The Drip Pan

/ Table of Contents /

Introduction

  • How to Run the Model T Ford – Excerpts from Ford Instruction Manual

Including General Introduction, Vigilance and Oil, Go It Easy, Control (Driving), Choke

Accessories

  • Exhaust Deflector, Sun Shades, Sight Glass, Oil Can Mounting Bracket
  • Hassler Shock Absorbers
  • Stabilizers for Reducing Motor Vibrations

Axle & Rear End

  • Alignment of Front Axle
  • Clean Off Grease on Frame and Brakes
  • Dangerous Thrust Washers (NEW)
  • Greasing the Universal Joint
  • Helicoil (My First Experience with – The Hard Way)
  • Housing Cap Removal
  • Modern Seal for Model T Rear Axle
  • Rear End – Axle or Grease? (NEW)
  • Removing Front Axle King Pin Bushings
  • Repairing the Ford Rear Axle
  • Ruckstell (ADDITIONAL INFO)
  • Stop Rear Axle Grease Leaks with a Modern Sealed Bearing
  • Tapered Roller Bearing for the Ruckstell
  • The Model T Ford and the Microwave Oven (Greasing the T Rear End)
  • Tighten T Rear Main Bearing

Carburetor

  • Adjustment of Vaporizer
  • Carburetor Priming Wire
  • Cleaning the Vaporizer Heating Plate
  • Float – Balsa Vs. Cork
  • Float Measurements
  • Keep that Carburetor Working
  • Leaking Carburetor Inlet Valve
  • Leaky Gas Line Connections
  • Prevent Engine Running Too Fast or Choking with Throttle Retarded
  • Repairing a Cork Float in an Early T Carburetor

Care & Cleaning

  • Care of the Top
  • Caring for Brass and Pete’s Brass Secret
  • Clean Off Grease on Frame and Brakes
  • Clean Off Road Oil (1916 Style)
  • Cleaning Aluminum Parts (1916 Style)
  • Cleaning Cloth Upholstery (1916 Style)
  • Cleaning Lamp Reflectors (1916 Style)
  • Cleaning Nickel Plated Parts (1916 Style)
  • Cleaning Off Rust
  • Cleaning the Vaporizer Heating Plate
  • Cleaning Windows and Keeping the Windshield Dry (1916 Style)
  • Grease Saves Fender Finish
  • Leather Polish (1916 Style)
  • Make Your Own Body Polish (1916 Style)
  • Proper Way to Wash the Car
  • Protecting Unplated/Unpainted Parts
  • Save Those Candles (for rusty nuts and bolts)
  • Scotch-Brite for Parts Cleaning
  • Storing the Car
  • Towing

Cooling System

  • Fan Lubrication
  • Front Water Pump Bushings
  • Radiator Cap Gaskets
  • Radiator Overflow
  • Thaws Frozen Radiator

Electrical System

  • 6V Battery
  • Add Life to Commutator Loom and Wires
  • Battery Disconnect
  • Battery Maintenance
  • Bendix Cover Bolts (NEW)
  • Better Magneto Efficiency
  • Christmas “T” Lights
  • Dead Timer Roller
  • Electric and Oil Tail Lamps
  • Generator Problem
  • How to Turn Off Your Generator
  • Generator Output – Too Many Amps (NEW)
  • Model T Ignition Switch Wiring
  • Paraffin as a Preservative (Electric Wire Insulator)
  • Replacing Side Lenses – Pepsi Cola Hits the Spot!
  • Replacing the (ignition coil) Capacitor
  • Running Engine with Generator Disconnected form the Battery
  • Setting Ford Generator Brushes
  • Special Distributor Mounting Bolt
  • Starter Switch Relay
  • Typical Wiring Diagram with Generator
  • Use Your Model T Magneto to Substitute for a Generator
  • When Coil Units Fail (And You Still Need to Get Home),

