Most Mechanics Work for Car Dealers, Automobile Repair Shops, Or Gasoline Service Stations

MOST MECHANICS WORK FOR CAR DEALERS, AUTOMOBILE REPAIR SHOPS, OR GASOLINE SERVICE STATIONS. MOST SHOPS HAVE 1-5 MECHANICS.

MECHANICS USUALLY LEARN THEIR TRADE ON THE JOB. BEGINNERS START AS HELPERS AND GAIN SKILL BY WORKING WITH EXPERIENCED MECHANICS. ANOTHER WAY TO BECOME A MECHANIC IS THROUGH A VOCATIONAL TRAINING PROGRAM. THIS LASTS 2 YEARS AND INCLUDES CLASSROOM TRAINING ALONG WITH ON-THE-JOB EXPERIENCE.

EMPLOYERS LOOK FOR PEOPLE WHO LIKE TO WORK WITH MACHINES AND HAVE KNOWLEDGE ABOUT CARS. COMPLETION OF HIGH SCHOOL IS HELPFUL.

ABOUT 1 OUT OF 7 MECHANICS WORK FOR THEMSELVES. THEY OWN THEIR OWN TOOLS AND MANAGE REPAIR SHOPS OR GAS STATIONS.

SKILLED MECHANICS EARN AN AVERAGE OF ABOUT $33,248 PER YEAR. HELPERS AND TRAINEES EARN ABOUT HALF THIS MUCH. SOME MECHANICS ARE MEMBERS OF LABOR UNIONS. THE EMPLOYMENT OUTLOOK INTO THE NEXT DECADE IS EXCELLENT.

MECHANICS OFTEN WORK WITH DIRTY AND GREASY PARTS. THEY WORK IN AWKWARD POSITIONS. MANY OF THE CAR PARTS AND TOOLS THAT THEY MUST LIFT ARE HEAVY. MINOR CUTS AND BRUISES ARE COMMON, BUT SERIOUS ACCIDENTS ARE AVOIDED BY KEEPING THE WORK AREA NEAT AND CLEAN, AND BY OBEYING SAFETY RULES.

ANYONE WHOSE CAR HAS BROKEN DOWN KNOWS HOW IMPORTANT THE AUTOMOBILE MECHANIC’S JOB IS. THE ABILITY TO QUICKLY FIND OUT WHAT’S WRONG AND THEN FIX IT IS WHAT MAKES A GOOD MECHANIC.

IN ADDITION TO REPLACING BRAKE PADS AS YOU WILL DO, BRAKE MECHANICS INSPECT AND REPAIR OR REPLACE THE OTHER PARTS OF THE BRAKE SYSTEM SUCH AS CYLINDERS AND HYDRAULIC LINES. SOMETIMES THEY RESURFACE ROTORS AND DRUMS USING MACHINE TOOLS. BRAKE MECHANICS MAY DO GENERAL MECHANIC WORK AS WELL AS SERVICING RIDE SYSTEM PARTS LIKE SHOCK ABSORBERS, STEERING CONNECTORS, AND WHEEL ALIGNMENT.

NOW THAT YOU HAVE BEEN PRESENTED A FEW FACTS ABOUT A CAREER AS AN AUTO SERVICE MECHANIC, TAKE THE INTEREST CHECKSHEET AND ANSWER QUESTION #1.

DO YOU THINK THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO BE AN AUTO SERVICE MECHANIC? CHECK NO, MAYBE, OR YES.

