Oregon Pinot Noir Update

Oregon Pinot Noir Update

ByJosh Raynolds

The 2011 harvest was the latest ever recorded in the Willamette Valley for most growers, in many cases extending into the first week of November. In theory, grapes picked well into the fall can achieve true ripeness, fleshiness and dramatic complexity. But for that to happen the vines must enjoy at least a reasonably normal growing season before getting to that point, and in 2011 this simply was not the case.
Two thousand eleven got off to an auspicious start with a large crop set, but then things went south quickly. The weather stayed cool to cold through the summer and sugar levels crept upward at a frighteningly slow pace. Experienced growers here learned long ago not to panic over projections for rain in September but this year no one had any choice but to sit and wait for their fruit to ripen. The weather finally turned clear and warm in early October, which kick-started the fruit, and harvesting began in most cases around the 15th. Happily, conditions were glorious for the next three weeks.
While the IWC is loath to jump on the vintage-chart bandwagon, I can't recall another growing season that was described as "the most stressful ever" by every single grower and producer with whom I've talked or traded e-mail.
So I won't fault anybody for generalizing that 2011 was a sub-par year, perhaps the weakest overall in the last decade. But as with all things wine, it just isn't that simple. Many of the 2011s I tried are lovely, precise, low-octane wines that will appeal to wine lovers who are turned off by what some call the grenache style of pinot noir: inky color, high alcohol, dark fruit character and general heaviness. Of course, there are an awful lot of tart--even screechy--wines out there so smart consumers will tread carefully through this vintage. But as was the case in 2005 and 2007, 2011 will provide plenty of extremely pleasant surprises.
The problem with vintage charts is that they simply cannot convey the complexities of a great or difficult growing season or harvest and also take into account the triumphs and failures experienced by individual producers. They also can't adequately address the complexity and sheer expanse of a region like the Willamette Valley: just because things were dodgy up in the Dundee Hills, were conditions exactly the same down in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA? Even more complicated and impossible to convey with a handy vintage chart is the fact that it's perfectly possible for a grower or winemaker to botch things up after a great season while his neighbors knock it out of the park. The converse is also true: a producer can nail it after a difficult growing season. That's pretty uncommon but it happens, and it happened in 2011 in the Willamette Valley. Great producers, like great vineyards, distinguish themselves by their ability consistently to produce good, even great, wines under arduous vintage situations, and 2011 was just the year to prove or disprove this theory.
Most wineries' high-end 2010s have been released since last year's report and the best wines are among the finest I've tasted from the Willamette Valley in over a decade. This was another cool year but the wines, in general, have more sweetness and power than all but the cream of the 2011 crop. I've also had the chance to revisit quite a few 2009s over the last 12 months, and these wines continue to stand in sharp contrast to the '10s, and, naturally, the '11s. Broader, deeper and more masculine, most 2009s will be prized by fans of brawny, deeply fruity pinots, but there's plenty of elegance to the top wines as well.

2010 ArterberryMaresh Pinot Noir Loie'sMaresh Vineyard Dundee Hills

($75) Light, bright, slightly hazy red. Vibrant, high-pitched aromas of red berry preserves, rose oil, Asian spices, orange zest and white pepper. Tangy acidity gives a bracing quality and excellent lift to concentrated, sharply focused raspberry, cherry and spicecake flavors. Stains the palate but betrays no excess weight or easy sweetness. Shows an impressive marriage of power and vivacity, with strong finishing punch, silky tannins and penetrating minerality. This wine's clarity and balance are superb. 94

2010 Cristom Vineyards Pinot Noir Eileen Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills

($50) Vivid ruby-red. An exotic perfume of red fruit preserves, blood orange and candied flowers, along with an Asian spice nuance that strengthens with air. Shows very good clarity and intensity on the palate, offering gently sweet black raspberry and rose pastille flavors and a zesty kick of cinnamon. Spicy and precise on the strikingly persistent finish, which features silky tannins and lingering floral notes. 94

Priced from: 44.99

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2010 Thomas Pinot Noir Dundee Hills

($50) Vivid ruby. Pungent earth- and spice-accented black raspberry and cherry-cola aromas are lifted by a suave floral quality that gains strength with air. Deeply pitched, energetic dark fruit flavors take a brighter turn with air and pick up spicecake and anise nuances, along with a hint of smokiness. Chewy and penetrating on the strikingly persistent finish, which features supple tannins, lingering spiciness an a touch of smokiness. 94

2009 Soter Vineyards Pinot Noir Mineral Springs Ranch Yamhill Carlton District

($85) (made with 30% whole clusters and 40% new oak): Vivid ruby-red. Powerfully scented aromas of candied red fruits, cola, incense and Asian spices, with a bright mineral overtone. Stains the palate with sappy black raspberry and cherry-cola flavors that are lifted and braced by a zesty mineral quality. Closes sweet, spicy and very long, with silky tannins that fade into the wine's dense fruit. Pretty seductive right now but I wouldn't consider broaching this pinot for at least another five years. 94

Priced from: 41.95

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2009 De Ponte Cellars Pinot Noir Shirley's Gran Reserva Dundee Hills