Engine & Transmission

  • Air Cleaner Assembly and Engine Sealing
  • Air Cleaner for the Model T
  • Adjusting Transmission Bands
  • Building an Early Type Drive Shaft
  • Changing Connecting Rods
  • Check that Oil with a Dipstick
  • Cleaning the Vaporizer Heating Plate
  • Crank Shaft Main Bearing Bolts – Indexing the Cotter Pin Hole
  • Crankshaft Counterweights
  • Dead Timer Roller
  • Does you ‘T’ Creep?
  • Emergency Band Lining
  • Exhaust Pipe Packing Nut
  • Fix That Sediment Bulb Fuel Leak, Stopping Those Pesky Fuel Leaks
  • Front Crankshaft Seals
  • Fuel Bulb (’26) (NEW)
  • Gear Clearance
  • Hogs Head Installation … You Don’t Need 3 Hands
  • How I Made a Head Gasket for a Riley Multi-Ford Head
  • Installing a 26-27 Brake Drum in an Earlier Type Engine
  • Installing Hand Crank Bushing (after it is assembled in the engine)
  • Irregular Firing (Sparkplugs)
  • Main Bearings, Cam Bearings
  • Many Fold Problems of the Manifold
  • Model T Oil Pump, Rear Cam Installation Using VW Pump
  • Motor & Drive Shaft, U-Joint
  • Mounting Transmission Bands
  • Need New Valves and Don’t Want to Pay a Fortune, Chevy Valves
  • Oil Leak – Pedal Shaft
  • Oil Pan Leaks
  • One Method of Preventing a Noisy Differential
  • Poor Idle and Low Speed Operation
  • Premature Retirement
  • Recycle a ‘T’ Valve
  • Removing Front Bearing Cap
  • Repair Crank Case Ball Socket
  • Roller Style Timer Maintenance
  • Roller Timer Problems
  • Stabilizers for Reducing Motor Vibrations
  • Subtle Engine Discrepancies
  • Summary of Engine Troubles and Their Causes
    Including: Engine Fails to Start, Engine Lacks Power – Runs Irregularly, Engine Stops Suddenly, Engine Overheats, Engine Knocks
  • Third Hand for Manifold Installation
  • Timer Settings
  • Timing Model T Valves
  • Transmission Triple Gears
  • View of Transmission

Frame, Body, Interior

  • Back Window
  • Care of the Springs
  • Care of the Top
  • Find Those Dings Before You Paint!
  • Lowering the “T” Chassis for Speedster use
  • Replacing the Tack Strip Around the Seat
  • Side Curtain Holder
  • Door Hinge Oil (1916 Style)
  • Hinge Halves – Doors
  • Hinge Pins – Door
  • Hinge Rods – Hood
  • Secure Floor Boards
  • Storage Space for Tools

Lubrication

  • Lubrication Guide
  • Lubrication Chart
  • Care of the Springs
  • Draining the Crank Case
  • Lubricating the Differential
  • The Model T Ford and the Microwave Oven (Greasing the T Rear End)
  • Oiling the Commutator
  • Oiling the Generator, Starter Motor, and Fan

Miscellaneous

  • Belt Replacement Pin
  • Bushing Tool
  • Chemotherapy for Rot (wood) and Epoxy Know How (NEW)
  • Cylinder Compression Tester
  • Do-Funnies Help when Replacing Crank Case Cover
  • Eliminate those Rattles: Brake Rods, Splash Aprons, Front End Brake Rod Clevis, Rear End Gear Noise. Door Hinges, Hood
  • Frame Riveting Made Easy!
  • Get the Most from Your Grinding Wheel
  • Front Axle Adjusting Tool
  • Hardened Steel Nuts
  • Headless Rivet Removal
  • Homemade Sand Blaster
  • Chart Showing Lever Positions for Various Conditions of Operation
  • Holder for Cylinder Head Bolts
  • Hook Lifts Engine
  • Make Your Own Coil Tester
  • Pin Holder (Valve Pins, Cotter Pins, Etc.)
  • Repairing Broken or Chipped Hard Rubber Steering Wheel Rim or Ruckstell Shift Knob
  • Replacement Pin for Belts
  • Sloshing Compound in the Fuel Tank
  • Spindle Arm Bushing Puller
  • Storage for Tools
  • Worn Out Brake Handle Pawl (Repair)
  • Vintage Shop Equipment – Engine Testers

Safety

  • Aligning Cotter Pins, Cotter Pins (Size/Qty)
  • Battery Disconnect
  • Cranking Safety
  • Cure for Shimmy
  • Fix That Sediment Bulb Fuel Leak
  • Fuel Shut Off
  • Loose Steering Gear
  • Running Engine with Generator Disconnected From Battery
  • Safety Checklist
  • Steering System Safety
  • Stopping Those Pesky Fuel Leaks

Wheels & Tires

  • Adjusting Front Wheels
  • Balancing the Front Wheels on a Model T
  • Carrier for Balloon Tires
  • Clinching is a Cinch
  • Easily Install New Clincher Rim Tires
  • Felt Seal for Front Wheels
  • Full Floating Rear Hubs
  • Greasing Front Wheel Bearings
  • How to Care for Tires
  • Installing a Clincher 30 x 3 ½ Tire Without Tire Irons
  • Pete’s Spoke Tightener
  • Power Take Off
  • Preventing Grease from Working into the Brake Drums of the Ford Rear Axle
  • Proper Tire Inflation
  • Protecting (Spare) Tire from Gases
  • Removing Bearing Races
  • Removing the Rear Wheels
  • Sectional View of Hub Showing Roller Bearings
  • Simple Method of Stretching New Clincher Rim Tires
  • Tubes, Rim Flaps, and Wheels
  • Wood Wheel Installation Tips

December 20, 2006

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