STOP THE TAPE, CHECK YOUR ANSWER AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #1)

AT THIS JOB YOU WILL USE SOME OF THE SAME TOOLS AS A BRAKE MECHANIC TO CHANGE A STANDARD DISC BRAKE FROM A REAL AUTOMOBILE. YOU WILL DO THE FOLLOWING THINGS:

A)CHECK BRAKE FLUID IN THE MASTER CYLINDER

B)LOOSEN AND REMOVE LUG NUTS AND REMOVE CAR WHEEL

C)REMOVE MOUNTING BOLTS AND LIFT DISC BRAKE CALIPER OFF BRAKE ROTOR

D)REMOVE “OLD” BRAKE PADS

E)INSPECT CALIPER BOOT, BRAKE PADS, AND ROTOR

F)INSTALL “NEW” BRAKE PADS AND REASSEMBLE BRAKE

G)REPLACE WHEEL AND LUG NUTS

H)TEST BRAKE OPERATION AND CHECK MASTER CYLINDER FLUID LEVEL AND BRAKE LINERS

BEFORE WORKINGON THE DISC BRAKE, YOU’LL HAVE TO CHECK YOUR TOOLS.

FIND THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND MATERIALS AT YOUR WORK STATION:

A)BALL PEEN HAMMER

B)LUG WRENCH

C)C-CLAMP

D)ALLEN WRENCH

E)REPLACEMENT BRAKE PADS

F)BRAKE PEDAL SAFETY PIN (INSERTED AT BASE OF BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY)

THE PAD SETS ARE NUMBERED “1” AND “2”. ONE SET IS INSTALLED IN THE BRAKE; THE OTHER SET IS HANGING ON THE CARREL TOOL PANEL. IF YOU CAN’T FIND ANY OF THE TOOLS OR MATERIALS, CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

STOP THE TAPE AND LOCATE YOUR TOOLS AND MATERIALS.

(OBSERVATION POINT #2)

THE LUG WRENCH

THE FIRST TOOL YOU WILL USE IS THE LUG WRENCH. THIS IS A COMBINATION TOOL USED TO REMOVE CAR WHEELS.

THE HEAD OF THE LUG WRENCH FITS OVER THE LUG NUTS AND IS USED TO LOOSEN THEM. THE LUG NUTS HOLD THE WHEEL ON THE AXLE.

LOOSENING THE LUG NUTS

GET THE LUG WRENCH. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THIS HEAVY TOOL.

PLACE THE HEAD OF THE LUG WRENCH OVER A LUG NUT.

TURN THE WRENCH COUNTER-CLOCKWISE ONE TURN TO LOOSEN THE NUT.

LOOSEN ALL THE NUTS ONE TURN.

IF THE WHEEL BEGINS TO TURN WHILE YOU ARE LOOSENING THE LUG NUTS CALL YOUR EVALUATOR TO PUSH ON THE BRAKE PEDAL.

STOP THE TAPE AND LOOSEN THE FIVE LUG NUTS.

NOW TURN THE LUG NUTS UNTIL THEY COME ALL THE WAY OFF. YOU MAY BE ABLE TO TURN THE NUTS WITH YOUR FINGERS. IF THEY ARE TOO TIGHT TO TURN WITH YOUR FINGERS, FINISH TAKING THE NUTS OFF WITH THE LUG WRENCH.

STOP THE TAPE AND REMOVE THE FIVE LUG NUTS.

PLACE THE LUG WRENCH BACK IN ITS PLACE ON THE TOOL PANEL.

CAREFULLY REMOVE THE WHEEL RIM AND LAY IT FLAT ON THE FLOOR NEXT TO YOUR WORK STATION.

PLACE THE FIVE NUTS IN THE WHEEL.

STOP THE TAPE. REMOVE THE WHEEL AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #3)

THIS IS A PICTURE OF THE DISC BRAKE ASSEMBLY. MOST MODERN CARS USE THIS TYPE OF BRAKE ON THE FRONT WHEELS AND DRUM BRAKES ON THE REAR WHEELS. SPORTS CARS SOMETIMES HAVE DISC BRAKES ON ALL FOUR WHEELS.

LOOK AT THE DISC BRAKE ASSEMBLY ON THE TABLETOP AND FIND THE PARTS SHOWN IN THE PICTURES. NOTE: YOUR MASTER CYLINDER IS ROUND.

STOP THE TAPE, FIND THE PARTS, AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #4)

GET THE C-CLAMP.

