Re: 28 Chevy Crankshaft
Posted By: Ricks - Surf CitySend E-Mail
Date: 8/22/06 10:24
In Response To: 28 Chevy Crankshaft (Gary Tillstrom)
While saving the last part, I ran across this in my files:
By Les Von Nordheim on Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 08:07 pm:
Ed Niedzielski
I am in the process of installing a 28 chev. crank in a T block. The advantage of using the chev crank vs. a model A is that the chev has the same stroke as the T and you do not need the spacer plate. Therefore, it is not obvious that any internal modifications have been made to a T with a chev crank unless the pan or lower cover is removed. In addition, the chev crank is a little easer to fit in the T block vs. the A crank. The 28 chev crank is much stronger than the T crank and have much larger journals. The chev crank requires similar modifications as does the A crank in order to fit in a T block. Most folks are now using the A crank because they are readily available, Egge has pistons that work with A rods and the A crank has 1/4" more stoke....more pulling power!
Unfortunately, Egge no-longer provides a piston using chev rods for a T (Supply and Demand). Ford 292 pistons will work using chev rods/crank set up. The chev wrist pin holes must be reamed to fit the ford 292 pistons. The main caps must also be replaced when using the chev or A crank. The same replacement bronze caps are used in either application. You might ask....why am I going to all the trouble of installing a chev crank when $1500. buys a drop in crank? I do my own machine/welding and enjoy doing my own thing. I have a drawing showing dimensions/modifications required to a chev crank if someone is interested. Also, not all chev cranks are alike.....I have a 16 chev crank that does not look much stronger than the original T crank...... the 28 chev crank is much stronger looking than the 16 crank. I do not know what year chev changed to the stronger design.
Fred Upshaw built alot of T engines using chev cranks. In doing some research. I found out that Bud (Rocky Mountin Brakes) modified/installed numerous chev cranks for Upshaw years ago. According to Bud, the cranks modified for Upshaw required the timing gear key way to be rotated 1/2 the key way width rotated clockwise (Viewed from front of crank). Good luck, "Les"
------
I have a '23 Chev crank I bought from Dan McEachern after it threw a rod. It looks like a '28 crank, but I have not compared them. By one book I saw, they changed the rods every year. The '28 rod is 2 oz heavier than the '27 rod, for example.
The nose has to be modified to look like T.
#2 & #3 mains have to be cut down to 1.6" to clear the studs.
Flywheel flange has to be cut off, and new one welded on.
Block has to be bored, of course. #1 is 1 3/8, IIRC.
Rods are 7.62", and the pin is .85", an odd number. Egge made two different pistons for the Chevy rods in a T, one for full floating pins like Model A; I dunno why. Their raw material appears to be old pots and pans and whatever. Ross makes pistons to your spec for about $100 each. When I looked into 292 pistons, I rejected them for some reason, and can't remember why. Are they made for a full floating pin?
Phil Wyatt in Hesperia has modified one crank for me, and fixed another. Somebody (maybe him) had left the bronze clutch pilot bushing in the crank, and it polluted the weld, which failed on me a few years ago. He says he did the cranks for Fred Upshaw, who was famous for Chevy cranks in T engines. My Fronty is an Upshaw job.
I should call Phil before giving out his phone #, but with trepidation. He talks and talks and talks. It's all interesting stuff: about making tiny valves for racing motocycle engines that turn a zillion rpm, etc. Last time I was up there, he went on about his Funk in a basket and the Ryan he was trying to buy.
For you, Gary, I will make the sacrifice and call him.
rdr
Top of Form
Password:Bottom of Form