow report at Mt. Lemon Ski Valley:
The Catalina Highway, originally a Depression-era public works project, provides access to the top and lots of recreational areas and hiking trails along the way. The vegetation zones you pass through are supposed to resemble what one would encounter driving from Tucson to Canada (however, most visitors this time of the year have just driven that trip in the opposite direction, and, anyway, that thought is much more fascinating during the 9 months or so of summer we experience hereabouts). More info on the Catalinas:
The Rincons are the mountains to the east (to your right); they’re connected to the Santa Catalinas by Reddington Pass. Much of the Rincon Range lies within the eastern section of Saguaro National Park. Highest point in the Rincons is called, straightforwardly enough, Rincon Peak. It is a pretty good hoof up to the top of that one… and, depending on snow conditions this time of year, perhaps not as advisable as skiing Mt. Lemon.
The Tucson Mountainss are the shorter, jagged volcanic mountains to your left (i.e., to the west). The newer of the two noncontiguous sections of Saguaro National Park (and the part that now contains the lusher cactus forest) lies to the west of town out beyond the Tucson Mountains in the Avra Valley. Also out in that neck of the woods is the famous Arizona-Sonora Desert ‘Museum’ (actually a zoological and botanical garden devoted to education about the local flora and fauna: ).
At the stoplight (gas station on your left, Burger King on your right), turn left (westbound) onto Valencia Road.
You’ll continue on Valencia through considerable, typical Tucson strip development to the entrance ramp for Interstate Highway I-19 south (towards Nogales). As you turn onto the freeway towards the south, the fourth of the mountain ranges bordering Tucson will hove into view: the Santa Ritas. These mountains are somewhat more distant than the others from the center of town (wherever that might be, since the ‘CBD’ lies on the westside of town). You’ll have the opportunity to observe the topography of the Santa Ritas in considerable detail and from a number of angles during your drive down to the resort.
Upon entering I-19 you’ll observe that this stretch of Interstate Highway is “signed in metric” – meaning that distances are given in kilometers, but that the speed limits indicated on the signs are in miles per hour (mph). (For gosh sakes, we wouldn’t want to take this NAFTA stuff too far… After all we’re the only one of the 48 contiguous states that doesn’t believe in Daylight Savings Time…)
The numbers next to my notes below refer to the kilometer markers that you’ll be able to spot along the highway as you whiz by at 75 mph. The Exits are numbered according to the closest kilometer mark.
Your direction of travel is going to be pretty much due southwards. You’ll be going uphill, and upriver, as you go “down” towards Mexico. Nogales, Arizona is at an elevation of 3,865 feet (but I think it is ‘signed’ at only 1,178 meters). Interstate 19 follows the valley of the Santa Cruz River, which here flows (as if, and when) to the north.
The Santa Cruz’s source is in Arizona, but it then goes into Mexico. The river flows back across the border at Nogales (at least after rainfalls or whenever there’s enough sewage headed towards the International Sewage Treatment Plant. … Inquire about the International Sewage Treatment Plant on the Border Economy Field Trip!). From Nogales the Santa Cruz River meanders down through the center of Santa Cruz County ranch country, southwards through downtown Tucson, and on to Marana, where its channel eventually peters out. In principle (and on some maps) the Santa Cruz connects to the Gila River and thence to the Colorado. But, in true fact, all of the river’s flow recharges the aquifers en route never escaping the Baja Arizona basins (or International Sewage Facilities) that lie along its route.
Km. 95The Interstate portion of your trip begins at the Valencia Road exit, Exit 95. From here you get a good view of the jagged Tucson Mountains lying nearby to the west (your right).
Km. 94Leaving the City of Tucson, here you enter the lands of the San Xavier Indian Reservation. This is the smaller of the two Tohono O’odham reservations. The “Big Reservation” lies to the west – stretching across the state to Organ Pipe National Monument; it includes Kit Peak Observatory and the sacred Baboquivari Peak. Tohono O’odham means “desert people.” The tribe was formerly known as the “Papagos.” Papago baskets are world-renowned. You may see the tribe’s well-known “man in the maze of life” symbol during your visit. A fairly small tribe, the Tohono O’odham people live on both sides of the current U.S./Mexico border.