($100) Bright ruby-red. Heady, floral- and spice-accented aromas of black raspberry and cherry-cola, with a note of licorice adding depth. Sappy, penetrating red fruit preserve and rose pastille flavors show an alluring sweetness and gain weight as well as energy with air. Sweet and lively on a subtly tannic finish of power and elegance. This wine was aged for two years in new French oak. 93

2011 Patricia Green Cellars Pinot Noir Notorious Yamhill County

($75) (100% new oak): Vivid ruby-red. Powerful, oak-spiced aromas of cherry, dark berry preserves, cola and smoky Indian spices. Sweet and velvety on the palate, offering suave black raspberry and cherry compote flavors and an invigorating jolt of allspice on the back half. Packs a serious punch but comes off energetic and precise. Finishes with excellent clarity and persistence. Just 12.5% alcohol here, by the way. 93

2010 ArterberryMaresh Pinot Noir Weber Vineyard Dundee Hills

($58) Light, bright red. High-pitched, mineral- and floral-accented red fruits on the nose, with a licorice nuance adding depth. Spicy, focused and pure, offering intense raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a refreshing kick of blood orange. Distinctly energetic and incisive on the focused, tenacious finish. 93

2011 Antica Terra Pinot Noir Botanica Willamette Valley

($75) Vivid ruby-red. A heady, complex bouquet evokes black raspberry, cherry-cola, Asian spices and dried rose. Sweet and penetrating, with impressively pure red and dark berry flavors lifted by zesty acidity and a hint of allspice. Intensely flavored but surprisingly elegant, with strong finishing punch and smooth, even tannins adding shape. This sexy pinot has great upfront appeal, especially for fruit freak, but I'd be stashing mine away for a few more years, at a minimum. 93

Priced from: 79.95

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2010 Kelley Fox Wines Pinot Noir Momtazi Vineyard McMinnville

($40) Vibrant red. Pungent, floral- and spice-accented aromas of wild berries and incense, with a zesty mineral quality adding lift. Sappy, focused and pure, offering sweet black raspberry and cherry-cola flavors and a touch of Indian spices. The floral and smoke notes come back strong on the finish, which clings with excellent tenacity and appealing sweetness. 93

2010 Kelley Fox Wines Pinot Noir Maresh Vineyard Dundee Hills

($60) Brilliant red. Musky aromas of raspberry, cherry, smoky minerals and cured meat, with a strong floral overtone. Sweet and fine-grained, with surprising depth to its vibrant flavors of red berry preserve, rose and anise. Packs a serious punch but comes off lithe. Finishes tangy, smoky and extremely long, with silky tannins adding shape. 93

2010 Amalie Robert Estate Pinot Noir Wadenswil Clone Willamette Valley

($50) Bright red. High-pitched cherry and Asian spice aromas are deepened by notes of sassafras, woodsmoke and cola. Stains the palate with sappy red and dark berry flavors and tangy acidity adding lift and cut. An exotic floral nuance emerges with air and carries through a long, sweet and persistent finish. While this energetic pinot is built to age, it has a lot of immediate appeal. 93

2010 Le Cadeau Vineyard Pinot Noir Merci Willamette Valley

($80) Vivid ruby. Intense red fruit preserve, blood orange and incense aromas are complemented by deeper-pitched notes of cola and fruitcake. Packs a serious punch but comes off as surprisingly vivacious, offering sweet black raspberry and cola flavors and a touch of rose pastille. Finishes with excellent clarity and length and fine-grained tannins. This pinot should age slowly and gracefully. 93

2010 Stoller Vineyards Pinot Noir Cathy's Reserve Dundee Hills

($100) Bright ruby-red. Sexy, expansive aromas of red fruit liqueur, incense, rose pastille and vanilla, with a smoky overtone. Fleshy and seamless, offering sweet black raspberry and cherry-cola flavors sharpened by notes of white pepper and orange pith. The vanilla quality comes back on the sweet, focused, youthfully tannic finish. The wine's 100% new oak is playing very nicely with its plush fruit. 93

2010 Tendril Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Tightrope Willamette Valley

($64) (a 50/50 blend of fruit grown in the Mt. Richmond and Saffron Fields vineyards, which are both in the Yamhill-Carlton subzone; 19 months in oak, 75% new): Bright ruby-red. Dark berry liqueur, cola and licorice on the nose, with vanilla and woodsmoke elements building in the glass. Supple and expansive, offering sweet black raspberry and cherry-cola flavors accented by candied flowers and spicecake. Finishes with impressive power and length, leaving suave rose pastille and allspice notes behind. 93

2007 J Christopher & Dr Loosen Pinot Noir Appassionata Willamette Valley

($75) Bright red. A highly perfumed bouquet displays fresh strawberry, potpourri, vanilla and smoky herbs. Spicy red and dark berry flavors show excellent focus and gain energy in the glass. Blood orange and spicecake flavors build with air and carry through a long, sappy and penetrating finish that betrays just a hint of tannins. Fully mature and utterly delicious but has the balance to age further. 93

