International Commission

ICREFH

NEWSLETTER

for Research into

European Food History

Number 25, November 2010

Contact:Professor Alain Drouard(President of ICREFH)

Directeur de Recherche au CNRS

16 rue Parrot

75012 Paris

France

Email:

Website:

The International Commission for Research into European Food History was founded at Münster in 1989. ICREFH is a group of scholars working on the history of food and nutrition in Europe since the late eighteenth century. Every two years ICREFH holds a symposium on a single theme and publishes the proceedings. The official language is English, with French and German as working languages.

Committee:

Dr Martin Franc, Masaryk Institute Archives of Academy of Sciences of Czech Republic, Gabcikova 10/2362, 182 Praha 8, Czech Republic

Professor Derek Oddy, University of Westminster

Dr Ulrike Thoms, Institut für Geschichte der Medizin, Klingsorstr.119,12203 Berlin, Germany

Immediate Past President and Editor of the Newsletter: Professor Peter Atkins, Department of Geography, DurhamUniversity, DurhamDH1 3LE, United Kingdom,

Vice Presidents:

Professor Em. Dr Hans-Jürgen Teuteberg (Münster) (President, 1989-1994)

Dr Adel den Hartog (Wageningen) (President, 1995-1999)

Professor Dr Peter Scholliers (President, 1999-2003)

President’s Paragraph

Alberto de Bernardi,Professor at the University of Bologna, is the local organizer of ICREFH XII in September 2011. The venue will be the Villa Pallavicini just a few miles outside Bologna.It is a magnificent place. There will be anintroductory general sessionentitled "ItalianPerspectives on the History of Food Industry", the final discussion of which will be attended by the President and one or two other ICREFH members. For details of the ICREFH sessions that will follow, see below.With best regards, Prof Alain Drouard

Editors’ report on the progress of proceedings of the 11th ICREFH Symposium held in Paris in 2009

Considerable progress has been made in the last couple ofmonths and the first drafts of all the chapters are in. The editing process ison schedule and the manuscript will be submitted to the publishers, Ashgate, in early January 2011. The title is 'Food and War in Twentieth Century Europe' and the editors areProf InaZweiniger-Bargielowska, Dr Rachel Duffett and Prof Alain Drouard.The contents are as follows:

Introduction, Ina Zweiniger-Bargielowska.

PART A SOLDIERS AND THEIR FOOD

Food Provisioning in the German Army of the First World War, Peter Lummel; British Army Provisioning in the First World War, Rachel Duffett; Fighting a Kosher War? Food Patterns of Jewish Frontline Soldiers in Germany during World War I, Steven Schouten

PART B HOME FRONT: THE CITIZENS ADAPT

Food Provisioning of the German Home Front, 1914-1918, Hans J Teuteberg; Flour from Oak-Bark: Natural Substitutes in Austro-Hungary during the First World War, Martin Franc; The First World War and Its Influence on Slovenia’s Diet, Maja Godina Golija; The Spanish Civil War: Eating Strategies and Social Change, Alicia Riera Guidonet; Alimentary and Pellagra Psychoses in Besieged Leningrad, Pavel Vasilyev

PART C HOME FRONT: THE STATE INTERVENES

Fair Shares? The Limits of Food Policy in Britain during the Second World War, Ina Zweiniger-Bargielowska; Communal Feeding in Wartime: ‘British Restaurants’, 1940-1947,Peter Atkins; Starvation in French Asylums during the German Occupation, Isabelle von Bueltzingsloewen; Réalités Cruelles: State Controls and the Black Market for Food in Occupied France, Kenneth Mouré; Nutrition Education in Times of Food Shortages and Hunger: War and Occupation in the Netherlands, 1939-1945, Adel P. den Hartog

PART D WAR, MODERNIZATION AND INNOVATION

Mikkel Hindhede and the Science and Rhetoric of Food Rationing in Denmark 1917-1918, Svend Skafte Overgaard; The Modernization of the Icelandic Diet and the Impact of War, 1914-1945, Guðmundur Jónsson and Örn D. Jónsson; Horse Meat in France: A Food Item that Appeared during the War of 1870 and Disappeared after the Second World War, Alain Drouard; The Innovative Power of War: The Army, Food Sciences and the Food Industry in Germany in the Twentieth Century, Ulrike Thoms

Conclusion, Rachel Duffett

Programme for the Symposium in Bologna, Italy, 13-16 September, 2011: The History of the European Food Industry in the nineteenth and the first half of the twentieth century.

1. From basic foodstuffs to modern food commodities: Technologies, processes and products:

Session 1.1: New foods in northern Europe

Peter Atkins Durham University, UK, Salt, sugar and vinegar: The early history of factory made jams and pickles in Britain;

Hans Jürgen Teuteberg University of Muenster, Germany, The beet sugar production as forerunner of the modern German food industry,1780-1914;

Steven Schouten, Scientific Council of Government Policy, The Hague, Netherlands, Jewish Food Industry in Germany, 1850-1945;

G. Jonsson and O.Jonsson, Iceland, The convenience of fish sticks: a comparative study of industrial fish processing in Iceland and Norway;

Sabine Merta, Germany, Margarine in competition with butter, Germany 1872 to 1933.