Km. 93Note the flood rip-rapping along the bank of the Santa Cruz. This dates from the time of the massive October 1983 floods when both the Santa Cruz and its tributary, the Rillito, went over their banks flooding portions of Tucson and taking out most river crossings in the region. Including…
Km. 92…the predecessor to the bridge taking you now over the present course of the Santa Cruz. Channelization of the river in this section is actually a very recent event. Throughout most of the era of human settlement in this area the river had no fixed course.
The “White Dove of the Desert,” the Mission Church of San Xavier del Bac is clearly visible on the west side of the river. San Xavier ("hauv-e-air"), established 1692, is one of a string of missions founded by a Jesuit Priest, Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, throughout the State of Sonora, Mexico, and into southern Arizona. The present church, built in 1783, has been well-preserved. A recent renovation is now nearing completion. If you have the time, by all means take the few minutes needed to make a visit! This is (in my humble opinion) the most interesting man-made feature in southern Arizona.
San Xavier Mission is still the parish church for the San Xavier Reservation. Unless there is a service, you are welcome to tour the highly painted interior of the church. There’s a small museum giving the history of the mission, and why not partake of some Indian fry bread from one of the Tohono O’odham vendors on the plaza? Tasty stuff – but no wonder the Tohono O’odham have one of the highest obesity rates of any people in the world…
For more info on the San Xavier Mission:
Km. 92Exit here for San Xavier Mission.
Km. 90Note the black, volcanic rock of the mountains to your right. The black rock of the Tucson Mountains has been used for centuries as a building material in the area, including the wall around the historical part of the University of Arizona campus. The name “Tucson” (which you’ll note is spelled locally: T-U-C-S-O-N, rather than T-U-S-C-O-N, the spelling found on most incoming mail and as used in the news media…) is derived from the Pima Indian Village named Stjukshon. This means “blue water or spring at the foot of the black hill or mountain.” The actual peak the name Tucson refers to is one with the letter “A” on it several miles (oops, kilometers) north of where we are now. That mountain is known today as "A" Mountain (or, officially, Sentinel Peak). Every respectable western U.S. city must have a mountain with one or two huge letters on it. The annual whitewashing of ours is in the artistic hands of the UofA Freshmen class – but maybe they should paint “CS” instead?
Ca. Km. 84–82 Note the vegetation along this stretch. The stately saguaro cactus is something of an icon of the American West, and yet its actual range within the U.S. is very small – extending only to the edge of the Tucson basin to the west, not very many miles north of Phoenix, and not beyond the Colorado River on the western border of the state (except as planted on golf courses around Palm Springs!). Look for the smaller, stubby barrel cactus. Other common vegetation along the highway here: creosote bush and mesquite trees. A number of species of (that branchy, wickedly thorned) cholla cactus as well as “prickly pears” (opuntias) can be spotted.
Km. 80To the right, note the gigantic ore truck at the Mineral Discovery Center, the visitor’s center of the Asarco copper mine. Asarco recently announced a halt in mining here due to weak demand. When in production, smelting is not done here but rather at El Paso, Texas, where the partially processed copper is sent by train. The tour of this open-pit facility is well done and fun. More info:
To the left is the Desert Diamond Casino, a Tohono O’odham enterprise.
Km. 75From here you get a good view of Mt. Wrightson, the highest point in the Santa Ritas and highest peak in Baja Arizona at 9,452 feet. It’s a strenuous, although not especially long day hike to the top, or you can stop at Josephine Saddle or simply take the drive up Madera Canyon (one of several good birding destinations in the area.) (The exit for this trip is at Km. 63). For hiking info:
Mount Wrightson Wilderness Area website:
Km. 72A variety of cholla cactus are visible along this stretch.