PUT THE C-CLAMP ON THE CALIPER AS SHOWN. THE SCREW FACE OF THE CLAMP SHOULD BE AGAINST THE METAL PART OF THE BRAKE PAD CLOSEST TO YOU. THE CLAMP FACE SHOULD BE AGAINST THE BACK OF THE CALIPER.

TIGHTEN THE C-CLAMP BY TURNING THE HANDLE CLOCKWISE. TIGHTEN THE C-CLAMP UNTIL THE CALIPER MOVES OUT AWAY FROM THE BACK OF THE ROTOR.

LOOSEN THE C-CLAMP BY TURNING THE HANDLE COUNTER CLOCKWISE.

TAKE THE C-CLAMP OFF THE CALIPER. PUT THE CLAMP BACK IN ITS PLACE ON THE TOOL PANEL.

STOP THE TAPE AND REPLACE THE C-CLAMP.

GET THE ALLEN WRENCH. ALLEN WRENCHES ARE FOR HEADLESS SET SCREWS THAT DON’T STICK ABOVE THE AREA OF THE PART THEY ARE HOLDING

BE CAREFUL TO HOLD THE WRENCH SO THAT IF IT SLIPS, YOUR HANDS WON’T BE SCRAPED OR BRUISED.

PUT THE ALLEN WRENCH INTO THE HEAD OF A MOUNTING BOLT AS SHOWN IN THE PICTURE.

TURN THE WRENCH CLOCKWISE UNTIL THE BOUNTING BOLT COMES ALL THE WAY OUT. SET THE MOUNTING BOLT ON THE TABLETOP.

STOP THE TAPE AND TAKE OUT THE MOUNTING BOLT.

NOW REMOVE THE OTHER MOUNTING BOLT AND PUT THE ALLEN WRENCH BACK IN ITS PLACE ON THE TOOL PANEL.

STOP THE TAPE. TAKE OUT THE SECOND MOUNTING BOLT AND RETURN THE ALLEN WRENCH.

CHECK TO BE SURE THE BRAKE PEDAL SAFETY PIN IS IN PLACE. THE BRAKE PEDAL MUST NOT BE PUSHED WHILE THE CALIPER IS OFF THE ROTOR. A BRAKE MECHANIC WILL ALWAYS BE CAREFUL NOT TO DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL WHILE WORKING ON BRAKES. THIS SAFETY PIN PREVENTS YOU FROM ACCIDENTLY PUSHING ON THE BRAKE PEDAL.

LIFT THE CALIPER UP AND OFF THE ROTOR AS SHOWN IN THE PICTURE.

CAREFULLY PLACE THE CALIPER UPSIDE DOWN ON THE TABLETOP. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE HYDRAULIC FLUID BRAKE LINE. PULLING, TWISTING, OR KINKING IT WILL CAUSE SERIOUS DAMAGE.

STOP THE TAPE REMOVE THE CALIPER.

CAREFULLY REMOVE THE INBOARD BRAKE PAD AS SHOWIN THE PHOTO.

SET IT ASIDE ON THE TABLETOP. GET THE BALL PEEN HAMMER. USE THE BALL PEEN HAMMER TO TAP THE OUTBOARD BRAKE PAD LOOSE. SET THE PAD NEATLY ON THE TABLETOP WITH THE OTHER ONE.

PUT THE BALL PEEN HAMMER BACK IN ITS PLACE ON THE TOOL PANEL.

A GOOD MECHANIC KEEPS THE WORK AREA CLEAN AND WELL ORGANIZED. THE PARTS SHOULD BE ARRANGED ON THE TABLETOP IN THE ORDER THAT THEY WERE REMOVED. THIS WILL HELP YOU REMEMBER HOW THEY GO WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE THE PARTS. GOOD MECHANICS KEEP THEIR TOOLS CLEAN AND OUT OF THE WAY OF THEIR WORK.