2010 Matello Winery Pinot Noir Souris Willamette Valley

($45) Vivid red. Heady, seductively perfumed bouquet melds candied red fruits, Asian spices, black tea and cola. Powerful yet lithe, offering sweet black raspberry and spicecake flavors that put on weight with air. Shows excellent clarity on the finish, which features gently chewy tannins and a late jolt of candied rose. By all means decant this one if you insist on drinking it now or anytime soon. 93

2010 BiggioHamina Cellars Pinot Noir Caroline Zenith Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills

($75) Brilliant red. Fresh red berries and candied flowers on the intensely perfumed, spice-accented nose. Silky and sweet on the palate, offering intense black raspberry, bitter cherry and spicecake flavors that put on weight with air. Shows impressive energy and lift on the finish, with its velvety tannins and lingering florality. This highly complex, compelling wine was made entirely with whole clusters. 93

2010 Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Noir Avellana Willamette Valley

($100) Vivid ruby-red. Powerful, expansive dark berry preserve, Indian spice and floral pastille scents are given urgency by notes of white pepper and smoky minerals. Plush, deeply pitched black raspberry and cherry-cola flavors show excellent clarity and power but come off surprisingly graceful. The spice and cola notes repeat on the finish, which clings with superb tenacity and slow-building tannins. 93

2010 Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Noir Aurora Vineyard Willamette Valley

($100) Bright ruby-red. Heady aromas of candied cherry, sassafras, potpourri and smoky Indian spices. Fleshy and broad on entry, then tighter in the mid-palate, offering vibrant red and dark berry flavors and suggestions of cola, allspice and floral pastilles. Becomes sweeter with air and finishes with superb clarity, energy and spicy persistence. Very sexy now but this impressively dense and balanced wine is built to age. 93

2010 Coeur de Terre Pinot Noir Renelle's Block Reserve Willamette Valley

($60) Bright ruby-red. Explosive aromas of cherry-cola, incense, rose oil and woodsmoke, with a bright, spicy overtone. Stains the palate with energetic cherry and dark berry flavors that show excellent clarity and spicy lift. Finishes sweet and impressively long, with lingering spicecake and floral pastille qualities and smooth, well-knit tannins. 93

2011 Beaux Freres Vineyard & Winery Pinot Noir The Beaux Freres Vineyard Ribbon Ridge

($80) Vivid ruby. Heady, assertively perfumed bouquet evokes blackberry and cherry preserves, with notes of vanilla, cola and sandalwood emerging with air. Juicy, penetrating and lively on the palate, offering sweet dark fruit and orange zest flavors along with hints of cola and spicecake. Finishes smoky and sweet, with slow-building tannins and a suave floral pastille quality. 93

2010 Chehalem Pinot Noir Reserve Ridgecrest Vineyards Ribbon Ridge

($60) Vivid ruby-red. A heady, complex bouquet displays scents of red fruit liqueur, blood orange, potpourri, vanilla and mocha, with a bright mineral overtone. Palate-staining but energetic, offering an array of red berry and floral pastille flavors and a zesty Asian spice nuance. Sweet and precise on the finish, which leaves intense raspberry and star anise notes behind. This sexy pinot should age slowly and positively over at least the next decade. 93

2010 Belle Pente Pinot Noir Estate Reserve Yamhill-Carlton District

($48) Bright ruby-red. A highly complex bouquet displays sexy red berry preserve, incense and candied rose scents, along with suggestions of cola, mocha and allspice. Sappy, deeply concentrated cherry and raspberry flavors are lifted and braced by juicy acidity and show excellent clarity and thrust. Closes with palate-staining intensity and sweetness, leaving suave floral and Asian spice notes behind. Impressively balanced and fine-grained, with serious cellaring potential. 93

2010 Belle Pente Pinot Noir Murto Vineyard Dundee Hills

($38) Bright ruby-red. Heady, exotically perfumed aromas of cherry-cola, raspberry liqueur, star anise and freshly turned earth, along with notes of incense and smoky herbs. Stains the palate with intense red fruit flavors that gain weight and sweetness with air. Manages to be powerful as well as energetic, finishing with outstanding focus and gently tannic persistence. 93

Priced from: 47

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2010 The Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Noir Original Vines Reserve Dundee Hills

($60) Bright red. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet displays scents of candied red fruits, rose, incense and smoky minerals. Spicy and penetrating, offering vibrant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a touch of allspice. Starts off racy but gains sweetness and flesh with air and finishes with excellent clarity and slow-building, silky tannins. I'd bet on this wine aging well on its balance. 93

2008 Adelsheim Pinot Noir Vintage 31 Willamette Valley

($180) Vivid red. Heady, smoke- and spice-accented red fruit and floral pastille aromas have impressive clarity and vivacity. Deeper cherry and blackberry qualities on the palate, which shows a silken texture and strong back-end lift. Closes smooth and very long, with superb focus and sweet tannins adding grip. This wine was made from what the Adelsheim team thought were the four best barrels of the vintage. The fruit was sourced from Bryan Creek Vineyard (60%), Calkins Lane Vineyard (35%) and Winderlea Vineyard (5%); the wine saw one-third new oak and was bottled in August, 2009. The next time this bottling will appear will be from the 2012 vintage, which will likely be released in 2017. 93