Km. 69Exit for the Titan Missile Museum. From 1963 to 1986 18 functional Titan Missile sites ringed the Tucson area. Today this is the only silo and (disabled) missile that have been kept. Soviet inspectors came to town in the ‘80s to observe the ritual cutting in half of the other 17… The tour is a unique experience providing food for thought: a glimpse back at 1960s technology and cold-war preparedness. The museum and tour is run by the Pima Air and Space Museum, which also maintains a large lot of mothballed aircraft on a site adjacent to Davis-Monthan Air Force Base on the south side of Tucson. More info on missile tours:
Ca. Km. 64–56. In this stretch you’ll be passing through the heart of the retirement community of Green Valley, Arizona – actually a collection of several different retirement developments. “Get that Green Valley Grin” was one of the advertising buzzes used years back to sell these quite affordable second or retirement homes. Note the situation of the community between the tailings mounds of the copper mines on the west and the flood-irrigated pecan orchards on the east. Say. Did you know that mosquitos are attracted to the color red? Red, such as in the color of the sun when it sets over mine tailings just beyond your patio wall? Keep on grinning as you drive by…
Km. 63Green Valley Exit. Besides being the exit for the fast food restaurants staffed by all the local high school kids … this is also the turn-off to get to Madera Canyon and Mt. Wrightson to the east.
Km. 61Down towards the river to your left is putatively the largest pecan orchard in the world! (Well, at least the largest in the World found in the United States anyways…) Owned by FICO (“Farmers Investment Company”), most of the trees here were planted in the late 1960s, except for 200 acres added in the 1990s. Under the Arizona Groundwater Management Act, FICO has a grandfathered right to pump 32,600 acre-feet of groundwater annually. This is pumped from wells and delivered via cement-lined ditches or underground pipelines to laser-leveled fields. Annually, FICO uses about 28,000 to 30,000 acre-feet of water. The water politics of southern Arizona involve the mines, Indian water rights, and ag interests, but increasingly municipal users are taking the lion’s share. Central Arizona Project water is delivered from the Colorado River uphill to Phoenix and then to its terminus outside of Tucson, entering the municipal system only after being recharged and blended with ground water in the Avra Valley west of the Tucson Mountains. Green Valley and Nogales are dependent on groundwater.
Km. 56Mesquite trees and more mesquite trees…
Km. 54State of AZ Highway Rest Stop. Toilets, etc.
Km. 48Arivaca Road. The rolling trip through ranch country and grasslands to the little settlement of Arivaca is a pleasant half-day excursion. Here at the exit is the infamous Cow Palace Restaurant (can you spot the giant bullhead and horns?) It’s got your basic western American food…
For a Baja Arizona roading adventure you can make the excursion to Arivaca into a loop trip by returning via the dirt Ruby Road (named after the ghost town of Ruby). You’ll eventually (and allow lots of time for ‘eventually’) get back to the Interstate on the other side of the Rio Rico Resort down at the exit for Peña Blanca Lake. Although mostly decently graded, the Ruby Road is many miles (and even more kilometers) long. It’s a proverbial roller coaster of ups-and-downs. Wild, unpopulated scenery, but don’t, like we once did, break a fan belt back in there. You’ll find that help is not just minutes away…
Km. 48County line. You’re now leaving Pima County (Census 2000 population: 843,746; county seat: Tucson), entering Santa Cruz County (2000 population: 38,381; county seat: Nogales).
Km. 42Look over at the 9:00 o’clock position. Can you spot the Smithsonian telescopes on the somewhat lower jutting out spur of Mt. Wrightson? Don’t even ask about taking your car on the road that goes up there…
Km. 40The Tubac Golf Resort will be partially visible to your left (that is, on the eastside of the freeway). In 1789, Don Toribio de Otero of Northern Sonora, a descendent of Spanish nobility, received the first land grant from the King of Spain in an area of the Spanish frontier known as Pimeria Alta. Occupying the site of the historic Otero Ranch, the Tubac Golf Resort was begun in 1959 by a number golf professionals. The group included Bing Crosby. This small resort was the site of a U.S./Mexico Presidential Summit Meeting during, I believe, the Ford administration. (Lay: Did Gerry hit anyone in the head while he was swinging the clubs here?) More recently the critically acclaimed golf movie (if that’s not an oxymoron…) Tin Cup starring Kevin Costner was filmed at the Resort, as well as at several other spots around Tucson. A friend of ours got to be an ‘extra’ – in a scene filmed in a titty bar that unfortunately got mostly left out of the final cut…