STOP THE TAPE, REMOVE THE BRAKE PADS AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #5)

INSPECTION IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT JOBS OF THE BRAKE MECHANIC. WITH REGULAR INSPECTIONS OF THE BRAKES AND OTHER AUTOMOBILE SYSTEMS, POTENTIAL PROBLEMS ARE FOUND AND CAN BE FIXED BEFORE THEY CAUSE ACCIDENTS AND DEATH ON THE ROAD.

GET A BRAKE PAD. LOOK AT THE SURFACE OF THE PAD THAT RUBS AGAINST THE ROTOR. THIS SURFACE SHOULD BE SMOOTH AND FREE OF GROOVES AND SCRATCHES.

THE LINING OF THE PAD SHOULD ALSO BE AT LEAST 1/8 INCH THICK. IF THE LINING IS THINNER THAN THIS, THE PAD SHOULD BE REPLACED. WHEN THE LINING WEARS TOO THIN, THE RIVETS MAY CUT INTO THE ROTOR AND CAUSE SERIOUS AND EXPENSIVE DAMAGE. WITH WORN LINING, THE BRAKES ALSO BECOME UNABLE TO STOP THE CAR SAFELY.

WHEN YOU ARE THROUGH INSPECTING IT, PUT THE PAD BACK INITS PLACE ON THE TABLETOP AND INSPECT THE OTHER PAD.

STOP THE TAPE AND INSPECT THE BRAKE PADS

INSPECTING THE ROTOR

CHECK THE ROTOR SURFACE THAT THE PADS RIDE AGAINST. IT SHOULD BE CLEAN AND SMOOTH.

A ROUGH OR SCARRED ROTOR WILL MAKE THE BRAKES PULL TO ONE SIDE WHEN STOPPING. IT WILL ALSO CAUSE WEAR ON THE PADS.

AS YOU INSPECT THE ROTOR, NOTICE THE RIBS AND HOLES BETWEEN THE INNER AND OUTER BRAKING SURFACES. THESE HELP TO COOL THE BRAKES.

THE DUST BOOT KEEPS DIRT AND AIR FROM GETTING INTO THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BETWEEN THE PISTON AND CALIPER. IT ALSO KEEPS THE HYDRAULIC FLUID FROM LEAKING OUT OF THE SYSTEM.

CHECK THE DUST BOOT FOR EVIDENCE OF BRAKE FLUID LEAKING. ALSO CHECK THE BOOT FOR CUTS, CRACKS, OR OTHER DAMAGE.

STOP THE TAPE AND CHECK THE DUST BOOT.

GET A RAG FROM THE RAG BOX AND WIPE THE INSIDE OF THE CALIPER CLEAN.

WHEN YOU ARE FINISHED WITH THE RAG, PUT IT IN ITS CONTAINER.

STOP THE TAPE AND CLEAN THE INSIDE OF THE CALIPER AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

GET THE “NEW” OUTBOARD BRAKE PAD FROM THE TOOL PANEL. THE OUTBOARD PAD IS THE ONE WITH HOLES IN THE EARS.

PUT THE OUTBOARD PAD IN THE CALIPER AS SHOWN.

GET THE BALL PEEN HAMMER AND USE IT TO GENTLY TAP THE PAD INTO POSITION IN THE CALIPER.

AFTER YOU HAVE FINISHED, PUT THE BALL PEEN HAMMER BACK IN ITS PLACE ON THE TOOL PANEL.

STOP THE TAPE AND INSTALL THE OUTBOARD BRAKE PAD.

GET THE “NEW” INBOARD BRAKE PAD FROM THE TOOL PANEL.

CAREFULLY REMOVE THE SUPPORT SPRING FROM THE “OLD” INBOARD BRAKE PAD AND PLACE IT ON THE “NEW” INBOARD BRAKE PAD.

STOP THE TAPE AND CHANGE THE SUPPORT SPRING.

PUT THE INBOARD PAD IN THE CALIPER AS SHOWN. THE SUPPORT SPRING GOES INTO THE CENTER OF THE PISTON.

