Plant Propagation in the Greenhouse
Objective:
*Make as many plant propagation’s from each plant worked on, without destroying the original (mother) plant.
*Learn the basics on stem propagation, so that it could be applied to a variety of different plants. (Each plant may have a different growth pattern).
*Recognize the different potting medium used for growing plants in the greenhouse.
*Examine the use of synthetic hormones to accelerate root growth in stem cuttings.
*Pot-up the finished product of stem propagation’s, and finish the growing of the plant so that it can be sold in the annual sale.
INSTRUCTIONS:***You will be choosing a plant from several types found in the greenhouse. It will be named for you and likely will not have a nametag on it; so write the name down right away. Using two plant labels write your name (first and last), and your hour on one side in pencil. On the other side write the name of your plant in pencil. Do not forget the name of this plant, and do not forget the location in which the plant was found. At the end of each hour you must return the plant to that location.
YOU MUST ALWAYS RETURN PLANTS TO THEIR ORIGINAL LOCATION UNLESS OTHERWISE INSTRUCTED!
1. You need to obtain 1 green soaker tray (no holes in the bottom) and 1 insert tray (with holes in the bottom). Place the insert tray in the soaker tray.
2. Fill up your insert tray with pearlite to the top edge.
3. Water your pearlite with the hose, with enough water to completely soak all the pearlite.
4. Next obtain a pair of cutting scissors from the bench. There is one pair for each slot, so at the end of each hour each slot should be full. You should also share a small jar of rooting hormone between two people.
RETURN ALL SCISSORS AND HORMONE AT THE END OF EACH HOUR! WE WILL NOT LEAVE UNTIL ALL COMPOST BUCKETS ARE EMPTIED AND SCISSORS AND HORMONES PUT AWAY.
5. Your cutting MUST be at least 4 -5 inches long. If it is any shorter it will take much longer to root. There should also be several leaves above the nodes so that the plant can continue photosynthesis. Nodes are the locations on the stems where the leaves start their growth.
6. Make a diagonal cut right above a leaf node.
7. Gently dip your cutting into the root hormone and tap the side to get off any excess. (You don’t want your cutting to look like Arnold!)
8. Put your cutting in the tray of wet pearlite. Try to get as many of the same kind of plant as possible in the same propagation tray. Approximately one hundred small types of cuttings will fit per tray and fifty cuttings per tray in some of the larger types of plants. Trays should be placed with all other trays for that hour. Empty your compost bucket in the south compost pile, return your tools, and return any other items used.
In many cases one whole plant stem should make up to five stem propagation’s. There should be at least one leaf or bud left on the original plant (closest to the ground). DO NOT DAMAGE THE ROOTS OF THE MOTHER PLANT! The mother plant will generate new foliage and cuttings can be made again. Generally there should be two nodes with leaves removed and a lightly dusted with rooting hormone.
Plant Primping
1. Read all of the steps before you begin, and complete all steps to a plant before you begin on a second plant. DO NOT LEAVE A PLANT UNFINISHED!
2. Remove all dead and dying leaves, stems, flowers, and dried seeds. Make sure these waste products go into a compost bucket.
3. Remove all weeds (even tiny ones). Do this by grasping the weed as near to the soil as possible with your thumb and forefingers. Gently pull straight up. Make sure the roots are also removed or you have defeated the purpose of weeding. Oxalis is the most common greenhouse weed (looks like clover).
4. Trim or shape the plant with pruners if needed. Return the pruners to the correct location when you are finished with them. Any live stem pieces should be propagating by following the section titled “Plant Propagation“.
5. Check the pot for cracks or breaks. If the plant needs a larger pot, or the old one needs replacing refer to “Potting and Repotting“.
6. Add soil to the top of the pot or remove the plant carefully and place soil in the pot bottom. Put the plant back in the pot and add soil to the sides. Continue adding soil until the level reaches less than ½ inch from the top rim of the pot.
7. Make sure the tag remains in the plant. If you divide the plant (referring to the section on repotting) make sure that there are tags for the new plants.
8. Water the plant using the garden-hose. After watering the plant, place it with others of its kind (this should be where you found it). If you are having complications finding the correct location ask the instructor or greenhouse director.