Session 1.2: Technical change in Mediterranean Europe

Frédéric Duhart, EHESS Paris, France, The First Phases of the History of the Foie Gras Industry in South West France (1780-1955);

Ernesto Lopez, University of the Basque Country,Transforming Fish into a Commodity. The Basque Fisheries and Fish Processing Industries, 1860-1936;

David Gentilcore, University of Leicester, UK, “Tomato fever”: the industrialization of tomato processing in Italy;

Ramon Ramon-Munoz, University of Barcelona, Spain, Technical Change in the Mediterranean Olive Oil Industry: A comparison between Spain and Italy , 1850s-1930s;

Maja Godina-Golija, Institute of Slovenian Ethnology, Ljubljana, From dried fruit and vegetables to canned food: the case of Slovenia (1850-1950).

Session 2: The industrial organization of the food industry

Peter Lummel, Domain Dahlem, Berlin, Germany, Who is doing the work? Food processing in the nutrition chain?;

Jose Martinez-Carrion and F. Medina Albaladejo, University of Murcia, Spain,

The development of the Spanish canning industry: production and international trade, 1850-1950;

Alain Drouard National Centre for Scientific Research, Centre Roland Mousnier, Paris, France, Capitalism and Chocolate in France: the Menier holding;

Francesco Chiapparino, Universita politechnica delle Marche, Italy, Co-operatives, Personal Entrepreneurship and Corporate Capitalism at the emergence of Modern industrial Firm in the Italian Food Production (1861-1960).

Michel-Pierre Chélini, University of Artois, France, The French food industry: its working population and wages,1930-1960;

3 Relations between producers, processors and consumers

Session 3.1: Presenting new products to the consumers

T. Vestergaard Jensen, University of Copenhagen, Denmark, The Ideal Pig: the Quality of Danish pork as food product 1887-1950;

Martin Franc, Academy of Sciences,

Prague, Czech Republic, Czech chocolate is the best! National aspects in the food industry in the Czech lands at the turn of 19th and 20th century,

Karl Peter Ellerbrock, Westfälisches Wirtschaftsarchiv, Dortmund, Germany, Each grain is bread! The history of Dr. Klopfer’s Nährmittelfabrik between traditional markets and the rise of new values and health ( 1913-1945);

Lucian Scrob, Central European University,Romania, Give us this day our daily bread’: the role of bakeries in generalizing bread consumption among Romanian peasants: 1890-1990;

Jean–Claude Fichou, Brest, France, Les sardines à l’huile , comment imposer le premier produit alimentaire industriel;

Session 3.2: Persuasion and new products

Derek J. Oddy, University of Westminster, UK, From roast beef to chicken nuggets and turkey twizzlers: food technology and meat consumption in Britain in the twentieth century;

Adel den Hartog, Wageningen University,Netherlands, The rise of food labelling and packaging : the Dutch food industry between persuading and informing consumers,1870-1950s;

Jenny Lee and Ulrika Torell, Nordik Museum, Uppsala, Sweden, The Silent Revolution. How packaging transformed the consumption landscapes and self- service triumphed in Sweden;

Anneke Geysen, Vrije University, Brussels, Belgium, From sterilizing to deep –freezing and back again: the evolution of discourses in women’s magazines (Flanders 1945-2000);

Alberto Grandi, University of Parma, Italy,The House of the rising tomato.

Presentations at the Symposium

Presentations at the Symposium will be organized on a workshop basis. Papers will becirculated in advance and will not be read in full at the Symposium.Presentation of highlights will be limited to 10-15 minutes to enableadequate time for discussion.

Symposium Arrangements

Please note that further information regarding the arrangements for the Symposium will not be available until January 2011. Our hosts in Bologna have much organizing to do before then. Full details and booking forms will be available in the Spring 2011 Newsletter.

The Biennial General Meeting of ICREFH at Bologna, September 2011

There will be a Biennial General Meeting (BGM) in Bologna. The draft Agenda will be as follows:

Agenda

1. President’s welcome and report;

2. Minutes of the previous meeting in Paris in September 2009;

The Minutes have been previously circulated in the Newsletter)

3. Report by the Editors on progress of the book of the Paris Symposium towards publication;

4. Elections:

President;

Vice-President;

Committee Members (maximum three unless the Constitution is changed);

5. Plans for a Symposium in 2013;

6. Any other business.

Other items for the Agenda may be proposed by members of ICREFH. Proposals should be sent to the President as soon as possible.

New Books on Food History

Reaktion Books of London ( have commenced a new series entitled 'Edible'. These are small format texts (197 x 120 mm) costing £10, each attempting the global history of a commodity or food product. The titles are as follows:

Cake, Nicola Humble

Caviar, Nichola Fletcher

Cheese, Andrew Dalby

Chocolate, Sarah Moss and Alexander Badenoch

Curry, Colleen Taylor Sen

Hamburger, Andrew F. Smith

Hot Dog, Bruce Kraig

Milk, Hannah Velten

Pancake, Ken Albala

Pie, Janet Clarkson

Pizza, Carol Helstosky

Sandwich, Bee Wilson

Soup, Janet Clarkson

Spices, Fred Czarra

Tea, Helen Saberi

Whiskey, Kevin R. Kosar