Installation Review
Acclimation
Adaptability
Design criteria
Exfoliating bark
Functional goal
Growth rate
Habit
Hardiness
Introduced species
Invasive species
Microclimate
Native species
Naturalized species
Pest resistance
Right tree right location
Site analysis
Site consideration
Susceptibility
Genetic ability to adjust to different environmental conditions - Adaptability
A plant adjusts to shade by developing larger leaves - Acclimation
Identify site conditions that may affect plant selection
· Overhead utilities
· Available soil/rooting space
· Soil moisture
· Clearance – traffic, pedestrians, buildings, etc.
· Sun/Shade
Examples of functional goals
· Screen
· Shade
· Wind break
· Erosion control
Examples of plant characteristics to consider during plant selection
· Mature size
· Growth rate
· Water needs
· Soil volume needs
· Sun exposure
· Hardiness zone
· Habit – upright, spreading, columnar
Design Criteria
· Flowering
· Fall color
· Size
· Texture
· Fruit
American Standard for Nursery Stock (ANSI Z60.1)
Plant Material Quality
· Strong central leader
· No damage/wounds (including poor pruning)
· No disease or insects
· Root flare within 2” of top of soil
· No significant circling or girdling roots
· Root ball or container size correct for size of the tree
Define root flare and describe its proper location and be able to locate/identify on a tree
3 types of plant stock and pros and cons of each
How to tell the difference between natural and synthetic burlap
· Natural burns and turns to ash
· Synthetic burlap melts
Which one is more critical to remove from the root ball at planting and why?
· Synthetic because it does not decompose and can girdle roots once they grow through it.
Planting Specs
· Planting depth – root flare shall be at or slightly above surrounding grade
· Hole width = 2-3 x’s width of rootball
· Do not lift trees by the trunk
· Remove as much foreign material as possible
o Container
o Plastic
o Straps
o At least the top ½ of wire basket and burlap
· Backfill with native soil (Amend 10’ radius to 8” deep if necessary)
· Pack soil to stabilize but do not “compact”
· Water thoroughly to wash soil into voids around roots
· Do not fertilize (Why?)
o Fertilizer contains high amounts of salt which can draw moisture away from the roots and can also burn the roots
o There is not enough root mass to take advantage of the fertilizer
· Do not prune except and why?
o Clean
o Structure
o Because the tree needs all the leaves it has to produce energy to become established
o Branches contain growth hormones that encourage root grownth
During the establishment period, how much water should a tree receive at each watering interval?a. About 10-20 gallons
b. 1 gallon per inch DBH
c. 3 gallons per inch DBH
d. 10 gallons per in DBH
True or False – The amount of water you apply is more important than the frequency of irrigation.
If planted and watered correctly in Charleston, how many months should it take a 3” tree to become established? 3” x 4 to 6 = 12-18 months
Know this chart
Unnecessary staking or tying too tightly causes
· Reduce trunk taper
· Reduce trunk strength
· Reduced root strength
· Develop smaller root system
Mulching too deeply
· Intercepts water
· Encourages roots to grow upwards leading to circling or girdling roots
· Hold moisture against trunk leading to decay