9. Empty the compost bucket before you leave for the day, and return all tools to their proper location. We empty compost daily because the outside temperatures and the action of the compost pile kills most diseases including insects that may crawly out of the bucket and onto a healthy plant.
Potting and Repotting
1. Read all of the steps before you begin, and complete all steps to a plant before you begin a second one. DO NOT LEAVE A PLANT UNFINISHED!
2. Carefully remove the plant from the pot of tray. Do not destroy the old pot. To remove the plant without damaging it or the pot, place your hand over the soil, bracing the plant with your fingers. Slowly turn the plant over making sure that the soil doesn’t spill everywhere (remember you should always work over a tray or soil tub). If the plant is firmly in place gently tap the bottom of the pot until you feel it loosen. If, after tapping, the plant is still intact. Try squeezing the sides of the pot (if plastic) or using a butter knife to slide around the inside edge. If the plant is in a cutting tray, gently shake most of the rooting medium (pearlite) off the roots and back into the tray.
3. Remove all dead and dying leaves. Remove all weeds; make sure to get the roots. All plant matter waste goes into a composting bucket.
4. Remove 1/3 of the soil from the outside surface of the whole soil ball. If the plant needs to be divided skip to step number five if not continue on to step number six. You should only divide a plant if instructed to do so.
5. The plant needs to be divided if it is producing new plant growth(s) at the base of the plant, remove most, if not all, of the soil first. Gently grip the new growing plant near the soil or point of attachment to the mother plant. Pry the plant away from the mother plant. Be careful so that you have roots on the new plant and the mother plant. It may be necessary to use pruners to cut tangled roots. Make sure you make tags for the new plant and water them. Continue on with step six.
6. Select a new pot that is 1 (one) inch larger than the old one, unless told otherwise by the instructor or greenhouse director.
7. Make sure there is still a tag in the plant and inform the instructor if there is not. If you can make a tag with the correct name, then do so.
8. Water the plant and put it with others of its kind (this should be where you get it from). If you are having complications placing the plant, consult your instructor or greenhouse director
9. Put the old pot in the place where this type of pot is kept after you remove the soil, and clean it.
10. Empty you compost bucket before you leave for the day, and return all tools to their proper location. We empty compost daily because the outside temperatures and the action of the compost pile kills most diseases including insects that may crawl out of the bucket and onto a healthy plant.
Soil: Food for the Plants
One of the key factors in the greenhouse is the ability to make soil. We at Shawnee Mission Northwest have the ability to make our own. The process is very simple.
1. First drag a large tub under the soil mixer and have the soil sifter handy.
2. Locate the large gray barrels containing the following soil elements:
(#1 bucket) Pearlite: a white large grain similar to dry cottage cheese
(#1bucket) Peat moss: a brown soil-like substance having the appearance of shredded wood
Top Soil: (1) 40 pound bag.
(#1 bucket) Vermiculite: a silver, gold flaky materials with trace elements
(#1 bucket) Compost. (if available)
These five elements are what we use to make soil.
3. In the soil making center you will find a 3-5 gallon bucket with the soil “recipe” on it. It reads as follows:
1-bucket pearlite
1-buckets peat moss
1-bag of top soil
1-bucket vermiculite
1-bag of compost
4. CAUTION: CEMENT MIXER CAN AND WILL REMOVE LIMBS, HAIR, AND TIES AND ANYTHING ELSE THAT CAN FIT INTO THE GEARS. USE WITH CAUTION!
5. Make sure the cement mixer is up at a 45-degree angle. Add all of the ingredients and then turn the machine on.
6. Slowly mix the ingredients until everything is mixed consistently.
7. After the soil is well mixed. Move the large soil tub underneath the mixer and set the sifter on top of the soil tub.
8. Using the wheel on the right of the machine, slowly crank towards the tub. The machine will dispense the soil onto the sifter. Two people on either side will grate the soil through the sifter with a block of wood.
9. Put the newly mixed soil into a large empty gray barrel.
10. Fifteen minutes before the end of the hour your group should start cleaning up. The finished barrels should have lids on them, all empty bags thrown away, area swept up and all ingredients should be filled if empty.