STOP THE TAPE, INSTALL THE INBOARD BRAKE PAD AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #6)

LISTEN TO ALL INSTRUCTION BEFORE REPLACING THE CALIPER.

CAREFULLY LIFT THE CALIPER AND PLACE IT IN POSITION ON THE ROTOR AS SHOWN. BE SURE THE BRAKE PADS ARE STRAIGHT WITH THE ROTOR AND THE HOLES IN THE CALIPER LINE UP WITH THE HOLES IN THE ROTOR ASSEMBLY. ALSO, BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE BRAKE LINE BY TWISTING, BENDING OR KINGING IT.

GET THE MOUNTING BOLTS AND PUT THEM THROUGH THEIR HOLS IN THE CALIPER AND ROTOR ASSEMBLY.

GET THE ALLEN WRENCH AND USE IT TO TIGHTEN THE MOUNTING BOLTS. TURN THEM COUNTER CLOCKWISE.

PUT THE ALLEN WRENCH BACK IN ITS PLACEON THE TOOL PANEL WHEN YOU’VE FINISHED.

STOP THE TAPE, REPLACE THE CALIPER AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #7)

GET A RAG FROM THE RAG BOX AND LAY IT OUT ON THE TABLETOP.

UNSCREW THE CAP OFF THE MASTER CYLINDER BY TURNING IT COUNTER CLOCKWISE.

PLACE IT UPSIDE DOWN ON THE RAG YOU LAID OUT.

LOOK INSIDE THE MASTER CYLINDER FLUID RESERVOIR. THE FLUID LEVEL SHOULD BE ¼” FROM THE RIM OF THE MASTER CYLINDER.

REPLACE THE CAP ON THE MASTER CYLINDER.

STOP THE TAPE AND CHECK THE BRAKE FLUID.

TAKE THE LUG NUTS OUT OF THE WHEEL AND PUT THEM ON THE TABLETOP.

LIFT THE WHEEL ONTO THE AXLE. PUT IT OVER THE LUG BOLTS AS SHOWN.

PUT THE LUG NUTS ON AND TIGHTEN THEM CLOCKWISE AS MUCH AS YOU CAN WITH YOUR FINGERS. NOTE: THE ROUNDED SIDE OF THE LUG NUT FACES THE WHEEL.

GET THE LUG WRENCH AND USE IT TO FINISH TIGHTENING THE LUG NUTS. TIGHTEN ONE, AND THEN TIGHTEN THE OPPOSITE ONE, AND SO ON UNTIL YOU HAVE TIGHTENED THEM ALL.

WHEN YOU HAVE FINISHED RETURN THE LUG WRENCH BACK IN ITS PLACE ON THE TOOL PANEL.

STOP THE TAPE, REPLACE THE WHEEL RIM AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #8)

REMOVE THE SAFETY PIN FROM THE BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY.

AS YOU TURN THE WHEEL, PRESS THE PEDAL TO OPERATE THE BRAKE.

RELEASE THE BRAKE PEDAL AND TURN THE WHEEL. NOTE THAT THERE IS NOW A DRAG ON THE WHEEL. THIS IS BECAUSE THE PADS ARE NOW “SEATED” INTO PLACE AGAINST THE ROTOR. THIS DRAG IS NECESSARY TO KEEP THE ROTOR CLEAN.

PUT THE SAFETY PIN BACK INTO THE BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY.

STOP THE TAPE AND TEST YOUR BRAKE JOB.

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!

YOU HAVE COMPLETED YOUR WORK EXPERIENCE AS A BRAKE REPAIRER.

TAKE THE INTEREST CHECKSHEET AND ANSWER QUESTION #2. NOW THAT YOU HAVE COMPLETED THE AUTO SERVICE MECHANIC WORK SAMPLE, WOULD YOU WANT TO DO THAT TYPE OF WORK FOR A LIVING?

(CHECK: NO, I WOULDN’T; MAYBE; OR YES, I WOULD.)

STOP THE TAPE, ANSWER THE QUESTION, AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #9)

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